I have M696 12000miles. 50miles ago changed clutch plates. Was good but today it does not engages on 1st gear, I just press lever and noting happens, bike still wants to go. It happens not every time.
We cleaned system from air. Some air was there. But it did not helped.
Mechanic said that plates are new and now they worn down to normal condition and clutch lever has to be adjusted. He adjusted it and it started to work ok. But 10 miles after issue appeared again.
Any suggestions?
You either have a bad slave or a bad master. Remove the slave and look for fluid coming out of the weep hole.
In order to clean system from air, we openned weep hole and liqued came out.
But also lighted fountained from fluid tank ;D
Hopefully you opened the bleeder. The weep hole is in the back of the cylinder and if the seal fails fluid will drip out the back, which is why I said to remove it. If you are not maintaining pressure you have a hydraulic issue, not a clutch mechanical issue.
Oh, I got you, thank you. Will check back tomorrow.
Have to UP topic.
I checked clutch lever, made it to be pressed fully to the handlebar - no help.
I checked slave cylinder, some fluid came up from bleeder. - I think I did not fixed it tight after some checks.- made it tight - no help.
Took of slave cyl - no fluid comes out from the back.
No air in the system.
Soooo, I have to check plates assembly?
From what point should I start now?
in tech manual it says:
under acceleration (and thus with driving torque) the clutch pack will tend to be under a greater load (from springs initially more loaded), while during hard downshifting, the reverse-acting torque will tend to take load off the springs thus causing the plates to slip.
When bike runs down the street I can shift gears freely, but when I stop at red light I can't shift down and then go to Neutral(most of times). Is it have to do something with wrong clutch plates assembly?
Have you played around with the shift rod adjustment?
Is the clutch fluid level the same?
Has it gone down?
What oil are you using in your motorcycle?
I don't see any relation with shift rod. I start bike, I press clutch lever, shift gear to First and it is starts rolling.. and I can't go back to Neutral.
Fluid level is the same.
oil is Motul 15-50W full synth. 3k miles of run period on it now.
Bleed again, slowly. Position the bike so the master is as close to horizontal as possible. Then tie the lever to the grip overnight. If that doesn't work, back bleed; remove master cover, remove some fluid from the reservoir, remove slave, push piston back very slowly, too fast and you will get brake fluid on the paint.
Quote from: kokis on July 09, 2013, 12:44:14 AM
I don't see any relation with shift rod. I start bike, I press clutch lever, shift gear to First and it is starts rolling.. and I can't go back to Neutral.
Fluid level is the same.
oil is Motul 15-50W full synth. 3k miles of run period on it now.
If it has been 'retracted' or 'lengthen' this will change the throw of the shifter; 15W-50? Your bike is supposed to use 10W-40, just sayin'
Thanks Howie, Will try.
Darkmonster620 That's what manual says, but gear change is much better on this oil. I heard it could degrade and cause clutch problem, but i believe it does not degrade in 1 minute, and because of that oil change is not the first item in my list.
Air in the hydraulic system won't keep the clutch from ENGAGING, rather it would keep the clutch from disengaging, as the natural state of the system is clutch engaged.
Sounds like you have a mechanical problem, to me. I'd start by making sure the pressure plate is engaged correctly with the basket. Look for a spring hole with an index mark and make sure it's located over the indexed spring boss on the basket. After that, if it's not the case, you might begin by looking at the clutch pack and make sure it's of the correct height. Make sure the clutch pushrod is firmly seated in the slave cylinder and the socket pressed into the pressure plate. Make sure the socket is firmly pressed into the pressure plate.
Quote from: Cloner on July 09, 2013, 01:39:15 PM
Air in the hydraulic system won't keep the clutch from ENGAGING, rather it would keep the clutch from disengaging, as the natural state of the system is clutch engaged.
Sounds like you have a mechanical problem, to me. I'd start by making sure the pressure plate is engaged correctly with the basket. Look for a spring hole with an index mark and make sure it's located over the indexed spring boss on the basket. After that, if it's not the case, you might begin by looking at the clutch pack and make sure it's of the correct height. Make sure the clutch pushrod is firmly seated in the slave cylinder and the socket pressed into the pressure plate. Make sure the socket is firmly pressed into the pressure plate.
Kokis, can you describe your symptom again? I might have misinterpreted what you said. What happens when you shift from a gear to neutral? Can you find neutral? After you engage first gear and let out the clutch does the bike move forward or stay still. Engaged means clutch transmits power. Disengaged means does not transmit power. Lever pulled to grip should equal no power transmitted. Lever released should equal power transmitted. Which is it? If the clutch will not engage Cloner is correct.
When I pull clutch lever to the grip and switch from Neutral to 1st - bike starts moving.
Other words when bike stands at gear with clutch disengaged - power transmits to wheel, and gear pedal locks.
When bike moves and clutch disengaged - no power transmits to wheel as it should be and I can switch gears.
When I stop at red light, I have to keep pulling clutch lever and brake then turn of key or kill engine, release brakes and keep clutch lever pressed, roll bike little bit and after that gear pedal unlocks and I can switch to Neutral.
That's a horse of a different color. Sounds like the clutch is dragging and won't properly DISENGAGE. Whole different thing.
Look for air (as mentioned) or anything else that might make the clutch pack thicker or might have an adverse effect on clutch actuation. If the air is gone...for sure...absolutely sure....look for an actuator rod that has been spinning and has machined itself short (I've only ever seen two of those, but it's definitely possible!) or has machined through the button in the pressure plate (only seen one of those), a misadjusted lever (common), or if everything looks well just find someone with a collection of various clutch plates and get one or two thinner steels to shorten the pack.
What brand of plates were used in the replacement?
Original Ducati?
Or ? ? ?
OEM.