DMF,
I recently had my bike on pitbulls for about a month enduring the complicated process of changing its tires. I have very little mechanical skills, but I am willing to learn.
With that said, please help me diagnose this situation and guide me as to how I should deal with it!
These are problems I acknowledge with my bike: (2000 750 Monster)
1. The battery is weak: I didn't put a tender on it during this time so it wouldn't start immediately. I had to tender it for about 20 hours before it would start consistantly.
2. The tank was pretty full during the tire change: I read that if you leave a bike sitting with a full tank, the carbs will build up gunk.
3. The bike was poorly maintained by the previous owner so I'm guessing the carbs have never been cleaned.
It's recently become more frequent that when I start up my bike, the initial seconds its trying to turn over will be accompanied with a loud pop sound from the mufflers. Today I noticed that after the pop, there was white smoke coming from my right muffler as well as white smoke coming from the valves leading to the carb on the right side of the bike. I was a little freaked out to try to turn it over again, but when I tried, it started up fine...no smoke, no pops.
The current tank has a few ounces of Seafoam through the tank so I'm not sure if that would be causal to the white smoke.
So here are my exhaustive list of questions:
1. Does it sound like the issue is that I need a carb cleaning? (I'm assuming it is)
2. Is it a big deal if my carb pops when I initially start it? (it's not life threatening or anything is it?!)
3. Should I be riding it?
4. The process for cleaning the carbs of a 2000 750 monster...
a. ...how much would it cost?
b. ...Should I do it myself? Am I even capable?
c. ...if yes, is there a really great guide you guys recommend?
As always DMF, I highly appreciate your advice. I've learned much from you guys. <3
Charge battery and get it load tested. Replace if needed.
Before delving into the carbs, are you using the choke properly?
Quote from: howie on August 02, 2013, 10:55:38 AM
Charge battery and get it load tested. Replace if needed.
Before delving into the carbs, are you using the choke properly?
Yes. Initially, I'll turn start the engine with choke at around 70%. If it turns over, I'll leave it there for 10 seconds and eventually turn it down to 30-40%.
Could you expand on what 'load tested' is?
30-40% is where you leave it while you ride?
You should have it turned all the way back to no choke within a couple minutes of starting the bike, at the most.
Also, just a month of sitting with gasoline in the tank really isn't that bad, and probably isn't the sole culprit. HOWEVER, that doesn't mean you shouldn't look into getting your carbs cleaned. Cleaning the carbs is definitely something you can do on your own, but if you don't feel comfortable, it's something any bike shop could do in an afternoon. Where are you located? Maybe you have a fellow board member close.
Quote from: ChrisK on August 02, 2013, 12:22:32 PM
30-40% is where you leave it while you ride?
You should have it turned all the way back to no choke within a couple minutes of starting the bike, at the most.
Also, just a month of sitting with gasoline in the tank really isn't that bad, and probably isn't the sole culprit. HOWEVER, that doesn't mean you shouldn't look into getting your carbs cleaned. Cleaning the carbs is definitely something you can do on your own, but if you don't feel comfortable, it's something any bike shop could do in an afternoon. Where are you located? Maybe you have a fellow board member close.
I should have been more specific. I turn my choke down to 30-40 for about 20 seconds, then I turn it all the way down before riding.
I would love to do it myself, I'm just scared it's going to explode when I turn it on (hence why i need a good guide)
I live in San Leandro in the Bay Area.
I would think there would be somebody around there that can help you out.
This doesn't show a carb cleaning but it does show you what it will be like taking the carbs out of your bike and what the internals will look like:
http://ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html (http://ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html)
All you basically do is take it all apart, blast it with carb cleaner (all the little holes and passages), and then put it back together.
Quote from: ChrisK on August 02, 2013, 01:11:56 PM
I would think there would be somebody around there that can help you out.
This doesn't show a carb cleaning but it does show you what it will be like taking the carbs out of your bike and what the internals will look like:
http://ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html (http://ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html)
All you basically do is take it all apart, blast it with carb cleaner (all the little holes and passages), and then put it back together.
I'll be honest...I shit my pants a little when I saw all those steps and pictures...
Looks like a delicate process AKA, looks like there are a lot of ways to get myself killed.
I appreciate the advice though guys.
If there were someone who knew what they were doing in the bay area, I'd love to learn what I can!
The first thing that you should do is take your bike out for a good LONG ride. Then do that a few more times. See if it helps.
Quote from: SpikeC on August 02, 2013, 08:57:02 PM
The first thing that you should do is take your bike out for a good LONG ride. Then do that a few more times. See if it helps.
Agreed. You might get lucky.
A load test is a test of your battery's capacity. First, your battery should be checked for state of charge. Your battery must be at least 75% charged. This can be done with a hydrometer if you have a conventional battery (not sealed). You need a reading of 1.225 or higher, no more than .050 difference in cells, go no further. No battery hydrometer or you have a sealed battery? No problem, haven't had one of those nasty, put holes in your clothing devices for years. Measure the charge across your battery with a digital meter. If the battery is coming off the charger, turn the key on for a fewseconds to remove the surface charge. 12.4 or higher for a conventional is good for testing, higher for a maintenance free (absorbed glass mat or gel battery), opinions differ, but I would want to see at least 12.6. This is called open circuit voltage as there is no load on the battery, and shows state of charge, not over all battery health. If your battery will not reach 12.4 volts no matter how long you charge it (assuming the charger works), no need to go further. Your battery is not good.
Now you are ready to load test. The load test measures the ability to deliver stored current (amperes). A load of 3X the amp hour rating or 1/2 the CCA rating is applied for 15 seconds. If the battery drops below 9.6 volts replace. This is at 70
oF. There are temperature correcting charts, but I don't bother. 100
oF (electrolyte temperature) would be 9.9 volts, 0
oF would be 8.5 volts.
An alternative, if your meter has a max high low function, is disable ignition or fuel injection and, with meter across the battery, crank for 15 seconds. Low reading is less than 9.6? Replace battery.