Hey all, I have a 98 M900 running stock carbs, stock jetting, modified air box with K&N filter, Staintune slip-ons, and CA-Cycleworks Ignition Coils. Recently I've been having some issues with the bike coughing a little at low RPM's when it's not quite completely warmed up yet. It's happened a couple of times in 1st and 2nd in low-speed corners and the sudden drop in speed has me scared I'm going to lay it down for something stupid like this.
I bought the bike back in August and the seller SAID that the carbs had been cleaned, belts replaced, etc. Have no idea if that's actually true or not. I've recently synched the carbs and set the idle screws to where I believe they should be (who knows). Any opinions on what else the culprit could be? Jetting? Valve clearances? Timing belts?
With stock jetting and an open air box it sounds like it's lean when cold. I'm surprised it isn't so lean with those mods and stock jetting that it's only when cold, and not the entire throttle range.
Try keeping the choke on a little to see if the 'coughing' goes away.
A jet kit would eliminate the issue if that's the case.
It could be valve clearances, but the issue doesn't usually go away with engine temp...it would get worse as the clearances tighten up due to heat.
Okay thank you, I'll try the choke fix tomorrow morning and report back.
It seems that keeping the choke cracked helps the issue, but the weather around here really warmed up over the weekend so I didn't have a whole lot of cold weather to test it in. Can anyone else attest that a re-jetting will probably solve this?
Thanks
By modified airbox we are guessing the top is chopped off to reveal the air filter.
DP is correct, take his advice. Yes. Have no doubt.
If you have an open airbox with stock jetting in stock carbs, your bike will be running lean in certain rev ranges.
An exception would be in the lower midrange/off idle if you have worn needle jets which need to be replaced anyway. Lets hope they are because they may protect your motor.
For example standard M900 main jets are usually 140 size. Open airboxes may require up to 165s.
Buy a jet kit to suit an open airbox and new needle jets if they have 10,000 miles on them.
He's also running cans.
Like I said originally I'm surprised the thing is actually rideable.
You're probably on the money about the worn needle jets. ;)
Okay, thanks for the advice guys.
I am suspicious now though that you say you find it hard to believe the thing is rideable with the current setup. It is VERY rideable, so maybe it does have updated jetting? Obviously the only way to tell is to tear it apart. I feel like the most logical path to take is to take it apart, inspect the jets, then order the new ones if necessary. I'm going to hate doing it though, as it's hitting 70 degrees here for the first time this year, that'll be a hard layup to swallow. :'(
Quote from: ChrisK on April 08, 2013, 04:14:39 PM
Okay, thanks for the advice guys.
I am suspicious now though that you say you find it hard to believe the thing is rideable with the current setup. It is VERY rideable, so maybe it does have updated jetting? Obviously the only way to tell is to tear it apart. I feel like the most logical path to take is to take it apart, inspect the jets, then order the new ones if necessary. I'm going to hate doing it though, as it's hitting 70 degrees here for the first time this year, that'll be a hard layup to swallow. :'(
Monsters are lean from the factory, and when you open the airbox and add cans they get even leaner. That's why I made that comment. You stated the jetting was stock, and from my experience that makes for lousy throttle response and running.
It's possible that it was jetted, and you just have dirty pilot jets.
Pull your plugs and see if they're white or brown before you pull it apart.
Check that, just ordered the Dynojet Kit, I can return it if I miraculously find I don't need it. So now I'll hopefully be able to get it all done on Saturday. I'll report back, thanks again.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 08, 2013, 04:24:31 PM
Monsters are lean from the factory, and when you open the airbox and add cans they get even leaner. That's why I made that comment. You stated the jetting was stock, and from my experience that makes for lousy throttle response and running.
It's possible that it was jetted, and you just have dirty pilot jets.
Pull your plugs and see if they're white or brown before you pull it apart.
I've pulled the plugs and they appear lean, granted I didn't follow exact plug-check protocol. As I stated in my last post, the kit is now on its way so I'll know more at the end of the week.
Okay so in preparation for the re-jetting, it's already been recommended in this thread that the main jets might need to be 165's. Again, I'm running a cut air-box with K&N filter, stock Mikuni's, and Stain-tune slip-ons. What other recommendations do you guys have? What clip on the needle jets, etc?
I've also seen that the recommended idle mixture screw height is 2.75 turns out? Is that what you guys would recommend? That is much lower than what mine are at.
