After sitting for two years, I took my bike to a local shop and had it all fixed up. They flushed the water out of the fuel system, filled with fresh gas, replaced the fuel filter, cleaned/rebuilt the carbs (but didn't need to replace any parts, they said). Also put in a new air filter, timing belts, oil change/filter, brake flush/fluid, clutch flush/fluid, they also did new fork seals/fluid. Only modifications it has: bypassed vacuum petcock, installed manual petcock, capped unused vac fitting on intake, DanMoto Conical exhausts.
For the first 50-60 miles it was running ok, seemed like a low idle, and a bit rougher than I remember it being...but decent when I got on the throttle (but still not as smooth as I remember). Shop said the battery had some dead cells, so I bought a new battery and charged it overnight. Also put in some new NGK plugs (gapped correctly). Before I put in the new battery, went to go for a ride, when I started it with choke it was really rough and didn't seem to warm up and smooth out. After a few minutes (maybe 2) I shut the choke and it dropped down into a lopey idle, and stalled. Starts right back up, will run if I give it throttle, but it hesitates and chuffs, if I chop the throttle, it stalls. Put in the new battery and new NGK plugs, starts better/faster, but still has the low idle/stall problem. Not seeing any kinks in the fuel line. Looks like they disconnected they two vent/return lines that go to the gas tank and forgot to reconnect them, so I hooked them back up (but might have them reversed?).
Any ideas? I'm not super happy, since I just spent a ton of cash at the shop (and they are supposed to be the best/most reputable shop in town) and it's not running right.
It is not uncommon for a bike plagued with bad fuel to take more than one attempt to get right. Contaminants can get trapped in the system, fuel pump chambers, low spots in fuel hoses, etc. Bring the bike back to the folks who did the work. Also, 2 minutes of choke is a bit much. You might have fouled your new plugs.
Quote from: howie on August 26, 2013, 01:41:41 PM
It is not uncommon for a bike plagued with bad fuel to take more than one attempt to get right. Contaminants can get trapped in the system, fuel pump chambers, low spots in fuel hoses, etc. Bring the bike back to the folks who did the work. Also, 2 minutes of choke is a bit much. You might have fouled your new plugs.
I'm likely exaggerating on the choke time, I'll pull the plugs and make sure they're good still though. They said they ran 6 gal of new fuel through the system to flush everything out.
I would love to bring it back, but it costs me $60 to trailer it down there, and they have a racing team, so the shop is closed for the next week. [bang]
I would recommend buying and installing a new set of pilot jets in the carbs, and that should resolve the problem.
BC.
Quote from: Bladecutter on August 26, 2013, 02:29:03 PM
I would recommend buying and installing a new set of pilot jets in the carbs, and that should resolve the problem.
BC.
Hmm, I specifically mentioned jets/emulsion tubes to them, but they said (when I picked it up) that everything was fine. The bike has 17,000 miles on it, I hope they aren't bullshitting me, and that they actually pulled the carbs apart...
You have a point on the needle jets for sure and the bike should be running great after all that $$$.
I have seen carbs that were in otherwise great condition with completely blocked slow and main jets. The gunk had to be physically removed with correct size wire as soaking in carb cleaner overnight did nothing. The jets were soaked after the wire cleaning which removed the remaining crud. There is however, the possibility of damaging the jet by being ham fisted or ramming in a large wire or drill bit. Maybe now is the time for Factory Pro needle jets and a jet kit.
The main and slow/pilot jets might be "downsized" with a layer of crud, while your needle jet is ovaled out.
I really hope they didnt just run gas thru the carbs without first pulling them apart and cleaning them. While often works as a first try sometimes nothing less than a carb service/rebuild will do the job.
Those sort of parts can look just fine on a visual inspection, butt that does not mean that they ARE in fact fine.......butt what do I know, I have been injected since 86 or so, except fot the 65 Triumph, and those carbs are just a bit different!
Amals :D.
Quote from: koko64 on August 26, 2013, 03:42:50 PM
You have a point on the needle jets for sure and the bike should be running great after all that $$$.
