So starting to take everything apart, and it is not going well. Anyone ever have trouble getting the front calipers to fit over the front rotors when removing the front wheel? I have the front calipers loose from the fork legs but they won't fit off the rotors within the limits of the wheel well. It looks like I need another quarter inch, I just can't figure out what the hell. I'm not the first owner, so would aftermarket pads extend further towards the front axle than stock? Do I have to take the calipers apart? Or do I have to take the front rotors off the wheel to slip them out of the calipers?
Should mention: 2011 monster 796. First time taking the front wheel off since I've owned it, trying to swap to 848 forks. Off to lowes to figure out what I need to tap out these stripped front rotor star-head bolts.
Quote from: aftriathlete on May 10, 2014, 04:39:59 PM
So starting to take everything apart, and it is not going well. Anyone ever have trouble getting the front calipers to fit over the front rotors when removing the front wheel? I have the front calipers loose from the fork legs but they won't fit off the rotors within the limits of the wheel well. It looks like I need another quarter inch, I just can't figure out what the hell. I'm not the first owner, so would aftermarket pads extend further towards the front axle than stock? Do I have to take the calipers apart? Or do I have to take the front rotors off the wheel to slip them out of the calipers?
You just need to wiggle it a little, they do come off . . .
Man I am cranking on this thing nothing doing. Doesn't seem like there's anyway I can pry any harder without scratching the hell out of the wheel. And the front rotor doesn't give at all. But I take it that it's usually difficult to get them off?
Quote from: aftriathlete on May 10, 2014, 05:02:22 PM
Man I am cranking on this thing nothing doing. Doesn't seem like there's anyway I can pry any harder without scratching the hell out of the wheel. And the front rotor doesn't give at all. But I take it that it's usually difficult to get them off?
Not so hard, a bit tedious but they should come off
try taking the pads out . . remember to not pull the lever . . . I have a 1/4" piece of wood that I usually stick between the pads to simulate the rotor . . but, since you will be taking the pads out, try getting something about 3/4" to put in between the pads once you have taken the calipers off
Take the calipers off.
I wish I could man! Do you mean take the pads off?
Quote from: aftriathlete on May 10, 2014, 05:26:04 PM
I wish I could man! Do you mean take the pads off?
Remove the calipers from the fork legs and away from the rotors.
You may have to use the rotors to push the pads back to have clearance.
It was put together, so it has to come apart. ;D
So I wound up able to pry the calipers off the rotors -- it really seems like it's going to be be a PITA to get them back on there when I'm putting everything back together. I'm surprised my wheel didn't get scratched, honestly! Chalk it up to beginner's knowledge -- I really didn't expect the calipers to take that kind of prying to get off. But I guess it shouldn't be surprising -- they make everything to the tightest tolerances in an effort to save weight, so there's not gonna be extra room engineered in anywhere.
So now the next challenge is getting the rotors off so I can put the rotor spacers in. Got two of the bolts off on the right side but 3 are hanging tough. I hit them with PB Blaster, waited 10 min for it to soak in, and went at it with an impact driver. No luck yet. I watched some videos on youtube to make sure I was using the impact driver correctly, since I just bought it tonight, and it seems like I am doing it right. So my only recourse right now is to give the PB Blaster the rest of the night to soak in and try to hit it again tomorrow I guess.
In my head, I thought everything would come apart easily and this would be an easy swap. And then your cheap/soft steel Torx-head rotor bolts are frozen in place. I guess I should get used to the idea that nothing on a Ducati is easy.
There is sufficient clearance if the caliper pistons are fully retracted.
Quote from: howie on May 10, 2014, 07:39:34 PM
There is sufficient clearance if the caliper pistons are fully retracted.
So how do you get the caliper pistons to full retract?
Just push them back evenly into the bore. An old brake pad or equivalent and channel locks will do. You might want to protect the finish with a cloth. Do make sure there is room in the reservoir for returning fluid. Also, after the bike is together squeeze the brake lever a few times so the pistons return to proper position or you will be in for an unpleasant surprise.
Gotcha, I'll keep that all in mind for when I'm putting it all back together.
I just found the thread on front rotor bolt difficulties -- at least I know I'm not alone. I'll try the butane torch on it tomorrow along with the impact driver.
