Hi I have an M1100 whilst doing some routine maintenance I decided to check the cam timing. I was very surprised to find it was out a lot. I used the dead stop method and have checked it several times and each time I get TDC which is different to the factory, but always the same value. After finding "True TDC" I checked where the Factory Crank mark came up. It was 7 Degrees BTDC.
Being a Noob when it comes to Ducati;
Is this normal?
How would this affect ignition timing?
As the bike has adjustable cam wheels my intention was to time to factory specs and input would be much appreciated.
Hey Yogi, I did mine a couple years ago and found mine slightly out of spec. I believe I used bikeboy.org specs. They have a section on cam timing that has real good info. give it a read. I have notes and such out in my shop I could go get if you wanted me to.
Scott
Hi scooterd145
I was beginning to think I was the only one who had encountered this. I have read the Bikeboy articles and I will be using them as a guide. Thanks for the offer to help out.
What I am concerned about is ignition timing. If I adjust the valve timing (including the crank) to real TDC then the ignition timing is still set to fire @ the factory setting which is based on the crank being @7BTDC + whatever its meant to fire at. Or maybe I'm wrong and it makes no difference :-\ Sure 7degrees looks huge on a degree wheel but on the crank its like 1-2mm off the OEM mark.
what are you using as your factory crank mark?
Hi Brad,
I'm taking the punch mark on the crank pulley as being the Factory TDC when it is aligned with the crankcase groove. Am I doing this wrong???
you mean the dot on the timing shaft and the groove in the primary drive cover? that's not accurate, it's an indication for belt fitment.
Thanks Brad for clearing that up. I spoke with a Ducati tech yesterday and he also said they do not use the dots on the pulleys either. They use three locking tools to set everything up. I have the cam locking tools but not the crank locking tool.
Do you think it would be OK to use "my" TDC on the degree wheel to set the valve timing?
Cam timing was out, and for info guys the dots on the pulleys have no relation to anything. When I checked it, I had;
Horizontal cylinder IO @ 16 BTDC and IC @ 64 ABDC IO = Inlet Opening, IC = Inlet Closing 1mm lift.
Vertical Cylinder IO @ 12 BTDC and IC @ 68 ABDC
This was how it came from the factory. Now its set to 15 IO and 65 IC which is what is should have been.
How much difference does that make?
about 3/8s of make the beast with two backs all I'd suspect, especially as it was one each side. 1 and 3 degrees really isn't too bad.
Quote from: brad black on January 25, 2014, 06:26:53 PM
about 3/8s of make the beast with two backs all I'd suspect, especially as it was one each side. 1 and 3 degrees really isn't too bad.
Would you have left them as they were?
On your page http://www.bikeboy.org/camtime2v.html (http://www.bikeboy.org/camtime2v.html) at the bottom you have the 1000DS cam timing spec and charts do you think this would be more or less the same for the 1100 Monster?
I see the DS makes Peak the high side of 7500 I have not seen an 1100 make peak above 7500 ...