Hi everyone, I am new to the site and this is my first thread. It's appropriate because I was attempting my first monster (08 s2r1000) procedure and ran into a problem. With belts off, I rotated the crank...dumb move. Nothing was binding or anything like that but now I am wondering how to get my pulleys all back on track.
Is it true that if I align all the pulleys with their marks, and I can see the flywheel tick mark through the hole, that I can put my new belts on?
I assume I need to find TDC of compression stroke on horizontal cylinder for the pulleys to align, but can I find TDC without belts? My finger feels pressure while over the spark plug hole, but can I be sure of what the valves are doing if there is no belt?
Besides the horror of what might happen if I get it wrong, what's the best way for me to proceed?
Thanks so much and please be patient as I am new to all of this.
Best,
Dean
The pulley marks will only align in the proper place.
If the valves are closed/belts off then pressure from the horizontal cylinder will occur on both the compression and exhaust stroke, but since the pulleys only align on the compression stroke you're good.
When you tension the new belts make sure each cyl is at TDC as the closer assist spring will alter the reading.
So then I'm ok to assemble as long as all the pulleys line up in the end?
Align the marks carefully and assemble.
Rotate the motor by hand with a crank turning tool to double check for any binding before you fire it up.
Maybe I'm over thinking it, I'll put everything in place with belts on and go from there.
Quote from: dholbrook on January 27, 2014, 07:23:28 PM
Maybe I'm over thinking it, I'll put everything in place with belts on and go from there.
The results of doing it wrong are indeed a nightmare, but it really isn't rocket science.
You can do it.
Once you get them on do you have a method to tension them properly?
Yep as DP has said, just take your time and you should be fine. Turning the crank with the belts off is a hassle not the end of the world.
And FWIW the vertical cylinders pulley came off the mark as soon ans you took the belt off. With the marks lined up right, the cam is resting on the spring and will turn with the slightest provocation
Thanks for you help!! I was really thinking that hitting the start button would be like pushing the button for one of those implosion demolitions. Now I have greater confidence though, thanks to you all. I aligned all the pulleys while the tick was visible in the peek hole. It turns over without any noise except the rushing air out of the spark plug holes. I've downloaded a guitar tuner app and will see how well it works tonight. The belts from CA Cycle Works are recommended to 99 Hz. If I can't get solid readings, I'll slip a 5mm allen key through, but not enough for a 6, then recheck after it starts, warms, then cools.
Thanks again,
Dean
Quote from: dholbrook on January 28, 2014, 05:16:51 PM
Thanks for you help!! I was really thinking that hitting the start button would be like pushing the button for one of those implosion demolitions. Now I have greater confidence though, thanks to you all. I aligned all the pulleys while the tick was visible in the peek hole. It turns over without any noise except the rushing air out of the spark plug holes. I've downloaded a guitar tuner app and will see how well it works tonight. The belts from CA Cycle Works are recommended to 99 Hz. If I can't get solid readings, I'll slip a 5mm allen key through, but not enough for a 6, then recheck after it starts, warms, then cools.
Thanks again,
Dean
The Allen key method does not work on a 1000DS.
FWIW: The free "G-Strings" tuner app for Android works like a charm. Consistent, repeatable, frequency readings. Used it for the 620 and the 748 with no problems.
Quote from: ducpainter on January 28, 2014, 11:42:47 PM
The Allen key method does not work on a 1000DS.
Why not?
Quote from: SpikeC on January 29, 2014, 01:42:35 PM
Why not?
The idler/tensioner pulleys are in different locations than the older bikes which changes things.
Once tensioned you could check with an allen and figure out what size to use, but it's not a 5.
Thanks,I will get in there and check with the tuner app. When I changed the belts I checked them with the allen method before pulling the belts and the horizontal was a tight 5mm, the vert. a tight 4, so I did 5 on each. There were only 3k on them at that time.
Thanks for the advice, I had no idea the allen key wouldn't work for the 1000DS. I'll look for the specific G Strings app for the frequency.... searching "g string" out in the garage... work may get accomplished!
I have no experience with this company. Just offering it in case someone is interested. Or maybe someone could critique their instructions?
http://ducatitoolrental.com/Home_Page.html (http://ducatitoolrental.com/Home_Page.html)
I have rented that frequency meter (ducati tool rental) and it works good. I talked to the guy who makes that meter and the verticle cylinder on the DS motor, the wall is very close to the belt and there is some feedback that interferes with the reading. I've tried tuner programs with a computer and the verticle cylinder is almost impossible to get a consistent reading. I tried several mic's without success.
Quote from: ducpainter on January 29, 2014, 05:28:14 PM
The idler/tensioner pulleys are in different locations than the older bikes which changes things.
Once tensioned you could check with an allen and figure out what size to use, but it's not a 5.
Worked fine for me - maybe I was just lucky
Quote from: ducpainter on January 29, 2014, 05:28:14 PM
The idler/tensioner pulleys are in different locations than the older bikes which changes things.
Once tensioned you could check with an allen and figure out what size to use, but it's not a 5.
The Lt. Synder's manual states the same, you need a differnt size allen for the vertical.
I've used the allen method on my S2R1000. I believe I went one size looser on the vert... 4-5 or 5-6, something like that.