Sorry i am late to this one. Just take out the pads, no need to force back the pistons, the calipers will come off the rotor with no pads. I hate using the rotor to push back pistons any way. I always get nervous of bending a button. Plus, it is easier to reseat the pistons once the caliper is off and the wheel is out of the way.
To help with the rotor bolts, use a pin punch and a medium hammer.
Put the punch straight in the Torx hole, give it two or three sharp whacks with the hammer.
Torx seem easier to strip IMO, be careful. I just used the leverage of a breaker bar and it is easy with the wheel laying flat.
First time these things have probably ever been taken off the wheel. How much heat can I safely apply to these bolts? The guy at Lowe's said I need to heat the bolts until they're glowing, but I'm concerned about the wheel bearings.
No not that hot, I use a heat gun on 700 for about 2 min. I never used heat on those bolts.
I just use a hand impact driver and a 3lb hammer...no heat.
They come right out.
Maybe I'm just not using a big enough hammer with this impact driver, I'm using a little 13 oz light duty hammer. Maybe it's just not transferring enough energy through the impact driver. These bolts are frozen on!
Get a real hammer...
I use one of these... http://www.estwing.com/s_drilling_hammer.php (http://www.estwing.com/s_drilling_hammer.php)
Don't miss. ;)
Man I could write a beginner's manual for mistakes to avoid the first time you take your front end apart.
1) $19 is too cheap for an impact driver apparently. The one I got at Advance Auto Parts is loose and flimsy, and when you strike it some sort of metallic dust comes out of the inside of it. The handle is too soft as well, and after all the pounding I was doing on it today, the end of the handle is slightly flattened.
2) Use a large, heavy hammer with an impact driver. At least a 20 oz hammer. The 13 oz light duty I started with tends to skip around and, given how hard you have to swing it to get some energy out of it, you can imagine that can be a bit dangerous. Which leads to my next point...
3) Make sure the fold of skin between your thumb and your index finger doesn't wanted up to the striking surface of the impact driver. Ouch...
4) Don't touch a bolt on these bikes without hitting it with PB Blaster and a heat gun first.
5) For Torx bolts, save yourself the headache and start with a new, high-quality Torx bit. If you think your Torx bit is even remotely rounded, get a new one. These Torx bolt heads are SUPER EASY to strip out.
6) If you're hammering on your wheel, make sure you have a significant layer of padding underneath. The single layer of foam I had down under the wheel was not enough given how much hammering I had to do today, so I ate right through that foam layer down to the concrete below. My right side hub surface is nice and pockmarked now and in need of a wet sand.
I got the front rotor bolts off, and I only need to replace 4! The project continues!
Misery loves company, it is good to know i am not alone in this world of motorcycle madness.
Do the clutch and front brakes need to be bled down if you flip the coffin reservoirs upside down? The reservoirs weren't opened, but does flipping them over when you're removing handlebars and flipping them out of the way to get the top triple off let air into the lines?
Apparently this has become my Noob Project thread. This is the best forum I've ever been a part of as far as responsiveness and knowledge of the members though, so thanks to all.
It's possible you could get an air bubble, but most likely only if you depressed the levers.
Copy, no I haven't actuated the levers at all. I'll add clutch and front brake feel to the list of things to watch for when I get everything put back together. Next step today is getting the top triple machined out to 53!
Scott, i will use a little forsight here from what i recall.
I did same with reservoirs and as ducpainter said, just dont actuate and any bubbles will come right back up.
I used some plastic interior trim tools (plastic wedges) basically to help pry open the lower triple for insertion of the new forks. Your old ones will be fine to take out and shouldnt be hard. The new ones with the shim are definitely snug since it will have to take shape as well. It is not necessarily a two man ordeal but lots of slow twisting and sliding. Of course hou dont want to ding them all up as well.
I highly recommend a heavy dead blow or rubber mallet for removal and also replacing the top triple. While you are there, i went with the tapered steering head bearings. It was a nice touch and i am sure a few others may recommend them at this time. I think they are 50 bucks but well worth it. All ballz bearings are out of pennsyvania so they get here quick.
Good advice man. I got the stock forks out and the stock triple off; I imagine it will be a bear to get the new forks in with the shims. I thought about the tapered bearings also, but with all the tools I bought due to not having a significant set of tools before this project, I am maxing out the wife's approval meter already.
