Well, after 26K miles on my 620, the clutch slip is getting worse so time for new plates and springs. The factory manual is calling for some special tools during this process. Anyone know if I actually need them? ??? Also I am going to order the plates and springs from monsterparts. Aside from oil and filter, is there anything additional that should be ordered (gaskets, orings, etc)? The factory manual isn't providing alot of details. Any tips/tricks/advice? Thanks
Hope this helps
About to do my wifes wet clutch so unless anyone has a better one
Ducatitech.com "How to" Wet Clutch Install (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFv6YIK3WyY#)
Thanks! [thumbsup]
I did my APTC with OE plates and springs. Not cheap, but works great.
The factory tools make everything really simple. (1) Special bolts to hold the slipper assembly together, and (2) fixture for immobilizing the hub during removal/install of the large nut. I'm sure you can make do without, but know that the wet clutches have a smaller diameter than dry clutches, so the usual billet basket tools won't work.
Take extra care to prep and properly secure the hub nut. They have a reputation for coming loose. Ducati calls for moly on the threads, but many use an appropriate loctite compound as insurance.
You'll need either threebond sealant or one of CA-Cycleworks nifty paper gaskets to reinstall the cover.
I think Ducati specifies new washers/bolts when replacing springs.
If you have some extra cash, now is a good time to do the Factory Pro shift detent.
When did CK go hippie on us??
BK
Quote from: BK_856er on September 16, 2012, 09:51:07 PM
The factory tools make everything really simple. (1) Special bolts to hold the slipper assembly together, and (2) fixture for immobilizing the hub during removal/install of the large nut. I'm sure you can make do without, but know that the wet clutches have a smaller diameter than dry clutches, so the usual billet basket tools won't work.
Take extra care to prep and properly secure the hub nut. They have a reputation for coming loose. Ducati calls for moly on the threads, but many use an appropriate loctite compound as insurance.
Looking at the video I am not sure why I would need to remove the hub/assembly at all? The tech pulls the cover, springs, pressure plate, then just takes the old disks and spacers off. Is there a reason to even mess with the hub nut?
Quote from: dark_duc on September 17, 2012, 09:12:56 AM
Looking at the video I am not sure why I would need to remove the hub/assembly at all? The tech pulls the cover, springs, pressure plate, then just takes the old disks and spacers off. Is there a reason to even mess with the hub nut?
That's not an APTC clutch in the video.
Disassembly/assembly of the APTC is a bit more involved.
Here's a couple videos.
These are from the manufacturer, Adige, it explains it fairly well, although the clutch they're working on isn't the Ducati unit.
APTC Video Assembly (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgYIIcWW3K4#)
APTC Video Installation (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKL-P9euKRk&feature=relmfu#)
Ahhh I see, thank you for clarifying. So back to these "special" tools, does anyone sell them for a reasonable price or could I work around them? I would prefer to do this job on my own but I don't want to get stuck either. I was hoping ducatitoolrental.com would have a kit but I only see a dry clutch one.
You can use some small bolts to hold the pack together, IIRC they're M3, 50mm long.
A bit hard to come by, I got them at the local model/hobby shop.
It's not mandatory to assemble the stack on the bench, as they've done it in the video.
But it's a lot easier.
Speeddog
excuse my ignorance so my wifes 695 is a slipper ?
So the vid I posted is not applicable to her bike ?
Looks like I have misguided the OP
oopps sorry
Twodogs your 695 should have the APTC clutch as well so no it won't be like the video you posted. Gonna call my local Duc shop today and get a quote on an OEM clutch pack as it looks like there has been some issues with the aftermarket ones.
Update:
My original issues started with clutch slippage at high speeds/RPMS while on heavy throttle. I would shift but would not see an RMP drop until backing off the gas a bit. Since it didn't happen frequently and normal riding was fine, I was going to live with it until my next oil change to switch back to my old oil.
Then last weekend, I switched levers to some shorty adjustables. For the screw that actuates the hydraulics I measured my old lever and made the new one match. I quickly found that the clutch was staying engaged. I backed the adjustment out two clicks and all seemed well. The next day I went on a 100 mile twisty ride and was fine until leaving the last stop. While leaving I noticed slippage throughout first and second gear but it went away. I rode to work the next morning with no issues. When I headed home the slippage was back with a fierceness and I pulled off the road and backed the adjustment out another two clicks (which happens to be fully out). It rode fine the rest of the way home and back to work today.
Now I am thinking maybe all my issues were just an adjustment problem both with the old and new levers. I searched and found references to 1-1.5 mm of clutch free play but am a bit confused as to where this is taken. I can't find anything in my manual on how to check/adjust and my forum search didn't turn anything up. Can anyone help?
At the lever. As long as the clutch disengages properly it is better to err on the side of too much play.
Alternative method: (works for stock levers) Turn screw out until you can lightly apply the lever
Back off adjuster screw. Tighten the adjuster screw by 1/8of a turn and then operate the clutch lever until you see a jet of hydraulic fluid in the
reservoir. Continue to operate the lever until the jet of hydraulic fluid no longer appears when the lever is pulled. This indicates that the compensating port has been completely closed by the master cylinder piston. Unscrew the adjuster screw by 3/4 of a tum.
Forgive my ignorance but still trying to find the area to measure the free play. As soon as pressure is applied to the lever, the "cup" of the adjuster is moving the piston as shown in the picture. Even if there was slop from the cup to the piston end you wouldn't be able to get in there to measure. I was then assuming I would measure at the lever pivot area but like I said, there seems to be nothing there. I am probably making this alot more complicated than it actually is [roll]
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r212/moore_clan/lever.jpg)
Quote from: dark_duc on September 17, 2012, 09:12:56 AM
Looking at the video I am not sure why I would need to remove the hub/assembly at all? The tech pulls the cover, springs, pressure plate, then just takes the old disks and spacers off. Is there a reason to even mess with the hub nut?
From your update sounds like maybe your clutch is OK and your lever needs adjusting.
With regard to the hub nut...these have been known to loosen up on the APTC systems. I found mine little more than finger tight. Good practice to retorque it while the cover is off to save some grief down the road.
BK
The lever should move 1-1.5 mm. before the piston moves.
Ok, like I said I have it backed out as far as I can. These are the eBay knock off levers so it doesn't surprise me. I'll put the stock lever back on tonight and recheck. Thanks again!