Ducati Monster Forum

First post here on the forum, I know it probably has been discussed before but I haven't been able to find much information on the no rise side.. I basically have ordered the parts I think are needed for the project, I might run into a few difficulties that I'm surely unaware of, so I'm just asking anyone knowledgeable to warn me of these involved with solely the no rise clip ons (I'm 6'3 so please refrain from telling me it will be too uncomfortable). Also I was wondering about the mirrors, will the resovoir spacer kit replace the mirror mounts? Requiring me to buy barend mirrors (crg lanesplitter).. or will I be able to keep the mounts as the spacer will fit in the middle or some sort and purchase some rizoma mirrors? I would really like to make this happen.. I am just a bit lost though.

The parts I have on order are as follows:

Driven 50mm Clip ons
Speedymoto top triple
Resovoir spacer set from Monsterparts

Thank you in advance for any replies.

Welcome  [thumbsup]

Depends if your Driven clipons are front mount or side mount.... you may run into some interference issues with the headlight. 

Also, mounting the stock headlight with your Speedymoto top triple isnt difficult, but its not plug 'n' play either.... you may be interested in this  >>  http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=21407.msg447867#msg447867 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=21407.msg447867#msg447867)  <<  And yes, I know you're not interested in riser-clipons, but the top triple headlight mounting will be the same  :).

Your stock mirror mounts can be retained, the reservoir spacers fit between the two stock mounting parts.

Yep, that pretty much covers it all.  One thing about the spacers, they mess with your clutch throw...being 6'3" you most likely wont have an issue.  When I did it, I adjusted my lever in to where it was comfortable...and then the neutral interlock switch no longer made, so if I stall, I have to muck around finding neutral in traffic.

(Incidentally, this winters projects will have me with a set of ASV C5 levers looking for a new home.  Black w/ red adjustes, full legnth...Just saying  [thumbsup])

Just a heads up about the profile of the two top triples...

 - your factory triple is curved, which means it grips the fork lower than the SpeedyMoto will. That's probably not an issue on the 696 as it seems to have available fork tube space.

IMO - at your (and my) height, try to mount the mirrors high and forward (easier with new adjustable ones) to minimize the head movement required to look in the mirrors.

Good luck - it's going to feel very different, but is a good mod [thumbsup]

IF you can replace the driven bars with woodcraft bars, woodcraft has a 1" longer bar that will fit the stock coffin masters with no spacer.

Wow! Thanks for the welcome and speedy replies, can't even begin to express my thanks. You guys have cleared everything up as I was still in the dark on a couple of things.. I have ordered the front mount clip ons from driven so that should go well, and if for some reason I end up with an issue with the spacers I can definitely consider woodcraft. I kinda figured I'd hit the headlight issue, as for the mirrors and levers that should go fine too I already have a set of ASV shortys and also ran into the neutral killswitch issue, kind of annoying though my fingers are long enough to adjust the clicker far enough outward to only just click it with the clutch fully pulled in, leaving the tips of my fingers to work the clutch.. but this hopefully with the spacers will be solved by a couple of mm? lol. Might try get a set of rizoma circuit 851's now that I'm not stuck with barends. I ride in alot of heavy traffic but alot for fun too so I was a little bit discouraged on them altough the CRG LS looked pretty sweet.

Thanks so much guys, Hope you had a great Christmas/holidays and enjoy the new year to come. Will let you know how it goes and post up some pics of the install, cheers!

I have the CRG Arrow bar ends, both with clipons and the factory bent bars I was able to split lanes with out any issue. (most of the time  :-\)  They are actually a lot more clear and stable too, the micky mouse ears had a tendancy of vibrating like mad at speed, and also, I dont particularly care to stare at my shoulders all the time.

I never noticed they could be folded in, they definitely look great. Do you think that these type of mirrors would limit the steering even more? Considering I will probably loose quite a bit with no rise depending on the sweep? Also would you happen to know if it is possible to keep the headlight fairing in place once everything's installed? If not its a nice oppurtunity to convert to carbon on the dash.

