Ducati Monster Forum

Got a box in the mail yesterday...
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/531703_656932315776_137074253_n.jpg)

Nice to see they were carefully packed...
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/555132_656937345696_315833043_n.jpg)

Superbike forks!  1098S/1198S/1198R 1198SP Ohlins! (I dont know exactly what they came off of, but the dealer lists the part number fitting all'o'dem.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/578932_656937510366_836875257_n.jpg)

Only visible defects are some slight marring to the blue finish up top, and a tiny ding on the fork top cap on one side.  Oh, and a Virginia state inspection sticker that ive invested 2 hours so far into, and am about 50% done removing...(any tricks?)


Now heres the bad news.  They measure up at about an inch taller than my stock forks ('11 M796) and the tubes come in at 53mm top, and 56mm bottom.  I believe most of the sbk conversions are 53mm/53mm.  Which counts out buying an off the shelf conversion triple.

I hit my bike real quick with the calipers and they look like 54 at the bottom with the stock triple...and I can see a shim in there, so Im going to get another factory 796 bottom half and have it punched out (im not too worried about loosing 1-2mm)  And will probably have my speedy moto top punched out to 53mm (unless someone wants to help me offset the cost of a new one!  ;))

I wont know what kind of shinanagins im in for as far as brake spacing and axle woes until i get it all torn apart, but I know at least I have 5 bolts rotors...so Ive got some options...(maybe even 10mm caliper spacers and SBK rotors?  hmm...who knows!)

i've not heard of anyone boring out a bottom triple...
i'm just a hack job weekend wrench, but i would consult with wiser minds before you move forward with that plan...
a top triple is one thing, but a bottom triple i think is a different ballgame when it comes to structural integrity...

You'll also need to check the front fender mounts. sorry, just thought about it.

I was thinking about that, bolt spacing is the same top to botom, Its side to side that Id be worried about.  And that I wont know until I really dig into the project.  I've got a big crack in my fender anyway, so maybe I'll just throw a SBK fender on it too.  Maybe CF...

Raux...thoughts on punching out the botom triple?  Like I said, with that shim in there, it only looks like I would have to take about 1mm of material out.

well, you know me. I'm all about getting the correct part and not messing with another.
ie, I don't use spacers on rotors, didn't just get a 50 bored to 53 top, didn't shim a 54 to 53 lower.

Take a look at IMA, Style & Performance and a few others to see if you can get a complete upper/lower/steering stem in ergal for a good price, put on needle bearings and get a complete front end. that way you can always just go back to stock.

IMA have the best prices I've heard and the dollar buying power is good right now.

This might be the way to go...

(http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/ProdImages/OD090002_lg.jpg)
Ducati 1198-1098-848 Carbon Fiber Monster Style Front Fender By CDT

http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=758 (http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=758)

I would go with sbk style as it protects the lowers better

I had similar thoughts.  Although I did just have another brainwave, I need a way of holding on to/routing the ABS wire.  BLAST!

FWIW, when I removed the inspection sticker off my last set of black R1 forks....I used one of those paint roller scrapers (putty blade would work too) and after hitting the sticker with the hair dryer (no heat gun) for a few minutes, I just scraped it off....didn't hurt the finish at all.  I would suggest against an actual sharp blade such as a razor or using one of the mentioned methods if the tip is damaged in any way.  After I just used paint thinner on a rag and the leftover residue came right off.  Make sure to wash the paint thinner off after as well.

That is just how I did it the last time and wondered why I didn't do it the time before....which took me hours.  YRMV

No bad news at all.  Uh... off the shelf triples for this are no problem.   contact IMA Special Parts.   These (53/56 triples for Monsters) are part of standard production on the MOD2evo line-up (and the predecessor MOD2).     You can do a clipons-only type top triple or a standard bar-riser type top triple too. 

For the sticker use wd40

Ive got the page up on the next tab, and an email sent an hour ago to make SURE I'm getting what I need before I place an order.  Also, they actually make a part to fit the NEW GENERATION monster unlike speedymoto as I found out the hard way.  Their stuff looks like EXACTLY what I want for my bike, and the triple will be ordered today pending a response.

Glad Raux (and JV) mentioned these...my stomach knot subsided a little.


As for the sticker, WD40 didnt touch it, heat gun on low didnt touch it, alcohol/thinners didnt touch it.

The only luck I've had was clamping the tube in the vise (with an inch of padding...breathe fellas, breathe) and when soaked liberally in goo gone gel, scraping at it with a chunk of super hard plastic. (incidentally its a piece of roof rack that I filed an edge onto.)  Its taking FOREVER, but it IS working.

Just finished a bike that got 53/56 999R Ohlins FG forks.

IMA is the only vendor I found that makes a lower that'll safely handle the 56mm bore (and they'll come 56mm from IMA so that's a plus).

The IMA triples were a drop-in for my project bike.

Got my email response.

HOLY CRAP IMA ha my buisiness for here on out.

