Ducati Monster Forum

Hated the round headlight so I copied the headlight idea from a member I saw here (droopy wire on the left just hadnt been soldered and tucked away yet). The other images are a photoshop concept for the  tail section I will be making (fiberglass, stainless sheet and leather). The tank is the 900ss tank I recently purchased (also photoshopped). Im considering a half front fairing.
(http://s13.postimage.org/ergbr4ahj/CAM00030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
 (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/nelzxa9eb/CAM00031.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
 (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s18.postimage.org/886ftpjy1/Screen_shot_2013_03_07_at_10_17_25_AM.png) (http://postimage.org/)
 (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s3.postimage.org/p58vq0hqr/Screen_shot_2013_03_07_at_10_16_52_AM.png) (http://postimage.org/)
 (http://postimage.org/)

I really like the tank and seat - it's not too far off from what I've been thinking about for my little 620.

Where'd you source the light. Do they have round ones?

I like!  Where did you get that LED headlight?  It kinda looks like the Rigid unit I used but not.  How's the light output?

http://stores.ebay.com/Pirate-Manufacturing/Off-Road-Lighting-/_i.html?rt=nc&_fsub=595022119&_sid=6209449&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=1 (http://stores.ebay.com/Pirate-Manufacturing/Off-Road-Lighting-/_i.html?rt=nc&_fsub=595022119&_sid=6209449&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=1)

Not as bright as the Rigid and yes they have round lights. But I dont usually ride at night so it works fine for my needs. Besides, NYC is so bright at night (where I usually ride) a headlight is not really needed or helpful anyway.

The seat I will be making myself out of 10g stainless steel, fiberglass and custom leather (I do leather work).

 That is looking really sharp! I love what that tank does for the bike.

I like the flat top and the ability to see the vertical head. Maybe come late summer/early fall I will ditch the battery and put a LifePo 4 in the tail unit when funds allow.

neat!  Is that rear hugger a piece of sheet metal held down with the center screw?

No its a steel fender. I think its from an old dirtbike that I cut down. It was held in place by the center screw on the SA and a couple brackets. Ditched it currently.

Have you thought about painting the swing arm and the forks black?

Looking good, liking the half fairing  [thumbsup].

Have you thought about using some Sport Classic spoked wheels ? I'm running them on my M900 and the conversion is pretty simple, if a boofhead like me can DIY anyone can.

Honestly I feel that spokes are too retro for the monsters modern lines and feel. If I could afford it I would go the route of marchesini wheels.
I was also considering coloring the forks (vinyl). Def not black. White maybe. In the end the bike will be black and white with red accents.
Swing arm? Not sure. Vinyl wrap it? I dunno...

This is pretty cool:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bultaco-Metralla-Mk2-quarter-fairing-front-competition-cowl-UNIVERSAL-CAFE-STYLE-/251178322009?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7b650859&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bultaco-Metralla-Mk2-quarter-fairing-front-competition-cowl-UNIVERSAL-CAFE-STYLE-/251178322009?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7b650859&vxp=mtr)

That headlight is fugly.  :P

Fugly happens...

I like 'em....excuse the ugly it was early Sunday morning

(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/a7b2dce5-5665-430c-95e1-395e31219ca9_zpsae6a0396.jpg)

As I have mentioned I am switching to an ss tank. It was listed as a 96/97. Anyone know if the filler cap from my 99 monster tank will fit the ss? Its coming without the entire cap, just a big ass hole.
If not maybe I will get one of those keyless racing caps...

Monster fuel cap will fit into the fuel cap flange that goes into the SS tank.  Seems like you'll need a fuel cap flange.  (This is used to allow enough room to get one's arm into the tank to install the OE electric fuel pump which is low-pressure on the 91-98 SS bikes, and high pressure on the injected Monsters and SS bikes.)

Since your bike is a '99, you *may* need to install the OE low-pressure fuel pump but maybe not.  Depends on the position of the fuel petcock and the float bowls of the carbs.  If sufficient height difference is there, you could just get away with a gravity fill of the float bowls.

Thanks DS. I started a gas cap thread here http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=62273.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=62273.0)

Will the stock monster fuel pump be insufficient? The plan is to run the line out to a manual shutoff >inline filter>stock pump>FCR's.

Stock pump will suffice. Just plumb the supply to the pump from the return port so as to pull from the lowest point in the tank.

Your proposed routing is fine.

the return line in a carby ss tank is a tube that goes up to the front of the tank from memory.  i think you'll need an in tank pump or to cut the in tank tubes at the base of the tank.

Brad's memory is pretty good.  ;)

I dont get it but once its here and im looking at it im sure it will make better sense. (or a diagram perhaps?) Thank you

I was thinking of the injected SS tanks which return fuel directly to the floor of the tank (which makes them a great supply port).  Brad's right (as per usual).  The Carbed SS tanks have a return pipe which runs up to the front of the tank near the roof making them a poor supply port for a gravity fuel feed...

Understood. So I can run the standard fuel out to an external pump like on the monster? Im getting confused (as per usual).
Or, as stated, do I gotta get in there and cut down the metal tube?

You'll need to either cut the tube, or run an internal low pressure pump.

The fact that the ss tank incorporates a return allows you to run a pump with a bit more pressure without as much concern  regarding overcoming the needles.

+1

Ok. So for an aftermarket solution, what psi are we talking for an internal pump?

Something like this would be ideal, but it isn't very affordable... https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6551 (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6551)

I'm not sure how much pressure the SS pumps ran. I'll try to find out.

You'll also need a sender with a feed for the pump if you go internal.

You should wait to get the tank and look before you decide which route you're going to take.

True. The sending unit might be in there still. Didnt ask. Seems like the internal route is more complicated but cleaner looking. Yes, when the tank gets here I will asses what to do.
On another note someone was asking about my dash area. So here are some pics of that cobbled arrangement. I plan to make a nicer bracket when time allows...The little light is for fuel level.
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2wr0x8l.jpg)
(http://i45.tinypic.com/kefer5.jpg)

Ingenuitive however i MUST ask.  Is that indicator light being held on with a ground rod clamp??

You got it. Nice gold color. Simple application. I love the neat bits one can find at Home Depot.

you can use the ie pump in the carby bikes with the open return, which is effectively no pressure unless you have a bad return system.  the fp-916 ca cycleworks sell works fine.  those pumps don't actually flow that much, but they will flow it to a high pressure.  try pumping an ie tank out with the fuel pump (externally powered), it takes much longer than i first expected.

I think the most inexpensive route is to cut down the internal fuel outlet tube so that it feeds as low as possible and then run my stock monster pump or if my carbs require an electric I will get one with appropriate psi and hide it somewhere under the tank.
I just hope I can get in there easily enough to trim the tube. It will be arriving tomorrow as well as my vernier calipers and a closer shim tool.  [clap] ;D

I think what I want is to make this as simple as possible: a hole in the top for the gas to go in, a hole in the bottom for tge gas to go out, and a vent hose.

