Ducati Monster Forum

For the tl;dr crowd:

2011 Monster 696, 6K miles, $6800

I'm looking for a first bike and eventual commuter during appropriate weather (FL panhandle). I'm 5'11", 185# and I'd like to think I'm well-coordinated. Is this a good deal? Does it look like it has ABS? Is it mostly stock (my preference)? Will it get me through 2+ years before I'm hungry for more Monster? I'm taking the MSF course in a week.

From the ad:



Longer version:

I've been longing for a Ducati since I discovered them in 2003 when my landlord's son, president of the Ducati owner's club of the Italian province in which I resided at the time, invited me out to the track and made me an 'honorary member'. Higher priorities and questionable maturity put that idea on hold for a while. In 2007 I became enamored with Monster after a brief introduction at the dealership up the road from the airport hotel, days after I moved to Hawaii--again, priorities and maturity.

Now with priorities in check and sufficient maturity/sensibility in hand (not to mention straighter, flatter roads here in FL), I'm signed up for the basic course and ready to make it happen, lest I wait another decade and have it mistaken for a mid-life crisis toy. I've got a 70-miles round trip to work which is killing me in the truck and I'm eager to make a change.

After reading various Ducati fora for weeks, I find myself lusting (indecisively) over everything from slightly older S2R 800s to newer 696/796 w/ABS; thankfully the Senna Grey on red S4R in Miami already sold before I got too attached to the idea. I've read and deeply considered the advice here and elsewhere regarding starting on a Ninja 250/500 or a Suzuki SV650, but unfortunately, Ducati doesn't make those, and certainly not in Monster form. The nearest true Ducati dealer is ~300 miles away and most CL/ebay/cycletrader/classifieds ads would require a sight-unseen purchase + shipping or a lengthy road trip with questionable logistics to get the bike back home. Although a newer 696 ABS is definitely on my short list, going with this option would be decidedly based on convenience. I don't want to get too drawn in by the price and local availability, so what do you think? Is there a gremlin lurking somewhere in this bike that I'm not detecting? Is the price or condition too good to be true?

Thank you kindly for your time.


Will

The bike doesn't seem to have ABS . . . blinker broken? Can get a new set for the cost of 1 OEM; if it's stock is OK, very very slowly you will start to change parts and suddenly the bike will no longer look like this one . . but still be this one . . .

I have kept my M620 since 2006 . . . and love, it has enough and a bit more when needed; if you are in the panhandle, once LT gets back you might have someone to take care for your bike and other needs . . .

Regarding your last sentence of the 3rd parragraph, "Is there a gremlin lurking somewhere in this bike that I'm not detecting? Is the price or condition too good to be true?" can't say, YOU must go and see the bike, my 0.02 ..  good luck

You are the same size as me, personally I'd consider a larger displacement bike like the 1100 or an S4 model with a metal tank.  The seating position on the 696 is too cramped for my style and on the short 15 mile ride, just to test ride the thing, I felt it.  There are quite a few S4 and 1100 deals I've seen lately so be patient.  If you consider yourself responsible enough you can grow into the bike and never forget that the bike has ultimate authority.  [thumbsup]
If you're settled on the 696, as stated previously, go see it or have a friend come with you that knows what to look for on these bikes.  Good luck and remember to post your purchase so we can all drool.

Bike has ABS, look at the right front quarter view... two brake lines coming from front of tank.

OH, I was looking at the brakes to see if I saw the sensor scheibe . .My bad

Interesting, this is the first S4/1100 recommendation I've seen for a new rider. Thanks for the vote of confidence. :)

And thanks to everyone for the replies--keep 'em coming; I have an appointment to see this one tomorrow!

That's cause it is generally a bad idea....

I like our 696 a lot. Yeah it's a little on the small side for guys our size, but it's not too bad to me (32" inseam). You'd have to decide for yourself if it is too cramped or not.

If it is, maybe you'd want someting more like a Multi?

I'd still stick to a smaller engine for a new rider though - 620/695/696.

FWIW - the 696 is about as powerful as a 900. Progressive engine generations are packing more into less.

Sorry - no clear - I was talking as oppossed to the suggesting of an 1100/S4...

that is a good point.
it has the lines, but i dont see the wheel sensors

Bring someone who knows what they are looking at with you.  The dealer glued the light together and I never noticed sounds suspicious to me.  Look for other signs of a drop like rash on the fork bottom/axle, levers and bar ends.  Ask to see service records.  Belts less than 2 years old?  Much less?  Hydraulic fluids changed annually?  When was the last major service?  Tires over 4 years old?  If the bike has ABS it should have a sensor for the front and one for the rear.  As Raux said, the two brake lines heading under the tank attach to the ABS pump.   

sensor's there on the front left side.


as far the light.. easy replacement.
but check everywhere for small scrapes on the end of the footpeg,bars fork bottom on that side.
some people also kick the light when mounting the bike, so he may have done that or someone at the dealer did it.
and interestingly enough is not the original unless it was mounted upside down.

the pipe shields were anodized and seem to have faded. same as top of mastercylinders.

rear tire looks a bit squared off, and likely original pirellis.

Those tires look like Pirelli Angels . . . and yes Raux, sensor scheibe is on the front left, had to actually get a mag glass to see it

Also, compare optically the rear sets, if one looks shinier than the other, it could mean one is newer than the other . . . just sayin'

not to mention. the 696 is about 50lbs dry weight lighter.

Thanks for all the replies. So far it seems it's a more-or-less stock 696 ABS with some anodized parts and a kicked rear turn signal. Plus, people seem to think it's a bit small for me. Admittedly as a result, I AM still tempted to have one of these shipped out:

http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-Monster-S4-108411479 (http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-Monster-S4-108411479)
http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-Monster-S4R-S-Testastretta-106737529 (http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-Monster-S4R-S-Testastretta-106737529)
http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-MONSTER-S4-97777245 (http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-MONSTER-S4-97777245)
http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2008-Ducati-Monster-S2R-1000-108283612 (http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2008-Ducati-Monster-S2R-1000-108283612)
http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-MONSTER-800-S2R-108269263 (http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2007-Ducati-MONSTER-800-S2R-108269263)

Would avoiding these for now be over-cautious when I eventually want to go in that direction? :)

I'm going to go take a look at the M696 tomorrow afternoon.

