http://www.ebay.com/itm/360580090484?item=360580090484&viewitem=&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/360580090484?item=360580090484&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
the price is right...I did ask what kind of heads it has, whether or not the manifolds are included, and whether or not it came from a running bike...still waiting to hear back.
for that price I'm a little wary.
It has V heads. Id get it.
Looks dirty. I wonder what it looks like on the inside?
How can you guys tell for sure it has the V heads? in the description he mentions ; "it looks like a later engine...cast stamp 96"
it really does look crusty but it is a 15 year old engine...
I'm waiting to hear back about the manifolds.
I am not sure of V or W, but 900 motors are becoming increasingly scarce and going for decent money...if it is a W headed motor, you can find a set of 620 heads and be golden...or any mulitude of mods based on your personal flavor...
well I put an offer in...
what would you guys recommend I do while it's on the bench and have easy access to everything? I'm not particularly mechanically inclined but I have very talented friends and can follow instructions.
another thing I'm curious about...
could I put an injected 900 engine in a carbed 750, using my Mikunis?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 15, 2013, 06:59:50 AM
another thing I'm curious about...
could I put an injected 900 engine in a carbed 750, using my Mikunis?
If you run the 900 as carbed then yes. If you want to run it as injected, then the cross-tube under the back of the airbox will be in the way of the horizontal intake runner. Injected bikes ran a curved cross-tube, carbed bikes run a straight one.
Your 750 carbs are slightly different from the 900 carbs.
They could most likely be made to work.
well, the seller accepted my offer of $400...so I'm into it for $669 shipped.
I'm a bit nervous. I really hope I don't find a nightmare inside this thing, but for this price I really can't lose I suppose.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360580090484?item=360580090484&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:B:BOC:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/360580090484?item=360580090484&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:B:BOC:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr)
Something else I'm hearing is that the 94 and up engines are what I need for a direct swap to my 2001 M750. This is a 91 ss motor. Can anyone enlighten me? thank you so much
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 15, 2013, 08:45:56 AM
Something else I'm hearing is that the 94 and up engines are what I need for a direct swap to my 2001 M750. This is a 91 ss motor. Can anyone enlighten me? thank you so much
If you get the engine number, that'll help determine what year it is.
according to the description, it says: cast stamp 96" ?
still waiting for a response from the seller.
ok, got my response
stamp on the heads is V2.
engine number: LC4V039641
manifolds will be included.
gear box is included.
came off running bike.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 15, 2013, 08:59:22 AM
ok, got my response
stamp on the heads is V2.
engine number: LC4V039641
manifolds will be included.
gear box is included.
came off running bike.
SCORE! [evil]
Your 750 carbs will need to be completely jetted for the 900.
I might pick up a set of pre jetted FCR's from Chris Kelly since I got such a good deal. $400+$260 s/h...if this engine is in good shape I think I did pretty good.
according to CK it's an extremely good idea to check on the oil galley plug as they have a tendency to back out on these older SS engines. I would really rather not split the cases as this engine swap is already going to be testing my mechanical prowess. If I don't find any metal shavings in the oil, can I assume things are in good shape? on an engine this crusty tho, I guess I really ought to do all the recommended TLC while it's on the bench...
If I do split the cases, any other recommendations are welcome and appreciated.
You'll be able to see the plug if you pull the cylinders. You can also check on the cylinder studs at that point. I think those early motors had the weak studs from the factory.
If they break they can be a real chore to get out.
If the studs are bright and shiny they should be replaced while the engine is out. Our sponsor California Cycleworks can help with the studs. I would also check the the oil galley plugs before installing the engine. Better to check now rather than after the engine is in the frame and a few thousand miles later you see the shavings.
After all my flaking out, hand wringing, and incessant questions I ran a complete circle and am just going to fix up this 900ss engine and put the damn thing in.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/247prophet/cleanengine_zps43e186cc.jpg)
It's amazing how much more confident I feel now that it's cleaned up and hung up.
I'm not going to pay anyone to do any of this for me. It's my bike, my engine, and I want to do it myself. So, hopefully ya'all will put up with more questions.
- If the end plug is tight I'll leave the cases alone and just remove the cylinders, replace the studs, and fit a set of JE high comp pistons; Can I expect things to go fairly smooth with stock ignition timing? I don't really want to go all half cocked with my $ again and buy an Ignitech just yet.
I can take anything apart and put it back together...I just don't know much about how engines actually work. If advancing or retarding the timing is going to be necessary I would buy the Ignitech instead of attempting to fiddle with that. Tuning things is where I'm really clueless. Hoping that my open airbox, FCR's, dynacoils, and high comp pistons will all just magically play well together. Yeah that sounds stupid. :D
I'm figuring to start, I need to order the pistons+rings and go from there...
Hi comp pistons, FCRs, Dyna coils and open airbox is a great combination and you will really notice the difference. Better bite the bullet and get the Ignitech for sure (and consider premium fuel). There are forum members who can help you with the Ignitech mapping. You need to run less maximum full advance and a gentler advance curve with hi comp pistons, but we can help you with that down the track.
If you stay with stock pistons you dont need the Ignitech or expensive fuel, just a thought. High comp gives more exciting engine response however.