Don't forget to plug the unused fuel pipe.

[thumbsup]

Still need to relocate the ignition but I just HAD to throw it on there. The hinge is connected, the nose isnt.
I assume that the two wires in there coming off of the fuel sensor go to the stock ss pump right?
 (http://i47.tinypic.com/30djcsw.jpg)

Yes.

If you run the stock ss pump pay attention to polarity. They'll spin the wrong way.

Those clip-ons are SOOOO low.  I feel bad for your wrist/back!

the two wires in the monster loom are for the fuel level sensor.  the ss has four wires, them and two for pump power.  or did i missunderstand the question?

I think so.

I took it as the two wires in the tank from the sensor.

He'll have to provide a feed if he goes with an internal pump.

Thats what I thought. Seeing as I am not going to run an internal pump (cutting and capping tubes internally to suit) can I just cut and seal those twowires and connect the external wiring from the fuel level to my harness? If it doesnt work I guess I can either try to hardwire it or scrap using a fuel level altogether.

As far as the bar height goes, its just fine. If it aint low, it gots ta go. Lol

If you're not going to feed voltage to them, just clip them off.

Ok.

In curious how the tank attaches. The rear uses the hinge? What about the front?

Instead of cutting the in tank pipe, is it possible to run an in tank hose to a low part of the tank?

That method would reduce the gravity effect of the system and require that the pump suck fuel up the hose to the pipe.

Then I wouldnt cut, I'd use an internal hose and suck it out with the oem external pump or alternative pump. Mind you I agree the SS internal pump is a cleaner look without potential fuel issues (especially with pumper FCRs). The SS tank is unmolested in case m wants to go back or change later.

Actually, when I think about it, the oem hex pump is pretty industrial and nasty looking.

If he made a gentle arc and fastened the end of the hose at the bottom so it stayed put...zip tied to the pipe?...it would probably work, provided his OEM pump is functioning correctly.

I would use a metal hose connector fitting to run a small gauze bag filter on the end of the hose. With the metal insert it could be clamped or wired to the pipe quite firmly, or something like that.
 I dont know which zip ties handle fuel, but there should be a brand that does.

Interesting to see which way m goes. I have to do so something similar on a bike for different reasons.

I don't know if I'd bother with the strainer. He'll still be running an external filter, and the strainer is just there to keep big chunks out of the pump...which he isn't using...

but I'm lazy. ;)

Interesting idea with the loop of fuel line. I could use a stainless steel zip tie. Would have to find submersible fuel line though.
Question about the oem pump. Seeing that it is vacuum operated, does height relation to the fuel outlet play a role? Im considering making a mount off of the battery tray which would put the pump at par with the outlet with the possibility of it being higher.
Question 2 about the oem vac pump: will it be ok with FCR'S, or do they operate better with an electric pump or does it not matter?

My experience with any pump is that they push better than they suck. The stock monster configuration provides gravity feed to the pump, and then the pump pushes up to the carbs.

I'll let Koko answer about the volume capability of the stock pump with FCRs. I haven't installed mine yet.

If I was doing this mod I would use an in tank pump. The tank is set up for it, and it will eliminate any overpressure problems because it has a return. Brad made a good point regarding the high pressure pump in your application. It will work regarding pressure, but the volume capabilities with FCRs is  not known. I think it will be adequate for your 750. The high pressure pump will fit in the stock bracket inside the tank with the rubber sleeve. It gives you another option for used parts and will clean up the install.

As far as submersible line goes, it would be ideal, but in your low pressure situation isn't crucial. The overflow and drain hoses in an efi tank are nothing special and my experience shows they last a long time. Submersible high pressure fuel line is $25/foot with my discount at NAPA. I think regular reinforced line will be fine.

You'll need the submersible fuel line. The regular EFI line will degrade over time an leave a helluva mess.

It's expensive @ $25/foot, but I haven't found an alternative.

How does Ducati get away with that junk they use for the drain and o/flow hoses?

It seems to hold up ok.

About the lines: What about Tygon? Isnt it fuel resistant and same material on the outside as well as in? McMaster has it pretty cheaply.

About the pump situation. I have not cut anything yet. Still considering options. Just looked on eBay and saw this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190808255283&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190808255283&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en)
Or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-Fuel-Pump-for-Ducati-800SS-2003-2007-/281038399612?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416f31a87c&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-Fuel-Pump-for-Ducati-800SS-2003-2007-/281038399612?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416f31a87c&vxp=mtr)
A shame bc I just bought a used ss tank flange by itself. I guess I could just resell it if I decide to buy the above...sigh....

Saw this on mcmaster: (posting the url didnt work)
(http://i50.tinypic.com/2wh30qe.png)

Relocated the ignition so the tank nose clears it (still gotta cut the metal part where the stock tank latch connects-would never line up with the ss tank anway). Might keep the fasteners, might weld tabs.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/dmtzqu.jpg)

I'd go with the OEM pump because it has the rubber sleeve.

You need 5/16" id fuel line...don't see it on that chart.

Agreed. The other one looks suspiciously chinese (bad grammar). I may be wrong though. I wrote to Pinwall to see if they will sell me only the pump cuz I got the other stuff already. We'll see...
Another tubing that has very high fuel resistance from mcmaster is called Viton (5/16"). It even comes in green!
It is a Fluoroelastomer Tubing (whatever the hell that is).

Are all the lines 5/16"? (fuel outlet, carb, etc?) I'd go bust out the calipers to check but its currently snowing in nyc.  [puke]

The SS and Monster pumps both give heaps of fuel no worries. They'll both flood FCRs with dirty fuel. M's got the big alternator?

The only place you need to worry is in the tank.

One foot of the NAPA hose will do it, and if you don't pay shipping it will most likely be less than buying from McMaster and add shipping. It is supposedly that same fluoroelastomer compound, but is black.

Perhaps. I'll see if theres a NAPA in brooklyn. And I dont have to wait which is worth a million.

I think the part# is H-209

The problem comes with high pressure hose that is reinforced.  The inside is ethanol resistant, but the outside is not, may not even be gasoline resistant.  The outside wrapper goes, then the textile, then tragedy.

If he was running a high pressure system I'd understand the issue, but he isn't.

Am I missing something?

the submersible hose is labelled SAE R10.  if it doesn't have that, its not specifically rated for use in petrol.  diesel and alcohols are different to petrol (sorry, gas).

Nope, any low pressure hose should work as long as it is ethanol/gasoline resistant.

the hoses that are single wall, generally referred to as vacuum hose, are usually petrol resistant.  most fuel hose are dual layer tho, both low and high pressure, and have an inner that is fuel resistant, a woven reinforcing layer, then the outer which is generally not fuel resistant.

the little hose ducati use in the tanks is just a single layer hose, so no worries.  the hoses they use in a 916 tank from cap recess to pump plate will be resistant.  there was a recall years ago to replace some of the hoses in some of them.  i have some r10 stuff that is really stiff, and kind of a pita.