I'll be setting the float height, as I doubt it isn't set at the recommended 14 mm.
Quote from: ChrisK on April 10, 2013, 05:52:26 PM
Okay so in preparation for the re-jetting, it's already been recommended in this thread that the main jets might need to be 165's. Again, I'm running a cut air-box with K&N filter, stock Mikuni's, and Stain-tune slip-ons. What other recommendations do you guys have? What clip on the needle jets, etc?
I've also seen that the recommended idle mixture screw height is 2.75 turns out? Is that what you guys would recommend? That is much lower than what mine are at.
I'll be setting the float height, as I doubt it isn't set at the recommended 14 mm.
I believe my needles are in the middle notch, but I removed the washer. It was too fat even with new needle jets.
My mixture screws are 3.5 or 4 turns out.
I'd recommend you inspect the needle jets with a magnifier. It doesn't take much wear to really kill your fuel mileage and make settings a PITA.
Won't the Dynojet kit come with new needle jets?
And I'm pretty certain I remember counting 9 turns out on my mixture screws. BUT, maybe I was counting half-turns, so 4.5 full turns.
Quote from: ChrisK on April 11, 2013, 09:53:56 AM
Won't the Dynojet kit come with new needle jets?
And I'm pretty certain I remember counting 9 turns out on my mixture screws. BUT, maybe I was counting half-turns, so 4.5 full turns.
The jet kits do not include needle jets AFAIK. I don't know if DJ even offers one. OEM and Factory Pro do offer them. They're not cheap.
It includes an assortment of jets...3 sizes...with spare o-rings...needles...and springs for the slides along with a drill bit and some clips and washers. If you can access your fuel screws someone pulled the plugs already.
4.5 may be what yours needs. I think if I had to go that far I'd change the pilot jet.
Ahhh I just assumed the kit would come with them because I just installed a DJ kit on my project Virago and that one had needles. But the Duc kit doesn't, here is the link to the spec sheet:
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/7209.pdf (http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/7209.pdf)
Interesting, so it looks like I could be looking at even more money, yay!........
Is there any kind of discount/ free shipping or anything at CA-Cycleworks for being a member on here?
Actually, not that I look at the DJ spec sheet again, what is the term "fuel needles" referring to? Would those be the needle jets, or are they something else?
Quote from: ChrisK on April 11, 2013, 11:11:35 AM
Ahhh I just assumed the kit would come with them because I just installed a DJ kit on my project Virago and that one had needles. But the Duc kit doesn't, here is the link to the spec sheet:
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/7209.pdf (http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/7209.pdf)
Interesting, so it looks like I could be looking at even more money, yay!........
The kit has needles...not needle jets. The jet is the tube the needle rides in, and is what wears causing rich midrange and lousy mileage.
So I got both the Dynojet and Factory Pro kits in. I tore the carbs out of the bike and re-jetted them according to the write-up on www.ducatisuite.com (//http://). Now I have a question. First, I believe the bike WAS rejetted before. The mains that I took out of it said 170. I followed the Dynojet kit instructions which said to install the 175's for a bike running cans and whatnot. Also, I placed the e-clip on the 4th notch, per the instructions. Installed the new needle jets and set the float levels.
Here's the tricky thing. The ducati suite write up said that the recommended pilot jet was a 42.5. The Dynojet kit didn't come with pilot jets. I unscrewed them to examine and they are 37.5's. That's my question? Should they be larger? I'm guessing numbered jets aren't the same from brand to brand, but again, I don't know. Will this setup workout? I'm asking this question before I go to the trouble of putting the carbs back in the bike.
ALSO, on top of the jet combination I'm sitting at right now. Two other possible culprits for my coughing issue: first, both float levels were at 10.5 mm, opposed to the recommended 14 mm. Second, there was a little gunk in each carb that needed to be cleaned out.
So again, opinions on those 37.5 pilot jets - combined with the 175 mains, new needle jets, new needles, etc. Again, for reference, open airbox with K&N Filter and Staintune cans.
FWIW...I have stock pilot jets in my 900.
The fuel screws are set to 4 turns out and it runs great.
Okay thanks, the kit recommended 3.5 turns out so I'll start with that. Anybody else have an opinion on the pilot jet/main jet combo?