I have seen carbs that were in otherwise great condition with completely blocked slow and main jets. The gunk had to be physically removed with correct size wire as soaking in carb cleaner overnight did nothing. The jets were soaked after the wire cleaning which removed the remaining crud. There is however, the possibility of damaging the jet by being ham fisted or ramming in a large wire or drill bit. Maybe now is the time for Factory Pro needle jets and a jet kit.
Ok, so, I would need the Factory Pro Jet Kit (for each carb?) (http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/factory-pro-titanium-kit-5298) and a [Factory Pro needle jet (two, one per carb?)[/url], oh, and the O-Rings as well (http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/main-jet-o-ring-for-ducati-mikuni-cv-carbs)?
Quote from: koko64 on August 26, 2013, 03:42:50 PMThe main and slow/pilot jets might be "downsized" with a layer of crud, while your needle jet is ovaled out.
I really hope they didnt just run gas thru the carbs without first pulling them apart and cleaning them. While often works as a first try sometimes nothing less than a carb service/rebuild will do the job.
I really hope they didn't do that as well. Especially as I paid to have the carbs torn down and rebuilt. They did get it done suspiciously fast. Is there any way to confirm a tear-down and cleaning? Do I have to worry about diaphragms too?
Quote from: koko64 on August 26, 2013, 03:51:57 PM
Amals :D.
Que? ???
One jet kit covers the pair of carbs.
Grab 2 needle jets and 2 little o-rings (just in case you loose them in the tear down). CCW has all those parts, Monsterparts and Motowheels should too. All are sponsors.
Pardon me, I should have quoted Spike C. I was referring to the Amal carbs on Spike C's old Triumph ;D. They're like an ancient, Limey, Dellorto! [laugh] They work ok.
Monoblocks!!
Yet another reason to do your own work. Think of all the tools you could buy with the money spent from a year of shop service fees.
Quote from: memper on August 27, 2013, 10:27:57 AM
Yet another reason to do your own work. Think of all the tools you could buy with the money spent from a year of shop service fees.
I have a full set of tools, more than I would need for the bike. What I don't have is time, or a garage...
Heuuuu .....the carburetor has been rebuild ...silly question but ..... is the idle adjusted correctly ? [bang]
And if you want to rebuilt it NRP-carbs.co/shop model KY-0569N
If you have a BDST- mukini 38 mm here you go.... everything you need in one kit o-rings, jets...everyting!!!! I've rebuild mine this year best mood I've done so far [bow_down]
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Photos-0055_zpsed018019.jpg)
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Photos-0060_zps4988cd9f.jpg)
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on August 27, 2013, 03:34:42 PM
Heuuuu .....the carburetor has been rebuild ...silly question but ..... is the idle adjusted correctly ? [bang]
No idea, I would hope a shop with their own race team would adjust the idle, but who can say.
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on August 27, 2013, 03:34:42 PM
And if you want to rebuilt it NRP-carbs.co/shop model KY-0569N
If you have a BDST- mukini 38 mm here you go.... everything you need in one kit o-rings, jets...everyting!!!! I've rebuild mine this year best mood I've done so far [bow_down]
http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Photos-0055_zpsed018019.jpg (http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Photos-0055_zpsed018019.jpg)
http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Photos-0060_zps4988cd9f.jpg (http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Photos-0060_zps4988cd9f.jpg)
Thanks for the link, looks like a comprehensive kit, though shipping from the UK is a killer.
Here a photo that I've fond on the net a long time ago ..... just let the motor idle to normal temperature and adjust the screw whit the green arrow [popcorn] 1/4 of a turn clockwise sould resolve your problem.... well ...
most of it [popcorn]
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Screenshot_2013-08-27-20-56-20_zpsa9782743.png)
Kits from Powerbarn.com. US co.
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on August 27, 2013, 05:57:27 PM
Here a photo that I've fond on the net a long time ago ..... just let the motor idle to normal temperature and adjust the screw whit the green arrow [popcorn] 1/4 of a turn clockwise sould resolve your problem.... well ...
most of it [popcorn]
http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Screenshot_2013-08-27-20-56-20_zpsa9782743.png (http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Screenshot_2013-08-27-20-56-20_zpsa9782743.png)
Heh, I have that image saved in my Duc folder too. [thumbsup] Problem is, it won't idle now...
Here, I made a video that shows start-up, idling, etc (http://youtu.be/4hPHMaBHS3A) that will hopefully help.