Incredibly indepth reply, I think I would be hard pressed to think of a question he didnt already give me the answer to!

he even offered to find out what rotor spacers I'll need and include them with the order.  

The only downside is apparently the whole of Italy takes the summer off...so im looking at september before he can get the order shipped.  Guess that means I'll have to spend the summer RIDING  [Dolph]  Oh well [roll]



Next order of business:  Find clipons (one piece) that will let me use my coffin master cylinders without the spacers.  (they work...but they are more of a bandaid than a solution.  they move the whole assembly out too far so my clutch switch no longer engages...so if i stall it, i have to flounder around and find neutral.)  Also since ive got taller forks, I can sling the clipons over the triple vice under it with risers.

Thoughts on the clipon front?

The woodcraft with the extra long bar option they have should work.

http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=13-4105 (http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=13-4105)

More investigation has led me to this.  Get a good quality clipon (like the ones from IMA with long bars) and deal with using my spacers for now.  Then on the next phase of modding, bump up to the Brembo RCS's where spacing will be a non issue.

RCS is good, but used/take-off brembo radials that are OEM equip on the higher spec models will be really good and a lot less money

[thumbsup]

Keeping an eye on gotham cycles for just such a thing.

EDIT: I'm seeing used stock superbike controls for ~$150-200 a side, plus XXX for levers.  versus $325 a side for the RCSs...  since this will be a later phase of the project, im not going to sweat it, but why buy used and upgrad it when you can buy new and use it as is.

That being said, Ill certainly keep my eye out for a better deal on second hand controls..

Oh nonsense.  They just take August off.  [laugh]

Oh!  Right!  [thumbsup]


Anyway, Ive got the forks cleaned and stripped of stickers, probably wont do anything more than a rebuild and respring until the fall/winter when I can get some more overtime and my triples ordered!

Rest assured...I will be digging this thread up now and again with slow updates!



Also, the ONLY thing I found that worked on that sticker is coating it in goo gone and then just scrape scrape scrape with a piece of super hard plastic.  ~3 hours to get that sticker totally gone.  then some rubbing alcohol to remove the goo gone residue.

Now Isabelle you behave!  [laugh]

Hey  .. I was talking about your Anti-lock Breaking System ... thus  "abs"  ;D [laugh]

SBK front axle and spacer from fleabay should be arriving today, as well as a radial clutch master (1098). ...good advice guys...  Now I need to keep an eye out for a matching brake master.  A friend is giving me an EvoTech reservoir that he didnt use so that helps.

Now, if anyone is considering a set of ASV C5 unbreakable levers for a 696/796 or anything else with coffins (which I HIGHLY recomend btw), I will gladly give you mine in exchange for a set of levers for a super bike!  (Like you buy sbk levers, and I send you mine +$50 in exchange)

Hopefully I will have some pictures up this weekend when some more parts are in.

If you are looking to sell your stock 796 forks, contact He Man on this forum.  I know he's looking for a set.

good luck with your project.  Put up some pics, maybe a tutorial??

Yeah I actually did talk to him about it, but I like to keep the stock parts just in case I ever want to go back.  So while every man has his price, my price just happens to be out of his budget.

I always end up putting up less pictures than I intend...but I'm going to try really hard to document the sh*t out of this one when D-day arrives and shes down for the season.  The biggest problem I have is I get on a roll and dont want to stop and snap...or I'm greasy and dont want to touch the camera.  People keep telling me about those "girlfriend" things...sometimes they are willing to watch and document...alegidly.  But if I had one of them...I wouldnt be building a $XX,XXX monster  [laugh]

Invite a buddy to take pictures / open your beers while you work.

Just read through your thread, looking forward to when you start tearing into your Monster.  [thumbsup]

Put up some before photos now so you don't forget later. Also, if you are looking for someone to play cameraman / help out. You can usually bribe some one you ride with. I have worked for pizza and  [drink] on lots of projects.

Update time! (kinda)

1098 brake and clutch M/Cs are in.  Rizoma reservoirs are in.  Micro switches for the M/Cs are in.  SBK axle and spacer are in.  Fork cap wrench is in.  Steering head nut tool is en route. CF sbk front fender is ordered (shipping from UK, should arrive after the new year...and I can say that confidently since the world didnt end last night)  Mod2evo triples and clipons should ship from IMAs factory in Italy on todays order.  All thats left is my rotor spacers (which Josh at IMA may be able to help with)  and 1 pivot pin for my brake M/C.  Also while I wait, Ill order the 8.0 N/mm springs for the forks (I'll worry about the valve stack once its all assembled.)

Need to do some tidying in the garage and get the bench cleaned up, pictures to come!




Anyone have a tip for getting the plunger into the rubber boot on my radial M/Cs?  Also, does anyone happen to know if the rubber boot itself is an easy to get piece?  I havent messed with it much, but it looks to be pressed in, and one of mine is torn...

 [thumbsup]  Thumbs up for Josh @ IMA.  I too am expecting upper/lower MOD2evo triples from him.  Great guy to deal with and has some nice quality parts!

