My bikes pissing me off big time lately. The fuel pump will not whir when ignitions on. I took it out and checked all grounds and the pump itself. Nothing wrong so I put it back in, cranked up right after put back in. Next morning nothing. Everything else works but the pump.
It's not the fuel pump
It's not the relay
It's not the fuses
What is it?? Pisses me off I got an $8000 bike I can't even fix or ride.
Weak battery?
Not battery eiether, replaced 7 months ago
How did you check the pump, relay and fuses?
Does the engine turn when you hit the start button?
With a dmm, engine spins very strong. No start tho
If you have power to the pump brown/white wire at connector then the problem is either the pump, the wiring between the connector and the pump or the pump itself.
I had a similar issue on a friends monster and it was bad wiring between the connector and the pump. Sometimes it would make contact, sometimes it wouldn't. We removed the old silicone (Where the wires feed into the module), fixed the bad wire, and re-siliconed.
had this issue a couple of weeks ago. problem was the fuel pump connection underneath the epoxy on the inside of the tank.
i removed the epoxy which was soft (not normal) , i then resoldered the wire and filled the cup with jb weld epoxy. best way to make sure this is the problem is to use an ohm-meter and measure the resistance between the connector on the outside of the tank to the pump connector itself(inside tank on motor). do both wires and see if you have a bad connection.
there must be a manufacture defect because i heard of many people having this problem
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u662/scaramanga3/IMG_20120927_160749_zpsf61e6378.jpg)
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u662/scaramanga3/IMG_20120927_161849_zps11d42e4a.jpg)
be carefull , the stuff that the wire is potted in is not silicone but epoxy.
It is the epoxy sealant, I suspect ethanol is the culprit here, I've got to stop going to shell gas. If it is epoxy please give me a good brand epoxy sealant that's ethanol resistant and a step by step inscruction to repair the seal. Cause I really don't want to screw up a $2,000 fuel sending unit.
Thanks!
nick
its crazy how expensive these units are!!!
first you need to make sure this is really the problem. with key OFF and then ON you should hear the fuel pump whirr for about 3 seconds and then stop. If it doesn't then procede to troubleshoot the pump.disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the pump situated under the seat.its a connector with 4 wires.with the negative lead of a voltmeter connected to the ground of the battery procede to connect the red lead of your voltmeter to the brown/white wire(use a paperclip inserted in the connector, make sure not to short it to the body!) now when you turn the key on you should measure at least 12 volts for a couple of seconds.if you do then everything is good up to this point(relay, ignition switch etc..)
reconnect harness .remove fuel pump unit and disconnect the red wire from the pump motor. place the red test lead to this disconnected wire. MAKE SURE TANK IS AWAY AND AND THERE ARE NO TRACES OF FUEL AROUND. any spark may give you some big headaches. turn key on and look for the same 12 volts as before. if no voltage then problem lies between harness connector and red wire you disconnected from the motor.
i used jb weld professional
http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-pro/ (http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-pro/)
just scrape away the existing epoxy, if its like mine its mushy and easy to do.after degreasing with an electrical contact cleaner ,resolder red wire. re-pot the wires with your fresh epoxy and let sit for 2 days.
put key in and go. at the end of next season i'll open mine up again and see if the epoxy is resisting the ethanol. gotta do it anyways to change the fuel filter.
good luck
How did you remove the epoxy cleanly?
Also, I believe JB Weld is NOT fuel resistant. Have you had problems with it leaking?
I've used jb weld to repair fuel tanks on small equipment..
It works as claimed by the manufacturer... http://www.jbweld.com/faqs/ (http://www.jbweld.com/faqs/)
iltl32
Just take it apart and you'll see that the existing epoxy will probably fall apart with little effort.
I used jb weld also but i let it dry for a couple of days making sure that it was fully cured.
I'm curious to find out how nick made out.
Man, is everyone having this problem all at the same time?! Crazy. My S2R1000 has been doing it intermittently for the last several months. It's getting worse. I plan to crack open the tank soon and do the fix. I wonder if there's a way to merge some of these many threads describing the same problem.
So, I just started this project on my s2r1k. How is everbody's holding up?
Mine is still working well but if i where you i would go with the ca cycleworks kit. If it was out at the time, i would have purchased it for sure.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=61306.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=61306.0)
Thanks for the heads up. I am waiting for the epoxy to settle up now. Everything charges right up. I am so glad to see that all I had to do was re-solder the wires and it was good to go!