Reading this, "I'm looking for a first bike and eventual commuter" somehow doesn't compute for me at least with S4R . . .

If, again my HO, first bike, from this group either the S2R800 or S2R1K, if you want to rip the roads then a S4R/S would be your choice .. .Again, my 0.02

Go with the larger engine.  My vote is for the 1100.   If not, you'll just want one in a few months anyway. 

I wouldn't let the turn signal scare you.  Ducati OEM turn signals break easy by a simple kick of the foot.  Best way is to go see the bike and get a feel for the person.  Do you have any close friends that ride? Take one of them to check it out.

I would get the bigger bikes out of your mind real quick.  They are not bikes for beginners.  Starting out small is a safety net and makes it harder to get in to trouble.  Even the smaller bikes are fast enough for the street. I have owned my 2006 S2R800 since new for 6 years now. Only recently did I buy a bigger bike.

Keep in mind if you get to the point the bike doesn't have enough power there are upgrades.  Right now you need to focus on learning how to ride and everything that goes with that.  You are smart by taking the class, that is a great starting point.

I am shocked people are recommending big bikes for a FIRST bike.

What he said . . .

i've never been a fan of telling new riders they should buy less powerful bikes.  any bike can get you in trouble and a more powerful bike gives you more control in my opinion.  regardless, if you're going to wreck you'll do it no matter what bike your on.  having a less powerful bike could give you a false sense of security and having a more powerful bike will hopefully make you overly cautious.  just my 2 cents.  to each their own. 

Big or little, they both go 100MPH. You can kill yourself on both. You don't have to twist the throttle the whole way on either bike. Better to buy something with some balls instead of trying to hop up a smaller bike later.

Regarding 696's have the same power as old 900's....as of 2005 Ducati started quoting crank HP (like everyone else) instead of rear wheel HP thus the "miraculous" advances in the baby monsters. 

Saying both can kill you or both can do 100 mph is hiding your head in the sand and ignoring the facts that we're not warning about self restraint, we're warning about the severity of the bike's reaction to the rider screwing up, specially on throttle.

I've seen a newbie hit a pothole or chopped pavement and grab at the grip, opening the throttle and rocketing them through a red light.

I've seen a newbie ham fist the throttle trying to roll back on past the apex of the curve and spin the bike out from under himself.

Hell, I've seen a newbie blow a shift and vault the front wheel when the clutch was released too quickly.

There's a reason new skiers stay off the black diamonds for a while.

There's a reason racers don't start out in an F1 car or supersport bike.

There's a reason beginners don't fight black belts.

And the few exceptions who "were fine" don't constitute justification to recommend against common sense.

No it's not instant or guaranteed death, but it's all an odds game, like wearing a helmet or other gear.

generally but it appears he has his head on straight and is exactly why I said if he considers himself responsible then why not?  No matter the size he as the rest of us can pay the price.  Shit, I was riding my mountain bike and fell no more than 2 feet and broke my ankle in 4 places.  I've also been known to jump shit, early years, and land more than 20 feet away with no broken bones.  His question on whether or not he might outgrow the bike in 2 years led me to believe he is soliciting more than "newbie" recommendations and as such stated my thoughts for that reason.  It's my opinion that he will grow out of the bike in months and today's Monsters are more forgiving and easier to ride than the jerky S4's which is why I suggested the 1100. 

He's an adult and warning him is one thing but whether or not he will listen is his choice.  He asked for opinions and after reading his stature I put myself in his shoes because we are the same size.  I believe it's a stretch you are comparing F1 cars and black diamonds, not the same for me anyway.  My first ski trip I actually took a black diamond and survived better than skiers with years under their belt.  I know my own personal limits and having water skied my entire life and being on the college ski team helped me a great deal.  

I saw a black belt get knocked out in an instant too and more than twice.  ;)  A supervised fight is much different than a street brawl.  BTW, it was a fraternity brother that we started calling WIMPER because he got his ass beat regularly despite his black belt.  ;D

I've had the 696 for 5 years now. one time I've said i want more power. i was on the autobahn doin 100mph+ and an inline 4 japanese bike passe me and i couldn't reel him in

as a commuter, back road terror and crossalp tourer the 696 has been more than enough

bigger bike doesn't make u more of a man or a better rider
just means u spend more on gas, insurance and at times can go faster

For alot of us, bigger bike power is more fun. I bought a CRF250 a few years back. I sold it to a friends two weeks later and bought the 450. Having the power on tap to spin the rear at will and pick up the front is more fun.

There is a limit. I'll concede that the Panigale is a bit much. I think a late model S4RS or T is about as much as I need.

Half that stuff the newb will do on a 125 as well.

I'm not saying go buy an R1. An 1100M is not that fast. Until we get into Ducati SBK's there isn't much of a worry. The Monster/Hypermotard lineup is pretty tame and forgiving.

Muskrat, exceptions don't disprove the logic. We're talking about playing the best odds.

Hb, it's a matter of degrees, but the logic still applies.

Anyhow, back to the thread.  :P

Any update on your search and thoughts?

[thumbsup]

And..., often an excess of power can be more work to handle and less fun than something lighter and more nimble, not to mention better manners!  ;)

I'm off to look at the 696 in half an hour. I'll follow the recommendations here regarding maintenance history, modifications, and inspecting for damage, but otherwise my primary concern is ergonomics once I have a chance to sit on it. I don't mind starting off on a smaller engine to learn, but there are several additional factors I'm considering.

I don't want to rush into just any Monster simply because it's local and convenient when it might be the wrong bike. I've received several concerned replies that this bike might physically be too small for my frame and that's a major consideration. I do plan on ending up on something larger in the 800-1100cc range eventually, but I have to remind myself that a significant portion of my motivation is to get a more fuel economy-conscious commuter--I'm not a racer and don't have any track ambitions. I'm not terribly concerned with starting on a larger bike as, no matter what I end up on, my plan is to spend the first few weeks in empty parking lots and gradually work my way up to low-traffic neighborhoods. It will likely be at least 1-2 months before I consider riding it to work (21 miles on one city highway with 2-3 curves and ~15 lights, but 45min in traffic). However, I'm also not one to entirely ignore advice from those more experienced.

