It was hot out today and I was riding at a somewhat spirited pace. Clutch started slipping. Came home and checked fluid level and made sure that there was movement in the fluid when I pulled the lever. The issue I'm having is after bleeding it, there will be movement in the fluid but only for a few pulls then it goes away. The adjustment screw on the lever (pazzo) is all the way out already, so I'm a little curious as to what I can do to keep the clutch from slipping when it gets hot.
Would too much fluid in the reservoir also cause slipping when it gets hot?
Thanks
Gitter
Looks to me you`ve still got air in the system. To much fluid can cause slipping but the handle would be stiff all the time and not going slack.
Overfull reservoir can cause slippage as well as an improper lever free play adjustment or engine oil your clutch doesn't like. Air will cause clutch drag, not slip.
Lever free play should be about 2mm.
Test rode the bike, seemed to do well, no slipping issues. I suspect my reservoir was over filled
so...it seems like once the bike gets up to 4 ticks on the temp it starts to slip at full throttle. Bled clutch again, adjustment screw is all the way out, reservoir is at the appropriate level. I'm running mobil 1 10-40 (the moto specific one) Anyone ever have any issues with with their clutch not liking that oil? Anything else I can check? Having my clutch slip in a corner is...scary to say the least.
How many miles on the bike?
My first two clutches started slipping at peak torque (~6-7K revs) after 15,000 miles when using synthetic 10/40. My third clutch still going strong at 30,000 miles when using semi synthetic 20/50.
If that will translate to your bike.... don't know.
If it will help when/if the plates are worn... don't know that either ... just a suggestion
Bike has 3700 miles
Also where do I check free play for the clutch lever?
Free play is checked at the lever itself - no resistance the first few millimeter.
If the bike is still under warranty, let the dealer fix this?
isn't 20-50 speced for this bike?
Ive had the bike for a little over a year, however Ive done all the services myself so I'm not sure if my warranty is still good. I dont have any free play at the lever that I can see. The adjustment screw is all the way out. Isnt that how I adjust the free play?
That's how you do it, but if it's that far out there should be some free play...
Plunger rod seated in the cup at the end of the adjuster screw?
As far as I can tell it is. Are there levers that dont offer enough free play? (I cant imagine this being the case due to the fact that pazzo is one of the larger manufacturers when it comes to levers)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s103/jmd2914/2012%20Ducati%20796/EF302F83-A470-4A77-97DD-351289FB7AB3-39391-00002FB2DF02BCC7.jpg)
Does that look normal?
Looks good, but that doesn't mean much. You want 1-1.5mm. (.04-.06") at the lever. I posted 2mm. before more as a trouble shooting guide. Too much free play can cause clutch drag, making it hard to find neutral.
It seems the 696-796 clutch is pretty sensitive to oil, probably do to the(sort of) slipper design. The two easiest, cheapest DIY fixes I can think of are a different brand or weight oil or heavier clutch springs. Heavier springs could possibly reduce or eliminate the slipper action and increase pressure at the lever. You could speak to the dealer about a warranty solution. Grey area, wear is the owner's problem, manufacturer's defect is Ducati's. If you keep riding with the clutch slipping you will need a new one. I would try a 15W or 20W-50 first. Your bike should work with the Mobil 4T, but...
The clutch only slips when the bike is hot. Other than that it grabs perfectly fine. I ran the same oil last summer and it was fine. I changed levers to the Pazzos over the winter and when the weather started getting hot (90+) thats the first time it ever started slipping. Which would make me think that it has something to do with the levers.
But if the screw is backed all the way out and the level is where it needs to be (with the cap off its right at the top of the letters (MIN)) I dont know what else to check as far as the lever / fluid side of it.
http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html (http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html)
Scroll down. This is an alternative method of getting the correct free play. If the free play is correct, your next logical, cheap fix is to try a heavier oil. Last year is last year. A few less miles on the clutch, plus the extra wear and tear from this year's slipping. Keep riding with a slipping clutch and you will need a new clutch.
Picked up oil today. Went with this
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s103/jmd2914/2BBECFFC-8C1B-4F61-AF9E-4173D2D49439-40046-00003106620B4343.jpg)
From what I read it's fine but can someone clarify if jaso-ma2 rated oil is ok to use? (Instead of jaso-ma)
Thanks
In terms of eliminating clutch slippage MA2 is better than MA1, so yes.
Fantastic. I'll get it swapped out and report back.
Another question, I know when I drain the oil, I'm not going to get everything (all the 10-40) out. Is this going to be an issue with switching to 10-50 or will I not even notice?
Guess you will have about 20W-49. Don't worry about it.
FWIW my 796 is still having some clutch issues. In another thread I previously reported the issue was solved by changing oil type but I spoke too soon because once everything became really hot excessive noise (no slip) returned. Reason I'm posting is that I took it to the only dealership I can easily reach and the tech I had look at it agreed it was a "little noisy" but had no interest in attempting a fix and suggested any work would not be covered under the few weeks of warranty remaining due to "normal wear and tear" blah blah. I also have Pazzo levers but I seem to have both set up perfectly without the issue the OP is experiencing with free play. Now I'm sort of waiting for something bad to happen..
[coffee]
take it into the shop anyway and have it documented.
not sure about Ducati but some manufacturers will cover a warranty item that occurred before the end of the warranty but was not diagnosed until after.
cyberswine,
when you get a chance you should update your thread with your latest developments.
Theres a lot of experienced helpful people that will help you find your problem BEFORE something bad happens.
also readers will not be misled by a non fix.
changed my oil today. Went for a short spin after. Couldnt get the clutch to slip but its only 75deg and I only got the temp gauge up to three ticks. But so far so good. I'll report back once we get some hotter weather here and I can test the bike in the same conditions it was slipping in before.
Out of curiosity, the clutch started slipping after the bike had been sitting (once at a stop light and once when I was getting gas) for about 4 or 5 min. Would the fact that the clutch started slipping after the bike was stationary be indicative of using too thin of an oil? I realize that there is a checklist for my issue ( thank you guys btw for the help) this was just more out of curiosity.
How old was the container of brake fluid you used for filling and bleeding?
Now that you mention it it's dot4 and it's about 3 years old...yes feel free to judge me...I should probably get new fluid
Try getting some new fluid, and doing another flush and bleed.
Pretty cheap experiment.
sounds like it could be worth a shot. What happens when the fluid gets old? Clutch just doesnt function like it should?
Brake fluid absorbs water over time, which turns to steam when it gets hot enough, causing odd clutch or brake function.
Just to update the thread, Its been 100+ for the past two days, after switching to 10-50 the clutch is holding well, no slipping at all. Even after trying to get it to slip (replicating the conditions from before when it was slipping) it refused to slip.
[thumbsup]
Rock and Roll!