Need some insight if anyone might have it. Drive the ST to work this morning per usual.
got into town and hit a stop light and noticed the check engine light was on. Rev'd the bike
gently and light went off. as the RPM came back down it came on again. Drove to parking lot
that was a couple miles away and light stayed off. Got into parking lot and parked and light came
on again. Rev'd it again and it still stayed on. Turned the bike off and then tried to restart.
Nothing. Lights all light up and all but the check engine light stays lit and the starter just clicks softly.
Kinda like a dead battery. I just replaced the battery last Friday. Any ideas? I'm clueless. [bang]
Sounds like a charging problem.
Raux recently went through an issue with his ST2.
Thanks DP, I'm going to pull the plastic at lunch and also see if I can get an error code.
hoping for loose ground on the ECU or something easy.
Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 18, 2012, 08:52:16 AM
Thanks DP, I'm going to pull the plastic at lunch and also see if I can get an error code.
hoping for loose ground on the ECU or something easy.
Could just be a loose connection at the battery. [where's the praying smiley?]
well I checked the error code and it's 5.2 which I think it just low battery but I just put a new battery in the bike.
Any thoughts? Only the one error code.
your low batt can be caused by a charging issue. how many miles did you put on it between the new batt and now?
Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 18, 2012, 02:25:28 PM
well I checked the error code and it's 5.2 which I think it just low battery but I just put a new battery in the bike.
Any thoughts? Only the one error code.
Either it isn't charging, a loose connection at the battery or elsewhere, or a defective battery.
If you jump it and it runs after disconnecting the jumper cables, it's most likely charging...that would leave one of the other possibilities.
Don't run the vehicle jumping...just use it's battery.
Quote from: He Man on September 18, 2012, 02:48:01 PM
your low batt can be caused by a charging issue. how many miles did you put on it between the new batt and now?
Let's see Battery went on it thursday night so that would be 120 miles to work this morning before it died.
The old weak battery didn't make the eobd light come on even when it wouldn't turn over.
Quote from: ducpainter on September 18, 2012, 02:51:01 PM
Either it isn't charging, a loose connection at the battery or elsewhere, or a defective battery.
If you jump it and it runs after disconnecting the jumper cables, it's most likely charging...that would leave one of the other possibilities.
Don't run the vehicle jumping...just use it's battery.
Well I took the plastic off and checked over it and there isn't any obvious loose connections. I didn't trace back the main ground though.
Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 18, 2012, 03:07:12 PM
Let's see Battery went on it thursday night so that would be 120 miles to work this morning before it died.
The old weak battery didn't make the eobd light come on even when it wouldn't turn over.
That's interesting
Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 18, 2012, 03:10:08 PM
Well I took the plastic off and checked over it and there isn't any obvious loose connections. I didn't trace back the main ground though.
When you say checked...did you actually put a wrench on things?
Quote from: ducpainter on September 18, 2012, 03:34:42 PM
That's interestingWhen you say checked...did you actually put a wrench on things?
No I'm at work and just did a "wiggle" test.
Going to jump it and test the charging system after work. then
charge it up and tomorrow do a load test and see where it goes from there.
Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 18, 2012, 03:42:09 PM
No I'm at work and just did a "wiggle" test.
Going to jump it and test the charging system after work. then
charge it up and tomorrow do a load test and see where it goes from there.
Plenty of info on the forum...
We're here to help. [thumbsup]
Alright, so I got the battery charged and put it on the bike last night and hooked the Multimeter up.
battery showed 13.4v, started the bike and it didn't go below about 10.8v.
Bike running at 2000rpm showed 12.65v, rev'd to 5000rpm showed 12.67v so it's not charging.
tested the positive lead of the RR and got .026v, then tested the neg lead and got .256v. According to that the neg lead
of the RR isn't grounded. I traced back the ground and all the wires are good and have clean connections.
Main ground is tight as well. So, based on this could the ground from the connectors to the RR be bad or within the RR itself?
I had similar issues like said before.
I actually did have chargning at one point it seemed.
RR was replaced
Battery sat about 2 weeks til i put the plastics back on
went for a ride (about a full tanks worth)
then noticed stuttering and RPMs drops on the ride
stopped for a rest
turned off bike
then nothing.. wouldn't start back up.
I got it push started (I pushed seanny101 dropped clutch) and was able to ALMOST get home. about 20km short.
definitely not charging.
had brand new battery, brand new RR... needs a stator.
now whether the RR went bad first (charge light on was how I noticed a problem) and then killed the stator
or the stator was always the problem I don't know
Good test procedure here... http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf (http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf)
If you suspect a bad ground try an external ground and see what happens.
There is also a chart on the US site that is my preference, even though they make no mention of beer.
http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf (http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf)
Thanks Howie, that was actually the PDF that I used to trouble shoot it. Though the other tells how to actually test the RR.
Going to do that tonight.
Well over the weekend I pulled the old RR out and replaced it and hardwired it in to avoid burnt connections etc in the future.
I started the bike and got 12.5v at idle and 12.6 at 5000rpm. It's now the stator or something else I guess.
Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 24, 2012, 10:31:05 AM
Well over the weekend I pulled the old RR out and replaced it and hardwired it in to avoid burnt connections etc in the future.
I started the bike and got 12.5v at idle and 12.6 at 5000rpm. It's now the stator or something else I guess.
Probably the stator...
but first I'd ohm out the wiring from the stator. It's
remotely possible it's damaged where it exits the cases.
Roger that. I don't know when I'll get to this now. Trying to fix an electrical gremlin in the car too and the weather here
can change to winter at anytime now. Car is more important I guess at this point though it pains me to say that.
I've got the diagnostic flow chart and I'll work through that and see what I find. Thanks for the insight. I appreciate everyone's help
and advise.
If you can get it started, check the AC voltage on the alternator output.
IIRC, should be at least 20 VAC at 2k rpm, and 70+ at 5k rpm.
I had issues with my 900 charging a couple of years ago. Howies Electrosport link is brilliant. The Stator test is very quick and easy. As it says measure the three phases and all should be equal and >50v. Mine were all 55v at idle.
The RR tests in Howies link are detailed and definitive. I did these including the diode test and the results proved the RR was at fault. A new Shindengen and all has been good since. I also hard wired the new RR as the connectors looked pretty bad.
Hope you find the problem and are up and running again soon.