The NAPA product has the correct rating

Got it. Thanks for the wisdom guys.

Whelp, Pinwall Cycles refuses to separate the pump from the fuel sensor and cap flange they are selling. Wish I had seen that before  [bang].
So if I go for aftermarket/auto parts store, any idea what pump I can use?? Any low pressure (3psi) pump will do?

If you utilize the return, pressure isn't very important as there is no stoppage of flow and no pressure build up..

That's why the high pressure efi pump would work.

You'll still have to cut a tube inside the tank to use an external pump.

The OEM setup is the best alternative to an in tank pump, IMO, as it will utilize the bracket already there.

 Have you checked the assortment of fuel pumps at JCK Whitless?

After looking into the situation more I have decided to agree with you and do an internal set up. Pinwall Cycles has an OEM ss pump with a fuel sensor and a tank flange for $35 or so. I'm guessing that I would be hard pressed to find an aftermarket that fits the mount for that price. Agree?

Absolutely...

and the supply of replacements if that one ever fails is almost endless.

It occurd to me that it might be wise to check the sending unit. Its from '96. Do they go bad? How would I go about checking for continuity?

Senders go bad regularly.

Point it so the wires are up. You should have infinite resistance.

Turn it over...you should have continuity.

It tests fine. Thanks. One thing I noticed was that the monster fuel connector to harness has only two wires. A light signal and a line to the fuses n what not. The ss connector off the tank has 4: a ground, a light signal, and two others going to the fuses and other components.
I recon the  pump alone needs a ground and probably the red/black wire.



Im honestly not all that concerned about having a fuel light, however it will be necessary to have power to the pump. Anyone mind clarifying?:,

The other two wires are for the pump, obviously. One power and one ground

You can feed the pump from any switched source, like the fuel light circuit, or you can add an inline fuse off the main power relay that feeds the fuse box. I'd feed it separately because the pump load might be a bit much for the light circuit.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your bike?

If not, you can use the diagram from almost any carbed monster to figure out where things are.

Sounds good. I have a Haynes manual for the monster and ss so all diagrams are there. I will just take a look at what amp fuse is listed for the pump and wire it in.

On the main power wire that feeds the fuse box (a big red one I believe), can I just cut the insulation off about 1/2" and then solder on the new fused wire leading to the fuel sensor>fuel pump? Then protect the union of course...
Which reminds me, I need to buy more flux.

You could...you'd have to seal/insulate it back up.

You could also use a blank spot in the fuse panel on the power side...I think there's an empty spot. You'd have to check to see if it's fed.

You should be using rosin core solder for electrical work. Don't use acid flux, or acid core solder.

Fuse spot is open but its not fed. I'll figger something out. As for my solder I just have the kind you can get at Radio aShack. I figure if its good for motherboards its probably fine for cycles.

Some seat modification... Its actually much more comfortable than stock. And even though it looks like I'd slide my nuts into the tank it doesnt happen. But we'll see during a hard stop  [laugh].
Note that this is just in the interim until I can make a proper "cafe" type seating with a fiberglass tail section.
 
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2pobm00.jpg)

That OEM fuel pump just arrived. It lacks that baggie thing for catching large debris. Do I need it really?
I figure I dont especially since I have clear access to the tank and can get it really clean before the full install.

Is the pre-filter necessary?  My vote: yes.  Take the pump to an auto parts store that's of a higher caliber than your local Zone of Auto and have them see if they can fit a pre-filter from an automotive application. 

But, it's your call.  Pump could last forever like that...  I've never ran w/o one.

I like that gauge Stu put on Warrens Bike it was super clean.

+1...not worth the chance.

If you can't find one let me know...I might be able to get my hands on a used one cheap.

I gotta make a trip to NAPA anyways. Hopefully they will have something I can use. Thanks guys

Havent been to NAPA yet but I went to three auto supply stores and there seems to be a massive shortage of 5/16" fuel line (for going to the carbs). I guess thats what happens in the ghetto of Brooklyn, lol.

http://vimeo.com/10089801 (http://vimeo.com/10089801)

So Im looking at my sending unit more closely and it doesnt match up to the diagram. Diagram: Black/Lt.Blue/Red/Brown-White. My sending unit: Black/Red/White/Black.

Question:
-Can I do this perhaps: One of the blacks and the white go to the fuel light on my dash. And the other black and the red tie into the harness leading to the fuse panel.

Sure...as long as the red and black go through the sender into the tank.

You can check with an ohm meter.

Just be sure you choose a circuit with enough capacity for the pump

Yes. The wires Im referring to are the four coming off the sender. I was gonna tie red coming off the sender to the main red on the harness that is running between the battery and the fuse box. Sound ok?

As long as the pair outside are the ones to the pump then yes.

Is that wire switched?

You'll need to add a fuse.

Not switched on the main red coming from the batt. I did plan on using an inline fuse, per your advice prior. Any suggestion on what amp to try?

I'd run a 15 amp fuse but you said you had a diagram for an SS. What does it show?

If it isn't switched how do you turn off the pump?

I got it. That was dumb. Didnt notice the "fuse amp key" on the diagram corner either...  [clap]
And you are correct, it is a 15 amp fuse. I think my drawing is right. I just wonder if I still would need an inline fuse where the circle is indicated.
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2wbw3e8.jpg)

If you do it that way, using the kill switch, the power source to the kill switch is already fused at 7.5 amps for the ignition. That will be the current limiter, and with the sensitivity of the ignition boxes I wouldn't use it.

I don't think the battery is directly wired to the fuse panel though. Because that would mean nothing is switched. Are you sure you're reading the wiring diagram correctly?


I'd tap off the feed side of the fuse panel and just add a 15 amp fuse.

You have 2 fuse slots not used unless they were used  by a previous owner.  I don't remember if the hot side of the fuse is powered or what the bottom of the fuse box looks like, but best would be to power the pump with a relay since it is a 15 amp circuit.  It should shut down with both the ignition switch and the kill switch.  To save me a bunch of typing go here http://www.ducatiusa.com/services/maintenance/index.do (http://www.ducatiusa.com/services/maintenance/index.do) for a 2001 900 Monster and follow the fuel pump circuit on that wiring diagram.  Back of the owners manual.  One reason for the relay is so the pump will shut off with the kill switch and ignition switch.  The other is so you are not running the pump through a 7.5 amp circuit.

As far as what gauge wire to use, 18 for under 10', 14 for 15-20' and 12 for more..  I would suggest keeping it simple and use 14 gauge.

Here is the diagram for my '99 M. Below is the '96 ss diagram.
I just tried to copy what the ss diagram showed.

(http://i45.tinypic.com/id543q.jpg)

(http://i48.tinypic.com/35clabt.jpg)

I guess you're good then.

What is the rating of the #2 fuse in the monster fuse panel?

15 amps.
I am using 16g wire. It should be fine.

