I went to ride the other day after not riding for a week or so and on start up my bike started smoking so i looked at the oil and i could tell moisture had gotten leaving the air filter completely exposed. I think this may be the problem. Also i don't store it in a garage currently i store under a wrapped tarp.
1.Should i buy the cover for the airbox?
2.Or is there a trick to storing a bike that prevents moisture getting to it?
A little moisture in the oil isn't a big deal. It's pretty unlikely the open airbox or tarp is causing it, usually it's short trips in humid, damp or cool conditions. A good ride will clear it out.
+1. Ride it hard on a hot day and when you take a break to refuel or have a drink, pop off the oil cap for 10-20 mins. All of the condensation will evaporate.
When I had a 150 kilometre round trip to work I never saw the milky appearance in the sight glass or filler cap!! [thumbsup]
But since I moved closer to work (Now a 50 kilometre round trip) condensation has become a problem! Mostly in my old 98 750 that just doesnt warm up, even with a shroud on the oil cooler!! [roll]
The 1000DS isnt as prone to the condensate problem!! It does warm up a lot quicker!
Water in the oil does make a difference to its lube qualities, and at around 4,000k after changing oil I noticed that the engine was a bit "rattlier"! :o
Now I change the oil at 5,000k instead of 10,000k and the motor is quieter. ;D
BTW My bikes are garaged inside in a dry clean environment, and I still get the moisture in oil thing. Cover is still a good idea though! [roll]
I had the same issue with winter riding.
Since I removed the airbox breather hose and fitted a K&N mini filter to the oil separator/breather box I have no condensation issues even after short winter rides.
It made a significant difference ime.
Same issue with the milky site glass, garaged all the time too. I'd just leave the oil cap off once I got home from riding and after a few times of doing that it cleared up. I think it might have something to do with engine re-breather/recirculating air pressure thing. My totally non scientific idea is that the recirculating air bladder thing gets cooler before the engine does and the air that is inside it also gets cooler enough so that water droplets form inside the bladder and voila water in the oil. I think that is why the bladder also has a shaped interior that is kind of twisted and what not, to keep oil down and possibly trap water build up inside. What I imagine the inside of the bladder looking like is one of those flat wooden toys with the steel ball inside that you have to roll around the maze to get to the end but a little less complicated and is mounted on the back of something which is made from pure awesomeness. I'm not Bill Nye The Science Guy but its a shot in the dark. [coffee]
What happens is some combustion gasses passes the rings into the crankcase. One of these products is good ol' H2O in the form of vapor. The water vapor condenses on cold surfaces like the sight glass and combines with oil mist on those parts creating a milky mess. When you have a more open system like koko or you remove the filler cap vapor can escape before it condenses. The amount of water contamination is minimal and the oil is more than capable of dealing with it.
assuming you have an air cooled motor all the above applies
If you have an S4 (water cooled) then milky oil is typically the result of coolant in the oil...looks like chocolate milk. Head/base gaskets or cracked cyl/head would be the issue there...