My father and I rescued a full height Delta drill press from my grandfathers shop on Monday, pretty neat, has a brass U.S. Army tag on the base.

But that means I get my fathers bench top Delta drill press!  (both drills are probably 1950s early 1940s vintage if I had to guess.  Ill look into the serial number on mine later...)

(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/382803_684271133566_131183363_n.jpg)

Should make drilling the holes in the clip-on bars a little easier!  

(Grabbed the x-y traverse vise too...before anyone says it...no I am not going to do any milling with my drill press...and If I am...it will be aluminum with a tiny bite and low feed rate... ;D)

The bench top south bend lathe is the next tool to be rescued from the shop.  

I'd love one of these! looks great  [thumbsup]

I got used to having it at my disposal growing up.  Its a real PITA drilling a hole into a tube without one! 


Which reminds me of a story I heard about a guy my grandfathers age...
So my father tells the story:  This guy they called "bullshit bouley" had an old out-of-round drill bit chucked up in his drill press spinning super slow, every time it came around hed smack it with a hammer trying to get it back into round...
Dont know how much truth there is to the story, but it sure is funny as hell watching my father and grandfather cracking up talking about it. 

I digress. 

Lucky, the older ones are definitely built to last. I'm still using tools that my grandfather bought from his first 3 weeks of apprentice wages back in the late 30's, I've always had a thing for for them.. and won't buy a replacement unless absolutely necessary lol. Did bullshit bouley ever 'get around' to straightening up his bit? Haha [laugh]

"true" story.  [laugh]


Here are a few of the lathe... (should have it in a few weeks...hopefully before the barn collapses.)

(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/541800_684598891736_215695129_n.jpg)

(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/541943_684598916686_1402541301_n.jpg)

(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523044_684598876766_245419587_n.jpg)

Got the serial numbers off of both drill presses.
My bench top is 7-4270
My fathers floor model is 3-2878

According to the information below, that puts both of them pre 1941.  Im thinking probably 1938-1939 era.

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Default.aspx?Page=DeltaSerialNumbers&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 (http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Default.aspx?Page=DeltaSerialNumbers&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1)


Can't wait to find the tag on the Southbend...

MONSTER UPDATE TIME!!  ;D

(sorry in advance for the mixed measuring system, all the measurements are apples to apples, so itll be OK)


Alrighty first up, the bike at the start of the project.  (In case anyone is wondering, thats a BikeLift brand front end lift.)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/538575_685975248506_561054271_n.jpg)

And since the whole front end is coming off the bike, I needed another way of supporting the front end, and I really dont like the tow strap from the ceiling idea, so I decided to go with jack stands under the ever so conveniently located frame sliders.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/538606_685975323356_1291413587_n.jpg)

First bolts to turn are the 4 caliper bolts, as well as the axle nut.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/37081_685975443116_719819653_n.jpg)

Now, if you havent done this, you need to get some wiggle room between the pads and the rotor before you can get the calipers out, the first one is easy, you can carefully pry back and forth until youve got the pistons backed up in their bores.  The second one is a little tricker, you'll squeeze all the fluid from the second side into the first, then you run the risk of popping a piston out of the caliper.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/148983_685975478046_2024725222_n.jpg)

You cant really tell, but that zip tie is holding a spare brake pad in the rotor gap.  Works well to keep the pistons where they should be during removal, and in case your helper decides to give the brakes a squeeze.  I just used some parachute cord to hang the calipers from the frame.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/527515_685975463076_2082320987_n.jpg)

Wheel removed, calipers tied back.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/542060_685975483036_257058652_n.jpg)

More of the same.  (can you tell which cement block I pulled out of the snow bank?)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/400134_685975502996_1553757663_n.jpg)

Front wheel removed.  (ABS disk facing out)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/200521_685975527946_69813266_n.jpg)

Front axle, spacer, and nut. (I wiped them down before snapping the picture.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/71575_685975532936_661754213_n.jpg)

OK, Measuring time!

First, the right side shoulder of the MONSTER axle.  59mm
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/307505_685975547906_713428066_n.jpg)

Next the monster axle spacer.  21mm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/47642_685975582836_1053557009_n.jpg)

Axle shoulder diameter.  30mm
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/544011_685975602796_1472190194_n.jpg)

Axle small diameter.  25mm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/307129_685975597806_352458747_n.jpg)

Axle spacer diameter.  35mm
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/397756_685975622756_1486327416_n.jpg)

Here comes the dimensional mess part...

