So my regulator burnt out. Should have listened to booger and done it earlier [roll]
Not sure which one to go with.
Rick's Motorsport one (I'm assuming this one is compatible with a s2r 800): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ricks-Motorsport-Hot-Shot-Regulator-Rectifier-Ducati-748-750-996-998-Monster-ST-/370636180818?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564ba34d52&vxp=mtr#ht_3001wt_906 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ricks-Motorsport-Hot-Shot-Regulator-Rectifier-Ducati-748-750-996-998-Monster-ST-/370636180818?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564ba34d52&vxp=mtr#ht_3001wt_906)
or one from Ca-Cycleworks: http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/esr537 (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/esr537)
Any recommendation guys?
Additionally looking to mount the regulator under the bike suck as the TPO kit. However that one also removes the breather thingy. Is there any reason why I can't just mount the new regulator under the plastic and screwing it on?
I put a Rick's in my M900 years ago...don't remember how many.
Still ticking. [thumbsup]
Quote from: ducpainter on August 04, 2012, 03:51:22 PM
I put a Rick's in my M900 years ago...don't remember how many.
Still ticking. [thumbsup]
Thanks ducpainter!
I have a dilemma however. How do I both keep the crankcase breather while simultaneously mount the regulator underneath the bike? This is on a s2r...
I got the Ca-Cycleworks and it works great .. very good quality and very well done piece [thumbsup]
[popcorn]
Where did you mount yours ducatigirl?
Quote from: xsephirot on August 04, 2012, 09:29:38 PM
Where did you mount yours ducatigirl?
At the front. where it supposed to be . I would never attempt to put it elsewere considering the reason that I change it was because it literally caugth on fire. :o :o I stop by the side of the road and threw some dirt at it ! [bang] those thing get hot !!give it some air
it burn half of all the wiring in front of the bike ( I add to get a new wiring loom [roll])
thus... after changing the regulator the bike ran allot better. acceleration is smoother.
You want whichever one has the MOSFET circuitry. It has to do with how the excess energy is dissipated, stock one is not ideal. Heats up & fries, and the stock mounting location doesn't help.
http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm (http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm)
i got one of these and couldnt be happier. barely gets warm and 100% trouble free notoring ever since.
Quote from: Roaduser on August 05, 2012, 10:31:45 PM
http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm (http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm)
i got one of these and couldnt be happier. barely gets warm and 100% trouble free notoring ever since.
Awesome thanks! I like how it comes with everything you need. Is there any reason to use the 30A fuse to the battery? I've heard it is possible to do without it (less connections = less chance of failure parts)
Additionally, did you move where you mounted your regulator?
Second the Shindengen one. That's the route I'm taking with mine.
I've also moved it forward to where the battery used to be. Not that that's likely to be any use to you, of course.
Quote from: suzyj on August 06, 2012, 03:24:49 PM
Second the Shindengen one. That's the route I'm taking with mine.
I've also moved it forward to where the battery used to be. Not that that's likely to be any use to you, of course.
Please do elaborate? Did you go with a smaller battery such as the shorai and then mounted it next to it?
Quote from: xsephirot on August 06, 2012, 03:41:13 PM
Please do elaborate? Did you go with a smaller battery such as the shorai and then mounted it next to it?
A smaller battery, yes, but not the Shorai.
Here's a photo of the general layout - a little out of date and with the standard rectifier in there rather than the Shindengen, but it gives the overall idea:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VGlZoTf7htY/T5Iua253BXI/AAAAAAAABMI/TZBG6fEPm4Q/s1223/DSC_2997.JPG)
This photo shows the Shindengen rectifier mounted, but not on the bike:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wh_o3XygJeA/T_9PcQl8IbI/AAAAAAAABj0/xuezMkFN0oY/s1070/DSC_3271.JPG)
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56614.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56614.0) has the whole saga :)
That is so tidy. [thumbsup]
Quote from: koko64 on August 06, 2012, 09:57:33 PM
That is so tidy. [thumbsup]
+1 Thanks for the pics Suzy!
I must say that these 2 pics look absolutely horrifying. I want to reroute alot of wires too (and the oil lines) but this wire loom looks and feels just like [bang] [bang] [bang]
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yaU7Ya7bQmo/T5IumXtdVLI/AAAAAAAABMY/_Na7n_NJxUE/s1223/DSC_3002.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vFN9i5x9Stg/T5IugyYiUxI/AAAAAAAABMQ/DwSvyjRRv80/s1223/DSC_3001.JPG)
Quote from: xsephirot on August 04, 2012, 03:49:16 PM
So my regulator burnt out. Should have listened to booger and done it earlier [roll]
Not sure which one to go with.
