I've got a 2012 Monster 796 with about 5k miles on it. I bought it new from a dealer and have had it less than a year. I've noticed the rear brake seems squishy. It still works, but it seems like I have to push the foot lever farther for it to engage completely (maybe 4-5 inches). I can't see the brake pad easily because of its location upside down at the bottom of the rotor. Any thoughts on what may be causing this and is their an easy fix? Brake reservoir is full. Thanks.
Sounds like air in the break line or caliper; on the DM s2r bikes the caliper is mounted upside down on the rear; making them difficult to bleed the air out of the caliper; if its the same configuration on your bike - the trick is - you need to remove the caliper from the mount; bleed with the nipple facing up so the air can escape; AND note be sure to have the pads and a spacer in place so you done push the caliper pucks out; hope that works for ya; let me know if that worked [Dolph]
if it's new under warranty, take it to the dealer and let them figure it out . . . on their dime not yours . . .
Quote from: Darkmonster620 on January 19, 2014, 09:41:40 AM
if it's new under warranty, take it to the dealer and let them figure it out . . . on their dime not yours . . .
Yep, as DuciD03 said, probably just air in the line, but it got there somehow. Bringing it in for warranty may be a PIA verses just bleeding it at home, but this way you have a paper trail if there are future problems. As stated,.
Quote from: Darkmonster620 on January 19, 2014, 09:41:40 AM
if it's new under warranty, take it to the dealer and let them figure it out . . . on their dime not yours . . .
1. Dealer fix - paperwork established
2. Happens again soon - dealer fix again - closer to a permanent fix (which is an upgraded master cylinder)
3. Happens a third time - get a new and better master cylinder
That's how easy life can be (on the internet)
[thumbsup]
Thanks. I plan to take it to the dealer next Saturday (weather permitting). Will report back!
Quote from: TACstrat on January 19, 2014, 06:11:43 PM
Thanks. I plan to take it to the dealer next Saturday (weather permitting). Will report back!
thanks Howie ;D he's more knowledgeable that me too so that's a great compliment-o
...ooop! lol... missed the part about being under warranty; ya they should fix for free; and there should not be any air getting in there unless the system has been opened ... or seals / parts should be replaced; there's only one more break left if the rears not working (of course the front being the primary break). Good luck at the dealership.
When I installed the rear sets I had to lengthen the line from the reservoir to the master. I spent a quart of brake fluid trying to bleed them down. Nothing but squish. Thanks to the forum or I would never have though to pull the caliper and flip it to bleed. I am not sure just how it would be possible to get air in the line without mucking with anything or allowing the reservoir to go nearly dry.
All good now, but I do keep an eye on the fluid level as I have the really tiny Rizoma reservoir with no windows.
Do you think it is possible to get air in the rear brake line if the bike was tipped over? I've never done any mechanical work on the bike and never even opened the brake reservoir. I can see right through the reservoir and know it is full. However, I did drop the bike on its left side about 6 months ago at a very low speed which put a very tiny scratch in the left mirror and the left bar end. Just curious if that could have been a factor (although I started sensing the brake was squishy several months after that happened).
Quote from: TACstrat on January 20, 2014, 05:33:10 PM
Do you think it is possible to get air in the rear brake line if the bike was tipped over? I've never done any mechanical work on the bike and never even opened the brake reservoir. I can see right through the reservoir and know it is full. However, I did drop the bike on its left side about 6 months ago at a very low speed which put a very tiny scratch in the left mirror and the left bar end. Just curious if that could have been a factor (although I started sensing the brake was squishy several months after that happened).
Not likely but possible. If the replenishing port was exposed to air and the lever was depressed yes. The results would also be immediate.
My dealer fixed the rear brake under warranty. Just needed to be bled and they put new brake fluid in it. I had them put on new tires and do a state inspection while I was there. Couldn't be happier because it'll be 70 degrees this weekend. Thanks for everyone's help!
Quote from: TACstrat on January 25, 2014, 11:41:51 AM
My dealer fixed the rear brake under warranty. Just needed to be bled and they put new brake fluid in it. I had them put on new tires and do a state inspection while I was there. Couldn't be happier because it'll be 70 degrees this weekend. Thanks for everyone's help!
Where did the air come from?
Not sure where the air came from, but it's been documented in case it happens again.
Quote from: TACstrat on January 25, 2014, 07:11:51 PM
Not sure where the air came from, but it's been documented in case it happens again.
[shot]
Quote from: Darkmonster620 on January 25, 2014, 06:59:17 PM
[popcorn]
[popcorn]
70 degrees!
[Dolph]
Is the rear brake supposed to work?
[cheeky]
I have a 2012 M1100 Evo that had some problems with squishy brakes. The dealer ended up replacing the rear master as it ended up being defective. Still not totally happy with the front, might have to take it back again.
Quote from: Greg on February 03, 2014, 04:26:03 PM
I have a 2012 M1100 Evo that had some problems with squishy brakes. The dealer ended up replacing the rear master as it ended up being defective. Still not totally happy with the front, might have to take it back again.
Front brake has become much worse, took it to the dealer just before the warranty expired and they are now going to replace the front master as well. I'm a bit surprised that both brake masters have failed on a 2 year old bike!
moisture in the fluid will cause squishyness too,, rear need a vacuum or suction bleed to get all the air and crud out