Axle total legnth.  10 1/4 INCHES (!?!)  (yeah I know...but like I said, apples to apples...this is for comparison to the other thing which is ALSO measured in inches.  Stupid inches.)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/537788_685975642716_377098903_n.jpg)

Axle legnth again.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/527488_685975652696_1521196910_n.jpg)

NOW.  1198 axle.  Overall legnth, ~9 7/8 inches
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/185843_685975682636_917191735_n.jpg)

SBK shoulder legnth.  58mm 
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/735221_685975717566_1608480225_n.jpg)

SBK shoulder diameter. 35mm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/603207_685975727546_2022314256_n.jpg)

SBK axle diameter. 25mm
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/385267_685975737526_1404634619_n.jpg)

SBK spacer legnth. 21mm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/150923_685975787426_910951175_n.jpg)

SBK spacer diameter. 35mm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/735242_685975782436_950994606_n.jpg)

The two axles side by each.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/321071_685975822356_802915434_n.jpg)

And again.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/544052_685975832336_1989765780_n.jpg)

ABS side rotor removed. (and filthy.)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/602829_685975922156_1473927957_n.jpg)

Rotor inner diameter. 72mm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/252145_685975912176_1477427543_n.jpg)

Rotor bolt clearance hole diameter.  call it 9mm (clearance remember)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/64593_685976036926_1232141727_n.jpg)

distance from the hub hole to the bolt hole. 5mm
Kinda random right? Heres why:
(Rotor ID)/2 + (bolt hole diameter)/2 + distance between, all multiplied by 2 gives me my bolt circle at 91mm (or an easier way, big hole diameter + half the small hole diameter + distance between.) So, now I can get rotor spacers cut.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/603255_685976026946_1127370396_n.jpg)

OF COURSE on bolt 9 out of 10.  Goddamn torx.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/304653_685976066866_687953848_n.jpg)

Luckily I have a decent assortment of damaged fastener removal tools.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/185943_685976121756_180357226_n.jpg)

The one that worked here is from craftsman.  6 flutes are cut with a left hand super tall helix, so you bash this thing onto the head of the bolt, then back it out with a ratchet, and the flutes cut into the bolt head and tighten as you back it out...as long as you dont shave the edges off the bolt in the process.  Luckily it worked perfectly this time.  Ill be using all new hardware for the rotors anyway, so no big loss here.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/389636_685976151696_211202100_n.jpg)

Front wheel looks kinda strange all by its lonesome.  (also FILTHY)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/603062_685976156686_2082188042_n.jpg)

So, the Marzocchis on the front of the M796 measure 28" overall.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/163378_685976196606_1113803172_n.jpg)

About 18.5"  to the dust boot.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/394965_685976216566_1021925395_n.jpg)

And about 11" to the bottom of the lower triple clamp.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3409_685976251496_1257703509_n.jpg)

For the shitty pic of the evening, thats supposed to show 2.5" to the bottom of the woodcraft clip-on clamp.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/25050_685976241516_1371400737_n.jpg)

Fender hardware.  Nylon washers go between the bolt and the fender, steel washers go between the fender and the fork slider on the right fork tube only.  The ABS bracket is on the left instead of washers.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/553271_685976321356_1229826492_n.jpg)

Headlight assy removed.  While its off I pulled it appart and sent the aluminum frame out to powdercoat.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/734262_685976376246_1798781271_n.jpg)

Woodcraft clipons removed.  I am not SUPER impressed with the quality of the hardware that came on these, the socket heads are already showing signs of strippage.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/46379_685976381236_1004159775_n.jpg)

More of the same.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/13782_685976386226_837104215_n.jpg)

Next to come off are the steering stop screws.  No point in measuring here, just careful reinstallation and checking. And double checking.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/582246_685976441116_65866188_n.jpg)

Just some parts and tools all over the bench.  And the old forks.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/582246_685976446106_934764612_n.jpg)

In the hopes to stop brake fluid from leaking all over everywhere, I made some hangers from masons string.  (tied them to the garage door hanger...had a panic attack when my brother opened the door...then i realized the door stopped a foot before them.)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/252028_685976491016_569939779_n.jpg)

Now.  This handy little tool (obviously not the official Ducati one) is to pull the steering head nut.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/734703_685975258486_81459631_n.jpg)

This shipped to me courtacy of Ducati Tool Rental (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?action=profile;u=5287) Thanks Evan!!
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/407813_685975293416_1143886385_n.jpg)

Really not much to it.  I expected more.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/553144_685976486026_1398423515_n.jpg)

Lower triple comming off, grease looks good, and there is a ton of it.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/735117_685976515966_960348541_n.jpg)

And here she sits waiting on parts!
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/307189_685976605786_103217163_n.jpg)

Finally, took a ride over to Great Bay Motorcycles to check in with Mike Archambault (http://www.greatbaymotorcycles.com/about-us/our-people/item/mike-archambault) on my forks.  He pulled them appart, checked them all out, and called me with recommendations.  We decided to swap out the 10n/mm springs with 8's, and in order to fight some of the braking dive that results from less spring tension, pulled two washers form the valving stack.  (the two next to the spring at the bottom of the picture.)  Other than that he said they looked just about perfect inside, better than he had hoped when I dropped them off.  They will get new seals and dust boots anyway.  Also, apparently ohins some times gets the blue and red locktite mixed up and when you try and disassemble the fork, you leave the cartridge buried in the fork tube and remove just the top cap.  Fortunately, that wasnt the case here, and all went smooth.