Are the stock pilot jets 40s? They are down here for an M900. Different up your way? I notice that the DJ kit uses the stock pilot but the FP kit has options. If you're in Southern Cal then try the 37.5s but if it can get cold then the 40s. In Melbourne Oz you're screwed as it it goes into the 100s in summer and cold in Winter. You get lumpy rich in summer with 40s but winter is ok (except the carb freezing with our humidity), or nice and smooth in summer with the 37.5s but a pregnant dog in winter. You gotta test it. Maybe try the 40s from the FP kit (iirc).
Careful measuring float level, you dont want the spring inside the float needle to fully compress. The float settles in two stages, so measure at the the first, "higher" stage. Could make a few mms difference.
If that float was set too rich at 10mm it would have caused problems, but may have been set that way to cover the small pilot jet. Sometimes its fix a problem and cause one somewhere else in the rev range.
With open airbox and open pipes/cans, 175 mains (DJ) (165 Mikuni), needle #4 and 40 or 37.5 pilot jets sounds like a good start. Float at 14mm, check and recheck it. You should be very close and close enough not to care. I think the needle posn or pilot jet/IMS setting are what you will play with if you need to. The mains are pretty safe with those mods.
Great, thank you so much for the detail.
I live in northern Illinois, 100 in the summer, 0 in the winter. I'll just roll with the 37.5 and see what happens I guess. Thanks for the heads up on the float level sitting in two different positions. I believe I set it correctly, or at least got it really close.
It isn't any different here in central NH with regards to temps.
My bike has always been fine with the DYNO JET kit and 165's with a drilled airbox lid.
My opinion is the 175's would be too rich. I'd start with 170's for your open box.
Use DPs settings as our fuel has kangaroo poo in it ;D
Quote from: koko64 on April 18, 2013, 09:21:30 PM
Use DPs settings as our fuel has kangaroo poo in it ;D
Our fuel has cow piss in it.
Crap, just different crap.
[laugh]
[laugh] Green fuel (or brown fuel)?
DP, you meant DJ or Mikuni jet sizes? Ah I see. That's a big difference.
I remember Brad and I having a conversation about how the 155s in a Factory Pro kit (Mikuni size) were once fine with an open airbox, but for quite a few years now an open airbox has requred more like 165s (Mikuni size). Strange but true. I remember getting the Factory Pro kits but later requiring extra main jets.
Okay I need more help.
I got it all put back together but it's running terrible.
I barely got it to start, twist the throttle and it dies. I thought it might be the idle mixture, so I turned those screws out even further. It seemed like the bike started easier, but AS SOON as I twist the throttle it dies.
What would that lead to? Jet size incorrect? Can you think of something on the carbs that I might have forgotten to attach or attached incorrectly?
Check
All lines and hoses
Diaphragms seated correctly
Little o rings are under the caps
Springs in correctly
Needles going down the needle jets straight
fuel tap on
Quote from: koko64 on April 18, 2013, 09:34:38 PM
[laugh] Green fuel (or brown fuel)?
DP, you meant DJ or Mikuni jet sizes? Ah I see. That's a big difference.
I remember Brad and I having a conversation about how the 155s in a Factory Pro kit (Mikuni size) were once fine with an open airbox, but for quite a few years now an open airbox has requred more like 165s (Mikuni size). Strange but true. I remember getting the Factory Pro kits but later requiring extra main jets.
Dyno Jet sizes
Thats four jet sizes difference. Definately the kangaroo poo.
Mine is also stock compression
Quote from: ChrisK on April 18, 2013, 08:09:34 PM
So I got both the Dynojet and Factory Pro kits in. I tore the carbs out of the bike and re-jetted them according to the write-up on www.ducatisuite.com (//http://) (//http://) (//http://). Now I have a question. First, I believe the bike WAS rejetted before. The mains that I took out of it said 170. I followed the Dynojet kit instructions which said to install the 175's for a bike running cans and whatnot. Also, I placed the e-clip on the 4th notch, per the instructions. Installed the new needle jets and set the float levels.
Here's the tricky thing. The ducati suite write up said that the recommended pilot jet was a 42.5. The Dynojet kit didn't come with pilot jets. I unscrewed them to examine and they are 37.5's. That's my question? Should they be larger? I'm guessing numbered jets aren't the same from brand to brand, but again, I don't know. Will this setup workout? I'm asking this question before I go to the trouble of putting the carbs back in the bike.
ALSO, on top of the jet combination I'm sitting at right now. Two other possible culprits for my coughing issue: first, both float levels were at 10.5 mm, opposed to the recommended 14 mm. Second, there was a little gunk in each carb that needed to be cleaned out.