Speaking from the woodcraft 3" bars that I currently have. (using the monsterparts coffin spacers) Bikini fairing hits the brake and clutch banjo bolts.  if you move them out and dont use the coffin spacers, you might be able to swing it.  no issues at all with the mirrors as far as turning radius, but you will lose a little by going to the clipons since you have to adjust the steering stops out to prevent contact with the tank.

zero rise doesn't limit the steering as much as they come back below the tank line, even with the frame

So are you guys basically saying I wont lose as much steering as someone using a rise set? If so great! I thought It would limit it further using the no rise.

Ok all of the parts are on their way ;D So now its time think about the installing procedure.. Is it worth having a shop do it? The most I've ever done is replaced regular handlebars to drag bars on a vtr250 and a slip on exhaust. What will I need to do this? tools, stands or anything.. I'd rather do it myself as I have the time and would be a great opportunity to get to know a little bit more about my bike.

Again thanks in advance for any replies.

actually this is a pretty easy procedure.
but you might want to pick up a small torque wrench.

Awesome! Does the front end actually need to be suspended off the ground?

not off the ground, but you can eliminate some of the flex by putting the bike on a rear stand and a lift under the motor if you don't have an under the triple front lift.
but i've done it a couple of time with the bike just on a rear stand.
the bottom triple keeps the forks aligned and as long as you aren't sitting on the bike they will hold the forks fine.

you may need a rubber mallet to convince the top triple off, but no damage will occur.

dont forgot the bolt on the center of the top triple. I loosen that one first as you have to turn the bars to get to it.

the headlight is just the two lower nuts on the lower triple and then you lift it off the top triple rubber mounts. the speedymoto probably needs those parts, so i would mount them on it before installing it on the bike. I hate working upside down.

for the controls you'll need to decide to drill the bars or file off the control nubs. I filed and then use grip tape or electrical tape to stop them from spinning on the bars. it's not perfect but I didn't want to screw up the drilling (and IMO putting holes in bars that are aluminum and have all your forward weight on them is asking for trouble)

when remounting the top triple you may find the fork a bike offcenter, that's ok, just use a little leverage to help them center on the holes and then slide (encourage with mallet) the triple down. (don't forget to open the clamps a bit, test them individually first)

it's pretty straight forward stuff.

don't tighten the clipons/controls until you have the top triple securely mounted and you can sit on the bike again.
it helps to have a friend. you have the bike on the rear stand. you sit on the bike like you are riding and find the most comfortable position for everything. Then your friend tightens them in place. after that turn the bars all the way left and right and adjust your steering stops on the lower triple.

You're brilliant, thanks for that I really do appreciate it.. I think I will go with what you did and file down the control nubs,  it seems easier to get right, and I will probably fiddle around with the sweep a bit. Doesn't seem like such a daunting task now, cheers.

But.... when you've turned the bars to access the centre bolt.... once you begin backing out that bolt, do so completely and do not turn the steering until you have that bolt out and in your hand.

In the past - also for fear of stuffing up with the drill - I've gone with the file-off-the-nubs method too, but I didnt find it entirely satisfactory.  So I prefer the result you get from leaving the nubs in place and drilling the bars (aluminium or not) - measure 1500 times and drill only once (well twice actually).  You can mark the nubs with white-out or white texta to get a clue if your measured drill target is in the right spot.

Note taken, thanks very much you seem to really know everything about this [bow_down]

that bolt is a pregnant dog if your steering stops are set too short, so be sure to insert it BEFORE setting the clipons.
I also find a wooden wedge helps loosen up the clamps during removal.

and good point about the nubs. I do find I have to readjust occasionally.

Compared to those around here who know MUCH, I know 2/3s of sweet FA  8)

I've made mistakes in that past that we both can learn from is all ;).

and half those mistakes we've learned from each other

[laugh] [beer] [thumbsup]

Thanks guys, Hopefully I won't make any myself ;D

Im about to go and grab a new set of tools, just a torque wrench and some hex sockets.. I'm thinking of a 3/8" drive 19-110nm wrench, what are all of the sizes and torque settings needed for the clip on install? Are they higher than this? I have absolutely no clue on the sizes either. I'm gonna change the oil right after the install too and the wrench im thinking will do that fine.. although those sizes probably wont be hard to find would you be able to state these? Sorry if my stupidity offends anyone.. lol.