Ohlins eye candy:
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/r270/385302_685976625746_903961750_n.jpg)

Alright, when I pulled the forks off I took a little video too.  Heres proof of why I am doing this mod.  And to anyone out there that thinks I'm spending a lot of money for less than 10% gain...well, your entitled to your opinion I suppose, even if your dead wrong.

Ducati Monster 796 Marzocchi fork (stock) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfWoZQFJ4yI#)


Thats enough updates for one night.  Off to find a [drink]

[popcorn]
This is really, really helpful for anyone who's intending to do this mod!
Are you adding this to the Tutorials section when you are done?

It makes me want to upgrade my fork too by the way.
Thank you for me throwing yet another silly amount of money at my bike.  ;)

When I'm done and done I may put together a tutorial if theres enough interest.  Ive got another update coming at some point here of the new parts pile that is amassing.   Really just waiting on the triples from IMA at this point.  Forks will be done tuesday/Wednesday.

Great thread! Loving all the photos, details, and measurements. Fun winter project, eh?  [popcorn]

Tutorial would be great [thumbsup] I know I'd get use out of it!

I also love the thread and think a tutorial would be great. Nice work!

Alrighty then.  Once I'm all done, wrapped up and have all the kinks worked through, Ill get everything (pictures and such) reorganized and do a "new gen monster SBK front end swap tutorial"

Small update.  Did some construction and insulating work in the garage, Monster is pretty much on hold until parts arrive. (Still waiting to hear back from IMA.)

Alright, so another problem I am potentially facing is brake and clutch lines.  Because the lines on the coffin masters mount vertically on the inner ends of the MCs and the lines on the radial masters mound on the bottom of the MCs, I will possibly have the problem of the lines not working due to the angle of the fittings on the MC end of the line.  (both brake and clutch)

I put together a table of the part numbers of a M796ABS and M1100EVO since both have ABS.

             Brake                            Clutch
796ABS   61841062A                        63210541A
1100EVO   61841102A ($205.99)   63210602A ($75.99)
   
Not that I expected the part numbers to match, but it would have been nice for once.   [laugh]  Hopfully I have enough slack in the lines to make them work, but if not, looks like another $300 for lines...or possibly having new fittings put onto my lines.   [bang]

I've had custom brake lines made for my Monster.
The original fittings were toughing the wheel with my new brakes installed.
They were about EUR 80,00 in total if I remember correctly.
But make sure you take the measurements at least twice.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8361487185_199834f604.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/8361487185/)
DSC_5217 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42713759@N03/8361487185/#)

Great, not as bad as I thought.  The thing to do might be to find a hydraulic shop that can make them and bring them mine to copy and just indicate the changes I want to make.  (ie, fitting on the end.)  Im liking the hydraulic lines though.  (and your wheels.  [drool]  next phase of my modding game may just be forged wheels with SBK rotors...some day)

Though I'm not 100% sure - it looks like the stock forks are separate function. One leg, the one in your video does one job like preload, the other leg does the damping. Did you mess with the other leg at all?

That video had both legs in it, the first was the leg with no damping, after the fade was the other leg with damping...

Ah - failed to pay attention to the details. Thought it was a before (monster fork) and after (SBK fork) initially.

Understood.  No, unfortunately at the point I decided to take the video, the SBK forks were already torn down at the shop.  When I have the SBK forks built and back in hand Ill be sure to shoot one of them for comparison.

Speaking of details...the SBK forks are gold remember?  ;)

Carbon fiber 1198 fender came in yesterday, it has some vents in it that I was a little worried about, but since they are the same material as the tank vents, I think its going to work on the bike extremely well.  Ill try and post a picture tonight.

Watching with interest...

...and impressed at your shock dyno. ;)

Impressed was not my word of choice when it happened.  [thumbsup]

Some updates:

Ohlins is a little backed up building a training classroom or something, so springs and seals wont be in until mid next week.  Which is actually fine because I finally got a hold of IMA, and the triples and clipons made the last shipment from Italy so they should be in late next week!!    ;D ;D

Other good news, I took a look at a M1100EVO over at great bay yesterday, it looks like the lines arent going to be an issue at all!   they dont have the bent style banjo ends that the SBKs do, so panic for no reason!  (I do believe the difference in part number is simply because of the fact that the 1100 has black lines.)

I have absolutely no bad feelings about double posting the living crap out of my own thread.  ;D

So here are some pictures:


I figured since I will probably be held up by powdercoat in the end anyway, why not send some more stuff that way?
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/538590_687175737716_935009895_n.jpg)

Rizoma Zero-11's will be reused. (because I just love them so goddamn much!)  Along with my CRG Arrow bar end mirrors.  Ill be using stock SBK levers for the time being, on that note, Ive now got a set of ASV C5 unbreakables that i no longer have a use for...they should fit any monster with coffin style masters.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/150949_687175787616_1833303146_n.jpg)

New SBK brake and clutch pumps, along with a full compliment of Rizoma fluid reservoirs.  (I might have gone a little balls to the wall on the big brake reservoir...)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/19982_687175802586_855106526_n.jpg)

