I just went on my first nice long ride in the twisties of Colorado with another Forum Member (this was his first bike and first long ride). Had a great time, bike was great overall but the ratio sucks. I spend a lot of time around 40-50mph and I was hunting for the right gear none stop. Also accelerating out of the turns I needed to shift while still in the middle of the turn. I am not trying to make it a race bike just a good commuter and fun light touring bike. Now my bike bogs down in gear under 3500rpm. Loves to be at 4-5000rpm for cruising or highway speeds. I bring it up to about 6500rpm when really going for it. Needs belts and timing so afraid to go any higher. Is this normal? Should I change the sprockets out and if so what tooth combo? This is my first Ducati so maybe I am just a idiot and need to rev it more. All my bike have been Honda V-twins (NT650, VTR1000) never had this problem. I am wanting to keep this bike for every day and will get a S2R or 769 for weekends later this year.
Thank you for your help.
If it's running the stock gearing, you'll benefit from a final drive change. Common combos are -1 from the front (14 tooth) or +3 to the rear. Lots of folks drop to 14 in front as it's cheaper when you don't need to replace the chain/sprocket set. If you're changing out those components increasing the rear size is better.
At 6500 you've probably got about 1700 or so RPMs to go before you hit the limiter. So wind it up a little more also. Though Ducs are twins, they are higher strung and like some right hand twist. Lugging, especially for a stock geared 620 below the mid 3k mark is the norm. Changing the final drive ration will help you get a bit more from the bottom end of the range.
I'd replace the belts now - don't think that babying the bike is a talisman against a over old belt that fails.
Thank as always Panda. I am going to do the belts and Valves ASAP. Now the gearing you suggest is going to make the bike accelerate fast and lose some top speed right? Wont that make it even worse. I thought the 14t or 42t was for the 6peeds to help with get up and smooth it out. I was thinking -1,2 tooth in the back was going to help but I have no idea. It feels like I shift to 2nd at 15mph and 3rd at 30mph and 4th at 45mph. There is my problem 3rd is to high of rpm and 4th it chugs. Also 5th is at 6000+ at 75mph which is slow for Colorado highway driving. I would like to add 5mph to those shifts. Well I would like to have a 6speed LOL.
Yes the number I suggested will take some off the top of each gear, but give you more bottom. So you'll few a few * theoretical* MPH, but practically you won't. Looking at top speed numbers on a spreadsheet based on engine RPM, ratios and wheel speeds doesn't reflect wind...
And the change up to -1/+3 is pretty universal for monsters. Got +3 on my 900 - people even do it on S4Rs...
If you want to crunch some numbers
http://www.gearingcommander.com/ (http://www.gearingcommander.com/)
Select a 2002 Monster 620 - and it's set up fro the 5 speed tranny.
my 620 was a 6 speed, so YMMV, but I liked mine a lot more with the 14 tooth front. Sure I lost a little off the top - but in functional reality I lost nothing as that top is will beyond any US speed limits - unless Montana or where ever is still unlimited during daylight in some areas... But I digress
The shorter gearing gave the lil 620 more grunt and power and the low range of the RPMs letting it gut out speeds in a gear that would have required a down-shift previously making perform more peppily when flogging in the twists.
You may have to resign yourself to the fact a 5-speed 620 is is not a highway blaster and figureout what you want more? Super slab cruiser or something fun in the twists. making the gearing taller will let you cruise on the highway with *theoretically* lower RPMs (remember that wind resistance increases exponentially, not linearly on most sufraces) but you might find that it doesn't in the end. Also, you'll be having to keep the RMPs even higher generally.
Thanks for the calculator. That helps guess I will just have to try it out.
Good news is that a front sprocket will be between 25 and 30 dollars. And if you've got a moderate tool kit you can do it yourself. Easy to do or undo
.
A smaller rear sprocket will be a bit more - like $40-80 depending on materials/ farkles. And a bit more fussy as you need the wheel off. But still not a hard job if you;ve got a rear stand in addition to the tools needed for the front sprocket.