If the 696 simply feels too small for my body to comfortably ride, I'll scratch the idea and keep looking at craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, et al. While the S4R in Senna/red (I've only seen that combination on S4Rs for some reason) is wildly appealing to me (I also like the red/white stripe), it would be difficult to justify the 'scarier' engine size and more difficult learning curve if the fuel economy isn't a significant increase over the ~22 MPG I'm getting in the truck, or the ~30 MPG I'm hoping to get in a future Jeep. Recently seeing a youtube video with an M1100 Evo is at least partly to blame for my recent decision to finally get started, but I'm not willing to spend $12K on a first bike.

Furthermore, the nearest Ducati-only dealer is 300 miles away. There's a closer dealership that does Ducati-Triumph-BMW-Aprilia, but they're still ~100 miles away. If a repair is beyond my capacity, then it's going to be a pain to get it worked on. Although newer bikes can have their problems, I worry about the maintenance on older ones.

Anyway, I should get ready to go. I'll report back after I look at the 696. :)

Thanks, all!

I'm 5'10" 170ish. THe 696 fits fine. I did raise mine only because I was a bit more agressive with the riding where I live and felt the additional cornering clearance would help.
The Comfort seat raises the leg room a bit also. I have a 32-33" inseam (just like I'm 5'91/2" on some days as well)

Then consider an older 900, easier to maintain and the frame will fit you just fine.  I like the 696 but its too small for me then again I'm on an S4 already and a geezer glider.   Don't forget to report your thoughts.   You might also consider a Yammi FZ 8

Pretty and nice seating position. http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/mcy/3555122015.html (http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/mcy/3555122015.html)
And another http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/mcy/3568260574.html. (http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/mcy/3568260574.html.)  Although I wouldn't offer more than 4k

Ok, just looked at it.

It's all stock/original. The red rings on the tires are reflective tape. 600 mile service and and oil change performed by the dealer in Pensacola where he bought it. He's only used ethanol-free premium gas. There aren't any signs of drops. I did notice a bit of surface rust on a few bolts which I'm guessing is normal, but other than that and the rear turn signal, it's very, very clean.

I sat on it and it doesn't feel tiny--my knees fit in the tank cover's indentations. He showed me where the seat height can be adjusted--didn't realize that was possible. It was my first time sitting on a bike while trying to get a feel for it, so I don't think I really know what I was looking for other than obvious discomfort which wasn't a problem.

Seeing it in person makes it VERY tempting to just snatch up and go rather than dealing with buying online and having one shipped. I'll probably end up on a bigger Monster one day, but I'm definitely leaning toward buying this one next week after my class.

uh.. me either. tell me more.

He mentioned giving this thing a twist:

(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/8559/2011ducatimonster696lef.jpg)

At least, I think it was that. Of course, the seat height was fine, so I really didn't pay close attention.

[roll]
That's the preload, which you should adjust anyway, as it's probably too firm as it left the factory. Sag should be roughly equal at both ends. Get a friend and a tape measure.

The "DP touring seat" has been mentioned. If you need more room, consider a Sargent seat too. If the stock bar doesn't suit, consider a Rizoma. Suggest you fit a 14T front sprocket on there ASAP which will make low speeds easier to manage and allow you more "umph" and the use of 6th gear in the USA.  ;) http://www.sargentcycle.com/ducws6961000.htm (http://www.sargentcycle.com/ducws6961000.htm)

uh no, that adjust your suspension preload. which as a byproduct does raise the rideheight, but also makes your suspension stiffer and your sag settings off.

the best way to adjust seat height. is a different seat.

you can also raise the entire rear end with a $20 piece from a 796 or 1100

Cool, I did notice the seat felt maybe a bit uncomfortable, but I chalked it up to unfamiliarity. I'd wait to get used to it before I think about changing it out. I've read many mentions of 14t sprockets, seems to be a common mod. One thing I forgot to mention is that the warranty is good until May. With its current mileage, maybe it'll hit the next scheduled maintenance (7500?) before then.

Ha, people keep PM'ing me to say I should just stick to the 696 for now rather than go bigger. So unless you guys don't see any deal breakers thus far, I think I'm gonna roll with it. :)

Oh, and it turns out there are a couple of dealerships in the area about 100 miles east or west and then the Ducati-specific dealership about 300 miles away. Would the latter be preferred for maintenance or does it not matter?

i'm 6' and i like the 696.  i don't ride much these days (only road tests) and i find the bigger bikes really do scare me.  the 696 has a nice revvy motor and is easy to ride.  i find them comfy too, after the first time i rode one and felt like i was sitting on the front wheel compared to the older monsters anyway.

as for the new rider debate: i can't imagine putting someone who hasn't ridden before in a s4r.  there's a very sound reason most countries have graduated rider licencing systems.  sure, putting new riders on bikes that have lower spec suspension and brakes and that sometimes can't get out of their own way does worry me, but our new LAMS system lets you have bikes up to 660cc, but most have restricted throttle opening like the monster 659 and they're still quite quick bikes.  most are getting abs now too, so the specs are generally going up.  but an s4r will stand up vertically if you give it a quick twist in second, it's not a bike for someone who is learning.

and, if you want to learn to ride well in a sporting sense, you will always ride a slower bike faster.  as your skill level rises you can move up in output.  by the time you get to a litre bike you'll be an a grade road racer and way fast.

Agree with Brad 200%.  8)

Where are you and where is the selling dealer? Define "Ducati specific". A "Ducati dealer" is a franchised dealer. They are required to have the special tools and training required. This isn't a UJM you're considering. A Ducati dealer with a good reputation who stays busy is the one you want. They should have seen all the quirks and abnormalities and know how to adjust the valves correctly, etc., etc. A generic "bike dealer" won't have a clue. Furthermore, with a franchised dealer you have recourse to Ducati NA should you have issues. You're not buying a "Ford".  ;)

At 7,500 the bike will need a lot of work, a belt change and valve adjustment, and tires likely too if those are original. Consider that in your negotiation.

Ok, so what's a fair price?

Last minute weigh-ins:

1) Isn't there a Ducati dealer in Pensacola? Was there in 2006 - fwiw.