Ah, it seems they are not using a relay and, from what I can see, are running through the kill switch.  My guess is that pump draws significantly less than 15 amps, which is not surprising since most high pressure pumps draw less than 8 amps.  Without the whole diagram  I cant be sure, but my guess is the fuel pump fuse is protecting more than the fuel pump circuit.

On electric pump bikes they kill the fuel.

On vacuum pumped bikes the switch kills ignition.

Does that fuse match the rating on the key?

edit...

I'm in the process of scanning the diagram from my owners manual.

I believe you have the wrong fuse in the #2 position. My bike is older, but the components are the same...stand by.

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8097/8588506343_752a27f812_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/26408631@N02/8588506343/)
Monster wiring (http://www.flickr.com/photos/26408631@N02/8588506343/#) by nh_painter (http://www.flickr.com/people/26408631@N02/), on Flickr

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8379/8589606590_6426743903_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/26408631@N02/8589606590/)
Monster wiring key (http://www.flickr.com/photos/26408631@N02/8589606590/#) by nh_painter (http://www.flickr.com/people/26408631@N02/), on Flickr

Check your fuse panel. As you can see from the factory diagram and key the #2 fuse is 7.5 amps and controls the ignition. If you follow the flikr links you can zoom in on the photos. I wouldn't put the pump load on that circuit with the ignitior boxes. The SS harness cuts the pump, and might also cut the ignition.

Your bike being newer might be different, but without seeing the whole Haynes diagram to be sure, I can't tell.

The fuse rating I stated was taken right out of my haynes manual fuse key. Wish i could scan the whole thing but my scanner is busted. Maybe i can piece together a couple of photos.

There is a fuse key on the lid of the fuse panel.

What does it say?

When I get home i will have a look

you are correct. 7.5 amp fuse on the label on the box as well as in slot #2. Wonder why the manual says 15?
I am splicing a couple of photos now of my diagram. One sec...

Hopefully you can read this ok..

(http://i49.tinypic.com/jgi53m.jpg)

Im really not sure what to do now... ???

Because it's wrong. ;D

The kill switch circuit on the monster kills the ignition by breaking the ground leg.

Can you post up the entire wiring diagram you have of the SS?

If it kills both the pump and ignition you can wire it the way you suggested. If it only kills the ignition, I'd find a different way to wire the pump. I'd probably wire it off the main relay or the ignition switch with it's own fuse.

The only reason I say this is the ignition boxes are fragile, and sensitive to voltage spikes. They are also very expensive.

ss wiring '94-'96
(http://i50.tinypic.com/23wpudt.jpg)

Ok. So youre saying on the monster diagram, the safest route is to tie into the red line that runs between the General Relay and the Ignition with a 15 amp fuse in between the pump and the tie in location?
Or is it the Red/Yellow coming off of the general relay?

Whichever one gets live when you switch on the key.

I believe it's the Brown wire.

The way I read the diagram is the red and red/yellow are hot all the time and feed the relay through the main 30A fuse in the fuse panel, the orange/blue comes from the ignition switch and switches the relay, and the brown feeds the fuse panel.

A voltmeter will confirm.

From the SS diagram it doesn't look like the kill switch switches the pump, which makes sense as there is no relay.

Ah I understand. Thanks.

And I can just ground the pump to the frame with a lug right?

Yes you can ground to the frame.  I don't have an SS wiring diagram, but I would guess the pump is killed through the main relay with the kill switch.  AIAIK, all bikes when new have some means of shutting the fuel off in case of an accident to help prevent spillage of fuel and fire.

After looking more closely at your ss diagram they do kill the pump with the power side of the kill switch and the ignition on the ground side.

I don't see how it interacts with the ignition or main relay in the diagram though.

Ok. So tying into the brown wire that feeds the fusebox is not ok?

That will work, but it won't kill the pump unless you turn off the ignition.

If you want to kill the pump with the kill switch it seems like that's OK after looking at the diagrams again. It's the way Ducati did it evidently.

The diagrams in the Haynes manual leave a few things out, or I just can't see them.

According to howie the pump load is within the rating of the fuse in the panel that feeds the kill switch.

Give it a shot.

Ok. I will just open the insulation a bit on the brown wire inbetween the fuses and the general relay and just wrap the pumps hot wire there and see what happens when the ignition is switched on. Doing this today. Will report back. Thank you for the immense help fellas.

Howie is assuming this, but, when trying to find an appropriate SS wiring diagram he (I) came across a post by Shazzam (remember him?) that states a carby SS pump draws max 5 amps.  Maybe a DMFr could measure amp draw on theirs since we all know what assume means.

So a 15 amp inline fuse would be too high? If it needs to be lower I can swap out the fuse easy enough.
Or are you suggesting that the amperage on the path (brown to fuses) chosen might be too much for the pump?

Can't answer much without a proper, accurate wiring diagram.  Again, I have no idea why Ducati uses a 15 amp fuse for the pump.

No, that feed would be safe for the pump...the circuit does not provide amperage. The device draws amperage and the circuit must be capable of handling that load.  I would have no issues wiring it into that brown wire with a 15 amp fuse using 16 gauge wire and letting the ignition switch handle the switching through the relay.

The question is that we don't know...

a) what the pump draws

b) if the wiring on the Monster is different from the SS to accommodate a 15 amp fuse...because that is the purpose of the fuse...protecting the wiring.
If the monster uses lighter gauge wire in the ignition circuit than an SS and you install a 15 amp fuse and you get high resistance at a coil you could burn up your harness if you use the kill switch as in the Haynes diagram with a 15 amp fuse in the panel. If you stick with the 7.5 amp fuse you would be safe.

c) If the Haynes manual is correct about the 15 amp fuse...there are enough inconsistencies in that wiring diagram to make me suspicious.

So you think I should go out and get a 7.5amp fuse to drop in the inline carrier?
Just a note, when I pulled the fuse cover a 15amp fuse was in the 2nd slot. I put in a 7.5 to match the label.

It seems like I was able to download a Ducati Parts manual and some other Manual from Ducati a few years ago i printed it all out. This was for my 750 Monster. Ill look around and see if I can find those links. The Hanes manuals never seem to be as good as the Shop Manual.

Well it works! No fuses tripped and my harness is still in tact. Off to buy a prefilter for the pump

Sorry no Maint. Manal. What I found was an IPC


http://www.ducatiomaha.com/products.asp (http://www.ducatiomaha.com/products.asp)

If you wire it through the kill switch like you originally proposed leave the 7.5 in the panel and don't bother with another fuse as the circuit is already fused.

If you tap in to the brown relay wire you can use any fuse that will protect whatever gauge wire you use or is already in the harness. In a house they use 15 amps to protect 14 gauge wire. I'd probably use that for your 16 gauge. Some would recommend a lower amp fuse, but in a DC circuit too low a rated fuse can actually increase resistance and cause other problems. That's why it would be nice to really know what Ducati used in the SS.

I'll see if I can find out.

edit...

Ducati did in fact use a 15 amp fuse in that circuit on the SS. The only time it is probably required is if the pump screen or filter gets dirty and puts more load on the pump.

