Ducati Monster Forum

i have seached high and low to find a headlight and guage
lowering kit a s2r 1000 can not find one. anyone know
where i can get from or has one for sale

The only kit i know off is the CNC racing fork collars which is a good way to go. [thumbsup]
Bwian has just used them on his bike they replace the complete u bracket assembly.

Note the collars between to top and lower triple clamps. 8)
   
link CNC RACING http://www.cncracing.us/prodDetail.asp?ID=26 (http://www.cncracing.us/prodDetail.asp?ID=26)

(http://www.cncracing.us/images/Fork%20Collars.jpg)

(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t70/robert3520/IMAG1688_zpsaee429c1.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/robert3520/media/IMAG1688_zpsaee429c1.jpg.html)

The other way to go is to cut the welds on the u bracket and either re weld or rivet in a lower position.or something along those lines  :-\
more info in this thread

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1050.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1050.0)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/Headlight%20mods/mar085Small.jpg)

does the ligh sit lower with the cnc clamps.
want the same look as duke 8 has on his black s4

Yep,with the CNC clamps you can position the headlight up and down were you want ,just loosen the clamps and slide.
You may have to play around with the clock mounting. to get them to fit under the  top triple clamp.
 some else might help you out there ???

how is the light connected on there with the clamps.
 [bang] cant work it out how ikts connected

The brackets that hold the headlight bucket on, are bolted on to the U bracket with two bolts on each side .
Easy as, just undo the two 6mm cap screws holding the headlight on and have a look.

i cut the U bracket on my s2r1k in order to lower the headlight. at the time, there were really no other options.

i am happy with it, but had those clamps been available at the time, i might have chosen that route instead..?

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_OisNklcEQI/UbOlYmZ6T_I/AAAAAAAAC-I/97h96SfSTCs/w1029-h812-no/DSC01525.JPG)

Call me weird but I really like the design on the Std headlight mount, gives a nice clean look to the fork tubes between the triples, almost as if the brackets are floating. The bottom mount keeps the brake lines & speedo cables neat.

I should add, the gauges are also lowered,...below the triple.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mEm6o8sUbBE/UbPFtzyGhZI/AAAAAAAAC-s/pC5lm7280_I/w307-h294-no/DSC01539.JPG)

I note all the blurbs about lowering gauges comment on rubber mounts for the gauges.

The rubber mounts that our gauges sit on are a carry-over from when we had incandescent bulbs illuminating them. Gauges don't have filaments any more, so there's no need to rubber mount them. This makes the process of lowering much easier.

After lowering both headlight and gauges on both Mrs Dogs 695 and my S2R using the U bracket
I would recommend Sir Wobbits suggestion.

I cut drilled and SS riveted my U bracket ,its fiddly and a pain . You have to get the length exact
when cutting the U bracket.
If you don't the headlight will not be stable and will wobble and shake over every bump as the top of the
U tube must fit snug under the bottom of the clocks over the fixings .
That's If you are lowering the gauges along with the headlight.
Recommended or there will be a big ugly gap between the bucket and the gauges.

The downside is if you loose the U bracket you loose the brake line retention which Wobbit oops sorry Sir Wobbit
resolved by machining one up Maybe if you ask him nicely   ;) and have an unlimited supply of fine Patisserie's  [cheeky]

You also need to Dremel / grind the shoulder that runs down towards the clock (upper) fixings holes so it fits flush under the bottom of the triples.
And I concur with Suzy about the need for rubber grommets on the clocks.
It is so much better without them as now the clocks don't jiggle around like a pair of un holstered titties on a jogger  ;D

I always thought the grommets were to isolate the plastic mounts from vibrations and prevent damage to said mounts.

It's something I've always done, clocks and headlights with some sort of rubber mounting. But sometimes I tend to over think things.

I did a really sharp looking headlight mount for a customer, using those CNC collars.
Note, used one pair 50mm and one pair 54mm, due to where they fit on the forks.

Really looked the business:

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/8991747585_07ce82b094_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8991747585/)

Downside.... it would shake the bulb shield off inside the headlight reflector assembly.  [bang]

Best to preserve some rubber mounting.

Hey Speeddog very sharp indeed,hope there is no Patent on that, as i think i will copy that idea on the next project [thumbsup]

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/8991747585_07ce82b094_o.jpg)




Suzy that's interesting to know ;)
I'm no expert on that stuff, i thought it was more for the mechanical clocks ,as to not rattle the shit out off them. ???
I was thinking along the lines as Ozzy Rob as well,being a plastic case help save the mounting points from breaking  ???

Hi speeddog are you making and selling
These brackets.