Was doing some service on the 900 yesterday and encountered something that made for a "hrm.' moment.
2000 900 S, 34,xxx miles. Kept in good running order, but the head bearings are likely the originals. I have not replaced and the bought the bike at 18k
When refitting the front wheel, I pumped the front end a couple times to line things up, free wheeling and all felt well. I then grabbed the front brake and pumped the front again. This time there's a feeling of a shift or minor 'clunk' about an inch to the forks stroke. It seems to be at (about) the same spot each time. Free wheel, is fine. Brakes it hitches...
I'm suspecting as is Zooom that I need to tighten and/or replace my head bearings but i wanted to see what the hive mind thinks as well.
I have NOT tightened the head nut at all yet. It was quitting time when I encountered this issue and I decided to let it rest for a night.
as far as I know, retorquing the head bolt is part of one of the major services.
Quote from: Slide Panda on August 29, 2012, 06:17:57 AM
I have NOT tightened the head nut at all yet. It was quitting time when I encountered this issue and I decided to let it rest for a night.
I meant recently and as part of this process. I did put a wrench to a a while back, but it's probably (over) due.
Would a feeling of shifting while compressing the front, with the brakes on be a normal indication that the nut/bearings need attending to? Or are their other issues that it might indicate.
???
no, I just have no further input.
I did have that shifting feeling like you talked about.
I put new bearings in when I rebuilt the bike.
after a few weeks of riding I had to loosen the top triple and retighten the steering stem bolt to make it go away.
but not sure if that's related to old/worn bearings.
it's standard after installing new bearings to go in and retorque after 500 or so miles after they take their seat.
Quote from: Slide Panda on August 29, 2012, 07:42:56 AM
it's standard after installing new bearings to go in and retorque after 500 or so miles after they take their seat.
well, there ya go. you have all my knowledge of the situation ;)
the bearings aren't particularly expensive... I would definitely put in a tapered style bearing, rather than the normal ball bearing. I've been happy with my speedymoto unit, but I know there are a few options available.
my thoughts are this... if they are overdue to be changed (sounds like they are), and you have a slight hunch that they might be the source of an abnormality, then why not replace them.
worst case scenario is that it wasn't the source of the "clunk," and you have fresh bearings in and don't have to worry for a while.
from reading your posts here and there, it seems like you have the mechanical ability and knowledge to pull off the job, so I assume it's a matter of wanting to cut into your riding time?
Quote from: corey on August 29, 2012, 08:05:15 AM
the bearings aren't particularly expensive... I would definitely put in a tapered style bearing, rather than the normal ball bearing. I've been happy with my speedymoto unit, but I know there are a few options available.
my thoughts are this... if they are overdue to be changed (sounds like they are), and you have a slight hunch that they might be the source of an abnormality, then why not replace them.
worst case scenario is that it wasn't the source of the "clunk," and you have fresh bearings in and don't have to worry for a while.
Which is the way I'm leaning. I've been eyeing the speedy moto bearings for a while. Figure to rent the tool set with all the special gizmos for the job.
Quote from: corey on August 29, 2012, 08:05:15 AM
from reading your posts here and there, it seems like you have the mechanical ability and knowledge to pull off the job, so I assume it's a matter of wanting to cut into your riding time?
Pretty much sums it up. Though I want to ensure that I'm making an accurate diagnosis also as I'd just twiddled the forks before noticing this
If they've not been looked at in that amount of time, definitely do it.
The early frames had no seals, and a poorly designed sheild on the bottom.
AFAIK, all the early frames came with tapered roller bearings.
Quote from: Slide Panda on August 29, 2012, 08:16:20 AM
Which is the way I'm leaning. I've been eyeing the speedy moto bearings for a while. Figure to rent the tool set with all the special gizmos for the job.
no need for renting tools man... do you have dremel? just cut the old bearing races off of the stem. then you use a pipe (yours will likely be smaller diameter than mine as you're on a pre-2002) and one of the old races to smack the new races/bearing on.
as for on the steering head tube itself, knock the old race out with a brass drift (from the top), and then cut a slot in it with your dremel as well. this will give it room to compress when you use it to smack the new race in. I started with a block of wood to get it flush, then switched to the slotted race to inset it slightly.
didn't need no fancy tools... just a hammer, a block of wood, a pipe, a dremel, and some elbow grease!
it's easy.
if it doesn't solve your problem, then at least it's taken care of.
Quote from: Speeddog on August 29, 2012, 08:21:21 AM
If they've not been looked at in that amount of time, definitely do it.
The early frames had no seals, and a poorly designed sheild on the bottom.
AFAIK, all the early frames came with tapered roller bearings.
The nut on the top also functions somewhat differently than the one on the newer frames.
They are tapered rollers.
I needed new ones at 18K.
everything I could have contributed has already been said above.
but a side note, my bike has a very minor clunk in the front when holding the brake and compressing the fork and/or trying to roll it front/back. my clunk though is actually a minor amount of play in the disc bushing things in the front brake rotor. its an extremely minor "clunk", but it's there.
I discovered this a week or so ago after noticing a consistent wobble in the front end at almost any speed. I thought it was my steering bearings. so I adjusted them, and sure enough they were a little loose, and adjusting them made the wobble go away. but the "clunk" was still there nad hadnt changed, so I started looking elsewhere, and sure enough the above is what I found
You can also get a little clunk from play in the fork bushings.