Ducati Monster Forum

I know the subject is around but I want to relocate without going to an open crank case.  Thoughts?   I'm not sure the wire is long enough to stretch to the underside.   I have an 06 S4r. 
Thanks

Are you running a mosfet regulator already?

My stock one burned out last year and I mounted it directly under the plastic. It's quite a tough plastic that I had to drill through. I didn't feel like fabricating an aluminum cut like some members have done here so if you're lazy like me, you can mount it directly under. The lines *should* reach if you put it more forward

mine is stock but I'm afraid of it as it gets hot as hell.  I'll pull the seat and see how much room I have to fool with it.  Do you have a pic of your mod?
Thanks.

If you're going to the effort of moving it, move it as far as the bin and put a Shindengen FH020AA MOSFET one on instead.

Works heaps betterer.

http://roadstercycle.com/ (http://roadstercycle.com/)

I checked on my S4, and it wasn't possible to move it to an inconspicuous location that had some airflow, without modding the wiring.

It's an ugly widget, so I left it in the stock location.

Honestly, suzyj has the sage advice, ditch the Fred Flintstone tech OEM unit and you can leave it where it is.

My lack of electrical knowledge makes me a bit hesitant about the Sindengen option but its good to know there is a option for a replacement unit of quality other than OEM.  Wonder if there is a write up or any pics of a Shindingen on a Monster.  

So it wont interfere with a PC3 or anything like that?  Oh and how/why is it better than OEM regulator? 

so it does run significantly cooler?

A normal rectifier/regulator uses diodes and SCRs. An SCR is a diode that can be turned on with a gate control. When the stator voltage gets too high (when you're revving hard), the SCRs are turned on, shorting out the stator and thus limiting the voltage.

The trouble is, when you turn on an SCR, you get a couple of volts drop across it. This voltage, combined with the current from the stator is dissipated as heat by the unit. Quite a bit of heat.

A MOSFET regulator uses MOSFETs in place of the SCRs. When you turn a MOSFET on, it looks like a resistor rather than a voltage. Depending on the size of the MOSFET, the voltage drop across it can be very low (like tens of millivolts), so the amount of power that the rectifier/regulator has to dissipate can be significantly less.

Note I said can be. If you use cheap parts, you can make a MOSFET rectifier/regulator that's every bit as bad as an SCR one. The Shindengen one however is pretty good.

Also, there are still diodes in the rectifier/regulator. These have around 0.7 to 1V drop, so they're still a significant source of heat. You cold use MOSFETs here too, and end up with very little dissipation, but to my knowledge nobody does this yet.

MOSFET rectifier regulators have nothing in them that will "interfere" with electronics on the bike.

TLDR: MOSFET rectifiers are betterer. They don't burn your bum.

I use one on my bike, though the electronics on my bike aren't exactly stock. See http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56614.msg1081527#msg1081527 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56614.msg1081527#msg1081527)

Not to make you even more worried, but the R/R on my 06 S4R burned out not too long ago.  Ended up gettin a Hot Shot R/R from Rick's Motorsports.  Uses MOSFET technology.  Have been super happy with it since installed and the weather in DC has been blazing hot.  Today was 95+ outside and felt ok doing a 2+ hour ride. Also have the same thing in my S4.  No issues there as well after that one burned out.  No relocation for their. 

http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/10-008H/MDZEdWM5MTZNb25zdGVyTVM0Ug== (http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/10-008H/MDZEdWM5MTZNb25zdGVyTVM0Ug==) 
 

So I printed out the Shindengen dimensions and I'm scratching my head trying to figure out if I can make it work in the stock location.  Bolt pattern is different, but that's easily solved.  Space looks iffy.  Is the Hot Shot a drop in?

BK

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2pr699t.jpg)

Just thinking of maybe trimming the box that the regulator sits on with a hacksaw.  More specifically, chopping down the top of the box (the part right in front of the regulator).  Then maybe somehow sealing it back up with epoxy.   I think lowering the top of the  box directly in front of the regulator would open up airflow by a good margin.  Basically can cut a piece plexiglass or something the same shape as the border of the portion that was cut then use the epoxy as a sort of gasket; why not?

I have rerouted a handful of wires under the fuel tank.  I also rerouted fuel lines (put them through the battery bracket for a cleaner look).  As a result I'm sure I have restricted airflow to the regulator.

TPO do a kit with a little filter that fits on your crankcase breather, plus plugs for your air box. Provides much better airflow for your rectifier.

I really doubt it'll fit on the breather, as its shorter, thicker, and considerably deeper due to the connectors. I moved mine quite a ways.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZN9i96Xs1NI/UZhodOa6SPI/AAAAAAAACo0/DKo709lZd4M/w1676-h1113-no/DSC_3553.JPG)

Yeah I know about the kit, just thought maybe that chopping & re-shaping the breather box would be another maybe easier alternative for dealing with the issue for those who wouldn't mind keeping the breather box instead of opening it up w/ breather filter.  Thats a nice looking setup you got there btw.  You change your battery?  

All electrons take a new path in suzyj's setup!

BK

I'm going to assume thats a good thing 

Yes, I like to show the electrons who's boss.

I'm about to show the box that the regulator is mounted on who's boss; with this hacksaw I have here

suzy please please please make a kit of your electronic wiring! I love that everything is so clean and you have that electronic board thingy that acts in place of fuses  [bow_down] [bow_down]

I mounted mine under the bottom triple tree with the fins facing downward. Didn't have to lengthen any wires though I did delete the connectors and straight soldered it.
For mounting I just made two L brackets which are bolted to the holes where the headlight U bracket connects.

well we are waiting to battle pics....pronto!

(https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/557749_4262477565396_1172500745_n.jpg)

this only has one bolt, i later ran a piece of alum bar across and put a second bolt through it.

total cost about $4

 [thumbsup]  Wonder if that setup works with the rain

On my S4 i made up a 6mm thick aluminium plate to fit the mounting hole under the seat  and also acts as a good heatsink , the plate is slightly bigger than the regulator  and the regulator is also mounted upside down for more air flow ,

it runs much cooler than before .

I had some communications with Ricks Motorsport Electrics on this topic, so I will answer my own question.  Their "Hot Shot" is a cooler running mosfet type R/R and it has overall dimensions and bolt pattern to fit the stock location on my monster.  Wire length and connector ends hook right up, although if I were going to the trouble I'd convert to sealed Metric-Pack connections.  14.8V output setpoint.  Not sure it's "better" than the Shindegen, but it would seem to drop right in for similar $$.

BK

I mounted my Shindengen to the same spot where the old one was (using just one bolt). The connectors interfered with the tool box under the seat. A few minutes with a dremel, and it fit just fine. The MOSFET units can be left under the seat, since they don't heat up, even after extended rides. I butt-spliced some 14 AWG teflon insulated wire from the alternator to the Furukawa connector, and wrapped the bundle in some polyester expandable tubing. This got rid of the white plastic spade connectors that are often a failure point.

That's what I was thinking - rotate the Shindengen 180 degrees and dremel the underseat toolbox for clearance.  You also have a 695, so our requirements should be very similar.  Cool.

BK