2) Frankly, Ducati's are a bit pricey, imo.  If the owner of this bike played with the shock without knowing what he was doing, then what else did he play with?

3) If you want a commuter and are new to riding - take a look at (a used) the small Multistrada (620 engine), and

4) Consider a mid-sized, water-cooled engine for a commuter, such as a Suzuki V-Strom 650, Yamaha/Honda equivalents, etc.

5) Please forget about the S4R, etc....no matter how safely you ride, you'll never get above third gear on the street, unless you either scoff at speed limits or take it to the track...it's a waste of money for what you say you want it to do.

6) Regardless of which bike you buy, have someone check the suspension setup (those parts that are adjustable) to make sure it's in the ballpark for you.

7) I don't know the stock gearing on the 696, but on the larger-engine bikes it's "tall", which makes riding in stop-n-go traffic a real pain...lots of clutch slipping, etc. gets old really quickly.

He bought it at D&D Cycles in Pensacola (109 miles away) where Ducati is a brand they carry. Melillimoto in Ocala (300 miles away) only carries Ducati.

@OT:

1) D&D Cycles in Pensacola.
2) Hmm.
3,4) (Un?)fortunately, it's gotta be a Monster!
5) I'm over the S4R for now, for a variety of reasons
6) I'll have an experienced co-worker take a look once I get a bike

Thanks for all the advice, gents!

What someone is willing to pay?  8)

Did you do no research? OK, in most of the country it's the dead of winter and people are NOT thinking about bikes. Dealers also have low inventories. In two months the market will be hot again.

A 500 mile 696 in mint condition sold in Florida on eBay recently for $6,800. Since you may need to drop $600 - $1,000 in parts and service before May, offer him $6K? Unless the bike looks rough up close, if he still has it in two months, he'll probably get his asking price in April?

Find some Ducati riders down there and ask them which Ducati dealer in FL does the best work. Maybe worth travelling a bit. If you buy the bike, book it in NOW for the 7,500 before the warranty end date. ANY dealer will be swamped in MAY!!!  ;)

Okay, setting up the transaction!

Question: How should I reset or adjust the preload to a more appropriate level?

There's gotta be threads on adjusting spring preload.

There's likely a section in the owner's manual too.

The old rule of thumb is sag should be set so the rear of the bike drops 1" when the rider sits on it, but that may vary so I'd double-check the OM or threads.

Preload itself is adjusted by a pair of locknuts which spin upward or downward on threads - upward toward the spring, making it shorter/harder to INCREASE preload (pressure on the spring), or downward, away from the spring, making it longer/softer to DECREASE preload/pressure.

If memory serves there is a dampening adjustment as well, and when present should be reset or adjusted to match the new preload. Dampening is an adjustment of one of the valves which controls the rate at which the shock moves (either inward or outward depending upon the valving). It is used to prevent the shock from causing a back-and-forth reaction like a pogo stick when the shock/spring react to a bump/pothole/road irregularity. The dampening slows and controls the reaction, so if it is insufficient the strength of the spring will allow it to pogo.

That's a basic primer and should help you understand the adjustments when you find the specific procedures.

Nevermind, it turns out he never adjusted it.

In that case, you probably need to back off it a hair unless you intend to carry a passenger. I doubt your shock damping is even adjustable. If it is, at your weight just leave it alone.

Im curious. If it doesnt matter what bike you start on.. so long as you "control yourself" why does the msf and other such organizations start riders on 125 ann 250's?

Ooo wait, I know the answer to this from first hand experience :)

1. Its easier to LEARN on a small bike.
2. Its easier to interpret the feedback on a small bike and begin to make the appropriate adjustments.
3. Its easier to recover from mistakes made on a small bike as the motorcycles reactions to your newbie HAM FISTS arent as exagerated as when you make the SAME mistake on 1000cc motorcycle.
4. your skill level will develop more quick due to points 1,2,3.
5. This list can go on and on.

Like I tell friends. Valentino rossi started out his racing career on a 125! But if you think youre better than him, go ahead and buy that 1000cc bike. Just let me take a picture of you first.

Maybe the parts about MSF students not killiing themselves or their classmates, and 125s being really inexpensive and light for what MSF needs them to do...

In my MSF class we never went fast enough to get any feedback from the 125/250 cruisers...

....but I don't think Rossi's 125 is what MSF uses  ;D

your entire class was based on feedback. almost all the early exercises taught you about the friction  zone.  How to engage the friction zone smoothly, without stalling.. was all about feed back.. The first time you used the front brake in the course, and learned how little pressure on the lever it took to stop.. that was all feedback. 

i realize i'm late, but I would suggest NOT getting your dream bike as your first bike.

Get a beater to learn on, then buy your dream bike once you acquire some riding skills.


Speaking from experience (of not doing it the 'right' way).

Boom!

(http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/425/newride.jpg)

Congrats [clap] [clap] [clap]

hot!  the red frame and red panels look sweeet! [thumbsup]

AWESOME WRL!!!  [beer]  [thumbsup]  [clap]

The bike looks great, and you definitely made the right decision with the 696!  Learn, improve and love.  Happy for you!

Keep us posted with ride reports and pics as you progress.

1. Cheap
2. Light
3. Cheap

Thanks again for all of the insight and advice! Now if only my MSF course (and thus my endorsement) wasn't postponed to next weekend...then again, a cold front dropped temps to the 40s this weekend, so perhaps that was a blessing in disguise. However, that hasn't stopped me from chasing other pursuits. After quite a bit of reading and some advice from a co-worker, Speedymoto sliders all around are on order. I'm now trying to decide whether or not to do actual mods such as mirrors, integrated tail light, fender eliminator, exhaust, rearsets, etc. I'm also taking a look at this Keith Code movie - A Twist of the Wrist II. Anything I can do hold me over until I'm more ready to ride.

At any rate, I'm exceedingly happy thus far. Cheers to all of you!

honestly, the frame sliders for a new rider is the best and only NEEDED mod IMO.

after that its all about personal taste

+1 on Raux . . .

any other modification or "bling" part, wait until you and the new mistress are one with each other . .  don't want to break $130.00 worth of mirrors, do you? Don't want to break a $XXX.00 different handlebar?

