Ducati Monster Forum

Hi Ppl,

So my new to me MY10 monster 696 has not been without its issues. After having done a belt job and posting the guide here - it decided it wanted to leak oil all over my rear tire after hard runs.

after tearing most of the bike apart and replacing all o-rings with updated (green) parts and resealing the left and right cover with threebond 1215 all seemed well on a shake down ride...

THEN...

DUN DUN DUN!!

on a hot 38C day the crappy oem regulator cracked the sads - overcharging then not charging the battery. I must say this was quite dangerous...

SYMPTOMS:

I was JRA, and then i notice a drop in power, then dreaded engine light, then stall. Happened just once while i was meeting a mate - decided it fired right up again should be good. Nup - several episodes of the above occurred.. with much frustration and traffic behind me i managed to limp it home. When i did get home it failed to start.

batt showed surface charge of 12.7v but with the key and instrument panel on, only showing 10v. Cycling thru the instrument pod showed error HI BATT - looking up the manual shows this only comes on when the batt shows >16v. Not good.

after removing the battery and smart charging it, it's now operating normally and fires up the bike fine - the rectifier diode test returned normal, but i'm not completely happy with the reg. it heats up quickly (kinda normal) but even revving to 3k rpm, the dash and multimeter shows less than 14v, dropping to 13.7v and isn't terribly consistent, never exceeds 14v. manual states it ought be 14.5v +/- 0.5v @ 3k rpm

overall, i'm pretty sure it's the reg once it gets hot - the battery is not capable of showing over 16v, unless the reg is on the blink, and it all adds up as it was a rather hot day.

I decided to do the job properly and recently ordered in a shindengen MOSFET type rectifier/regulator. This ought eliminate the run-away thermal issues of the stock shunt SCR type reg, and has proven to be a reliable unit. After the issue I had, i'm not prepared to go through that again marooned on country roads (thanks to all those who stopped for me! including another duke rider on a sport classic)

So after scoping the upgrade threads and seeing that the triumph link lead ought be a plug and play upgrade with this particular MOSFET, it all seems all rather too easy. It appears all i will have to do is make an appropriate bracket, and the whole thing ought be plug and play and importantly easily returned to stock with no wiring modifications.

Details (guide) to follow when the unit comes in... So far no one has made a guide for this for modern Monsters and there are a few questions that I would like answered (by myself).

Anyway, it seems from all the threads - that this is common. I can only suggest to my fellow riders on the stock rec/reg in hot climates to seriously consider the upgrade BEFORE you break down and it's a problem.

until then   [Dolph]

links to excellent guides showing you how to test the R/R and stator:
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/77-sport-classic/122863-regulator-rectifier-testing.html (http://www.ducati.ms/forums/77-sport-classic/122863-regulator-rectifier-testing.html)

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html (http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html)

Yep. Mosfet is mos def.

I swapped my rectifier/regulator for a Shindengen FH-020.

You really don't want to see my howto though, as it was part of rebuilding the loom and relocating most of the electrics up under the tank. Probably a little more than strictly required.

Buy it with the proper connectors, fab up a mount, and use the proper crimp tool to install, and all will be rosy. Like really, really good. No more hot arse.

Ignore her advice or you will regret it. Not much tolerance for error in this system.

ta! great link... i will def look up that new series mosfet when it is freely available and swap it out - looks like it uses the same connectors across the shindengen line which is handy...
lol, i take it it's a different mounting location? late monsters have it in the front cowl under the airbox - which is why i was so disappointed it was overheating as it was getting a lot of clean air (yep bleeped at me in the rolling twisties)


ahh, i take it you mean 'ignore her advice AND you will regret it...

at this stage i'm proceeding with the triumph link lead - it looks like it will work. I'm not afraid of wiring things up - i'm quite proficient in that area, but i'd rather not touch the stock harness at all - the advantage of the triumph lead is that it is possible to return to complete stock inside 20min (for resale etc - bike is completely stock right now but for aftermarket reservoir covers and the stock eaten away metal ones are getting repainted altho they do look awesome in bare alu)...

otherwise, totally agree it would be better to totally rewire the stator, and route the r/r to batt using beefier wires and connectors (and in the future upgrade to series to take the load off the stator, which i understand can still go on the modern monsters...)

the purpose of my guide is reallly to confirm FH-020AA + triumph link lead, positively does work on the modern monsters, whilst retaining all functions, and ease of returning to stock (still being able to read voltage on the dash etc). basically a simple no modification (apart from bracket) method for any novice to do the upgrade...

b/c i really do think the stock r/r is positively dangerous.  :-X

Doh! Yes, that is what I meant to say.  [bang]
Glad you caught that because it would have been a pretty stupid statement for me to make otherwise.

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but just a quick note to confirm this all just links up!!  [beer]

after some testing on long (and hot rides) the verdict is positive.

had to end up using zip ties to mount the new reg where the oil cooler would have been on the 696, after failing to properly mount it up in the stock location... no matter - more cool air this way!  [thumbsup]

the new mosfet unit is brilliant. 14.5v @ 3,000 as the manual says it ought to be - doesn't miss a beat in hot weather and returns the battery with a stronger charge at the end of a long ride than when it started (off tender!)

very happy. all in, cost me $154USD with the link lead from jack at roadstercycle and i'm very happy. Jack is a legend and very easy to work with.

highly recommended over the stock reg. For 696 owners without the oil cooler, mounting is as easy as two zip ties and plug in the new unit and you are done.

no way i would go back to the stock SCR regulator for much the same price.

 [thumbsup]