I've been digging through this site for hours and I can't find a good install thread.
The pipes I'm fine, but I am having difficulties with getting under the tank. I have successfully removed the skins from the tank, removed the lines, took the underside bolts from tank but it still feels VERY secured. What am I not doing properly to lift the tank?
Also, would this be a good time to do the charcoal canister removal? And, why do people remove it? Is there a benefit beyond aesthetics?
I'd appreciate any and all assistance.
Which model and year of Monster?
2011 796 non-ABS
there are several threads on airfilter installs, battery installs, ecu swaps, etc, all dealing with the same procedure to get to those areas.
but here's the short on your current position.
there are two sometimes three bolts for the tank.
left and right side and under the exhaust center mount.
it also helps to take the tool tray out.
then slide the tank backwards slowly wiggling it side to side.
if you left the fuel lines on, you can just turn the tank to the side, (cover your side rails with a towel for protection from the tank mounts.
if you took off the fuel lines, just put the tank on the floor.
oh and I grease the rubber mounts for easier removal next time.
as far as the canister... aesthetics
you will need a few things for that removal. a T-connector for the overflow tubing and the side replacement panel for the euro model (motowheels has it) and a couple of bolts (M6, I think, short - best to take have a kit full of bolts) to replace the nipples on the throttlebodies (plugs work short term, but eventually dry out and leak)
Thanks for the insight.
I've read plenty and searched plenty, but have yet to get a visual of what I'm missing.
I'll take the tool tray out and see what's shankin under there...
Wen I first tried to remove my tank I had the same issue, I finally found the wire from the left exhaust pipe was hooked to the bottom rear of the tank. After sliding the wire out of the hook the tank lifted right off!
Remember, 3 bolts, 2 on the frame, and one up under the back of the tank through the midpipe bracket. As noted above, the rear lambda sensor wire clips into the fuel pump cover. I pulled the cover, disconnected the fuel pump, and the fuel lines and pulled my tank completely off to make life easier. Use blue thread locker on your front tank bolts when you put it all together, one of mine vibrated free at some point. Mine was tough coming out because the rubber isolators were dry and sticking to the front mounting pins. A little grease and the tank went on like butter.
Quote from: freeclimbmtb on February 11, 2013, 10:05:41 AM
Remember, 3 bolts, 2 on the frame, and one up under the back of the tank through the midpipe bracket. As noted above, the rear lambda sensor wire clips into the fuel pump cover. I pulled the cover, disconnected the fuel pump, and the fuel lines and pulled my tank completely off to make life easier. Use blue thread locker on your front tank bolts when you put it all together, one of mine vibrated free at some point. Mine was tough coming out because the rubber isolators were dry and sticking to the front mounting pins. A little grease and the tank went on like butter.
I do not recomment the blue thread locker on the front bolt. and there should only be one front bolt. the other side you just slide in.
I'm pretty certain the factory used one bolt on the right (clutchside) front tank mount to allow some movement/expansion on the left.
+1 on the O2 sensor wire. I clipped mine onto the subframe instead.
Quote from: Raux on February 11, 2013, 10:31:42 AM
I do not recomment the blue thread locker on the front bolt. and there should only be one front bolt. the other side you just slide in.
I'm pretty certain the factory used one bolt on the right (clutchside) front tank mount to allow some movement/expansion on the left.
...interesting...
Raux is correct that there is only one front bolt (forgot which side) and the other side just slide in. I thought that the dealer forgot to put two bolts on, but later verified with the workshop manual and there is only one.
The bolt under the seat needs to be removed and I assumed that you got that one already and alsounhooked the O2 sensor wire. There are also hoses under the tank on the right side thatyou need to pop out. You don't need to remove all the hoses around the gas cap, I believe that I only remove the one that goes to the canister. I did not remove the hose organizer onthe left side ofthe bike.
Once all those are out, look for the area toward the rear of the tank where the front part of the seat meet the tank cover (the seat is off of course), stand on either side of the bike facing front or back, you should find two recesses on either side where you can put your fingers in to hold the tank and just lift it up. After that, push the tank backward so the two pins could clear out of the frame.
Thanks for your help gents, I'm happy to say it was a successful endeavor.
Now after plugging everything in, is there anything else's have to do? (I've heard rumors of reflashing via turning the key on and off a few times, but am unclear if that's actually necessary)
Quote from: mr5ev3n on February 10, 2013, 07:59:21 PM
2011 796 non-ABS
Didn't know any were imported!
You should be OK if your display doesn't read in kph instead of MPH. If so, somewhere here there are instructions for changing those settings. Just do a search.
Actually it did pop back on not in mph.
Weird.
This is how you change it.
1) Hold the mode switch up while you turn the key to on. Hold it up until the display reads "00000 PRO". Release switch.
2) Press the switch up until the display will read "UNIT SET"
3) Hold the switch down until display reads "US". Release switch.
4) Press the switch down until you get to the desired setting.
5)Hold the switch down until the display reads "MEM xx" then Release switch.
6) Turn key to off position.