I have a plan to make my bike keyless. I understand the safety concerns regarding this. The plan is to have a waterproof on/off toggle near the dash area with a secondary on/off toggle in a hidden location that is in line. The starter button will also be relocated and replaced and a hex bolt head put in place of the commonly seen red button. Right hand control housing will then be removed.
My question is about switch types and amperage.
For the two on/off toggles, they would be SPDT switches right? 15 or 30 amp?
For the momentary switch I would need at least 7.5 amps right?
I believe you want SPST switches...on or off.
I'd buy switches of the same rating of the big fuse near the battery as you'll most likely be switching that circuit too. I think it's 30 amp.
You want a switch for the starter of the same rating as the circuit it's on. I think it's on the ignition circuit on your bike. A monster uses 7.5 for that circuit.
Which monster?
Older ones drive the starter contactor directly with the start button, which draws about 8A. Newer ones just use the starter button as an input to the ECU, so naff-all current.
Ignition switch powers a few amps. All the big loads (fuel pump, headlight) are via relays.
Quote from: suzyj on June 17, 2013, 02:00:54 PM
Which monster?
Older ones drive the starter contactor directly with the start button, which draws about 8A. Newer ones just use the starter button as an input to the ECU, so naff-all current.
Ignition switch powers a few amps. All the big loads (fuel pump, headlight) are via relays.
His is a dinosaur... ;)
How is the charging circuit switched?
Quote from: ducpainter on June 17, 2013, 04:06:48 PM
His is a dinosaur... ;)
I prefer "classic"....
Is there a danger in going with a larger momentary? I can locate plenty 10 amp buttons.
Quote from: memper on June 17, 2013, 04:12:47 PM
I prefer "classic"....
Is there a danger in going with a larger momentary? I can locate plenty 10 amp buttons.
Never a danger with over-building.
I'd recommend going the extra $ for sealed (MILspec) switches.
Typical auto shop units are a bit dodgy even when warm and dry inside a car.
Quote from: Speeddog on June 17, 2013, 04:16:31 PM
I'd recommend going the extra $ for sealed (MILspec) switches.
Typical auto shop units are a bit dodgy even when warm and dry inside a car.
Oh, no doubt. I have lots of experience with the crap switches from chain auto stores.
I found some stainless steel, waterproof buttons at Plasmaglow. 10 amps and they come as momentary or as push on/push off (is that still considered spst but "locking"?)
I just won't connect the LED which will give away my secret plan.
Anyone know of something similar but without the LED?
http://www.carid.com/universal-led-lights/plasmaglow-led-lighting-860342.html (http://www.carid.com/universal-led-lights/plasmaglow-led-lighting-860342.html)
Quote from: ducpainter on June 17, 2013, 04:06:48 PM
His is a dinosaur... ;)
How is the charging circuit switched?
It isn't. It's always connected directly to the battery, via the 30A fuse.
Quote from: suzyj on June 17, 2013, 07:04:22 PM
It isn't. It's always connected directly to the battery, via the 30A fuse.
In that case the 15 amp switches would be adequate.
Thanks guys/gal. So I will do two 15 amp switches for the run/kills and a 10 amp for the starter.