Quote from: Javamoose on August 27, 2013, 07:31:31 PM
Heh, I have that image saved in my Duc folder too. [thumbsup] Problem is, it won't idle now...
Here, I made a video that shows start-up, idling, etc (http://youtu.be/4hPHMaBHS3A) that will hopefully help.
Do you have the link of the video ? [popcorn]
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on August 28, 2013, 03:34:18 PM
Do you have the link of the video ? [popcorn]
Mouse over his post...he has a hot link. ;)
Ok, so, I ended up taking it to the only Ducati shop in town (Tucson, AZ) and another $500 later, the bike was running well. They pulled the carbs off, said it didn't appear that the other shop had opened the carbs since the rubber fell was trashed when they opened them and there was still gunk/varnish in the carbs. They tore them down completely, ultrasonic cleaned everything, wire cleaned all the needles and inspected everything. They're saying it's stock needles/jets and that they are not worn. They tuned, synch'd, and even checked levels with an exhaust gas analyzer - everything was bang on.
So, it's been a month, was riding it a fair amount until constant clutch issues popped up, turns out my MC was going. I ordered a new one, put it in, bled the system - all is well. Went to go on a ride just now and it's back to not wanting to idle. It'll start with the choke, when the idle speeds up, if I cut the choke it'll lope along for a few second and die. If, before it dies, I touch the throttle at all, it'll die. It'll stay idling if I just crack the choke.
Just got off the phone with the Ducati shop and I was told that it's normal for these bikes (funny, when I first got it, it wouldn't do this) as they are cold-blooded. He said to let it idle until there is heat in the carbs. I repeated that it'll only stay idling with the choke cracked, and he said not to idle it with the choke on as it'll foul the plugs (no shit). I asked how I am supposed to warm it up, if it won't idle, his response was that "It's not hard, why don't you come down sometime and I'll give you a lesson" >:(
I'm out of money to spend on this bike. I just sunk $1,400 into it and it still isn't running. Did I just get a total POS or something?
You might have other problems. How is the fuel filter? What is the condition of the fuel in the tank? Is the tank rusty? That's just for starters. The shop is correct that your bike is cold blooded with stock jetting and idle mixture adjustment, but I believe it is still pretty warm down where you are. 1/4 to 1/2 choke to start and for a few seconds, no choke for another few and you should be good to go.
Sounds like the slow jets are plugged.
The holes are quite small, doesn't take much swarf to plug one.
Quote from: howie on October 26, 2013, 08:31:27 PM
You might have other problems. How is the fuel filter? What is the condition of the fuel in the tank? Is the tank rusty? That's just for starters. The shop is correct that your bike is cold blooded with stock jetting and idle mixture adjustment, but I believe it is still pretty warm down where you are. 1/4 to 1/2 choke to start and for a few seconds, no choke for another few and you should be good to go.
Fuel filter and all lines are brand new, no kinks in the lines. No rust in the tank, new epoxy liner done about 2 years ago (and it appears to be holding up fine), it's had 5-6 tanks of fuel run through it since I got it back on the road (it did have a ton of water in the fuel when I dropped it off at the first shop). Yeah, it was 85*F when I tried to get it running this afternoon. Plugs are new NGKs that I installed when I got it back from the first shop.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 26, 2013, 09:07:11 PM
Sounds like the slow jets are plugged.
The holes are quite small, doesn't take much swarf to plug one.
Well, the carbs were just apart and everything was cleaned and inspected, but I guess it's a possibility. What are the slow jets on these carbs?
I'm suspicious it started running like crap again when you solved your clutch issues.
Cold or not, I start with about 1/4 choke then ease it back till I get to around 1100 rpm's. Otherwise it'll run on one cyl for second and die. I ride it for about 10 minutes like this if I have to stop soon, otherwise I turn the choke off as I'm rolling. However regardless of choke position the rpm's always get higher if I hit the throttle.
Stage 2 jet kit, stock everything else (in the carb), nearing 25k.
Quote from: MongoReturns on October 28, 2013, 08:52:52 PM
I'm suspicious it started running like crap again when you solved your clutch issues.