You can try it with the 7.5 or a 10 and just carry spares or run a 15.

All seems to be fine so far.
Q: what is the hole on the top of the pump? Its a little shaped hole between the terminals. It has a small metal piece inside and under that a spring.

The idea is to make sure it doesn't become an issue and strand you.

Don't know...pic?

All I can think of is that its a plug for the fuel light which connects to the sending unit in the tank. My current sender only has the two wires to power the pump. Meaning my pump and sender are from different models. No biggie I guess I can just fill it with gas resistant sealant or epoxy.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/o7ug7m.jpg)

Also, while we're on the topic, the run/kill switch is 15amps. The starter button is...30?

The circuit that feeds the starter button is whatever you run for a fuse in position #2. It operates the starter through the solenoid which is a relay fed directly off the battery. It's a different deal.

That square hole between the spade connectors?  I'd leave it alone.  I don't think it's anything 'wrong'.  

"My current sender only has the two wires to power the pump.  Meaning my pump and sender are from different models."  Yes.  The sender wires just go to the sender and they don't extend to the inside of the tank.  Only the wires which extend from the fuel sender are used to power the pump.

Just found my red owners manual after 30 min of searching  [clap]. It is confirmed that slot #2 is 7.5 amps.
Thanks Stew for the clarification.

About my question regarding the starter and run/kill switches. I was inquiring because I have an idea to re route and "re-button/switch" the hand controls in order to clean up the look of the bars. The idea is to get a sealed push momentary switch for the starter and a mini rocker switch for the run/kill. Both will be moved to those gussets near the neck with the nickel sized hole in them. Obviously the new switches need to be of correct amperage which is 7.5, yes?

If you can find a 12V 7.5 amp rated switch that will fit where you want to put it...

I'll buy it for you. ;D

To answer the question...they need to be rated for at least 7.5 amps, You'll most likely source switches rated for much more than that.

That's what I've seen so far...
*edit: there are none and I even looked on serious electronics sites. No 7.5 12v switches.
But I must ask, what's the danger in running say a 10amp 12v rocker (SPST) on a 7.5amp circuit? I can see the problem of using a lesser rated switch but I see no issue using a slightly greater one.

No danger as far as I know. The weak link should be the fuze.

Most switches are rated for 120V

Use whatever you want                                         

Just a thought. Shouldn't the switch/button be waterproof? Or does it not matter?

The OEM switches aren't.

It wouldn't be a bad thing, but would add to the cost.

I'd say it's a relief valve so the pump will still flow fuel if the outlet gets blocked.

So blocking it off wouldn't be a good idea.

Talk about a good way to blow the fuse... :P

Really? There are +/- markings on either side...

What do i do about the return line both externally and internally? As of now inside the metal tube just goes up and is open ended. Externally i tied it into the drain line with a Y connector.

The +/- markings are for the electrical terminals.

The terminals have them as well as the hole thingy. Anyways I figured the return pipe connects to the vent hole on the gas cap.
New issue: turned on the ignition, pump started whirring, I open the manual fuel tap and gas just started gushing out of the carb overflow lines. Any idea whats going on?

Check the float bowls, sounds like they might be stuck in the down position.

Thats what I was thinking.

What tells the pump to stop pumping? Does it get a sense when the float chambers are full and stops pumping? I ask because I turned the key and let it sit that way for 30 seconds and the pump never shut off. I thought pumps ran for a sec when the ignition was turned on but then it stops. And only come on when necessary. Do I have the wrong understanding? (Highly likely)

You absolutely need to run a return from the fitting where the fuel supply connects to the carbs back to the return fitting on the tank. Just install a fuel line tee.

Otherwise the pump pressure will overcome the needles and you'll have serious problems. We discussed that several pages back.

edit...the pump doesn't stop pumping...ever. On an FI system the ecu controls the time the pump runs. You have no ecu.

Ah yes. I understand now. I might be able to just use the Y fitting thats down there now. Ugh. Im off now to drain the tank...

I don't think its that sophisticated. On most cars pumps run when needed. On one of my GM cars the pump would run when the ignition was turned on, but stop after 2 seconds if there was no distributor pulse sent to the ECU.

The fuel ran in a loop past the throttle body injector and the injector took that fuel pressure supply with injector "On" time as required.
But basically the fuel ran in a continuous loop from the pump back to the tank.

Ive never paid that much attention to motorcycle electric pump systems except for the pump on my VFR that used breaker points to turn the pump on and off. I don't know whats wrong with gravity feed systems for carbed bikes. I had several that used that system with very little problem.

There is a fitting on the cap holder that connects to the small tube inside your tank. That is to drain water from the cap area.

Gravity works as long as the fuel level is above the fuel feed on the carbs. On a Monster tank there is a bunch of fuel below the fuel inlet on the carbs.

Yes. I have the beveled filler cap nipple going to the drain outlet. The other filler cap nipple is connected to the brass return line (internally).
Outside the tank, ot knowing what to do, i joined the drain and the return. I know now that it is the fuel outlet and the return that are to be joined.

Because the old SS tank has a vent on top and doesn't use the second fitting you need to remove the cap holder and disconnect that other nipple from the return line or fuel will spray out of that fitting.

Get a 1/4" vacuum cap from Autozone and cap the fitting on the cap holder.

If you don't understand pm me and we can talk on the phone.

I sent my number but I think I get what to do.
Right, the tank can vent from the breather hose on the top of the tank. And the brass return line inside...you just leave it alone, letting it point to the roof of the tank?

(sorry that fitting a damn gas tank and pump has taken 11 pages  :P)

I'm going to differ here.  The quality of vaccuum caps in the last 10 or so years has gone to total crap.  Use a piece of clear vynil tubing and put a bolt into the other end.  It'll last & last & last...

Noted.
And to lighten the mood here is a fun pic:
(http://i47.tinypic.com/294ksux.jpg)

Don't ever be sorry. ;D

 [beer]

While I wait to fix the fuel routing mistake I will ask another electrical question.
I found really cool switches. Expensive but weather proof, stainless steel, black, and lit.
They rate at 12v 10a. Just fine for the kill and starter buttons. But the buttons I'm looking at (PlasmaGlow) have a small LED ring light for when the switch is activated. 7.5a would cook the LEDs in a second.
I called them but no answer to see if the switches ha a built in resistor. I'm guessing no.
Considering my set up, what size resistor might I need for the two start switches?

I doubt the led carries any of the load.

I'd have to see a switch diagram to be sure.

Fuel tank situation established. No pump issues yet.

So while measuring shims and trying to get the closer shims out (heh heh) I was looking at my belt pulleys. I run the belts with no covers and don't ever plan on putting them back on. Therefore the plastic backsides are not really necessary right? Can I remove them? I know I need a special tool or a modified socket in order to do this. I wonder if I can cut them off if I'm careful...

there's two screws holding them in that can only be accessed by removing the pullies.  you could cut off what you can get to, but there is some steel in the backing at least.

