hi! I am doing the oil changes since the piece of ..... of my dealer did an awful job last time. So please PLAIN and SIMPLE 10W-40 or 20W-50 and please DO NOT refer me to the tech article over the viscosity etc, I already read it and I am more confused now than before! I really don't know which brand or viscosity my current oil is, have no manual either, so a rock-simple advice would do, thank you!
Oh yes, some facts, I live in a tropical country, ride between 2-3 hours a day always between 80-130 km/h most of the time in trafic, air is not that polluted here, yet, and weather is around 20-24C all year long, I ride about 1000 kms monthly, no oil cooler installed, yet, and last but not least I ride during the day, almost never at night...
Thank you!
any advice on how to change it would be appreciated too! [coffee]
I run 10W-40 full synthetic in my small case, wet clutch monster. It has been pretty happy for 37k miles (~60k kms).
Any 10W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
I like Amsoil 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. If not available Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 Synthetic. I am not sure what is available in your country I am in the US.
As for How to change the oil..
Ducatitech.com "HowTo" Ducati Oil Change (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqiOrzM4nvA#)
I use 10W-40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. I suggest you make your choice of viscosity based on the guide in the owner's manual. Does the bike need to start on a 20oF day? If so, clearly you want 10W-40. Live in the a super hot jungle with lots of traffic? 20W-50. Anything between? Not so important.
Quote from: howie on November 01, 2012, 05:47:39 AM
Live in the a super hot jungle with lots of traffic? 20W-50. Anything between? Not so important.
The OP stated they live in a tropical country, where it gets no cooler than 20C (68F). And if it doesn't get any hotter than 24 I'd say 10w-40 - but as noted your owners manual will have temp ranges listed. All that being said, I always run the Mobil 1 moto 10w-40 in my 900 and it gets pretty hot here (Mid Atlantic US) in the summer. If I hit traffic, I have pulled off for a cool down.
Thank you everyone, just one childish question: my bike is a 4T or 2T ? sorry I really don't know, REALLY! :-[ thank you!!!
It is 4T
4T = 4 stroke = gas and oil separate
2T = 2 stroke = gas oil mixture for fuel (think smaller dirt bikes, chainsaws, some weed wackers, ect..)
Quote from: cmejia1978 on November 01, 2012, 08:02:37 AM
Thank you everyone, just one childish question: my bike is a 4T or 2T ? sorry I really don't know, REALLY! :-[ thank you!!!
Almost every bike, at least here in US is a 4 stroke. 4T
They are not in the us.... But all monsters are 4 stroke.
Quote from: Slide Panda on November 01, 2012, 09:51:24 AM
They are not in the us.... But all monsters are 4 stroke.
Sorry, almost all Street Legal bikes are 4T? :)
Doesn't prohibit me from riding my buddy's nsr 250 down the street. [evil]
thank you all for the clarification, ok, last question, how many quarts do I buy??
4.
Bike will take 3 and a fraction
thank you so much Panda and all of you for the little tech help, today is holliday in my country but will begin to drain oil right away, tomorrow will buy oil! thank u! [thumbsup]
oh oh oh, I have oil leaks, this is the reason why I am doing the oil change, my dealer does not have gasket kits but does everything with silicone, stupid, anyway... does anybody know where I could buy a gasket and seal kit? Thanks! [beer]
There are at least 3 major surfaces that has no gasket installed at the factory.
None of the vertical case joints use a gasket, but are sealed with a sealer...not necessarily silicone.
Where is it leaking?
let me take some pics... one sec... [thumbsup]
a couple of weeks ago, when the oil level was optimal and I stopped, went off the bike, I could find a couple of minutes later, 1 or 2 drops of oil, now, because the level is on the low line of the right cover I no longer find any drops, meaning that the leak has to be in the upper section, I think... please advice! [popcorn]
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8145765421_730daa7a57_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8145762691_c0795dcb0b_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8194/8145794086_134982be70_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8145763677_97258aa7d5_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8333/8145764115_d26dc57804_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8145764765_3c161c9d77_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8145796282_598f00b327_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8145765421_730daa7a57_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8466/8145796924_4efb9ba359_z.jpg)
Clean it with degreaser, dry it, then spray some aerosol foot powder around that case joint. The leak will be evident.
Your crankcase breather might be leaking also. Use the same technique to find that leak.
The left side doesn't seem to be leaking too badly, but you can check it. Same with the temp sensor in the valve cover.