Cold or not, I start with about 1/4 choke then ease it back till I get to around 1100 rpm's. Otherwise it'll run on one cyl for second and die. I ride it for about 10 minutes like this if I have to stop soon, otherwise I turn the choke off as I'm rolling. However regardless of choke position the rpm's always get higher if I hit the throttle.
Stage 2 jet kit, stock everything else (in the carb), nearing 25k.
It sounds like a thumper when it's idling, before it dies. But, steady pulses coming out of both exhausts, I checked. As I type this, I just realized that there is a cross pipe in there...so, yeah, I'm an idiot.
It'll start and idle fine with 1/4-1/2 choke, for a few seconds, until the RPMs surge - then I can drop it back to just a touch of choke (1/8 maybe?) and it will stay idling. But, if I kill the choke, it dies. Back before it sat, before all the trouble, I used to start it with choke until the RPMs surge, then cut the choke and it would idle all by itself just fine. I would smoke a pre-ride cig (so, about 3 minutes) then ride off. You would think it would work this well after pouring all this money into getting everything changed, refreshed and cleaned. [bang]
Now is a good time to take a look at the plugs again to see if they say anything.
Just listened to your vid, yep thumping on one cyl for a bit - mine does this too until it's very warmed up. I know I'm not supposed to ride with the choke on, but if I don't it barely idles and hitting the gas results in sneezes out of the airbox. I can tell it's time to turn it off when it starts missing when I accelerate. Speaking of, have you checked your air filter lately?
I've always figured (I've rode the thing for a couple years with the above problem) it's emulsion tubes, slow jets, or whatnot but it doesn't really bother me.
Any carb guys think the mix screws should be messed with? I haven't adjusted mine in a couple years. Yours might still have the metal plugs covering the actual screws. Also maybe float level.
And something easy I forgot to mention - couple years ago I was having some starting problems, and tried to find a can of starter fluid - is that stuff not sold anymore? Anyway a car shop down the street gave me a can of Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner, the pro will-kill-you crap. Hosed that into the carb intakes, let sit for a bit, started right up and has been fine since.
Did you try turning up the idle a little? It's hinted at but you haven't specifically said yes or no trying.
Quote from: chris on October 29, 2013, 02:27:28 PM
Did you try turning up the idle a little? It's hinted at but you haven't specifically said yes or no trying.
No, actually, I haven't...could that be all it is, the idle set too low after the shops rebuilt the carbs?
I'm assuming the whole airbox needs to be removed to get at the idle set screw?
Yes, it could be that's all you need... and upping the idle is my first response to a Ducati stalling at idle. There is a reasonable amount of latitude here. Once the idle is above 1200 rpm, it will "feel" too fast. Go by what feels ok.
No, using long phillips screwdriver, look at the picture posted above and you can adjust it without removing airbox. I've done it. You probably need to turn the front wheel to the side to get a straight shot to the correct screw.
Long Phillips head, small LED flashlight and watch out for the hot front exhaust pipe! I drop the oil cooler out of the way and lay down beside the bike looking up under the airbox. It's the bigger, closer screw iirc. That pipe is so close to the head it will quickly burn your clothes (or skin).
IMO, as per koko's suggestion, dropping the oil cooler is a must, as is a long screwdriver. The one I use is about 2 feet long. Also, the screw is much easier to see if the bike is up on a lift. Do bring a copy the photo ducatigirl100's reply on page 2 of this thread.
Ok, I'll give this a go this weekend and see what the response it. Any idea how much I should turn it? Am I supposed to do this while it is running (which means I would need to bypass the side stand safety switch)?
You could do it by trial and error, but better and easier running. Bypass the sidestand switch.
If you disconnect lines at the float chambers,
and you turn the starter a few secs, does the fuel flow freely then?
Well, three full turns clockwise (in 1 turn steps) and it idles way faster with the choke on, a tad faster with the choke off...but still won't idle without any choke for more than a few seconds with out dying. Also, seems like even more partial throttle hesitation.
Quote from: greenmonster on October 31, 2013, 05:09:55 PM
If you disconnect lines at the float chambers,
and you turn the starter a few secs, does the fuel flow freely then?
Well, my assumption is that the fuel is flowing freely, since it'll run at higher RPMs and it was running ok for a month or two. Would a failing fuel pump cause idle issues, but not higher RPS issues?