Rick's Motorsport one (I'm assuming this one is compatible with a s2r 800): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ricks-Motorsport-Hot-Shot-Regulator-Rectifier-Ducati-748-750-996-998-Monster-ST-/370636180818?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564ba34d52&vxp=mtr#ht_3001wt_906 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ricks-Motorsport-Hot-Shot-Regulator-Rectifier-Ducati-748-750-996-998-Monster-ST-/370636180818?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564ba34d52&vxp=mtr#ht_3001wt_906)
or one from Ca-Cycleworks: http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/esr537 (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/esr537)
Any recommendation guys?
Additionally looking to mount the regulator under the bike suck as the TPO kit. However that one also removes the breather thingy. Is there any reason why I can't just mount the new regulator under the plastic and screwing it on?
Quote from: Privateer on July 06, 2012, 11:21:07 AM
flipped my rectifier and got rid of all the plastic crap under there.
(https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/557749_4262477565396_1172500745_n.jpg)
I dont think you'll be able to easily mount the rectifier under the plastic tank. I removed the tank, stuck a small filter in the end of the outgoing breather hose, zip tied it to the frame, and plugged the airbox with an old bar end plug.
I like how you used a license plate in place of the plastic deflector [thumbsup]. But how in the world did your DMV let you keep your plates?
I do not want to get rid of my crankcase breather is the problem even though I want to mount my regulator under the seat.
Anyone know if with this aftermarket crankcase breather that I will still fit even with the regulator relocated under the seat with it?
http://motowheels.com/i-6921121-stm-stile-crankcase-oil-breather.html (http://motowheels.com/i-6921121-stm-stile-crankcase-oil-breather.html)
That's just the valve - you still need to either plumb it up to your existing reservoir behind the shock, or plumb it up directly to the airbox, or put a filter on top of it.
There's no need to change the valve to remove the reservoir - just put a filter on top of the existing one, or else plumb the existing one up straight to the airbox.
Quote from: suzyj on August 09, 2012, 03:10:47 PM
That's just the valve - you still need to either plumb it up to your existing reservoir behind the shock, or plumb it up directly to the airbox, or put a filter on top of it.
There's no need to change the valve to remove the reservoir - just put a filter on top of the existing one, or else plumb the existing one up straight to the airbox.
Plumbing straight to the airbox might put enough oil mist in the airbox to drip out of the airbox drain.
Not a problem per se, but you might go nuts looking for the new oil leak. ;)
Quote from: xsephirot on August 07, 2012, 11:43:52 AM
I like how you used a license plate in place of the plastic deflector [thumbsup]. But how in the world did your DMV let you keep your plates?
the plate was a road side find.
Quote from: suzyj on August 09, 2012, 03:10:47 PM
That's just the valve - you still need to either plumb it up to your existing reservoir behind the shock, or plumb it up directly to the airbox, or put a filter on top of it.
There's no need to change the valve to remove the reservoir - just put a filter on top of the existing one, or else plumb the existing one up straight to the airbox.
Thanks Suzy [thumbsup]. The less I need the more money I don't have to spend haha.
So I think I'm just going to drill the plastic and mount the regulator on an aluminum plate and then to the plastic. Can someone recommend me the best type of screw/nut combo that will can handle being torqued semi tight and won't get loose. I plan on using loctite but just want piece of mind.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ (http://www.mcmaster.com/)
Just use a nylock nut (self locking with nylon insert) without the loctite on the bolt of your choice with washers under the bolt head and the nut. It'll stay where you put it on the bolt even if the whole assembly spins.
Enter "nylock" in the McMaster-Carr search box.
Quote from: carbmon on August 31, 2012, 10:27:37 PM
Just use a nylock nut (self locking with nylon insert) without the loctite on the bolt of your choice with washers under the bolt head and the nut. It'll stay where you put it on the bolt even if the whole assembly spins.
Enter "nylock" in the McMaster-Carr search box.
Thanks mate! [thumbsup]
I'm pretty incompetent. I'm assuming the 3 YELLOW ones are all for the stator? Did you guys cut it from the connector or after the connector? I don't think it's long enough for it to reach the regulator if I cut before the connector even though I want more reliability...
Pretty timely thread. I was just dinking around on the M900 and had been considering a spare. I'd installed an Electrex years ago and may also go that route as I've had no issues to date with it.