I want to remove the rear shock for either rebuild or replacement.
Currently have the rear end suspended from the ceiling in the shed via the grab rails.
Tank removed.
Trying to access hole through swingarm to undo bottom bolt.
It appears to me as though I would have to remove peg hanger as well as brakes to access the hole with allen key.
It looks as though I would be able to access the bolt from underneath with an allen head and ratchet.
Is this a possibility and if so what size allen head is the bolt?
I don't have a full set of allen sockets but will buy the correct size one if this would work
thanks
garryc
If it's like my M695, you'll likely need to go through that hole. Not much room between the head of the bolt and the swingarm, especially after the bolt is partially removed. It might also take some torque to break that bolt free, so getting crafty and slipping in a cut off allen key with a box-end wrench attached is probably a no-go. Not too much trouble to remove the rearset (don't disconect the rear brake master hoses). I think the allen size is 8mm, but you can verify with similar fasteners in the area, such as the upper shock bolt. Be prepared to support the rear wheel.
BK
Thanks BK,
Shock successfully removed as per your suggestion.
When I got it out the preload was wound up to the max and almost locked solid.
Took some encouraging to get it wound off
Now the next step do i have the sachs rebuilt and resprung or replace it with ???
ohlins looks a bit too expensive
If the preload was wound all the way, and you don't think the shock is blown, you might just try it with a reasonable preload setting - the Sachs isn't the fanciest on the planet, and a Penske or Ohlins at the limits will be night and day in comparison, but the Sachs isn't a bad damper under most use cases. I ran the OEM one on mine hard for years without the rear-end getting skittish, maybe not always the most comfortable for my aging spine, but at least in total control.
If you're set on something fancier (who wouldn't be ;) ) and on a budget, you might try contacting Dan Kyle Racing or one of the other big suspension shops and see if they've got a used Ohlins sized right for the 600 they'd be willing to respring and revalve for your weight at a reasonable cost
If the chrome on the rod is bad you will need to buy a new shock.
Howie raises a good point - AFAIK the OEM Sachs aren't the most rebuildable units on the planet, if it's leaking at all or there's any marring or pitting on the chrome rod, it's toast, write it off... Same for the Showas... So time to go straight to an Ohlin's, Penske, WP, or something ;D
Also, if it is in good shape and you do reuse it, after you adjust the preload to get the sag right for your weight don't forget to adjust the damping too. With high preload whoever it was using it probably either added damping to control oscillation or reduced it to control ride, so set right it'll need to change one way or another...
No leaks or pitting on the shaft.
Bump stop no longer presentthough as it fell apart.
I bought a used shock but it is for a 620 and is to short for a hooped setup.
The spring looks the same so thinking I might just swap the spring.
Also I managed to source a set of NEW adjustable showa forks.
Fully geared up but carrying no luggage I am about 210lbs.
Should I get the showas resprung for weight before I fit them
thanks
At 210 lbs, yes, you need forks and shock resprung.
Shock can be depressurized, eye unscrewed, and a new bump stop fitted.
And then a spring appropriate for you installed.
Kind of a lot of money for what you get in the end.
Base model Ohlins (single adjustable) can be had for ~$550.