This probably.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 26, 2013, 09:07:11 PM
Sounds like the slow jets are plugged.
The holes are quite small, doesn't take much swarf to plug one.
Quote from: howie on November 03, 2013, 08:31:50 PM
This probably.
*sigh* Well, that's what I'm afraid of...ridiculous after paying two shops a ton of money and have the carbs rebuilt, and specifically asking them to check the jets, that it's likely this. So, if I replace the slow jets myself, do I have to re-sync the carbs and everything again?
They just need to be cleaned. Yes, you should adjust after. Sounds like the first shop didn't do the work well enough. Second shop? Dunno, but dirt in the system can foul the carbs again since there is some yuck always left in the system. It might also be worth a trip back to the shop so they can see what is going on and you are doing things right
Quote from: howie on November 03, 2013, 09:20:37 PM
They just need to be cleaned. Yes, you should adjust after. Sounds like the first shop didn't do the work well enough. Second shop? Dunno, but dirt in the system can foul the carbs again since there is some yuck always left in the system. It might also be worth a trip back to the shop so they can see what is going on and you are doing things right
That makes sense, unfortunately I had called the second shop to ask if they knew what this might be, and the owner/manager/head-tech (all one guy) told me that all Ducs act like this and that I wasn't warming it up properly and that "I should come down sometime so he can give me a lesson on how to start my bike", dripping with sarcasm and arrogance. This is the only Ducati shop located within 100 miles. Add in the fact that I'm out of money to spend on the bike and it costs me $60 to get my bike back to them, and then whatever they will charge to do the work, and I don't know what I'm going to do. [bang] The worst part is, I'm well over $1,500 into this bike in work in the past four months just to get it running and back on the road, I only paid $2,800 for it - and would be lucky to get $2k for it if I sold it.
Out of curiosity, why do the carbs need to be re-synched/tuned after cleaning the idle jets?
They might not need adjusting, but it should still be checked.
Quote from: howie on November 03, 2013, 09:35:37 PM
They might not need adjusting, but it should still be checked.
Ok. So, if I were to do it myself, would it be the 132.4.003.1D Idling Jet, not the 132.4.006.1A Starter Jet, correct? DucatiOmaha lists it as a $15 part...which is not bad.
Edit: Looking at the fiche a bit more, I would need one per carb, right? Looks like the carb needs to be pulled apart to change the idle jet as well?
imho:
read this:
http://www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/prodd08.html (http://www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/prodd08.html)
Buy this (links are to my business, but can be bought anywhere):
http://ca-cycleworks.com/carburetor-wire-cleaner (http://ca-cycleworks.com/carburetor-wire-cleaner)
... and maybe this too:
http://ca-cycleworks.com/ha013290 (http://ca-cycleworks.com/ha013290)
You don't need to take too many parts off... airbox, then loosen carbs from the manifolds. Put lots of rags down, then you can take float bowls off right there (leaving hoses and cables attached) then get out the jet that looks like this:
(http://thecrankshopvt.com/images/pilot%20jets.JPG)
Make sure the intake ports are blocked off with rags/towels. Also maybe get a cardbard box that a case of soda or water comes in then rest the carbs on top of that. The purpose of rags and cardboard box is to help prevent tiny metal parts from inside carburetors falling onto or into the engine.
Look through the jet at a light. You need to see a circular dot through it from end to end. If it only is a dim glow, it is clogged. If you can't see through it, it's clogged. This is the single hardest thing to get right in a carb clean or rebuild and unless the jets come out and a wire goes through, will not unclog via other methods.
Then you poke the skinniest wire from the wire cleaner kit through it a few time to ensure that you can see light through it. You'll probably also see a small column of dirt on the tip of the wire.
Here's a good image I found on Google Images (not perfectly the same as Ducati Mikunis, but close):
(http://www.fzrarchives.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_bowlrevised.JPG)
The pilot jet is up in that well.
Very interesting.
