Is it normal for the rear motor mount bolts on my 98 M900 to not have a nut like the forward one does? The end of mine has a bit of rust on it so it kind of looks like it could have sheared off at one point, but I'm also not seeing any bolts on ebay that are designated for a M900 that are the same length and both have nuts. I do see a lot of other models whose bolts appear to be the same length and both have nuts.
If that's normal, does anyone know if there's a bolt from a different model that I could swap in that would be slightly longer?
If it's not normal, does anyone happen to have a replacement lying around?
On my 96 the left hand side has an allen head and the right side threads into the frame...no nut.
Alright, that's kind of what I figured.
Anyone know of a bolt from a different model that would work in my frame and have a little bit more thread pop through on the other side?
The motivation behind this is to attempt to build a center-lift paddock-style stand.
Also, does anyone happen to know what the thread dimensions are for that bolt?
AFAIK OEM bolt is a 10x1.25.
Frame sliders usually come with a longer stud, threaded both ends for the 'nuts' they use.
Caveat.... frame slider stud is not necessarily 10x1.25.
Any idea if just the longer stud can be purchased? I have zero experience with frame sliders.
Quote from: ChrisK on September 18, 2013, 09:33:20 PM
Any idea if just the longer stud can be purchased? I have zero experience with frame sliders.
I have bought a lot of hardware from http://mdmetric.com (http://mdmetric.com).
There are other sources on the interweb but I find their reference material and design standards very educational and useful. Case in point, read the stud standards and you will see that they are measured differently than SAE, in addition to the obvious inches vs Mm difference. When in doubt, I give them a call and they have always been responsive even though my orders are relatively small.
I'm still stuck on this and need some help.
There aren't enough threads sticking through on the right side to make this work with the current bolt I have.
I haven't really been able to figure out the site posted above, I guess I should just call them. McMaster-Carr doesn't have a bolt long enough.
Does anyone know if a bolt from a different model would work? For example, M695 bolts have nuts on the other side of them. Does anyone else think this might mean they're a little bit longer than what I have? Anyone know if they're also M10x1.25?
I believe a 695 will have 12mm bolts.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 09, 2013, 03:44:09 AM
I believe a 695 will have 12mm bolts.
Dang, I think you're right.
Does anyone have one that they can measure the length of? I have access to a lathe that I could use to turn the 12mm down to 10, then re-thread the end... IF the bolt is longer than my current one.
I'll probably get flamed for suggesting this, not that I give a rat's ass, but what about 10mm threaded rod?
Have you actually verified that the rear bolt is bad?
Early frames did have a threaded fitting in the frame.
That said, a 10mm front motor mount bolt off of of a '00 M900 is 251mm long, with ~20mm of thread.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 09, 2013, 01:20:11 PM
Have you actually verified that the rear bolt is bad?
Early frames did have a threaded fitting in the frame.
That said, a 10mm front motor mount bolt off of of a '00 M900 is 251mm long, with ~20mm of thread.
The bolt isn't bad...he wants to attach something on either side so he can use a lift apparatus of some sort so he needs more length.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 09, 2013, 01:45:27 PM
The bolt isn't bad...he wants to attach something on either side so he can use a lift apparatus of some sort so he needs more length.
Ah, OK.
Nichols motor mount bolts might be long enough.
And they'd be likely to tell you how long they are if you ask 'em.
Yeah I'm trying to build a center-lift stand based of the motomfg or bursig lifts. I'm building it on the right side rather than the left like there's. So all I need is a bolt just like I have, plus about a half inch of extra thread.
I agree, DP, threaded rid could technically work, but it's my last resort. Also, usually the term Nichols is associated with pricey, in my head. If like to keep costs down as much as possible.
Lol, ya. This isn't the solution I'm looking for: http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html (http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html)
It might be a long shot, but I would contact the folks at T-Rex Racing (http://www.t-rex-racing.com/).
I have a 2000 M900ie with 10mm motor mount bolts. I bought a set of frame sliders from T-Rex racing for my Monster. This came with a replacement motor mount bolt with threaded ends on both sides to mount the frame sliders on. The bolt was longer than the one I removed. They might sell you one without the kit. Would this help or am I not understanding what you're after? The frame slider kit was around $60, much cheaper than other options. Good luck with the project!
That's a good tip, I'll contact them, thanks!
I have a set of T-Rex paddock stands and have some experience with them insofar as quality of materials go. The rear, SSSA stand bent a few degrees on first use. If I have to leave a bike on it for more than an hour, I supplement it with jack stands.
On my original order, the supplied pin was too large and was replaced by them. I was told not to return the o'size pin, so decided to turn it down for use. I noticed what I though was merely a surface flaw on it and proceeded to turn it down. As it was being turned, the flaw opened up and contained a chalky substance. Then it proceeded to get smaller as the diameter went down. It was still visible when I reached the final diameter. It was relegated to use as a pin press as I had no confidence that there was not any more occlusions/discontinuities in it.
Bottom line, my experience with T'Rex leads me to not want to do any more business with them.
Have you directly called any of the fastener suppliers (not Fastenal!) and told them what you need?
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u76/oldndumb/TrexFrntStndPin002.jpg)[/URL][/img]
No, I haven't called, and I probably should.
Just in case anyone cares..... ;D
I purchased a bolt on ebay for a 05 M620. I decided that since these bolts had nuts on the other end of them, they just HAD to be longer than the M900 OEM bolt. I turned out to be right, they're about 1/2 inch longer, which is perfect for my project. The bolt is 12mm diameter, as expected, and I will be having my buddy turn it down to 10 in his lathe.
Why not try and adapt the bike to the bigger bolt? Pull existing bolt out, lift up the frame, see if 12mm bolt slides through engine. Resize the holes in the frame with a uni-bit to 12mm.
The thing about the cases to get that working is Ducati didn't really care how sloppy the cases were before the 12mm bolts and I've had to ream the cases for the Nichols 10mm bolts in the past. Drilling / reaming to 12mm isn't a problem unless there's a LOT of material to remove.
Don't use allthread while actually riding the bike. It will break and then it'll split the top shell of the motor mount off the engine case. A lot of STs actually break motor mount bolts (and then their cases). When I talk to customers, I tell them my opinion is Nichols bolts is the 1st thing I'd do for my own bike if/when I bought an ST.
I'd suggest (or what I'd do if I were trying this) is call up Speedymoto, tell them you'd like one of their frame slider bolts and nuts to be a rear motor mount with extra threads.
:) Chris
The reason I wanted to do it this way is because I'd rather mess up a $12 bolt than mess up the frame. I have a friend who was a machinist for 30 years with a lathe in his garage, living literally 4 minutes from my house. He'll make quick work of it.
Just as a reminder... please measure twice and cut once, and don't trust anyone else's measurements.
Earlier in this thread someone said they thought the threads were M10x1.25 and so I took it as fact instead of checking it for myself. That's my fault. The threads were actually M10x1.5. So I/we had to start over. Oh well, we got it done.
[shot]