Thanks in advance.

I use the "tighten until stripped, back off one quarter turn" mentality far more often than I should.  The 3/8" drive should be fine for MOST stuff on your duc, I think the single sided swingarm bikes have a higher torque requirement than that thing will put out for the big hub nuts.  (not something you have to worry about obviously)  I have the same wrench your describing (click type) and its served me well until I tried to use it on the lug bolts on my car and it had too low a range.  (Heres a finer note about the range of the wrench...you should only be using your wrench in the middle of the wrenches range.  So if you need to torque something to 80lbft, you should be using a wrench with a working range of say 50-150lbft.  This is the standard we are held to at my work, but obviously in the home garage we dont have access to 40 different range wrenches so we can have the perfect fit..)
Looking back I think I would have bought the 1/2" drive model.  Just my $0.02

Here are the things I really worry about with torque specs:
-Anything with a bearing load. (front wheel, the big center nut on the triple...which you wont have to touch on your swap)
-Anything requring an evenly and precisely destributed load. (clutch pressure plate, brake caliper, brake rotor, etc)
-Anything with a gasket sealing surface. (engine covers etc)
-Anything that common sense says "this is probably life support related"


...other than that I seldom take the torque wrench out of the case...
The right answer is, torque everythign to the factory spec...but I just feel thats a little overkill in many situations.  (body panels, mirrors, even my clipons get blue thread locker and tightened by feel)

Its certainly a good tool to own, and by no means a bad way to spend the money!


(There you go, that should deflect any of the offense from your question to my answer!  And thats not stupidity! [laugh] [thumbsup])

I'll see if I can cut and paste the tq numbers for the triples later.

Thanks for the time took in explaining this, I got the 3/8 today with many hex bits so I'm sorted toolwise for the clip on conversion.. But later found out the 14mm hex bit for the oil change comes only in the 1/2 drive model so I'm going to grab one of them too and order a 14mm bit for it. They aren't the most pricey ones so I'm hoping they're still accurate enough (about$100aud) Just waiting on the parts to be delivered now and I can get started ;D


Thank you, that would be very helpful.

You have a few options here as well.  If you want to use your torque wrench with a standard hex bolt and dont have a 3/8" socket to fit, you can use a crows foot if your not afraid of doing a little math to compensate for the offset. 

Heres the math...(pretty frightening, I know  [thumbsup])
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx (http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx)

Heres what your setup would look like (in the case described)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s52/badrufus/Z_CrowsFoot_3.jpg)



NOW, even simpler, if you have an internal drive fastner (like a socket head cap screw) that you cant find a 3/8" drive hex driver for...get a 1/2" drive model and a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor.  That should run you all of about $9.  AND, you dont have to do any math!

Another note on torque wrenches, if you picke dup the click type (which ill assume you did) make sure you unwind it every time you put it away.  Torque wrenches are calibrated tools so if you use it as a breaker bar, youll throw off the calibration. If you store it with the internal spring loaded, youll throw off the calibration. You get the idea.  Also keep in mind, every single time you use it, you work the spring, meaning you change the calibration just a hair.  Not something we worry about for 99% of the work we do in our garages, but if you use it frequently, (a few bolts a day, every day) you should be getting it re calibrated after probably 6 months...(people have their own thoughts on how often you need to recal, but the longer you go, the farther off youll be when you think your applying a specific torque.) 