I just used the that wire cleaner on my slow fuel jets a few days ago and I didn't realise how clogged they were. The varnish was slowly 'jetting down" the slow fuel jets. The ID was shrinking over time and leaning out the mixture to 1/4 throttle. After using the wire cleaners I had richer plug colors. I was able to go back a size with clean jets. I really underestimated the effect of the varnish. I use local premium fuels that are quite waxy with extra detergents designed for high pressure injectors, not carbs at 3 psi that many of us run. Should be an item for periodic maintenance. A fuels engineer warned me about this a few years ago. He said the very detergents that clean injectors at 40-50 psi clag jets at 3 psi. He wasn't wrong.
Something to think about.
Quote from: chris on November 04, 2013, 01:05:01 AM
imho:
read this:
http://www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/prodd08.html (http://www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/prodd08.html)
Buy this (links are to my business, but can be bought anywhere):
http://ca-cycleworks.com/carburetor-wire-cleaner (http://ca-cycleworks.com/carburetor-wire-cleaner)
... and maybe this too:
http://ca-cycleworks.com/ha013290 (http://ca-cycleworks.com/ha013290)
You don't need to take too many parts off... airbox, then loosen carbs from the manifolds. Put lots of rags down, then you can take float bowls off right there (leaving hoses and cables attached) then get out the jet that looks like this:
(http://thecrankshopvt.com/images/pilot%20jets.JPG)
Make sure the intake ports are blocked off with rags/towels. Also maybe get a cardbard box that a case of soda or water comes in then rest the carbs on top of that. The purpose of rags and cardboard box is to help prevent tiny metal parts from inside carburetors falling onto or into the engine.
Look through the jet at a light. You need to see a circular dot through it from end to end. If it only is a dim glow, it is clogged. If you can't see through it, it's clogged. This is the single hardest thing to get right in a carb clean or rebuild and unless the jets come out and a wire goes through, will not unclog via other methods.
Then you poke the skinniest wire from the wire cleaner kit through it a few time to ensure that you can see light through it. You'll probably also see a small column of dirt on the tip of the wire.
Here's a good image I found on Google Images (not perfectly the same as Ducati Mikunis, but close):
http://www.fzrarchives.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_bowlrevised.JPG (http://www.fzrarchives.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_bowlrevised.JPG)
The pilot jet is up in that well.
Thanks for taking the time to write that out, seems pretty straight forward. Another question, the owner/tech at the Ducati shop out here said that the factory needles/emulsion tubes/things don't wear (only aftermarket ones) and that even with 19K miles on my bike, they are fine (said they checked them).
I'm still torn between doing this myself, or taking back to the Duc shop that charged me $500 to do it (and resisting the urge to throw it through their window) - and insisting they make it right for no extra money.
The brass needle jet / emulsion tubes do wear with all stock parts; should be lots of talk about it on here. I would agree with it is probable they have wear at 19k miles, but do not have a feeling for how much. People that actually work on a lot of Ducks will have a better idea here. And the needle jet / emulsion tubes wear faster when a jet kit is installed.
The "Factory Pro" brand nickel plated needle jet / emulsion tubes do not wear.
Yes, needle jets do wear. Pilot jets generally don't. Inspect the needle jets with a magnifying glass. If they look oval, replace. If they have mileage on them since you are in there anyway, replace. Presently I have Factory Pro needle jets with Dynojet needles in mine. Longevity? Don't know yet.
So, gunk in the carbs, one slow jet clogged and the other partially clogged. Shop is saying that grit/sediment is getting past the filter, they suspect bit of the tank liner are flaking off. Which totally sucks, since I relined the tank with the KBS Coatings kit back in 2010. Now I'm worried to ride it because it'll likely just gunk up the carbs again. [bang]
Get a tiny inline filter and put it right there up against the carbs. We do similar for new FCR kits we sell and attach a fuel filter right there to the carbs for exactly this reason.
Do that, go ride, be happy.
Quote from: chris on November 12, 2013, 03:52:36 PM
Get a tiny inline filter and put it right there up against the carbs. We do similar for new FCR kits we sell and attach a fuel filter right there to the carbs for exactly this reason.
Recommendation on a filter? It has the normal inline fuel filter just after the tank...
Quote from: chris on November 12, 2013, 03:52:36 PM
Do that, go ride, be happy.
That's all I want to do! [Dolph]
Any kind at the auto store with 5/16" inlet and outlet. Here's one (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Fuel-Filter/_/N-8gd7g?itemIdentifier=246932_310405_2606_). They'll be on the wall by oil filters somewhere.