Side by side of the new CF SBK mudguard next to the monster one.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/150963_687175807576_218719742_n.jpg)

And again.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/73296_687175827536_491935062_n.jpg)

I was a little skeptical of the "vents" but as it happens they are a prefect match to the screen on the tank!
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/63737_687175842506_701382540_n.jpg)

No plate! Racetail!!
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/424117_687175732726_568279349_n.jpg)

Can't wait to see it all added to the bike! That front gaurd is mean! If I may ask.. why did you give up the asv levers? I actually lost my license before I got a chance to use them properly (3 more weeks until suspension period is over ;D) Pros and cons? I was also thinking of replacing the brake and clutch master cylinders on my 659, adds a real nice touch [thumbsup]

The levers only fit the coffin masters, the radials take a different lever.  I will pick up another set of ASVs eventually because I absolutely love them..  Heres my ideal plan.  Find someone that wants the ASVs for their monster, and convince them to buy levers that will fit a superbike instead, then just trade them mine (plus like $50 of course)

Hint hint nudge nudge...

I figured this after doing a bit of research after the post, considering doing so myself. As for your plan [laugh]

freeclimbmtb,
Any updates on your fork swap yet?
I'm anxious to see your progress...  [popcorn]

Good god has it been 10 days since an update?!

I've got some more pictures and should be able to put them up tonight. 

Updates:
I changed out the micro switches for the new masters, which requred pulling the air box. (a PITA with the ABS block mounted in the way.)  While it was off, pulled the emissions sticker.  The parts I sent off for powder coat are in and back on.  Ordered a few OEM things (due to arrive tomorrow), including some hardware I found missing, and a plastic wire/brake line guide that was broken.  Also got the old steering head bearings tapped out.  Forks are built and back in my shop.  Have the Marzocchis back too so I can do a side by side dyno demo for y'all if youd like. 

Next up:
When the OEM bits arrive tomrorow I can get the airbox, tank, etc all put back on.  The real hang up is the box from IMA.  Paid for, arrived safely to the states from Italy, should be on its way, but I dont have a tracking number so I'm just sitting on the couch with one eye on the tv and one out the window watching for the brown truck...  After that, the only remaning parts will be rotor spacers and new hardware. (a friend is cutting the spacers on the CNC at his school, and the bolts should just be a trip to fastenall)


In other news...I've got my lathe!!  It needs some cleaning and painting, and is most likely going to turn into a bit of a restoration project before I get any real use out of it.  But its gonna be a fun one for sure.


Note on the rotor bolts.  Its looking like I might need to order a package of 50 from McMaster...so if anyone else is planning this swap, let me know, I'll probably be able to help you out...

Also since they are 10.9 steel (similar to Grade 8 ) they are going to rust.  Anyone know of a paint/coating I can hit them with before/after assembly that will take the heat of braking? Im thinking some walmart special caliper paint, they are not in direct contact with the braking surface of the rotors so they will see minimal heat.

CRC sell a cold galvanizing spray . . . http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=18412 (http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=18412)

Pictures as promised.

No more undertail stainless steel.  Just need to plastidip the plate light (the body not the lens) and get some new 2 sided tape to stick it back on.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/734894_689156119016_931576000_n.jpg)


(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/379199_689156188876_730950534_n.jpg)

Pretty good shot showing the blacked out exhaust hanger brackets and blacked out stainless bits from the competition werkes tail kit.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/734376_689156203846_45877367_n.jpg)

Broomstick handlebars.  (trying to keep the coffins upright so they dont leak all over everything.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399106_689156228796_901574918_n.jpg)


(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/184604_689156243766_1869951430_n.jpg)

Didnt realize until now how much space is taken up by that air box.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/36516_689156263726_2058870261_n.jpg)

Air box with the big ugly emissions sticker removed.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/150683_689156283686_1691809265_n.jpg)

Notice the height difference, should be just enough to get the clip ons on top of the triple and maintain the stock geometry.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/166550_689156303646_1241651801_n.jpg)

I never really understood the difference in capacity of the fuel tank between an ABS and non-ABS Monster.
Until I saw picture no 6...  :-[ ...that ABS control unit is huge!  Still though, sometimes wish I had ABS on my bike.

Those Ohlins shocks look fancy too. Still waiting on that package from IMA?

One must put the Flux Capacitor some place

Re: IMA.  A bird told me it is out the door.

Did that little bird whisper a tracking number to you?  ;)

But really though...that makes me  ;D    [beer]

I need to pick your brain on the IMA triples you have on your M900.
I just picked up a '94 M900 with non-adjustable forks that need upgrading. IMA triples will be taken into consideration on fork selection.

Sorry for the thread jack.

Thats what PM's are for  [thumbsup]

(of course Im the last one to complain about thread jacking...)


In other news, rotor bolts shipped, should arrive today.

Also got a tracking number from IMA, scheduled to arrive tomorrow!!  (unfortuantely though, it shipped FedEx which means it requres a signature...so theres not really any chance I'll be able to get it before the weekend, and will probably have to have them hold the shipment at the facility for pickup.   [bang] [bang] )

Good old Testor's model paint should be fine, and it's available in a huge array of colors.