Changing handlebars to clip ons is something like "changing" to a different bike, replacing your OEM rearsets for different ones is the same, being there done that, they are not "night and day" changes, but, you will feel the difference . . . Being there, done that!!!!

Now, wait for the weather to warm up, get your endorsement and MSF course under your belly, sign up for the next level and then for the next level[wished we had something like that here in Panama] and ride and ride, after a few months when you are no longer thinking on what to do in what order that it comes by itself, then and only then, maybe replace  your tail light for an integrated one as long as is DOT compliant in FL . . . after that, the more you and the bike become one, makes changes...

Just sayin' . . . [thumbsup] be  8) and [Dolph] safely

Ducati actually makes pretty decent bikes. People here are always in a big hurry to spend YOUR $$$.  ;)

Suggest that you fit a 14T front sprocket on yours ASAP as this will make the bike much easier for a new rider to manage at low speeds, and generally much more peppy overall. Worry about other upgrades after you've decided what you like and possibly what you don't.

Don't scrap the mirrors and bikini fairing before you learn how well they are designed. The fairing works and both fairing and mirrors are extremely aerodynamically quiet. There are better mirrors out there I'll acknowledge, BUT you'll pay for them with turbulence!

Take it slow and safe, and ride with some experienced non-crazies until you learn some roadcraft.

Agreed on both points!

Evidence presented, frame/front/rear sliders seemed like an obvious trigger pull. The rest I mentioned would likely be after the 7500 mile service, which I'm trying to time in conjunction with (prior to) warranty expiration in May--I've got a lot of riding to do between now and then, especially if I'm to be prepared for the 300 mile ride to the Ducati guys at Melillimoto in Ocala. That should give me some time to get acquainted and determine a few basic preferences. I tend to research the hell out of anything upon which I spend >$50, so that should give me sufficient lead time (arriving at the answer to 'which sliders' took me three days of reading; gloves and helmet took a week each). Plus most of the mods I'm currently considering would be with function in mind rather than simply aesthetic.

• Mirrors - After sitting on the bike *cough*and a quick unlicensed ride around the parking lot*cough*, I might find them to be less than ergonomic in the future.
• Integrated tail light - To replace the annoying busted rear turn signal, plus some of them seem to add visibility functions (stop alert, blinking) to keep me safer.
• Fender eliminator - Not sure about 'wearing the road' since I'll be commuting during hurricane season, but this seems like a popular change, especially since I might already be tinkering with the blinkers. Also, there are multiple kit options to consider (evotech, ducatimonstertailchop.com).
• Exhaust - Love the bike, the stock exhaust less so. I've read posts purporting weight loss and increased/smoother performance, but there seem to be numerous options/paths to follow.
• Seat - There seems to be potential for the boys to get crushed with the stock seat.
• Rearsets - They felt a bit slippery initially.
• G2 Throttle Tamer/Cam - ?? #1.
• 14t sprocket - ?? #2. The jury seems to be out on this. Frequently recommended, but others (Raux) have listed cons worth considering. I'll give it time to see how I feel about the stock gearing.

Rest assured, I'm going to get to know the bike first. These are just those that I've noticed off the bat and might provide increased function. Handlebars, levers, determining whether or not I actually like carbon fiber, and whether or not I actually want to customize every little bit of the bike vs. preserving the stock form while tastefully modifying, etc can wait.

In the states the 14t isn't really and issue unless you are constantly on 85mph highway

I'll see how it is out of curiosity and to establish a baseline, but plan to have it figured out by the time I go in for service in late April so they can drop it in if I've decided on it. Afterall, commuters don't need to hit 200+ kph, right? [evil]

Glad Raux beat me too it! ;) Fit the 14T ASAP and thank me later. 8) My 796 is my 8th Ducati and only two cried for a 14T in the States. I've ridden a stock 2011 696 and even the Evo benefits. And..., you'll even have a useable 6th gear!

The mirrors can be adjusted to a degree, both at the mounts and in the housings. They are not perfect and could be longer..., which creates other issues in traffic. What they ARE is QUIET. My other "naked" sounds like a hurricane at 70 MPH by comparison. This is no joke, and I wear a Schuberth.

On a bike you will always be invisible. Hard to believe but true. The stock turn signals are easy to kick, but visible. Check Florida law too. They may need to be so many inches apart.

With miles, the stock cans are not that quiet compared to other stock bikes. People turn their heads well before I pass. You'll have to see if you want to go deaf. I have tinnitus anyway. Wear ear plugs. Seriously. The weight difference I doubt you could even feel. A Termi kit will run better certainly and is plug-and-play for the most part. I don't need one but I also have a lot more motor than you do. So does Raux.

You are 300 miles from a qualified dealer? Depends on how clever you are whether you want to screw around with the tune. Raux can assist if you do. I just want to richen my idle mixture but haven't gotten around to it because my Ducati dealer/ Dynojet expert is 140 miles from here.

Consider a Sargent saddle if your nuts are getting crushed and also Tech Spec pads to get you off the tank in traffic. There are pix of mine on this site.

1.  The MSF classes are required to use bikes with 500cc or less. 
2.  125 and 250cc bikes are cheaper.

I'm all for learning to work on the bike, but I'd like to first establish a baseline. Having glanced through the manual, a few things occur to me. The first owner had D&D Cycles (where he purchased it) perform the 600-mile maintenance and two oil changes. He said they were friendly and did a good job (?), but were extremely slow and took six hours for the 600-mile while he waited, despite having made a prior appointment. Those records are on their way to me from D&D. The nearest dealers are:

• D&D Cycles (Pensacola, 101 miles, standard sales/service)
• Florida Motorsports (Talahassee, 111 miles, standard sales/service)
• Orange Park Powersports (Jacksonville, 276 miles, standard sales/service)
• Melillimoto* (Ocala, 298 miles)

*Authorized D16RR Sales & Service Center, Master Tech Service

The idea I have in my head is that I'd like for the bike to sparkle like new, inside and out, before I start tinkering on my own. The original owner had the basic maintenance done, but let the bike get a bit dingy around the edges the past 2 years (e.g., grimy engine, some rusted bolts, oxidization on the discs and other areas that look like they want to rust). I'm thinking of calling up Melillimoto and scheduling them to run through it with a fine tooth comb at 7.5K miles in late April--it's currently at 5850 + the 300 it would take to get there.

