Have 4 quarts of Redline and a K&N filter ready to go. This info is straight out the Ducati Service manual for my 2011 M796 ABS:
Oil drain plug with magnet: M12x1.5
Torque setting: 20 n/m
min torque: 18 n/m
max torque: 22 n/m
Notes: TB1215 (Ducati Three Bond sealant)
Question 1>>> Do you need to provide new sealant on the drain plug after removal? TB1215 is some kind of vibration resistant silicone sealant apparently. I've read all the oil change threads and no one mentions this as part of the procedure. Whats the consensus?
Question 2>>> Regarding the oil pickup gauze filter; the manual says to clean it every other oil change but in the procedure it says to "replace the mesh filter"? Replace is not the same as clean, so I'm confused. What do you guys recommend? I'm doing an "in between major service" oil change here as the bike sees very few miles (~2000/year tops) in ideal operating conditions - has 3300 miles currently.
I don't use any sealant, but I do use a new crush washer every time.
You just clean the mesh. I just blow it clean with my compressor.
^ same
where would you even use the threebond?
the plug and threads will be coated in oil, and it won't stick. no way you can clean enough off to make it stick.
i've never heard of using it on the drain plug, new crush washer only, as above.
You got the correct torque value for the drain plug. My Ducati service manual (on CD), said the torque is 42nm (30.9 ft-lb) and I busted the aftermarket drain plug (almost busted the stock drain plug).
If you are cleaning the screen, the torque for the cap and the screen is 42nm (30.9 ft-lb). I don't have compressor, so I use carb cleaner and an old tooth brush the clean the screen.
Also, even with me letting the bike drained the oil overnight, I only needed to put in about 2.6liters of oil (with new filter).
I've only done a few hundred of them, but I've never used sealant on a drain plug or prescreen gasket. New gasket (crush washer) torqued correctly seems to do the deed.
Note that Ducati oil filters, if you use the OE part, needs to be quite tight to seal well. Contact plus 7/8 turn, or so, in my experience.
Cloner
Desert Desmo LLC
Thanks for all the input guys. I won't worry about the sealant then. I'll chalk it up to a "lost in translation" issue in the FSM.
Quote from: subin on April 12, 2013, 02:23:14 PM
You got the correct torque value for the drain plug. My Ducati service manual (on CD), said the torque is 42nm (30.9 ft-lb) and I busted the aftermarket drain plug (almost busted the stock drain plug).
If you are cleaning the screen, the torque for the cap and the screen is 42nm (30.9 ft-lb). I don't have compressor, so I use carb cleaner and an old tooth brush the clean the screen.
Also, even with me letting the bike drained the oil overnight, I only needed to put in about 2.6liters of oil (with new filter).
My FSM is the same; it says 42 n/m in the procedure section with the pictures, then under the list of all engine torque specs it gives the proper 20 n/m figure. Those silly Italians.
While we are on the topic, I'll throw some more questions than starting a new thread..
Plan to do an oil change myself this year. I have 5500 miles, and I'll be getting the 7500 mile service done at the dealer anyway. Just want to change the oil and filter before starting out for the season.
Ducati recommends Shell Advance 4T, and I found this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009HOSQ7E/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d2_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=0F5GHRNAY2FQB773XK13&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009HOSQ7E/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d2_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=0F5GHRNAY2FQB773XK13&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846)).. Seems a bit expensive.. Do folks use this? Whats the next best?
The drain plug and crush washer - Do I 'HAVE' to replace them, or can I reuse? Can I buy them online somewhere/specs if anyone has them handy :)
Quote from: Stormtrooper on April 10, 2013, 02:27:04 PM
Question 1>>> Do you need to provide new sealant on the drain plug after removal? TB1215 is some kind of vibration resistant silicone sealant apparently. I've read all the oil change threads and no one mentions this as part of the procedure. Whats the consensus?
Just to clarify, Threebond isn't silicone sealant. It's very good stuff. It's also sold as Yamabond, Hondabond, etc. so you don't need to get it from Ducati. I'm clearly in the minority here and mainly since I always have it on hand I generally do put a tiny amount on drain plugs. Haven't counted lately but I have about 20 machines that run on internal combustion engines and don't always (read hardly ever) have new crush washers for all of them so the TB provides some insurance.
I'm surprised you found Shell Ultra in the US. Any SG or better motorcycle specific oil for a wet clutch, JASO MA2 is fine. Do NOT use any oil marked energy conserving. Too slippery for wet clutches I prefer full synthetics. I use new crush washers if I got 'em, otherwise I use the old ones. They can be matched at a good auto parts store, though the big one is hard to find.
As far as the oil drain plug torque goes on the new Monsters, if the plug is the old size, 22x1.5 the torque spec is 22 Nm. There was a production change and a smaller plug (12x 1.5) the spec is 20Nm. Hint: If a 10 mm allen fits, it is the old size.
Thanks!!
Picked up 3 Quarts of this for $10 a piece
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2nq3nq.jpg)
Will keep the torque spec in mind. Its gona be another week till I get the K&N filter.. But the duc should be happy all summer after that :) [Dolph]
Quote from: sgollapalle on April 17, 2013, 09:55:04 PM
Thanks!!
Picked up 3 Quarts of this for $10 a piece
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2nq3nq.jpg)
Will keep the torque spec in mind. Its gona be another week till I get the K&N filter.. But the duc should be happy all summer after that :) [Dolph]
Nice, I used Redline 10w-40 oil and a K&N filter. After mangling the Ducati filter on removal and having oil leak out of it everywhere I shall never use a filter without the nut on the end; makes life so much easier.
