I bought the Ducati last year and I discovered that outside temperature (possibly engine temp, although it never gets above 215F) is causing it to act like the clutch is slipping. When the temperature is above 90F, RPM spikes under full throttle and hesitates to deliver power to the wheel. It's especially problematic when in first gear. I would have to rev the bike to 7-8k a few times to get it going. When in first gear with the clutch out, it just barely moves (like inches). In normal outside temperature, under 80F, the bike runs perfect. I've been trying to solve this for awhile now. I've checked both sprockets, chain, plugs. I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I know how to google and so far I've got nothing. I've got an appointment scheduled at Ducati at the end of the month, but I'm hoping some people who are smarter than me could point me in the right direction. Thanks.
oil
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Oil. Change it.
Thaks for the quick replies. I just changed the oil and filter a few weeks ago. Should I switch to synthetic?
what did you use?
and yes, sythetic 4T motorcycle oil for wet clutches
I'd flush and bleed the clutch hydraulics.
Quote from: Speeddog on May 15, 2013, 04:22:28 PM
I'd flush and bleed the clutch hydraulics.
that would be 2nd for me..
i had this issue riding in italy 3 years ago. i didnt have the best oil for the high heat.
I'm an idiot then. I used regular 10w-40. I'll change it this week. And I will flush and bleed the clutch hydraulics as well.
Do the flush and bleed first, it'd suck to change the oil and not have it help.
Quote from: sweet8 on May 15, 2013, 04:30:14 PM
I'm an idiot then. I used regular 10w-40. I'll change it this week. And I will flush and bleed the clutch hydraulics as well.
CAR? 10w-40
then most definitely that's your issue
If you did use automotive and not motorcycle specific, i think there's a procedure you have to do to clean your clutch plates.
reason is automotive has additives that cause clutch slippage
Just to clarify.....
Was the clutch acting badly prior to the recent oil change?
Quote from: Raux on May 15, 2013, 04:43:50 PM
If you did use automotive and not motorcycle specific, i think there's a procedure you have to do to clean your clutch plates.
reason is automotive has additives that cause clutch slippage
Not to stir up more which oil is better argument, but actually car oil is perfectly fine as long as the weight is correct AND there is NO molybdenum. That is what causes the clutch slippage. Typically the high mileage additives are in oil labeled for high mileage. I've been running car oil for awhile now and no clutch slippage on my s2r800. I personally find that oils labelled "for motorcycle" are just the same as normal car oil jjust overpriced.
I usually run Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil as it's cheap by the gallon at wallyworld
Quote from: xsephirot on May 16, 2013, 09:18:44 AM
Not to stir up more which oil is better argument, but actually car oil is perfectly fine as long as the weight is correct AND there is NO molybdenum. That is what causes the clutch slippage. Typically the high mileage additives are in oil labeled for high mileage. I've been running car oil for awhile now and no clutch slippage on my s2r800. I personally find that oils labelled "for motorcycle" are just the same as normal car oil jjust overpriced.
I usually run Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil as it's cheap by the gallon at wallyworld
Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40 is JASO-MA certified. It is certified as a motorcycle oil.
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T6_5W-40_%28CJ-4%29_%28en-US%29_TDS_v1.pdf (http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T6_5W-40_%28CJ-4%29_%28en-US%29_TDS_v1.pdf)
i'm with SD on this.
If the engine is up to temp and the only difference between slipping and not slipping is ambient air temp, then i doubt its the engine oil. If your clutch fluid is a dark color it needs changing anyways.
Quote from: xsephirot on May 16, 2013, 09:18:44 AM
Not to stir up more which oil is better argument, but actually car oil is perfectly fine as long as the weight is correct AND there is NO molybdenum. That is what causes the clutch slippage. Typically the high mileage additives are in oil labeled for high mileage. I've been running car oil for awhile now and no clutch slippage on my s2r800. I personally find that oils labelled "for motorcycle" are just the same as normal car oil jjust overpriced.
I usually run Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil as it's cheap by the gallon at wallyworld
You are correct that any oil of the correct weight, as long as it is not energy conserving should be fine as far as the clutch goes, but post SJ rating car oil is often missing the additives needed for protecting transmission gears and camshafts.
FWIW, during my oil cooler delete I used Mobil 1 15W50 silver cap. Oil temps have not broken 180F and the clutch is completely stable. This particular auto oil does not have friction modifiers. And it was better than paying the $25/qt at the bike shop for 4T 15W50. [puke]
(Yes, I will be changing the oil to lighter weight for the cooler months)
I had plain, chevron 10w-40 oil that I used to use for my ZX-10R that I thought would work for the Ducati as well. My mistake. I changed the oil over the weekend and it's made a world of a difference. No more weird throttle jumps or other problems. Thanks for all the replies. If the problem arises again, I'll post back here.
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