Looking at the service schedule, I'd like for them to perform all of the 7.5K schedule, the 24 months schedule, and give it a thorough cleaning. This would cover every scheduled item in the manual except for changing the front fork oil (36 months)--so why not, let's have them do that, too. I know it seems like overkill, and correct me if I've got the wrong idea, but I'd like the peace of mind since the warranty would end days after this major service. I imagine I'd need new tires by then since it's still running the original set, and they might as well do the 14t sprocket while we're going nuts.

This idea would give me about 1.3K miles under my belt to get familiar enough to make the trip after the next 6-10 weeks, a nice day at a full-on Ducati dealership, a super-clean bike with a fresh bill of health upon which I could begin learning to tinker, an upgrade or two, a 300-mile ride home, and a blistering hole in the wallet. [roll]

I'd make every effort to develop comfort doing all of my own work from there forward. The more local dealerships could be called upon if I get in over my head. I just want a fresh start--or am I overhyping the Ocala dealer?


Checked--no such law.

1. Who do you think requires the msf to use 250s and or 125's for the brc curriculum?
2. do you really think that its simply based on price?  If there were cheap 500 's to be had, would they be used by an credible organiztion?

I'm anal myself, so not over the top as far as I'm concerned. I see Ocala is exclusive, but do they specialize in detailing bikes too? You may be disappointed if you expect them to clean up every bolt. The rotors will probably take care of themselves.

If you have Diablos on there now and find you like them, then replace with Diablo II's when you do the 7,500. I like mine a lot!

To do that service they will need to take a lot of the bike apart, so you'll get your wish there. ;) Makes it easy enough to look over everything and it's a lot of work.

Better make the appointment now. They may book fast. Make sure you get 7,500 on there first so that they can turn off the service warning light. The Ducati hand tester is required for that on a Siemens bike.

Cool, so I'm not loony-tunes for wanting it to be so-fresh-and-so-clean-clean. Maybe I can find a detailer before/after I head down there. And I'll call them up tomorrow.

Cheers!

You might be loony..., but you're in good company. ;)

Bike dealers are not usually open on Monday, especially GW's birthday.

As you're a newbie, better fit the sliders ASAP and the 14T too since no very special tools are needed on a DSS 696. Just adjust the chain carefully per the instructions on the sticker on the swing arm..., or in the manual otherwise.

WRL - congrats and I know you're excited.

One word of advice from a BTDT point of view.

SLOW YOUR ROLL on the accessories.

I know it's fun and nice to want all that stuff.

But ride it, get to know the bike for a few months before you buy all that stuff.

You MIGHT spend thousands on that stuff, and decide you want something else, and lose all that money as it adds nothing to the resale.

You MIGHT find that you really didn't need/want all or some of that stuff.

Best Harley dealer I ever met was an honest to goodness rider. Back in the 90s, I remember he'd refuse to sell a bike to someone without a license. And when he did sell he'd always discourage them (YES DISCOURAGE THEM) from wasting too much money of accessories. He said, he'd be happy to sell them whatever they want, but he didn't want them to waste money on a bunch of stuff they might decide to hang on the garage wall later because they didn't want/need it. He'd tell them to ride the bike for a few months and THEN come back and spend more if they wanted to.

the only accessory you should be worried about buying right now is gasoline.

Worry? more about gear: jacket/helmet/gloves/footwear/under garment protection . . .

Cosmetic stuff can come later, you might or might not drop the bike . . .

We've all been there as newbies, getting to meet the floor . . .

good point. but i was thinking that's obvious

helmet, armored gloves, pants, jacket, boots

minimum for a starter

you dont have to get superexpensive stuff.
I bought my first set of gear from www.leatherup.com (http://)
but there are tons of other places and right now everything from last season is on sale.

Just reinforcing the ATGATT . . . ;D

I think you are totally justified establishing a baseline with your knew bike, and getting a complete service/tune done by a reputable Ducati dealer. 

I did the same with my bike.  The tech was awesome and pointed out a few things to keep an eye on and what to think about over the next service period (clutch plates/basket in my case).  The belts were also about 4 times tighter than they should've been, he showed me the difference and what the tension should feel like.  Good mechanics are like good doctors, when you find one, stick with them!

Smart thinking prior to warranty expiration.

Just to clarify, I've already picked up a Nexx XR1R helmet and Held Phantom gloves. The seller also threw in a Joe Rocket mesh jacket with padded shoulders/back/elbows and a pair of mid-calf height riding boots that will do the job until I decide which ones I want. I'm drawn to a few Sidi boots (Adventure, Armada, On Road, and Canyon), since it looks like some of them can blend in with casual clothes, but I'm concerned about the waterproof Gore-tex versions getting hot and I don't want rain-soaked feet when hurricane season gets here.

I'll figure out a full-on stormtrooper look later, but I need to figure out how to be safe while commuting and looking somewhat earthly for now. And I think you gents have got me wrong on the accessories/mods fever--consider order of completion as a reflection of my priorities: Scheduled MSF course => Helmet, Gloves, THEN Bike (+boots/jacket) and sliders. I'm still talking months down the line for the aesthetics. :)

My primary concerns right now are learning to ride (safely), getting very familiar with the bike, and removing any doubt whatsoever that it runs well and will be reliable.

Oh, and I was wondering, is this a good time to get a rear stand? I think I saw that the Pit Bull stand is well thought of. Also, with regard to the 14t sprocket, there's a lot of talk about doing a +1 to +3 on the rear instead. Worth it? Just trying to clarify before I order tonight. Thanks, gents.

Do the 14T now and when you change the chain and sprockets, that's the time you do the other gearing. Right now you haven't got enough chain possibly to do the +3. Sliders might be a good idea for a newbie.

Your priorities seem to be in order. As you build confidence though, just don't assume you know what you are doing. That 250 hour - 500 hour window is the worst! Remember the old saying, "There are bold pilots and there are old pilots..., but there are no old, bold pilots!" ;)

It's not intuitive or rational, but besides learning to ride the way you'd like, your biggest threat is 4-wheeled vehicles. You may be a great driver, but you are NOT prepared for the way they'll treat bikes, or road situations which have negligible impact for cars but can be terminal for bikes.

