So, after all the service work to get my 2000 M750 back on the road after sitting for two years (which included a shop flushing/filling the clutch system) - I was having a problem where I would be out riding, be coming to a stop with the clutch lever pulled in, but the clutch would not disengage - causing me to stall. I could pump the lever to get pressure back in the system to get going again, but after two weeks of riding it was happening more often. So, all signs pointed to air in the system, and today I tried to bleed it.
After about an hour of bleeding, I pulled the lever in and her a squish/pop and had fluid rushing out from around the pin (at the lever, thankfully none got on my tank). So, I'm guessing I'm gonna need a new master cylinder, and from what I can tell this is the one for me, correct? (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productID=10.4670.14)
My only other concern, I have aftermarket levers, is it possible to tear/damage the master by having the little set-screw that actuates the pin set incorrectly? With the stock lever and the aftermarket lever, the clutch lever pulled in all the way until it hit my grip/handlebar. Is that normal, because my front brake lever doesn't do that, or was that a sign that my master was on the way out?
Quote from: Javamoose on October 12, 2013, 06:51:29 PM
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After about an hour of bleeding, I pulled the lever in and her a squish/pop and had fluid rushing out from around the pin (at the lever, thankfully none got on my tank). So, I'm guessing I'm gonna need a new master cylinder, and from what I can tell this is the one for me, correct? (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productID=10.4670.14)
Yes it its; if you have the stalk mirrors, then it just switch the bracket
Quote
My only other concern, I have aftermarket levers, is it possible to tear/damage the master by having the little set-screw that actuates the pin set incorrectly? With the stock lever and the aftermarket lever, the clutch lever pulled in all the way until it hit my grip/handlebar. Is that normal, because my front brake lever doesn't do that, or was that a sign that my master was on the way out?
first if you do install the AM lever, set it to be as far away as possible from the bar; once you get pressure, start bringing it to your 'user' position step by step, you might/will have to adjust that screw as you bring the lever to your 'user' position, NOT before.
Other posts have dealt with this as have I; ended up re-installing the OEM lever to measure the adjusting screw and then re-installed the adjustable, with the set screw at its most outward position, and followed the procedure I described and it work, now that master with OEM lever is somewhere in Ohio . . . ;D
Your brake lever should not touch the grip, your clutch lever should. The little set screw is to adjust free play. Wrong adjustment will not hurt the masters, but, if too little can cause brake lock up and clutch slippage. Too much free play can cause excessive lever travel. You want 1-1.5mm. free play.
Ok, that's what I had seen, and I had about 2mm freeplay. I'm guessing that there must have been air getting into the system from the master for a while then, and it just decided to totally fail while bleeding?
Probably, or it might have just been it's time. Either way you needed to rebuild or replace it to solve your problem.
Yeah, I ordered the part from yoyodyneti today. Anything to watch out for when installing?
Quote from: Javamoose on October 13, 2013, 03:06:31 PM
Yeah, I ordered the part from yoyodyneti today. Anything to watch out for when installing?
Just, fill it up with fluid and open the clutch bleeder and let it fill itself by gravity. Then start the normal bleed procedure
Hey JM,
Good to see you're back around. Still in Salt Lake?
Quote from: Thermite on October 18, 2013, 01:02:40 AM
Hey JM,
Good to see you're back around. Still in Salt Lake?
Nope, out in Tucson AZ for a while! [thumbsup]
Install and bleeding went ok. Well, except for me snapping off the bleeder valve like an idiot. That was a $20 mistake.