Well, it was just a thought. Maybe I will try making a tool out of some steel tube or an old socket or something when more important jobs aren't on the docket.

Valves:

Just took out all the shims one at a time. The intimidation of valves is a ruse. Hardest part was dealing with the battery box. Below are my findings. Im not too sure what to do now. I believe I need to order larger closing shims but not certain on what size(s). Monday I will check out the clearances with a feeler gauge. Totally forgot to do that  :-\

Vertial Head
-Int:   Openers: 8.20mm
         Closers: 8.08mm

-Exh:  Openers: 8.52mm
         Closers: 7.98mm

Horizontal Head
-Int:   Openers: 8.24mm
         Closers: 8.25mm

-Exh: Openers: 8.55mm
        Closers: 8.05mm

Usually people measure clearances first and then the shims.

Yeah...I wanted to get in there and got too intent on the shim removal process that I totally spaced  ???

Checking the clearances is sort of the whole point. You may not need to do anything to the closers. Id put em all back and then see what you have.

Check this out.

http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/adjust/index.html (http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/adjust/index.html)

And this..


http://youtu.be/dIj3nSJGPZw (http://youtu.be/dIj3nSJGPZw)

Yes, yes, I know...I have read that article and seen the video many times. Thank you though. It happens sometimes when Im working on my bike. I get so excited and do 5 things all at once and sometimes forget stuff (ha). Like today, I redid all my fluids and rerouted some wiring while also playing with the valves. No biggie. Will get to them monday.

Have you looked at this article on cam degreeing?

http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/rebuild/headwork.html (http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/rebuild/headwork.html)

I have to admit on this topic im a bit out of my depth. The thing that interests me is that they do this on 750's and it was my understanding that there is not much you can do with a 750 other than the lighened flywheel, clutch, and FCR's

It's something I have mentally toyed with. I'm still studying timing at the moment.

I wonder what they would charge for a set of  750 heads? I plan on getting some FCR's and some other stuff this summer.

Good on ya. FCRs next later this month for me.  [clap] (been saving my pennies for a while now)

Just measured the Horizontal valves.
Exhaust

O: less than .0015 (went in but pretty snugly)
C: .001 unloaded

Intake

O: less than .0015 (same as exhaust)
C: .0025 unloaded

Another little hang up. The camshaft was binding on the Horizontal head. What causes binding??
I probably installed the closing shim wrong or something.
Also on both pulleys they spun freely until it got to the lobe. Then some friction as if rotating upon a spring. Once past it frees up again. Normal?

So I just checked the horizontal cam/rockers again (intake side). If I manually spin the pulley it loosely goes around until it reaches the top rocker lobe. It will pass over the lobe and feels quite stiff (always has so I don't know if its supposed to feel like this). Shortly after clearing the lobe it stops. This occurs clockwise as well as counter clockwise.

I removed the opener shim and slid the top rocker aside (quite difficult-lots of upward pressure was felt). Once aside the cam spun as it once did--freely until the lobe(s) and then some stiffness going over the lobes then freely again. But the pulley went all the way round.

Put the top rocker back on (lots of jiggling and a bit of pushing--very snug), and once again the pulley can go mostly around and then gets jammed. WTF did I do??

*Edit: just watched the video again and the lobes should not be rubbing at all. I most definitely would not be able to turn 360 with one finger.

There is a closer assist spring on the valves to aid starting. They remove them on race bikes.

It's normal to feel the cam get hard to turn when you try to open the valve and overcome that spring.

The binding the video is referring to is when you turn the cam a few degrees. You're trying to feel the rocker rubbing on the cam with the valve closed. That would mean your closer was too tight.

I felt none on the horizontal cam then.
But if you chk out the feeler measurements i just posted for the horiz intake, they are pretty tight. Had a tough time pushing down the rocker to even check. Yes, motor was at proper TDC for that cylinder.
Highly confused. But im determined.

Openers are tight. Closers are loose. Pretty normal for most motors under 18K.

You can sand the openers, but you'll need to replace the closers.

Not sure what you're confused about.

Mostly about how now after reassembly the cam stops after going over the lobe.

*Edit: i just realized that when i worked on the valves i put a bolt on oil galley hole. Its probably still in there causing the binding! Duh. Will confirm tomorrow.

Well i dont know the tolerances by heart and im not looking at the specs but .004 is too tight for sure.

Nope. No bolt in there. But I realized the problem. It's dumb so I won't go on about it. Monday I will be sanding and doing math for shims. Sure glad I pre-measured them all to make it a bit easier. FCR kit will be ordered on Mon as well.
I'm considering polishing the intake ports while I have the carbs off.

[thumbsup]

BTW you new avatar is much easier on the eyes.

I'll say! That man put the 'fab' in Fabio.

don't polish inlet ports.

Intakes----.004 Exhausts---.005

All closers as close to .000 as possible with no rubbing on the cam.

If you install the half rings back the way they came out the adjustment will last longer.

Thanks for the heads up Brad. Just found this:
"Laminar flow is unattainable using only a highly polished surface as you actually induce drag by increasing the surface area between the air and metal surface. (NASA and its predecessor did a lot of research on this beginning in the 1950's) For this reason, in areas with subsonic aiflows, a lightly textured surface which induces micro vortexes will actually increase the airflow, as it creates a buffer zone that works like a lubricant. It doesn't matter if you are talking before or after the injection of fuel, as we are talking about airflow itself. Polishing the combustion chamber is, however, a good idea as it will eliminate carbon buildup, reduce the transfer of heat and reduce hot spots that can create pre-ignition.."

So according to the feeler measurements I took from the horizontal head (of course the vertical will be measured up before ordering shims) I need bigger closers (as stated).

Intake closer is: 8.25mm with a gap of .0635mm (unloaded).... [8.25+.0635=8.31mm to get ~.000mm gap]

Exhaust closer is: 8.05mm with a gap of .0254mm (unloaded).... [8.05+.0254=8.075mm to get ~.000mm gap]

With the goal of ~.000mm for the closers I need a shim of:
 
8.3mm for the intake 
8.1mm (sanded down to 8.075) for the exhaust


Sound right?

That sounds right, but I'd measure the opening clearances and order some shims to reduce some of the sanding. You'll be quite a while removing .003-.004 from those shims.

It's also possible you might be able to move some shims around to get the tolerances you need.

That looks like you're adding mm and inches.....???

Happens all the time... ;D

Good call Nick!
All fixed in bold.

Are you absolutely sure those closers are 8.05 and 8.25?

My range of closers is 6.00 to 7.80.
EMS *does* make closer shims up to 8.30, and OEM goes up to 9.60.

But I don't recall coming across any outside my range....

I am absolutely certain they are NOT. I was on the EMS site earlier and looked at their shim tool example...yeah, this dumbass put the tool in the wrong end of the closers. Hahahaha!
Time to bust out the calipers again...

if you think you need 7 and 7.2, for example, order 6.95, 7, 7.05 and 7.15, 7.2 and 7.25.  same for openers.