Do yourself a favor and find some skilled and seasoned older riders to follow. Watch everything they do and figure out why they did it. In time you'll develop strategies of your own for "staying out of the box". Much of that comes from riding very far ahead and anticipating what is about to happen in traffic. Your only defense on two wheels is in your right hand.

Rubber side down!

riding boots? armored? ankle support and protection?
also, if you dont plan on getting true motorcycle pants, at least wear jeans with proper knee armor. I use ICON, depending on loose or tight pants you can wear it over or under.

as far as back armor, padding doesn't cut it imo. I use a hard armor back. saved my back in a wreck, hit a railing, not even sore in the area that took the hit but you could see the knick in the plastic, that was under a leather suit, near my lower spine.

in fact in europe for awhile Ducati was giving away hard armor back systems with a new bike purchase. think about this, name the two most important parts of your system that are vunerable to outside trauma. Head and Spine.

NICE helmet btw.

He included this jacket (http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/closeouts/last_chance_bargains/joe_rocket/phoenix_4_mesh_motorcycle_jacket.html) and these boots (http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/bilt_speed_racer_leather_motorcycle_boots/web1012146). Again, just holdovers while I do more research.



Thanks, it's very lightweight. I got the red Cafe Racer style--matches the bike! [roll]

I had looked at the Bilt's before. not bad for the price

Upon closer inspection:

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BPIf5EKCKYM/USVZDuHx34I/AAAAAAAAAu0/LXg6rEXzqvg/s831/IMG_20130220_171514.jpg)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mhV-JbemAlY/USVYzYeY3bI/AAAAAAAAAus/cmgoBlA5FOc/s831/IMG_20130220_171359.jpg)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6TCeSsdXyuE/USVYSVNEh1I/AAAAAAAAAuM/UmofcAXbLGs/s831/IMG_20130220_171152.jpg)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6D1yyzb5bpY/USVYdLWCpCI/AAAAAAAAAuU/yj3k4xG6pus/s831/IMG_20130220_171240.jpg)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_C-CFMBWxr4/USVYgxH-z7I/AAAAAAAAAuc/QpgJGugOvgI/s831/IMG_20130220_171259.jpg)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pfyBdS4pOSQ/USVYppgI_nI/AAAAAAAAAuk/aYEbq-NAUp4/s831/IMG_20130220_171333.jpg)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cHVMav0rZWs/USVZPtBWElI/AAAAAAAAAvE/ZTN8h47q_fY/s831/IMG_20130220_171605.jpg)

Congrats on your new bike  8)... just curious but where was this bike stored previously? I can't figure out how you would get corrosion under the seat like that. Have you looked at the tools inside the tool pouch?

Thanks. It's mostly just grime, but there is a bit of oxidization as well. The previous owner stored it outside the past two years, including during the off seasons. There was a cheap cover included which you can see in the first post of this thread, but it isn't very effective in my opinion. I pulled it off earlier for a quick ride after I got back from Day 2/3 of my BRC and the bike was soaked from the 45min of rain prior to my return. I think that's also the cause of the rust in various locations. I've looked at the tool pouch once, it's grimey on the inside, white-streaked oxidized on the inside's tools.

on the handle bar and riser use http://www.jpcycles.com/product/900-301?utm_source=none&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&gclid=CKS07tDKzbUCFQ7NnAodaWcAhA (http://www.jpcycles.com/product/900-301?utm_source=none&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&gclid=CKS07tDKzbUCFQ7NnAodaWcAhA) if it's not to porous.  As a rule I use alcohol and a micro fiber towel to clean my engine, wheels and swing arm and have done so for years with no problems.  There is also a paste similar to the wad polish you can use on the bolts and things, tedious work but worth it once you see the result IMO.

Thanks. I'm going to get the dealer to clean it up as best they can in a few weeks when I go in for service. I'll see if they'll just swap out the rusted bolts. In the meantime, maybe I should look into a better cover?

you need a cover that says it's for use outdoors vents to prevent moisture build up but outside is outside and you will get more of the same.  Good luck with the dealer cleaning it to your liking.

Looks like it has lived near saltwater at some point.  It is certainly not terrible, but good to catch the rust/oxidation now and prevent it in the future.

It's lived between Pensacola and Panama City FL its whole life. Catching and cleaning corrosion is one thing, but is there some sort of spray-on treatment or something I can do to prevent it?

http://www.mywd40.com/protips/blog/2011/10/13/the_newest_member_of_the_wd-40_company_family (http://www.mywd40.com/protips/blog/2011/10/13/the_newest_member_of_the_wd-40_company_family)

FWIW, the other day I used some M-Pro 7 cleaner on a cheap Chinese chrome adjustable wrench which had some surface rust. Damn cheap steel no doubt. Anyway, with a light soak and minimal rubbing the rust vanished! Wouldn't want to try it on paint or plastic necessarily, but it's non-toxic. Anyway, I was impressed! ;) http://www.mpro7.com/mpro7-gun-cleaner.html (http://www.mpro7.com/mpro7-gun-cleaner.html)

Maybe worth a try? Gander Mountain might have it or you could just buy it at Midway USA online. If you try this, afterwards use some spray furniture wax or similar on the bolts, (NOT the disc braking surface naturally! ;D), as it leaves no protection after cleaning. On a firearm we use an oil or grease for that.

MSF, done! License and moto endorsement, done! Now to pick insurance. [Dolph]

If you have medical insurance DO NOT get PIP, you don't need it.  Progressive is pretty cheap IMO but so is Geico although I don't do business with them for reasons I can't say on this forum.   [evil]

Where are you located? Around here (S.C.), geico is a major ripoff for both car and motorcycles coverage. Progressive not much better. State Farm is best price here. Homeownership may be a requirement...

State Farm is a rip-off here, they quoted me 1700/year when Progressive is at 600 for two bikes.