Im glad someone said that.  It was the idea I had looming in the back of my mind since Ive got a box of modeling stuff in the closet from back in the day.  Hopefully Ive still got some gloss black that hasnt dried up yet.  Plan is to paint the heads of the bolts before install, then touch up the drivers once they are on and secure. 

As for those fastners, ive heard mixed reviews regarding anti-seize/locktite on rotor bolts.  I know adding anything to the threads is going to throw off the torque spec as those are spec'd for a dry fit, but I know they had red assembly compound on them when I took them apart. (as I understand it the red Im finding on the factory fastners is not locktite brand and has similar characteristics to the blue locktite im used to. 

AFAIK all Ducati rotor bolts call for blue Loctite.  When the spec calls for Loctite or lube or antisieze that is accounted for in the torque spec.

Perfect.  Thanks Howie! 

Turns out my little bottle of gloss black model paint is dried up.  I hit the bolts with a few blasts of brake parts cleaner to get any oil off, then 2 coats of gloss black rustoleum that I had lying around last night.  Also gave the wheels a good cleaning as well as the brake rotors and ABS wheel.  Chased the threads on the rotor bolt holes too, just to clean out any old thread locker. 

The IMA package is tracked as on the truck for delivery...but its shipped FedEx Home Delivery with Direct Signature Required.  So basically FedEx expects me to be home from 9am to 8pm to sign in person or I have to drive 45 minutes to the distribution center to pick it up in person.  At least they make it easy.  [bang]

I remember back in the day my father used to order stuff and have it shipped to his work...wish I could get away with that, but unfortunately, 5000 people in a gated secure facility kinda kills the chances of getting boxes shipped to my desk.

Thats the final straw.  Im quitting my job and opening a climbing gym in the abandoned brick building in downtown Portsmouth just so I can get packages delivered to me at work!

(Really though, that is a life goal)


Back to the bike though. 

Since I dont have my rotor spacers yet, I am contemplating other options. 

I started compiling a chart of what should work:

(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/598923_690233619696_381736740_n.jpg)

So rotors from an 848, 1100s, or newer S4Rs, as well as any 749 or 999 should all work... 

What will you be doing with your old forks+triple?

I like to keep all my stock parts 'just in case'

I might use one of the fork legs to club squirrels if I run out of pellets though.  Thats about all that fork is good for. 










(why do you ask)

pm sent

998R had 6bolt 15mm offset

This should be put in the FAQ or some sort of definitive fork upgrade guide.

Thanks!  Ill update my chart.  (and keep em coming...I want to get a comprehensive guide together...wheels, forks, anything someone might want to source.)

the SFS has the 330s? wow

btw... AFAIK if you want to run 330s all you need is the 5mm spacers and longer bolts for the radial calipers.

I believe it does...there were rotors for sale that were listed as compatible with all those bikes.  The list isnt verified 100% accurate, and certainly is open for improvement and/or update. 


I looked into this option too, if I go to a lighter, forged wheel, I may still do it, but the increased rotating mass and increased gyro effect will sacrafice handling only to make the braking more suicidal...not really worth it for me.  Id rather be able to throw it around than used the hard on the throttle hard on the brakes liter bike method...



(This coming from someone with absolutely no first hand track experience...so take it with a grain of salt.)

(I am doing track day(s) this summer though I SWEAR TO GOD)

FWIW, the Monster gen1/2, ST series with 25mm axle front wheels are compatible with Gen2 M696/796, for the rear, Monster Gen1/2 is compatible with M696 . . . same bolt pattern, spacing . . .

Thats my intention.  Ive got one for forks too, but its barely started.

Well, just like I said, those idiots tried to get a signature at 11:45 in the morning on a package marked Home Delivery.  Guess I need factor in the cost of using sick leave when I order things so I can be there to pick them up.  Better still, when I called customer service and asked if I could meet the truck back at the distribution center after work, they said no, there is absolutely no way of getting the package tonight.  So I told them to deliver it to one of the fedex stores tomorrow so I can get it after work.

I guess this should be taken as a lesson, NEVER again accept FedEx as a means of shipping when ordering something. 

 ;D  [beer]

IMA ships with the full value declared for insurance purposes, because of this they require signature for delivery.  Your situation is unique in that you cannot have it delivered to work.  You should be able to have it "left at local FedEx station for pickup" though after first delivery.

IMA does not use UPS because of their higher price and they are the only shipper that has "lost" a package thus far.  (Not counting international shipments which occasionally "disappear" on their way to Australia, New Zealand, UK, Japan, etc...)