New Dunlop rear installed with nothing but oversized zip ties, windex, and some grunting. Air and bead popped at the local mobil station.
Total cost of install $10!

 Rock and Roll!

First valve adjustment. I ordered some closer shims and did some sanding of my openers. Here aremy results. I need to change some things out:
VERTICAL HEAD
Exhaust:                      Intake:
Opener gap: .004.      .005
Closer gap: .001.        .001

HORIZONTAL HEAD
Exhaust:                     Intake:
Opener gap: .004.     .006
Closer gap: .003.       .001

So it looks like my horizontal intake opener was sanded too much (it should be at .004) and the horizontal exhaust opener is a bit too tight (should be .005). And the closer gap is too large. Cam rotated fine. No rubbing.

On the vertical it looks like my exhaust opener is too tight and the intake is too loose. I did notice a bit of rubbing on the cams freeplay on the v head.
Perhaps I can switch around some openers to get what I need...
What causes the cam rubbing?

I might be able to get away with swapping all my openers and I gotta put in a slightly larger horizontal exhaust closer.
Is my vertical cam rubbing because my closers are too close to zero? I dont really understand that part..

It looks like you're using the method where you push on the rocker to unload the exhaust closer to measure.

If you push too hard you can flex the rocker and get an erroneous reading. If you have rubbing when you rotate the cam slightly one or both closers are too tight.

Yep, Im doing the push method. I always wondered about how much is too much or too little. I guess its just a feel thing.

Say the rubbing is due to only one closer. If i put a smaller closer on to reduce the rubbing, wont my closing gap be too large then?

I also read somewhere that closing measurements arent as important as long as no rubbing occurs. That true?

My experience/opinion is that Duc 2V motors run best with closers as close to .000 as possible, so I'd say it is not true.

It's most important at low rpm's. The closer you get to the practical breathing limit of the motor the importance diminishes.

How often are you wound tight while riding on the street?

Right. But if I'm rubbing with a gap of .001 I definitely wont be able to get close to .000
Then again, if I'm pushing too firmly on the rocker then perhaps putting on a slightly smaller closer shim (to reduce drag) wont be so far from .000

I guess I'm suggesting you are indeed pushing too hard and getting a false reading.

I don't do it the way you are.

I use the heel of my hand to push on the opening rocker to detect clearance and then change shims. If I can't detect clearance then I check for rubbing.

No detectable clearance and no rubbing is good in my book.

I can see how on the vert cylinder I could push too hard seeing that I have good position for leverage. One or both closers there are too big, I push harder than necessary which shows an inaccurately large gap but I get cam drag because the shim is too big. I get what's happening.

On Thursday I will try your hand method. No chance of scratching the valve chamber when the screwdriver slips either... [roll]

I will try to sort out the valves Thursday but I might be distracted by
(http://i50.tinypic.com/2myxezt.jpg)

Theyre a good thing! [thumbsup]

Cool! Want....

i slide the opening rocker out of the way and push the valve tip down with my thumb.  if it moves, there's clearance.  how much is generally much less than you'd expect.  0.10mm feels like an heap.  if you turn the cam around and it drags then a closer is too tight.  if you put the cam where it's tight and push down on the valve tips one should move down, so you'll know which one is tight.

Thanks. I will try that. Frankly, I never liked the screwdriver method.
I will re measure all my gaps and see if I can just do a little sanding on the tight closer.


I will swap around my openers. Is .006 too large an opening for an exhaust opener?

.005 is better. ;)

Spec is 0.004" to 0.010".  It is optimal to run a tighter opening clearance, but honestly...  Anything within OE specs is sufficient.

You're building a new bike (almost that is).  I wouldn't bother concerning yourself w/0.001" worth of opener clearance when you have so much else to do... 

BUT, that's just me and this is just my $0.02.

Hey Stu whats you take on this for 750 heads?

http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/rebuild/headwork.html (http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/rebuild/headwork.html)

Is that .010 number the 'new relaxed' spec?

I don't disagree about it maybe not being worth chasing that valve that's only .001 from optimal.

Don't bother.  If you're after some hotter small-Duc heads, I'd buy some 695 heads.  Direct bolt on, bigger valves, better chambers, better ports and stronger cams.  Can usually be had for cheap-ish...


As far as I've known, it's always been 0.004" to 0.010" spec.

Thats just the sort of answer I was hoping you had.  [thumbsup]

Thanks fellas. I talked to Mike about the loose closer and seeing that I never ran the bike after the install of the shims he's willing to send me a better fitting closer in exchange for that one really loose one (which may not actually be too loose after discovering that I press too hard). But I figure while he's sending me the closer (if I really do need it) that I will just buy the one opener that I sanded too much. I like knowing I set something to what I want rather than sufficing for a mistake that is "good enough".

On another note I casually tried to put the FCR in earlier. I have a removed airbox situation. Seems I gotta cut away a bit more of the remaining bits of air box "buttresses" for the carbs to fit...I hope I dont need to cut the front wall off the battery box because I like the stock coil location. And that would pretty much render the stock battery box useless. Certainly not ready ($$) for the LifePo in the custom tail unit step yet :P

there's some airbox mods pictures on my blog.

What part of your blog?

FCR and (temporary) straight pipe vid!
Ducati M750 project (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtYdceJGf2I&feature=youtu.be#)

Whats that rod sticking out the side airscrew adjustment?

Oh and if your running velocity stacks are you just using a small filter on the crank case breather?

Im glad your sharing all this because I have to do most of the same stuff on my 750 later this summer.

The rod is actually a cable for adjusting idle speed. The overall access on these carbs is a dream. Yes I have a small filter on the crank case. Btw, anyone know if its illegal to use said crank breather on the track? Or do I need to put a hose before the breather and affix it to a catch bottle?

Depends on the track day provider.

Race organizations generally require a catch tank.

That would be my guess. Too bad I tossed the lot when I ditched all that stuff. Guess I'll have to fab up something. I will be trying the new track in Davenport, NY come August.

 A PBR pounder can will do the job.

[laugh] not much of a drinker...probably use an aluminum drink bottle for hiking. The catch bottle needs only one hole for the crank hose or does it need another with a one way valve on it or something like that?

Regulator/Rectifier:

I am wanting to hide it. I am considering making a bracket and mounting it to the back of the battery box, opposite of the carbs. Is this a bad idea? I might be concerned with overheating it but I have seen some folks straight up cover the damn thing under their seats with zero air flow with no problems. The plan is to make the bracket and mounting plate from aluminum to perhaps act as a heat sync.

and others have caught fire and burned the bike up

My point exactly. I wonder if I put the rr on the battery box, I could make a sort of ram air vent that pushes air onto the rr. Basically just a big rubber or silicone tube (1" maybe) that runs from the front of the bike to the rr.
Would it work?

except standing still.

