Ducati Monster Forum

Last year I got a '02 M620 with apx. 7000 mi. from a friend who couldn't keep it any longer, so it was given to me...as in free!  I spent some time and $ doing the normal stuff to the bike as it had been stored under a cover outside for many years and not ridden.  It got a new battery, belts, plugs, all fluids, filters, tires, brake pads....etc.  With this time and $ invested I was able to get the bike running well and rode it a few hundred miles before I had to put it away for the winter.  It had sat about a month hooked up to its battery tender when I went out to give it a monthly "start up" and running.  As the bike warmed up it was at idle for maybe 5-10 minutes as I dressed to ride when suddenly it cut off.  It cut off like a switch was thrown.  As in immediately from idling fine to OFF in a split second.  No sputtering or ill sounds, just shut down instantly.  When I went to key it back up I get nothing.  No fuel pump sound, no starter, no gauges...just total non response to being keyed to the on position.  If it is keyed to the "park" function I do get head and tail lights.  Now with spring right around the corner I am ready to get it back to life but don't know where to start.  My first thought was battery, so I borrowed a known good one from my buddy's M900 to no avail.  When I installed the "new" battery I did get the yellow blinking security LED to light on the bottom middle of the speedo cluster.  But again no fuel pump, starter, gauges.  

It is worth noting that this bike has done a similar thing to me a few other times.  Where when I keyed it up the guages would not  move or "start up" on the first try.  If I turned it off then on again the gauges would peg as expected and I could then start the bike.  On another instance I was having the same issue and I ended up being able to get it running by doing a push/bump start...  Lastly every so often when I pressed the starter button it would continue to run the starter without starting up, even after the button had been released. (and no thte button was not sticking) All this leads me to believe that I am suffering some kind of electrical issue.  I have checked all the fuses, battery, and many connectors have been cleaned with no success.

I am seeking any advice as to where you, or I, should start my diagnosis and treatment of this problem.  Are there common "known" issues or frequently problematic parts and areas that can cause this type issue?  Any help, feedback, or advice will be greatly appreciated.  I know this is kind of a real broad question but I'm hoping someone know what might be going on?

Thanks,
Kevin

UPDATE  3/20/14

The problem was as DMF member Thorn thought!  Million thanks!  Cheap $12 relays that contol the Ignition, and fuel pump located on the left side of my battery tray had gone bad.  Actually just the 1-Ignition (read....everything) relay had gone bad.  With this relay bad you will get no signs of life from your bike when keyed up.  No gauge sweep, no fuel pump hummmm, no lights, no starter....no nothing!!!!

I switched the positions of the 2 relays and suddenly got all ignition functions back, but no fuel pump hiss.  Change them back and there is nothing at all.  Ignition precedes all!  Nothing will work without the ignition relay first working...  IE--My ignition relay was bad, thereby disabling my fuel system.  The fuel relay, which was still OK, when switched to the ignition spot or "front" position gave me the clue.  Also the dead relay made a ratteley noise when shaken.

Then I found that you can buy these relays for about $12 at any auto parts store.  Napa, Autozone, etc....  check the sticky for "alternatives for expensive OEM Ducati parts"  in tech for part # cross references.  I found most of the car store relays cost about the same as the Duc dealer ones, but were much more readily available.  The issue is that the car store relays are mostly 5 plug, and the OEM are 4 plug....

Does this matter?  Apparently NO!  if you look at your harness/receptacle you'll see daylight right through the extra "middle plug" hole.  It is not connected to anything.  With the new NAPA AR 634 relays plugged in my bike started and ran better than I can ever remember, immediately!!!  All my "weird" symptoms are seemingly gone.

At the end of the day I'd recommend that any M series bike owner with almost any issues start with this cheap and readily available fix?  From what I've read the relays are very unreliable and I am now carrying a spare good one under my seat...as well as a bunch of other spare unreliable parts...

Thanks again everyone, kickstand up!!  First day of spring, 50 degrees, and I'm riding! [thumbsup]

Just a thought... Have you checked the immobilizer antenna? It is located under the ignition shroud. Sometimes a loose connection can cause similar symptoms.

Otherwise, you may want to check your relays. They're cheap and easy to replace.

The tail light is on the same fuse as the gauges.  If the wires have shorted somewhere, the fuse will blow and you will have no gauges.  No gauges means unhappy immobilizer.

Thanks for the advice and suggestion.  A question though...  I do have taillight/headlight when the bike is keyed to the "park" position and all the fuses definitely have continuity.  Does that change your line of thought or give you any other ideas?  Thanks

Thanks for the idea's.  Which of the relays would you start with based on symptoms, expense, and ease of replacement or known faults? 

I'd start with the fuel pump relay.

It does change my line of thought, but I have no other ideas at the moment.

Check the two relays on the left side of the battery as one if faulty will cut out the gauges. I had this happen on the freeway with a loose wire and the CHP kindly waited on the side of the road until I wiggled it on. If you get no lights at the gauges I believe it actually rules out an immobilizer issue.

Also that main fuse (I believe a 30 or 40A) should be checked.

Thorn,  I found at least 1 of these 2 relays to be faulty.  I reversed there positions and suddenly the ignition circuit came to life.  Reverse them back and I get back to having nothing.  Also when I shake the 1 faulty relay it sounds a little rattly, where the other does not.  I have another Question though...  I have been reading that NAPA relay AR634 is a suitable substitute, for my faulty V23073 Tyco relay.  But the OEM Tyco has 4 terminals, and the NAPA AR 634 has 5.  Many say the 5th terminal is "extra" and doesn't matter.  Anyone able to confirm this?  Again thanks DMF'rs for the tips!!

I used the NAPA substitute, and one original and I can't remember which is which, but I have one 4 terminal and one 5 terminal and it runs fine.

Also double check the wiring on the underside as mine was melted and the wire was fused to the plastic connector. That can also cause issues.