Also on torquing fastners,  often times the manufacturer will spec a range...not a single number.  This is why I am a little loose on what Im careful to torque.  Its more important that your torque fastners CONSISTANTLY than it is to nail a specific number.  (when you have multiple fastners on a single "pressure plane" ill call it.  so head bolts, crank shaft main bearing caps, wheel lug nuts...you get my drift)  Blue thread locker and the fastner good and snug is more often than not, perfectly adequate.  (like mirrors...certainly torque your oil plug if you like [thumbsup])

Thanks for the extra info! I made sure I read every word in the literature supplied with the wrench ;D One thing though, it came at its lowest setting as soon as I opened it I stupidly turned the handle the wrong way and it turned past its lowest setting, I immediately realised and put it back to around 15nm I've heard it can ruin it somehow, my grandfather said it will be fine but I am unsure, would this have stuffed it? and if need be the math can be done no worries, I'm a student pilot. Another thing, I've seen people mentioning methods checking the accuracy at home using a vice, wire and a weight.. is it really worth taking to a shop? or can you, after some use check the calibration level at home, compare the the difference and just compensate that difference for every use? or is it much more complex than that lol? Cheers again..

I highly doubt you damaged it.

As for cal, I suppose that would work, and you could argue that you could dyno your bikes rear wheel horsepower the same way, but I wouldnt do it.  Of course, I can cheat...weve got a bench top calibrator at work so I just bring my wrech in and check it from time to time, I havent needed to send it out yet..

TealCandy,

you have an email from me

Would like to thank you again on here, just incase you didn't get the reply to your email. Means alot to me, you guys have helped me with everything!

[Dolph]

We can do it again. Do you have more money?

 [cheeky]

 [laugh]

Ok everyone I got the speedy triple, headlight and dash back on.. The dash seems high but will fit clip ons with the bikini fairing as is so maybe it being high isnt too bad.. as for the headlight issue.. I have no idea if I ran into it or not, I replaced everything with the speedy triple and everything seemed fine, still dont have the clip ons yet though coming in the post.. The headlight seemed to point at the right angle. Am i missing something? the only thing i thought was a tad odd is where you slide the headlight assy into the little mounting rods coming out of the triple there is nothing stopping the headlight slipping out except the original headlight mounts on either side of the lower triple but that does seem secure enough.. Just think its gone "too" well to be right, If need be can post up many pictures.

Thanks for any replies.

are the clipons two or one piece?
Did you already fit them on the forks if they are one piece? If not, and if you are mounting below the triple, guess what...

The headlight/dash problem can come with the clipon mounts as depending on the make can contact the headlight/dash. actually the brake/clutch lines/bolts can.

The headlight sliding into the top mounts and just the two lower bolts holding it are correct.

Thanks Raux, they are the 3 peice from woodcraft luckily (forgot to mention I decided to go for the woodcraft 3 peice after belissimoto was out of stock of Driven!) The screen can go to be honest or If need be, cut.. thought I was gonna get away with this one [evil] And thanks for clearing up the headlight assy question, thought I might have missed something. Only a few more days until I receive the clip ons (hopefully) then a few days later an Xcentrikperformance belly pan ;D

So I'm waiting around for the woodcrafts to be delivered admiring photos of project bikes on here.. and noticed something, when I installed the triple I torqued both fork clamps to the setting described but couldn't get the allen key head all the way in on the steering headnut mount, I did it at what I thought was good enough, but the gap is about 3.5-4mm where the bolt pinches the triple, the fork clamps at 14nm leave about 1.5-2mm if my judgement is correct (only took a quick squiz). I did take the steering stop screws out for some more room, but only gave me enough to get the allen key in at a slight angle. If I were to take the tank peices off would it eliminate this issue im having? I would really like to torque this screw! And I'm an insomniac with nothing to do!

Thanks.

I think I know what your describing.  Try taking off the key guard piece.  (should be the plastic bit held on with 2x 10mm acorn nuts.)  that might give you a little more approach angle on that bolt.  if that doesnt work then go for the left side tank covor.