That idea has been scrapped. New idea in the works.
Gonna try to mount it vertically off the tabs where the old external fuel pump was. At a glance it looks like the holes will line up.

My super hawk had the retifier behind some plastic bodywork on the tail. It burned up. Not sure if it was heat or just faulty. The replacement had been superceded with a new part number and was not identical in apperance. That sums up my experience with bad rectifiers it would be prudent to let it cool someplace.

First round of mods and adjustments completed:
Valves set
New rear tire
Braking (Denmark) pads
LED headlight
Shaved seat
SS tank
FCR carbs
Relocated R/R (under bottom tree)
Relocated ignition (right side front)

Next level in a couple weeks:
Bultaco quarter fairing
(http://i35.tinypic.com/4g2eiu.jpg)
White header wrap
Fiberglass cafe seat pan
(http://i34.tinypic.com/2gvrlp2.jpg)
Black mini speedometer (mechanical)

Here's a couple pics from my first ride of the season. FCRs are no joke. Low end jerkiness (inner city riding) is gone. Throttle response is so smooth and responsive it almost feels FI. The clacking at idle is awesome and with straight velocity stacks she really cooks. Still gotta fine tune the screws underneath though (yes I know they are each for different functions). Don't know if I have more HP between the FCRs, gp Dan Motos, and V stacks...but it sure as hell feels like it.

(http://i37.tinypic.com/15zsa3r.jpg)

(http://i34.tinypic.com/j9ncis.jpg)

 I love what you're doing with this bike!

Me too. Im glad those FCR's are working good. Ive never heard anyone say they sucked.
Cant wait to start putting them on mine.

Thanks spike and dave!  [thumbsup]

will the front guard hit the regulator at full compression?

I don't think so. But it might be cool if I cut a hole in the fender just in case.

Suspension:
Are there any forks that will fit without needing to replace the trees or caliper or axle? Probably not with all those constraints but its worth a shot..

I put some 749 forks on mine. I did have to have the top clamp Machined out a bit and I made some shims for the bottom out of sheet metal. Other than that they went right on. I took the forks down to race tech first and had them replace the seals, and add new oil before I put them on.

Same fitment adjustable Showa forks came on other Monsters.

Youre talking about the non adjustable Showas right? I'd love to find a set of adjustables without having the headache of new wheel and new calipers and possibly new trees. But the non adj Showas, are they better than the Marzocchis?

Dave, did your calipers line up?

Anyone know if 749 forks would work with respect to calipers and axle fitment? Is the length different from stock M750?

There were adjustable 41mm Showa forks on some Monsters, they had the same small axle and 40mm caliper bolt spacing as what you have.
They'll bolt right on.

749 forks won't bolt up to any of your parts.

Dave's '01 M750 has the 25mm axle and 65mm caliper bolt spacing.
So the 749 fit his axle/wheel and calipers.
He shimmed the lower triple and bored the upper to fit the 53/53 diameter of the legs.

(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb347/dapaoli/null_zpsed5d7e3a.jpg)

(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb347/dapaoli/null_zpsf6f0d22b.jpg)

It just goes together besides having the top tripp,e machined and the shim on the lower one.


So his 750 is different?

Thanks guys. Nothing on fleabay...
I need to figure out a temp bandaid until I find suitable replacement forks. I put on a set of Braking brake pads and new fluids and now the nose dive is so bad I get concerned with quick stops.
Most affordable idea I have (until monster showas appear) is to get some springs from racetech and put in heavier weight oil.

I have to look but i have internals for  S4 showas if that will work

So youre saying that adjustable showa internals can fit inside my marzocchis?

saw these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-848-1098-1198-STREETFIGHTER-OEM-SHOWA-CARTRIDGE-INTERNALS-FORKS-SPRINGS-/380466671008?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589594ada0&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-848-1098-1198-STREETFIGHTER-OEM-SHOWA-CARTRIDGE-INTERNALS-FORKS-SPRINGS-/380466671008?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589594ada0&vxp=mtr)

It would be great if I could drop them in my Marzocchi tubes. But nothing is ever that easy. I'm being naive but wishful... :-[

No, neither will work without disproportionate spending of time and money.
And that may not even be enough.

Some body, either on this thread or TOB was working on some adjustable internals for these Marzochis. I don't know what ever became of that.

Im just gonna do a spring upgrade and put in heavier oil until affordable adj shocks show up. Thanks.

actually. you missed ,‘if that will work‘ at the end

Right. Sorry...


On another note, I was inspecting my belts today. They have maybe 100 miles on them and the vertical belt has a linear crack along a small section of the "sidewall" with a 1/2" piece of fiberglass strand sticking out. Tension is good.
I don't get it. Bad batch maybe? They are Exactfits from Chris. Maybe I can snap a pic (though I snipped off the little piece already).

Contact Chris and let him know. He values feedback and his words good.

Small update:
Exhaust wrap and oil cooler delete (yes I remembered to remove the spring valve from the oil filter recess).
Still lots to do (mount quarter fairing, reskin seat, suspension, etc)
...and I think my headlight might be too low..
(http://i42.tinypic.com/14xkzkh.jpg)

I like the way this is turning out. Is that the stock seat pan that was trimmed ? I don't remember it being covered.

Thank you. Yes the seat pan and seat are stock. I trimmed a lot of excess plastic from the sides of the pan and tons from the foam. Passenger area was untouched. The nose of it also needed trimming to accommodate the ss tank.

The final will be a steel pan where the nose attaches to the same bracket the tank attaches to. The pan will then go back at a very slight upward angle. Where it meets the frame again it will make a 20 degree bend and continue on to the tail light. This will have a fiberglass tracker seat pan and a lifepo 8 cell will be inside the tail piece.

Out of curiosity, why the oil cooler delete? I know the stock one isn't much but at least it's something.

According to many builders much more educated than I have stated that oil coolers on the 750 and 900 are not necessary. Maybe if you live in an urban environment where air temps exceed 100 degrees. Or maybe if you have a heavy track warrior.
Modern synth oils are very resistant to heat. Nothing to worry about.
I did it for looks.

New bit for the Bitsa! Installing tomorrow...
(http://i42.tinypic.com/smg8ih.jpg)

You ought to finish off the front with a SS fender now. That would look sweet with that fairing.

I hear you but i find the SS fender a bit bulky compared to the one I have now.

Mounted. Still needs paint. Suggestions?
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2v2z61y.jpg)

Cut a hole for the headlight... ;D

Where's the smart ass emocon?

I meant suggs for paint...I'm thinking black with a red stripe. And then copy it when I do my tail piece. Using ducati colors in an uncommon scheme.

Figuring out the bracket to extend the headlight so it doesn't bounce around like a jack-in-the-box is gonna be a pain.

How about a lighter weight projector beam light?

Smallish update. Extended the headlight bracket, painted the fairing and the wheels. Ditched the DM conicals for now..
(http://i43.tinypic.com/mljgbk.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2i8kxmr.pjpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/ru30oy.jpg)

Still gotta attend to the seat and the motor...