Ducati Monster Forum

Hi

I would like to share some of my experiences re the above mentioned and find out if there are other ways of improving my monster.

Firstly, they where not joking when said the fueling is crap on this puppy.  The PCV with o2 optimizer seems so have done a bit to smooth things out, but I`m still not happy.  there is very little literature on the setup of this product on the internet and was hoping someone can help.  I have had an advanced cylinder map done, but like i said, still not 100% happy... there is a SC project R60 slip-on on the bike.  The power she makes is 91 HP on the rear wheel with std air filter.  I will post the graph soon.  any comments are welcome.

Thanks   G

The O2 optimizer is probably whats causing the issue. Since most of the smoothest of the bike is done in the area where the O2 sensor has control, even if you use the optimizer, i don't think you'll get much of a "custom" map. It may just bump the fuel up all around and not make it run like total shit.

Your best bet is to remove the O2 sensor entirely by reflashing the ECU.

Ive got an single spark 1100EVO motor (refitted in my S2R1000) with a fully custom dyno tune that has been flashed directly onto the ECU (O2 removed). It lays the torque down pretty flat.  THe motor is absolutely smooth as butter once its warmed up and running.

Its an S2R1000 exhaust with cat and 45  degree termis. so the header is a bit smaller, open airbox.

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/S2R1100.jpg?m=1349551941)

yes, it seems like the answer on all the boards.  re flash and dump the optimizers.  I also managed to fool the ecu with a few resistors and a cap to think all is well with the exhaust valve.  I removed the servo motor and my PC cabling lives there now.  

From what I can remember, the front and rear cylinder differed drastically and a lot of fuel was taken out. (to rich from 5000 to 8500rpm) this seems to be the opposite that everyone is saying.  I'm still waiting for the dyno graph and AF map from the shop.  Thanks for the info.  Its good to know these bikes can be made to run super smooth.

You might find these interesting/useful  :)

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=41934.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=41934.0)

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=43335.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=43335.0)

Super thanks.  will give it a read

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8GuOj2zuIiA/UQjHSalgtII/AAAAAAAAAAY/Yx-wAStB9IA/w754-h501-p-k/M1100EVO2012.JPG)

This is my what they say my bike makes.  SC project R60 carbon pipe, std air filter and PCV with optimizer.

  Nice torque output.  :)

 I plan on adding a power commander with dyno tuning soon. most of the dyno charts I've seen for 1100's are like He Mans'.

those toeque values are in newton meter, not ft-lbs. 90i would be sweeeet if it were ft lbs

 I knew it was to good to be true,  :'(

 

93Nm is 68ftlbs so its actually right on par with mine. Given the differences in dyno, its spot on. However mine is much smoother due to the custom map instead of using the autotune.

How do you know your custom map is smoother than an autotuned PCV??  ;D

The snatchy-ness of the 1100evo monster have me completely up the wall.  Even with the PCV (with numerous setting changes) I still have a hard time to enjoy riding at sub 5k rpm.  Sooo....  I have decided to experiment further.  One of the reasons it seems the bike is so touchy at low rpm is the ratio of throttle twist vs. TPS vs. lamda readings.

If you look at the very skinny throttle grip vs. the large and proportional cam in the throttle housing you can easily see how the TPS can pass many readings per second or per 2 second interval to the ecu.  Combine this with the lamdas constantly lagging in response time, and you have a disaster on your hands in the sub5k region. 

To better this I have made a "throttle tamer" and installed larger/thicker grips.  This gives a much smoother control of the throttle, and in turn translate to a smoother ride.  This single mod made more difference than anything ells I have tried.

The cam profile was a combination of commonsense, the original cam shape and some proven profiles on the net.

The TPS seems to read more than just 5* increments.  and if it does, it seems to move more than the 5* increments at "steady" throttle with the std throttle cam and std grips.  If anyone have some input or would like to correct me, please do.  This mod worked for me, and I'm trying to understand why, maybe there is more one can do to make driveability better.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ekeyHct8TYA/UQ-AR8WyOBI/AAAAAAAAABE/1P1aj9ekO2Y/w243-h221-n-k/IMG_3868.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iv1rUHKva6Y/UQ-ALEQZphI/AAAAAAAAAAw/6_nlN-rNbUM/s751/IMG_3864.JPG)

hey! now thats something ive been waiting to see. most throttles are double cable and ive yet to find one for my S2R1000, do u have capability to make more? It seems the heavier metal will also help with vibration damping too. or increase it.

I have made it with a lathe, and hand tools.  Its made from (Acetyl) aka Delrin.  Its all one piece, the cam and tube.  If I had a cnc machine it would have been much easier.  This one was suppose to be a prototype, but the end result worked so well and the finish I got after polishing was fantastic.  I fitted and lube it before I could take another photo of the finished product.

re: bar weights.  I have made long brass inserts with o-rings to keep them in place, and works fantastic to reduce bar vibrations.  Plus the new grips I fitted also have more rubber/silicon on them also reducing the vibration transfer to my hands.

i dont have a lathe. but ive never thought to use delrin. Its easy to work with and quite durable.

I did see that there is a company called electraeon that makes the throttle tubes and cams for the bike. I need to look into that because one of the big issues is that the bike just jumps since its so torquey at the intial revs.

Delrin is what all my guitar picks are made of.  Stuff sure does last.

Its fantastic stuff.  I discovered it when I played paintball.  We used it to make custom "bolts" for our marker.  Its got excellent sliding, wear and impact properties.  I have made amongst other things, frame sliders, frame plugs and even cam chain tensioners for my VTR.  You need to to use a very sharp tool and work at mid to hi speed.  Any plastic polish works well to get a good finish.

Here is how you take the servo out, and prevent the engine check light to come on.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zwmDUCVZl_c/UR3WcznlXQI/AAAAAAAAAAw/4tCadAGZd7o/w703-h711-p-o-k/M1100EVO%2BSERVO%2B.jpg)

FYI G2 makes a Throttle Tamer for the 696. I have the 500 cam which is the least aggressive. It made it a lot less snatchy riding around town, but you also need an extra twist of the wrist to go WOT.

Finally.  Rexxer ECU flash = new bike!  No more lamda`s, no optimizer, no stumble ... just fun.  I kept the PCV on the bike and can adjust any part of the map.

Glad to hear it is sorted out. If you had considered unge's question at the time and gone to the autotune you could have sorted it out and enjoyed the ride earlier.