So again, opinions on those 37.5 pilot jets - combined with the 175 mains, new needle jets, new needles, etc. Again, for reference, open airbox with K&N Filter and Staintune cans.
When you say 4th notch...from the top, or bottom?
on my 900 i think i went down to 37.5 pilots to help the fuel economy. 40 or 42.5 would have been std in our euro versions.
up to you, really. if it is lean just off a closed throttle go bigger on pilot. the more you play with them the mroe you realise they're hamstrung by their design.
4th notch from the top (fat end).
I know the diaphragms and o rings seated correctly when I put the carbs back together.
I have two mysteries: first, towards the front of the carbs (front as in front of the bike) there are two plastic nipples that clearly are meant to have hoses placed on them. One of them, I've gathered, is the fuel delivery hose, and I have that one all hooked up. During the re-install though, I got done, looked down, and said "shit." I had an extra 6 inch piece of hose laying on the ground. Now, I'm guessing that goes to the other, similar plastic nipple near the fuel delivery one, but I don't know where the other end attaches to. When I had the bike running no fuel was spraying or even leaking.
Second, I found what appears to be a tiny filter laying on the ground after the re-install. I definitely did not take it out of anything on purpose during the tear down. It is about 3/4 of an inch long, made of orangish plastic with a fiber membrane - kind of cone shaped. What the hell is it? lol
If you guys, my exalted Desmodromic expert technician consultants... can't come up with a definitive solution, I'm thinking I might just re-jet back to the 170's. I pulled 170's out of them so I'd basically be sitting with the exact same setup just new. If it still doesn't run right, then I know that I'm reassembling something wrong.
That said, I find it hard to believe that changing from a 170 to 175 is having this large of an effect on it. Went from very rideable and very fun, to can't even pull out of my driveway.
The small conical filter goes in the fuel infeed fitting, likely it got dragged out when you pulled the hose off.
Short piece of hose goes from the bowl vent fitting to the left pod.
Main jet change wouldn't produce the symptoms you describe, something else is wrong.
Speedog,
I believe my left pod doesn't have any hoses going to it, if I remember correctly. My right pod has two hoses coming to it, both from the bowls.
Right pod should have two hoses coming from the diaphragms.
Ah, yes, diaphragms. lol. Sorry about that.
Okay, I will check on the left pod and running that hose over there. Am I correct that where it connects to the carb is real near where the fuel comes in? And that it looks very similar to where the fuel comes in?
Thanks again, guys.
Yes, the vent fitting is right next to the fuel infeed fitting.
Okay, thank you. Still though, without that hose hooked up it's unlikely that it's causing the bike to run that poorly, correct?
Quote from: ChrisK on April 19, 2013, 12:27:43 PM
Okay, thank you. Still though, without that hose hooked up it's unlikely that it's causing the bike to run that poorly, correct?
Yes, it's something besides that.
Well shit, lol, what is it?!
The throttle blades move like they should. I have the two diaphragm breathers hooked up, the two bowl vents hooked up. Fuel hose hooked up, other hose near that hooked up and ran to the left pod. No leaks at either end of carbs. Needles were slid in aligning their notches. Float height set to 14 mm. Jets seated like theyre supposed to. 175 mains and 37.5 pilots. Just trying to rattle off known variables.
Bike won't start with the air filter off. Starts barely with the filter on. Can't give it any gas with no joke, can slowly rev it up when choke is cracked a bit.
It sounds like you have an air leak somewhere.
Other than the four hose clamps I need to tighten down on the intakes and manifolds, where else would there be an air leak?
Actually, there's an elbow nipple that comes down from the bottom, front, left corner of the airbox. Also, there is a rubber hose that is sitting unused near the left pod, with the other end being down near the bottom of the bike, ending in a sort of 'reed' fitting, almost like it's pinched at the end kind of. Is that supposed to hook into the airbox?
Yes, but that's not the issue with the bike.
That's the airbox drain.
It can leak air from a vacuum hose. Either the one to the fuel pump, or the one to the vacuum petcock.
Okay I buttoned it all back up again, this time I took extra care to really torque down every screw, hose clamp, bolt, etc. It got better but it's still terrible. A leak somewhere makes the most sense to me. With the choke pulled it runs better. If I let it sit at idle for 20 seconds or so with no choke it will have enough gas in the bowl to rev the engine. But, if I release throttle and immediately rev it again it leans out and is starved of fuel. As I back the idle mixture screws out it gets slightly better but they're already almost the entire way out. So, what else would be causing too much air/not enough fuel?