The smaller the better. Also buy 3 hose clamps and a little bit of 5/16" hose to go between filter and carbs.
Quote from: chris on November 12, 2013, 04:27:15 PM
Any kind at the auto store with 5/16" inlet and outlet. Here's one (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Fuel-Filter/_/N-8gd7g?itemIdentifier=246932_310405_2606_). They'll be on the wall by oil filters somewhere.
The smaller the better. Also buy 3 hose clamps and a little bit of 5/16" hose to go between filter and carbs.
So, since that looks pretty close to the other inline filter after the tank, which I'm assuming are all similar pore size...would it actually catch the stuff that is getting past the first filter?
What size are the orifices in the slow jets (I'm guessing they have the smallest, easiest to clog), because most fuel filters are around 10 micron (0.0004") pore size. I can't imagine slow jets have that small of an orifice?
Edit: Sorry, realize it might seem like I'm doubting your advice, and I'm not...just trying to figure things out...
That one is a paper filter. There are motorcycle specific filters you can get that will trap very fine particles - I use them on my VMX bikes
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-GENUINE-VISU-FILTERS-1-4-6MM-MOTORCYCLE-FUEL-FILTERS-INLINE-HONDA-HARLEY-/251376583614?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-GENUINE-VISU-FILTERS-1-4-6MM-MOTORCYCLE-FUEL-FILTERS-INLINE-HONDA-HARLEY-/251376583614?_trksid=p2054897.l4275)
This one I have used with much success
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Visu-Inline-Carburetor-Fuel-Filter-for-Kawasaki-Dirt-Bikes-Motorcycle-/161139070987?_trksid=p2054897.l4276 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Visu-Inline-Carburetor-Fuel-Filter-for-Kawasaki-Dirt-Bikes-Motorcycle-/161139070987?_trksid=p2054897.l4276)
I use Visu filters (the first example above "flat type"). Made in the USA. Local Yamaha/Husky dirt bike shop has them.
I like being able to see into the filter to see how full it gets and what kind of crap accumulates.
When you twist the throttle from idle, what is the response like? Snappy or does it lag or hesitate before it actually throttles up?
JM
So, runs great after having the jets cleaned. Also, I found a permanent fix for it:
(http://i.imgur.com/0wqeuEx.jpg)
Sorry guys, I'll be back in the Ducati fold some day...but for now, it's Honda love. [beer]
Your moto soul will slowly wither away from lack of nourishment.
We pray you will realize that the appliance you are now riding is the culprit.
Quote from: Speeddog on November 16, 2013, 05:49:44 PM
Your moto soul will slowly wither away from lacl of nourishment.
We pray ypu will realize that the apploance you are now riding is the culprit.
Not to mention the accompanying testicular atrophy! ;D
Seriously, enjoy the change! [beer]
Quote from: Javamoose on November 16, 2013, 05:22:55 PM
So, runs great after having the jets cleaned. Also, I found a permanent fix for it:
(http://i.imgur.com/0wqeuEx.jpg)
Sorry guys, I'll be back in the Ducati fold some day...but for now, it's Honda love. [beer]
You know Honda is Japanese for "without soul", right?
Quote from: Speeddog on November 16, 2013, 05:49:44 PM
Your moto soul will slowly wither away from lack of nourishment.
We pray you will realize that the appliance you are now riding is the culprit.
Classic! Well done. [clap]
Quote from: Speeddog on November 16, 2013, 07:49:47 PM
Seriously, enjoy the change! [beer]
Thanks! I do look forward to being back on a Duc someday in the future, though. It'll probably be a Hyperstrada as a gift to myself when I graduate in five years. [thumbsup]
Quote from: koko64 on November 16, 2013, 05:54:52 PM
Not to mention the accompanying testicular atrophy! ;D
Nice. [laugh]
Quote from: suzyj on November 17, 2013, 02:57:24 AM
You know Honda is Japanese for "without soul", right?
No kidding, they do have less soul, for sure.
;D
I've raced 3 VFR400/NC30s. My bro had a VFR800 and three mates have VFR750s. Great bikes.
I had a VFR750 and loved it. Sold it and bought another Duc!