So, I'm all insured and legal now. Put on about 200mi since. During a dismount, I re-broke the rear left indicator which was previously broken/glued during the previous ownership. Now it's just flopping around until I remember to temporarily superglue it. That's got me looking at tail chops (Motodynamic, maybe Evotech) and integrated tail lights (Motodynamic). It's pretty grungy under the seat, so while I'm in there I might as well take apart the seat frame and give it all a good cleaning (reference earlier photo). That got me thinking--I could pull off the tank covers and give those a good cleaning as well as the handlebars. The tank covers seem to be missing bolts (again, reference earlier photo) and I saw a set of titanium bolts I could order from some website or another. And..and..and..........

welcome to the disease

Ha, riding along the beach to check out Spring Break developments, I realized that there are a lot of flat, straight roads here.  [roll]

Of course just before I got back home, the opportunity to throw some lean into a turn presented itself at a wide intersection, but I freaked out when I noticed all the puddles of car fluids directly in my arc of travel and wussed out.

Anyone want to buy the unused rubber from my sidewalls? [laugh]

I pulled off the tank covers, seat, and tail for cleaning & Evotech tail tidy install. Each of the side tank covers has four bolt holes near the front and three of them have threaded clips on the holes. Should there be four clips? Also, it looks like the previous owner took out the side covers' front 4(?) bolts and chucked them for whatever reason (the holes look rusty). Would I be able to find replacements bolts/clips at say...HD/Lowes, etc? Size? I think I need to stop by there anyway. While trying to steel brush+WD-40 away the rust developing on the factory tail, I scraped down to bare metal. I guess I should get some paint to touch it up.

Installed this week:

Evotech tail tidy
Integrated tail light (not sure how effective this is going to be, might switch back)
DP mini LED turn indicators (now I have 'two' sets of rear turn indicators functioning simultaneously)
Tankslapper 3M kit

Putting on the Speedymoto frame/fork/axle sliders and cleaning/lubing the chain this weekend. Sidi Adventure boots came in. The seat & tail have been in pieces on the floor for days due to a busy week at work, though I should get it back together tonight. Haven't gone for a ride in a week; weather is saying rain all weekend. *grrr*

thinking about a different exhaust yet?
 [evil]

Ok, I figured out the clips & missing bolts. Got everything done. Oil is a bit low, so I'm off to the store to top off and get some Goo Gone for the frame sticker residue. Should I be worried about the surface rust inside the hollow of the rear axle? I just installed the rear sliders over it...

Obligatory photo:

(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8187/img20130324162111.jpg)


Ha, I'm already planning to do it at the 7,500 mile service. :)

Quick question. Considering that I don't know what they put in at the last oil change, am I OK topping off with a quart or two of Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 until the 7500 mile service in a month?

Yes, they are all miscible. Where you live though, I'd definitely use a motorcycle 15W50 or 20W50 at the change.

Whatever you do, don't overfill it !!! Level is measured with the oil hot, give it 5 minutes to settle and have someone hold the bike vertical on its wheels while you check the sight glass. Rear stand is a no-no. Not even close...

Due to humidity?

No. Summer heat and traffic. 15W50 or 20W50 has a higher film strength with your high ambient temps. Humidity won't help your fuel mixture much though. ;)

Good luck down there in Flatlandia!

Update!

I tackled the 300 mile ride to Melillimoto in Ocala, FL and the odometer hit ~7540 just as I rolled onto the lot Thursday afternoon. Andrew was kind enough to address all of my inane questions and concerns as he dropped me off at a hotel up the street. After he picked me up and took me back to hang out at the dealership the next morning, I had the opportunity to ogle all the goodies in the storefront--848s, 1198s, Diavels, MTSs, HMTs, and even an S4Rs (already sold) among the newer Monsters. In addition to the owner and the factory rep who was there, a couple of guys who rode in on an S2R 1000 and a Sports Classic 1000 made for great bike talk. One of them, although a lurker, recommended I read every one of Duck-Stew's posts and memorize them.

Andrew and Adam performed the 7,500 mile service including belts, changed the tires (Pilot Road 3s), installed the Termi kit, changed front/rear sprockets and chain (15t, 48t, DID X-ring), and a laundry list of other small things. What can I say? The bike feels better now and I have more confidence in it, thanks to the guys at Melillimoto. Obligatory photo update:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img689/2482/img20130525135116.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/a/img845/7237/img20130525135101.jpg)

A big thanks goes out to Candice at Ca-Cycleworks for not only going out of her way to ensure my sprockets/chain were going to go out on time, but then upgrading me to Next Day shipping when she realized the rear sprocket wasn't in stock and that she'd have to get it overnighted to her. [clap]

Ugh, now I'm thinking about clipons, levers, and mirrors...

Sure looks a bit cleaner and happier now. 8) Did you get those oxidized bolts replaced too?

My philosophy, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". ;D Mods are fine if they address a deficiency or "modify" something which really bugs you. To change stuff for the sake of change often doesn't have a happy result. Your bike of course..., and an expression of your personality...

Wear ear plugs! ;) Any more power there? Or don't you know, since you did a 14T the better way. Keep that DID cleaned and lubed though. Should go 20K+ if you do.

Have Fun!

More power? Perhaps, or maybe I just like the sound of the exhaust as the RPMs go up! [evil]

Be it the gearing or perceived power increase, she's a bit quicker on her feet than before. They replaced some missing bolts and some that were chewed up by rust. The rear brake return spring is covered in rust, but he didn't have one in stock, so that's still there. Nonetheless, they tightened up the feel of the rear brake and got rid of its squealing. The exhaust is a hair farty at times during deceleration, but I'm beginning to prefer its general sound over the dB-killer's more stock sound.

Now, a couple of curious things. The ECU used to report "M696 ABS USA" and now it starts up with "M 696 ABS DP USA", but I've read that it should include "Racing" somewhere in there. I'm not too concerned as the indications are that the rev limiter has increased and she's feeling 'gutsier' in general. Also, two of the four bolts under the seat that hold the tail assembly to the subframe are stripped rather badly. I don't want to screw up the threads with tap & die and I'm not sure if I can successfully drill them out; I'm thinking of just riding to a machine shop and seeing what they can do. Finally, the right-side arm of the front fender is cracked (completely broken away) at the bolt.  >:( But now that I've already ridden away, I wonder how much fun that phone call is going to be! I'll probably work on these issues while I mull over handlebars vs clipons, grips, levers, headlights, and seats...