Also, if I place a piece of paper over the air filter covering 3/4 of it, it runs great. Granted that's with the idle screws turned way out.
How much fuel in the tank?
Have you verified the vacuum line to the pump is connected
Plenty of fuel and vacuum lines are securely connected
Don't take this the wrong way.
It wasn't broke, other than a light cough, until you 'fixed' it.
New parts shouldn't make the thing barely run, so it must be an adjustment or assembly error.
You say the diaphragms are right as well as the o-rings being in place.
If you've verified fuel delivery from the pump and made sure there's no kinked lines...
I'd re-visit the floats.
No offense taken, I'm nearly 100% sure that this is installer error. I'm just trying to get opinions on what I could have messed up to cause it. I believe it's probably something I did that is preventing fuel flow... and like you said, I think at this point the float levels are the best bet. Since I've messed with those and I believe I've confirmed that nothing else is kinked/improperly connected.
Well I've had the carbs out of the bike 4 times over the weekend now, so I'm getting pretty damn good and taking them out and putting them back in.
I'm going to rattle off my thoughts on it if you guys would like to confirm my theories and point me in the right direction.
The first time, I switched to the biggest main jets I had available to me, and I set the float levels to the recommended height of 14 mm, moving from the 11 mm they were set at. So I went to a jet that sprays gas faster, but changed the float making it so there was less gas available. The bike ran way too lean.
The second time, I went to the smallest jets, 165's and moved the float level back to the low end, making more gas available. The bike ran really rich.
Now, I've slid in the 170 main jets and set the float levels to a compromise, at 12 mm. The bike still starts and runs rough. Cracking the choke a little bit helps it run better.
That said, since cracking the choke restricts airflow, does that mean it's running lean? If so, should I maybe consider moving the needle position up? In theory to allow more gas through?
Any suggestions?
Now that I think about it more, adjusting the needles upward, so more fuel comes through, makes more sense. The needle jets are supposed to affect performance at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, correct? The bike idles alright and when I go WOT it absolutely rips. It's when I'm just cruising between 30-60 mph in 2nd-5th gears that it seems to run lean and snap, crackle, and pop. So, in theory, wouldn't adjusting the needles make that mid-throttle range perform better?
Somebody? Anybody?
Also, for anyone exploring the world of carburation for essentially the first time like I am, this is a great link: http://carbworx.com/Carburation.html (http://carbworx.com/Carburation.html)
Go back to 14mm. on the floats, raise the needles 1 notch and give it a try.
Yep, needles control partial throttle, mains control full throttle, high load. Mixture screws and pilots control idle and just off idle.
Okay thanks, going to ride this evening since it's finally beautiful here. But hopefully I'll have time to do it tonight, I'll report back. [thumbsup]
Quote from: howie on April 22, 2013, 01:51:14 PM
Go back to 14mm. on the floats, raise the needles 1 notch and give it a try.
Yep, needles control partial throttle, mains control full throttle, high load. Mixture screws and pilots control idle and just off idle.
I'm going to add that with the CV carbs all the circuits affect each other.
While the main jet is solely responsible for the wot circuit, it also affect the midrange, and to a lesser extent the idle. Same for the needle. It is responsible for the midrange, but fuel does flow through the main jet and therefore the needle jet at idle.
None of the circuits shut off at a particular throttle position.
Thanks for your input. Different jets do take precedence at different points in the throttle range, however they are all working in conjunction at all times. Good to keep in mind.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 22, 2013, 04:28:06 PM
I'm going to add that with the CV carbs all the circuits affect each other.
While the main jet is solely responsible for the wot circuit, it also affect the midrange, and to a lesser extent the idle. Same for the needle. It is responsible for the midrange, but fuel does flow through the main jet and therefore the needle jet at idle.
None of the circuits shut off at a particular throttle position.
True, but, IMO main and idle need to be at least close to correct first.
Quote from: howie on April 22, 2013, 04:43:23 PM
True, but, IMO main and idle need to be at least close to correct first.
I agree on the main.
It should be determined before you even think about the needle.
I'd get the needle close next, because as long as the pilot jet is close you always seem to adjust the idle mixture when all else is said and done.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 22, 2013, 05:00:42 PM
I agree on the main.
It should be determined before you even think about the needle.