Speaking of bearings though, in spraying PB Blaster on the rotor bolts, I got some on the wheel hub seal. Am I safe or is this stuff gonna get in there and do something I won't be happy with? I'm assuming there are bearings and grease in there.
As far as I know, the PB won't have any breakdown effect on the grease or bearings. The bearings are sealed and the outer seal you hit is designed to keep out dust and dirt. I don't see any issues with it. Any residue will burn off quickly and only leave behind any dust collected.
aftriathlete, Good for you for recognizing that you were in slightly over your head but not too proud to ask the right questions. Much to be learned here from some very knowledgeable members. You also learned not to take motorcycle advice from a Lowes clerk. ;)
Re the impact driver, my experience with most of them is that they work much better if you initially disassemble them and clean all of the crap and cheap grease and liberally lubricate it with BelRay grease or similar. Being frugal, I can't speak to the name brand ones. ;D
While I'm waiting for my new rotor bolts to show up (OEM replacements for the 4 I stripped), I figure I should clean my rotors while I have them off anyways--how's isopropyl alcohol all over the discs and then wd-40 on the buttons with an isopropyl alcohol wipe at the end to get the wd-40 off the surface?
Likewise, I cleaned up the top triple with isopropyl alcohol last night and masking taped over all the bolts holes, so I'm going to attempt to prime and flat black paint that thing tonight with rustoleum enamel rattle can.
Brake cleaner directly to the buttons, to the rotor surface, brake cleaner + scotch brite pad, the brown one and then brake cleaner to clean off . . .
Here's a small tip. You can put some painters tape on your rim when you reinstall the calipers. I had to paint a few spots on the front rim, so I was worried about scratches during assembly. Worked great! Oh, and I have a Craftsman impact driver and 3 lb hammer. Works wonders. Good luck!
Stopped in my tracks today -- the Corse Dynamics 5 mm rotor spacers I ordered from Motowheels are 6-bolt and not 5-bolt. I've learned a lot more about my bike in this whole process, but when I bought the spacers I was convinced they were the right ones due to the description on their site of "5mm spacers to space 10mm offset brake rotors typically necessary for 1098 fork conversions."
Anyone know where I can find 5-bolt 5 mm rotor spacers? Doesn't look like Motowheels has them, and now I'm stuck.
worst case, return the spacers for credit....buy these off ebay (161283139175) and continue working. You need 5 bolt, 15 mm. these are 165 with free shipping off ebay. not bad, since I sold brand new off an 848 for 135 and just about all the others I went through were 190-225.
Just keep mocking up everything without the rotors on the wheel....
Other models that will fit 5 bolt, 15 are listed below
1200 multi
848 evo obviously
M1100S (S model only)
Diavels
Quote from: zippsub9 on May 17, 2014, 01:41:26 PM
worst case, return the spacers for credit....buy these off ebay (161283139175) and continue working. You need 5 bolt, 15 mm. these are 165 with free shipping off ebay. not bad, since I sold brand new off an 848 for 135 and just about all the others I went through were 190-225.
Just keep mocking up everything without the rotors on the wheel....
Other models that will fit 5 bolt, 15 are listed below
1200 multi
848 evo obviously
M1100S (S model only)
Diavels
I just clicked buy on Ebay Item number 291067649643. $15 more than the ones you posted, but they actually show the thickness and the mileage. Hopefully that was a smart move, I was hoping to click purchase in time for them to possibly still get them shipped today. Though I'm not holding my breath on that.
take them to a machine shop with a rotor to have them do the holes with the correct spacing
For all that have been following this thread: amid this whole process I've decided that I don't want to track my Monster. I've always had an eye for the 999s, even when I had my 1198, and I've decided that I want to pick up a 999s to enjoy on the track and to just add to my collection. If any of you are interested in the 848 forks, the stock top triple bored out to 53 mm, the lower triple shims, and the 848 front axle to put SBK forks on your own bike, let me know. I'll be adding them to the For Sale section in the next couple days when I can get some good pictures amid my in-laws visiting.
Just thought I owed an update considering how much help everyone has provided. I'm keeping my Monster though, rest assured. When I get my new painted panels on I'll post pics.