Quote from: Stormtrooper on April 18, 2013, 11:51:53 AM
Nice, I used Redline 10w-40 oil and a K&N filter. After mangling the Ducati filter on removal and having oil leak out of it everywhere I shall never use a filter without the nut on the end; makes life so much easier.
Channel Lock Pliers.
The K&N filter is a repackaged HiFlo filter.
Quote from: ducatiz on April 18, 2013, 02:51:34 PM
Channel Lock Pliers.
The K&N filter is a repackaged HiFlo filter.
Yes , that, plus the fact that they have the nut on the bottom is why I like them. I will use pretty much whatever is available except Fram.
Quote from: howie on April 19, 2013, 02:30:12 AM
Yes , that, plus the fact that they have the nut on the bottom is why I like them. I will use pretty much whatever is available except Fram.
Well, I should have said "repackaged HiFlo at twice the price."
I've gotten HiFlos for as little as $6-7 each in a case, i've never seen the KN below 10-12.
Quote from: ducatiz on April 19, 2013, 04:39:04 PM
Well, I should have said "repackaged HiFlo at twice the price."
I've gotten HiFlos for as little as $6-7 each in a case, i've never seen the KN below 10-12.
I guess sheet metal nuts are expensive :P
For me, two, tops three oil changes a year, no biggie. If I had a stable like you I would definitely order HiFlos by the case.
Quote from: subin on April 12, 2013, 02:23:14 PM
Also, even with me letting the bike drained the oil overnight, I only needed to put in about 2.6liters of oil (with new filter).
I can second this. Drained bike overnight too and still only got about ~2 3/4 quarts in. This is with priming and filling the filter. Kinda sucks knowing that theres over a quart of old oil in there.
I was sold on the neodymiums after reading the big oil thread...
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/jmlenz/20130416_204034_zps21e38318.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/jmlenz/media/20130416_204034_zps21e38318.jpg.html)
Still waiting on the oil filter.. But went and looked under the bike to see which oil drain nut I have. Definitely not the bug one, coz none of them fit a H10 key..
But there are 3 nuts under there and I'm now confused..
(http://i33.tinypic.com/1z149l4.jpg)
#3 and #4 take a H5 allen key
#2 takes a H6 allen key
#1 takes a key >H10
Which one is the oil drain plug and which one is the oil screen?
Appreciate the help!!
#3 is oil plug #1 is filter screen
Quote from: DucNaked on April 21, 2013, 05:13:23 PM
#3 is oil plug #1 is filter screen
Yup, #3 is the drain plug. #1 is the filter screen and you will need a 14mm hex for this sucker. I had to go hunt one down at sears. Once you get that large plug off the filter screen comes out with the same 14mm hex. You never need to touch #2 and #4
Quote from: Stormtrooper on April 21, 2013, 06:16:40 PM
Yup, #3 is the drain plug. #1 is the filter screen and you will need a 14mm hex for this sucker. I had to go hunt one down at sears. Once you get that large plug off the filter screen comes out with the same 14mm hex. You never need to touch #2 and #4
Thanks guys! Will have to visit the store again for that 14mm sucker.
Quote from: howie on April 19, 2013, 11:06:26 PM
I guess sheet metal nuts are expensive :P
For me, two, tops three oil changes a year, no biggie. If I had a stable like you I would definitely order HiFlos by the case.
oy vey... my tzures.
Quote from: Stormtrooper on April 20, 2013, 01:05:44 AM
I can second this. Drained bike overnight too and still only got about ~2 3/4 quarts in. This is with priming and filling the filter. Kinda sucks knowing that theres over a quart of old oil in there.
I was sold on the neodymiums after reading the big oil thread...
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/jmlenz/20130416_204034_zps21e38318.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/jmlenz/media/20130416_204034_zps21e38318.jpg.html)
You've got quite a few on there.. lol.. you only need a couple.
And I've found these are the best:
(http://www.neodymium-magnet.org/photo/big_c53125388bce89093a0bf40c016ea8d5/Permanent-Neodymium-Motor-Magnets.jpg)
Quote from: ducatiz on April 22, 2013, 09:23:52 PM
You've got quite a few on there.. lol.. you only need a couple.
And I've found these are the best:
(http://www.neodymium-magnet.org/photo/big_c53125388bce89093a0bf40c016ea8d5/Permanent-Neodymium-Motor-Magnets.jpg)
yeah probably overkill but they came in a pack of ten, so why not [laugh]
And where, pray tell, did you source the fancy curved magnets?
And I've found these are the best:
(http://www.neodymium-magnet.org/photo/big_c53125388bce89093a0bf40c016ea8d5/Permanent-Neodymium-Motor-Magnets.jpg)
[/quote]
I can't find the place I ordered mine. IIRC they were 24 deg
http://www.magnet4sale.com/Arc-neodymium-ndfeb-Magnets/ (http://www.magnet4sale.com/Arc-neodymium-ndfeb-Magnets/)
I also have some flat ones that are 2" long and about 0.5" wide and work well.
Here is the inside of a set of the flat ones:
Very VERY noticeable swarf collected on the inside surface. ZERO reason not to use them.
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/ducatifiltersurgery/CIMG0375.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/ducatifiltersurgery/CIMG0370.jpg)
Thanks, I have a couple on my filter that I got from McMaster-Carr that are 1 inch by 1/4 by 1/4.
Quote from: SpikeC on April 23, 2013, 09:40:21 PM
Thanks, I have a couple on my filter that I got from McMaster-Carr that are 1 inch by 1/4 by 1/4.
That'll work. I have multiple bikes so got the curved ones after the first go-round.
Finally got around getting this done this past weekend [Dolph]
No stripped bolts, no leaking oil, just a grin on my face doing the first self oil change [thumbsup] Thanks all!