A WORD OF CAUTION!  if you havent taken your tank covers off before, be carefull!  take off the top plastic trim piece first, make sure you get all the screws, then the screw at the bottom of the tank cover, and the one at the back under the corner of the seat.  NOW!  dont try to pull the tank cover up or bend it, you need to slide it toward the front of the bike before it will come off.  or in my case it comes right off because i snapped off the little tabs that hold it in place  [bang]

Thanks alot for the advice, I originally took the piece you are describing off and that allowed me to get at it from an angle. Ill take the tank off today It should leave plenty of room, I'll also keep in mind the removal, I can imagine myself doing exactly what you stated, cheers for the warning ;D

So I got the clip ons under the triple, mounted the left side fine, but ended up stripping the allen key head of the bolt mounting to the fork and had to go down to the local hardware store to grab another, luckily it fit well, but is a screwdriver head. I'm up to getting all the controls on, and have so far experimented with the brake and clutch, it seems I was putting alot of stress on the banjo bolts (mentioned on another thread, different monster) I found by rotating them upwards, like stated in that thread they seemed much more comfortable. Will this pose any problems? The banjos leaked when I undid them to turn upwards, but tightened them back and now no leaks, Im thinking of drilling for the throttle and grinding off the nubs for the electric controls. Just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything as I'm far from a mechanic. Cheers.

Open all images in a new tab/page, not really sure on how to do this photo thing.

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8384829161/in/photostream)

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8384827533/in/photostream)

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8384826869/in/photostream)

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8385908756/in/photostream)

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8384823083/in/photostream)

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8385905570/in/photostream)
steering lock still functional

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/8384824117/in/photostream)
Bolt replacing original woodcraft one, temporary fix for now would still like an original.

Or just open my flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92238455@N05/)

Picture posting  http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?www;board=18 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?www;board=18)

I think an allen bolt is a good idea - you need to be able to torque it better than with a screw driver.

If you had leakage at the banjos it's a very good chance some air got into the brake and clutch systems.
Don't gamble with that kind of issue - have them bled  [thumbsup]

Thanks, I will definitely send the bike in for a service as soon as I'm able to ride (3 more weeks :D) and have everything looked over.

Ok lets try this again with some better pictures.. Mirrors can wait.. holidays have destroyed my wallet. Another big thanks to the few who took time in helping me.

(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/IMG_1566_zps0a60f7a9.jpg)
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/IMG_1569_zpsfe0727f2.jpg)
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/IMG_1571_zps6e1ec7dc.jpg)
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/IMG_1572_zpsa99e8c59.jpg)

you know what, the stock mirrors don't look bad when put on the clipons.

how is it riding with the clip-ons?  I have a old cafe bike with them but just curious about how it handles. 

 Very nice execution! Good job, now you are stricken with the mod bug! Good luck with the future mods!

I thought the same thing! Still haven't swapped them for Rizomas..  [Dolph]


A dream.. I can get my knee down now, makes it a little easier to achieve.. and you feel so much more of the bike when cornering..
It's definitely not as ergonomic compared to an upright bike but compared to supersports/bikes its almost the same. The longest ride so far
without a break has been around 2 hours in and around the city and that left me a little sore, you'll have ducati wrists for a while but I'm used to
it.. 4800ks done since I was last here though. Hope I helped!


Thanks so much! Wouldn't have been possible without this wonderful forum.. really good guys on here! Definitely have the bug now, already contemplating whats
going on her next [laugh] Part of the reason why I'm back on here.. Cheers!

Whoever does this might want new indicators, lets you get the levers in a more comfortable spot with the bars so low.
Ended up getting that seat cowl matched with the belly pan, bike looks a bit bigger in my opinion when someones sitting on it, any Opinions?
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/Snapbucket/94269131_zps26bc3c5e.jpg)
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/Snapbucket/86CB311C_zpsdd3fb253.jpg)
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q643/Dmonsta1/Snapbucket/AC1A8560_zps75a4f045.jpg)

I love that seat cowl. Xcentrix or something right?

Thanks! Yup XcentrikPerformance in spain, I might try and get some leds up there as indicators to go with the tailight too ;D

Nice work TC. [thumbsup]
I wonder if the frame thingo over the headlight would look good in matching white or if it would be too much? Not sure. People usually do them in black but it might work in white.