I'd get the needle close next, because as long as the pilot jet is close you always seem to adjust the idle mixture when all else is said and done.
Agreed.
Doesn't it sound like my main and idle jets are 'at least close'? Since it idles fine and rips at WOT?
Quote from: ChrisK on April 22, 2013, 05:09:42 PM
Doesn't it sound like my main and idle jets are 'at least close'? Since it idles fine and rips at WOT?
If that's the case then yes.
How are your needles set up now?
How's the off idle throttle response?
I only changed the needles to the most rich setting. Didn't touch the floats because I could adjust the needles without taking the carbs off the bike. It runs great.
[popcorn]
I'm learning a lot from reading this thread and helping out my friend with a similar problem with his KZ650 he is building, but I'm glad my bike has fuel injection. :)
Quote from: ChrisK on April 22, 2013, 08:41:47 PM
I only changed the needles to the most rich setting. Didn't touch the floats because I could adjust the needles without taking the carbs off the bike. It runs great.
Have you ridden the bike at a cruise?
I would think with the needles in the richest setting it would get horrible mileage and run rich.
It may be OK on acceleration like that, but it is definitely not a 'normal' setting.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 23, 2013, 06:42:33 AM
Have you ridden the bike at a cruise?
I would think with the needles in the richest setting it would get horrible mileage and run rich.
It may be OK on acceleration like that, but it is definitely not a 'normal' setting.
I rode 20 min to a neighboring town at 65 mph and 20 min back last night. It seemed to be running great. But I'll tell you what, it's raining today, but then after Wednesday we're going to have dry weather so I'll fill the tank up Wednesday and run it till it's bone dry and report back what kind of mpg I get. I live in a small town so I don't do a lot of city riding - more cruising on country roads.
In the mean time, just words of advice to people embarking on a similar, uneducated journey. Definitely give it a shot, it's a great feeling knowing that you know how to work on your bike. Only change one variable at a time. I made the mistake of changing two at a time and it made it difficult to pinpoint the culprit. Don't be in a hurry and forget to do something. Have attention to detail. This came back to bite me twice on this project, the biggest being yesterday: I changed the needle position and was so eager to test it out that when I put my gas tank back down I forgot to unkink the fuel hose loop. The bike ran great for a while and I was excited, then when the gas in the lines had run out it started running terrible and I thought the worst. Got it back home and had a 'doh!' moment.
An update:
I haven't had enough time to do the mileage test yet, but I'll report back when I do.
What I have noticed - I have a small gas leak happening. I was suspecting it so I placed some cardboard under the bike overnight, in the morning there was a spot about the size of a softball. So not a whole lot but it's there. I THINK the culprit is an aging float bowl gasket, but in addition to that it seems like there might be some gas coming out of the idle mixture screw hole. Is there an O-Ring around the base of that screw that could be bad? In addition to the leak, I'm assuming a tiny air leak in a float bowl gasket could be causing some strange issues?
I can't decide if I want to just buy two complete rebuild kits for them or if I can do it cheaper by sourcing parts from a TDM850 from the local Yamaha dealer (no Ducati dealer within a 2 hour drive).
ALSO, there are four black plugs about the size of a dime that are supposed to be on these (2 per carb). They're on the bottom of the float bowl. What the heck, if anything, do those do?
Thanks.
The plugs are to plug e holes for float bowl heater lines.
Not sure about your leak.
Thanks for the information, I think the leak has to be the bowl gaskets, picking up new ones at the local Yam dealer tomorrow.
So since I was putting in new float bowl gaskets. I tried to give the 14 mm floats and 175 mains another shot. Also moved needles to the fifth slot. No go, wouldn't even start. So, I'm back to 13 mm and 170 mains. The thing that worries me, is that I have to have my idle mixture screw turned out 6 the s and the needles on the sixth position for it to start and run. Obviously not normal, so I'm worried. Just did a mpg test today, mostly cruising 60-65. Completely filled the tank and ran it all the way down till when the low fuel light came on at 127 miles. So still some gas left, don't know how much. What do you guys think?
Earlier I forgot to add that 50 of the miles were done with two people on her.
Also, I just went back out and road more before filling up. Ran the total to 145 miles. Brimmed it with 3.7 gallons. That's 39 mpg and some change, I figure it'd be we'll over 40 w/o the two up riding.
Better than I thought it would be with the needles raised all the way.
I get about 40-45mpg consistently on my bike. I do all back roads with little to no slab.