Yeah, I cant fault IMA, I blame myself for not asking the question when I worked out the shipping and billing details.  (I was just venting because I was pissed at myself for not making sure)  I will pay $20 to ship a package UPS even if they offer free shipping with FedEx.  I have had nothing but resounding negative experiences with FedEx.  I have never once had something shipped by them that went off without some sort of issue.  UPS on the other hand, I have had nothing but success with.  For instance if they attempt a delivery and Im not home, but then they drive past an hour later on the other side of the route and see a car in the drive way, they make a second attempt.  I've also flagged the driver down and gotten packages when they missed me.  Also, I can call UPS and pick the package up the same night at the distribution center when the truck gets back.  FedEx said "there is absolutely no way you can get your package today"  With a service like "FedEx HOME delivery" that makes delivery attpempts "durring normal business hours" its almost like they are counting on people being layed off. 

Just me and my experience(s).  I don't like dealing with companies as inflexable and unaccomodating as they are, thats all.

ANYWAY.  As long as it actually makes it there, I will be picking the box up from the local store after work.  Hopefully will make some progress tonight!

I'll let Milli know she needs to click the "evening" checkbox (even though its an extra expense) on the FedEx Home Delivery service in the future.  You'd have had those things long ago had there not been a miscommunication between the US-side and the Italian-side re: fork bores - there's a new process in place now that is designed to eliminate such miscommunications and ensure more prompt delivery times.  IMA (both US and Italian sides) have a definite delivery 'trouble' period between our US Thanksgiving Holiday and New Year's Day with various holidays on both sides, vacation times, and so forth.  But as above, we are working on a more streamlined processing method AND the US side is building up a significant inventory of the commonly ordered products (though we are still a touch short-handed).

I blame winter in general, I know thats why I'm grumpy.  I know full well that I'm going to be impressed and happy with the parts, and it will be well worth the wait.  But when I find myself without something to keep me busy...I tend to find things to complain about.  Im trying to work on it.

But like you said, Im kind of a unique situation where I don't have the option of shipping stuff to work.  So more than likely...I'm going to be the only one to complain about it!  Don't go changing a system just because of me. 

If there's a way to improve, I know IMA wants, at least, to affirmatively reject it for a specified reason after investigating it, rather than not looking into at all and continuing business-as-usual.

They've invested quite a bit into the research and design of the parts, use only top quality materials (7075) and operate on really low profit margins to bring customers a great product at a very reasonable price.   Making sure the "getting-it-into-your-paws" aspect is at least satisfactory is a must.  

The US shop is still pretty short-handed though, and with winter - you a prime example - the modding bug is really grabbing a hold of folks in the northern hemisphere.  IMA Special Parts N.A. has a huge email and phone-call backlog right now that's slowly getting worked through (for the most part, people have been friendly and patient with Milli as she gets to them).  The winter-modding bug has certainly bitten me this year since my other winter-hobby (shooting) is hard to purchase consumables for currently.  (So like you, I'm doing a bit of suspension work on one of my bikes: I'm putting Ohlins-valved Ducati SBK forks on my SportClassic GT1000 using clear anodized IMA triple clamps with special headlight-bracketry to fit to OEM bits; originally I was going to retrofit the fancy Ohlins cartridges from Andreani Group in the OEM forks but decided that this new plan was arguably better, all things considered.  I'm still trying to figure out which rear shocks to get... there are a few, from budget options up to Ohlins.  I don't know much about Bitubo's quality/performance, and others have suggested go 'cheap' with YSS, Hagon or Ikon...  If anyone has opinions, PM me).  

End thread-jack.


Also, I'm excited about your build's progress.  Pics are always great.

Thats all I ask! [laugh]


I'm looking into alternatives to the go-to M696/796/1100 solution (Ohlins DU-737) as well...not because its a bad solution...but I'm clearly not one that goes with the easy solution.  Actually trying to see if I can find a remote reservoir shock that I can retrofit...I can ask my suspension guy about the GT1000 and see what his thoughts are.  I know my local shop owner rides one.

No worries about thread jacking...I would be the biggest hipocrite on DMF if I got mad about it.

You should also talk to Traxxion Dynamics out of Atlanta about having a Penske done for you (or if you have a shop there that does, by all means, use them).  Penske's are very customize-able as far as amount of features for your budget, and so forth.

 Have you read this thread?

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/42-monster/149665-race-tech-has-suspension-2012-1100-evo.html (http://www.ducati.ms/forums/42-monster/149665-race-tech-has-suspension-2012-1100-evo.html)

 I did the Ohlins 737 on my 696 and there was a noticeable difference, mainly from changing the damping from firm twisty riding to soft for freeway riding.

 I just bought a monster 1100S and the difference between the Ohlins forks and the 696 pogo sticks are night and day different. The forks are the money for street riding, IMHO.

Like I said, its not that I wouldnt be perfectly happy with the DU-737, I just like to do things differently.


Worth? Not worth?  ...not really sure where you were going with that...

 Excuse my poor writing skills  :)

 Yes, the forks made all the difference in the handling, soaking up potholes and bumps while staying at speed. The shock, not as drastic a difference as the forks, but more tunable than the original, plus the springs front and back, set up for my weight.
 I have no racing or track experience, just my favorite twisty roads..

Great to hear it!!  [thumbsup]