All this leaking happened since it was at the dealer?
ca-cycle works sells gaskets for the 2 side covers. If you use one on the left cover you need to re-gap the ignition sensor
I took it over half a dozen times to the dealer as "warranty" because I took her (of course is a SHE, my bike ;) ) because of leaks, then I stop taking her because I wasted 2 days off my bike and then 3 days after, the leak was there again! ok, will do what you say ducpainter! Thanks, will do the oil change, degrease, and powder (if I don't have aerosol will just plain powder do the trick? ) thank you! oh yes how do I stop the leaking? silicone or gaskets or what? thanks!
Some people like the gaskets, and some prefer the sealer. On the EFI bikes like yours you would need to mess with the shimming of the ignition sensor on the left cover if you use a gasket
I'd get some 3 Bond sealer (same as Ducati Bond) and do it that way. Silicone isn't what's used at the factory.
It's your call.
It might be tough to get dry powder to stick to the cases.
Be careful for that oil leak, worst case scenario is you leak so much that it reaches the tire, upon rotation, and take you to a low slide as you are a right hand corner out of a major interstate. [bang]
also an alternate solution for the sealer...any VW or Audi dealer...look for/ask for pt# D176404A2 sealer...is used for mating aluminum oil pan and engine block surfaces...when I had to reseal the sidecase on my old '01M900ie....it was exactly what the Dr ordered...there is enough in a tube to reseal probably 4-6 Ducati motors easy....the MSRP on it is $27.50, so it isn't cheap...but it is the correct and easily attainable sealer!
Quote from: zooom on November 02, 2012, 05:48:06 AM
also an alternate solution for the sealer...any VW or Audi dealer...look for/ask for pt# D176404A2 sealer...is used for mating aluminum oil pan and engine block surfaces...when I had to reseal the sidecase on my old '01M900ie....it was exactly what the Dr ordered...there is enough in a tube to reseal probably 4-6 Ducati motors easy....the MSRP on it is $27.50, so it isn't cheap...but it is the correct and easily attainable sealer!
That helps a lot actually, ive been using a lot of sealers but most of them still finds a way to leak it out.
Thank you for all the tips and info!
Oh, by the way I found the sealer on ebay!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Oil-Pan-Sealant-D176404A2-/250764923622 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Oil-Pan-Sealant-D176404A2-/250764923622)
Quote from: cmejia1978 on November 08, 2012, 04:47:37 PM
Thank you for all the tips and info!
Oh, by the way I found the sealer on ebay!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Oil-Pan-Sealant-D176404A2-/250764923622 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Oil-Pan-Sealant-D176404A2-/250764923622)
which after $4 shipping saves you about $2 but costs you how much time?...just playin devils advocate and asking...sometimes the time you save is worthwhile for the small extra you might pay to support a brick and mortor location....
Quote from: cmejia1978 on November 01, 2012, 03:30:28 PM
(if I don't have aerosol will just plain powder do the trick? ) thank you! oh yes how do I stop the leaking? silicone or gaskets or what? thanks!
The aerosol will stick, plain won't. Some spray deodorants like the US brand Arrid (at least older formulations), are very powdery and work well for this task.
First step is to find the source. On occasion, it's something easy like cleaning the suface where the oil filter gasket seats that doesn't need more than a clean and properly installed filter.
Man if I were in the US would be my first choice to go to the dealer, but here in Guatemala, Central AMerica, the Audi/VW dealer is a sh%t... won't sell that product! [bang]
Quote from: zooom on November 09, 2012, 08:23:00 AM
which after $4 shipping saves you about $2 but costs you how much time?...just playin devils advocate and asking...sometimes the time you save is worthwhile for the small extra you might pay to support a brick and mortor location....
your local vw/audi dealer doesnt need any help and for $4 shiiping it would cost me more to drive there and back
you could always buy 3bond and support your local small bike shop which is prob run by a family man
Since you don't have an oil cooler installed. Check the two bolts that are plugging where the oil lines would be. They might need to be tightened/torqued to spec.
After you clean everything up of course.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8145763677_97258aa7d5_z.jpg)
In the picture above they are the two hex head bolts, one on top of the other between the starter wire and the starter (black soda can looking thing with the wire coming out of it)
thank you, finally I know about the soda can!! [laugh] man I almost mod that "ugly unnecessary thing" [thumbsup]
Quote from: J5 on November 11, 2012, 06:55:14 PM
your local vw/audi dealer doesnt need any help and for $4 shiiping it would cost me more to drive there and back
you could always buy 3bond and support your local small bike shop which is prob run by a family man
And the "special" stuff from the VW/Audi dealer is probably just 3Bond with a different label.