I attached a USB socket, next to my instrument cluster, so I could power an iPhone (in a waterproof case) for use as a GPS.
(http://burnsmoto.com/img/usb-wp-sae-400.jpg)
(http://sconnor1.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Modifications/Lifeproof-iPhone-Mount/i-8NVW2sf/0/M/0V3A0006-M.jpg)
The other end is an SAE connector, which I was plugging into the battery tender that came with the bike. I have now upgraded to a Shorai lithium battery, which has a proprietary connector. What would be my best option to power the USB cable?
1. Use the original battery tender cable to connect the lead directly to the battery?
2. Splice the lead into something like the headlight?
3. Connect it somewhere else?
Ideally I would like it to be switched, so I don't drain power when the bike is off, though I gather it draws next to nothing when there is nothing plugged into the USB.
The bike is a 2009 M1100S. Thanks
#1 -- seems the most reasonable. Maybe put a sticker on that SAE cable "Not for charging/tender!" -- to remind you and/or service tech folks.
I had my 696 set up like #1 for over a year using the SAE cable connected to a powerlet socket with no issues before I sold the bike.
At some point I am going to have to be brave and work out how to lift the tank to get at the battery (the instal of the Shorai was done whilst at the mechanic). I shouldn't need to label the SAE, I could just leave the connection tucked well out of the way so it wasn't easily visible. If I was to hook into a switched source, what would people recommend?
Sorry for the highjack, but where did you get that USB to 2 flat? I have been making due with a cobbled together set up for years,...and thats what I would like.
Quote from: herm on June 02, 2014, 06:15:51 PM
Sorry for the highjack, but where did you get that USB to 2 flat? I have been making due with a cobbled together set up for years,...and thats what I would like.
No problem. www.burnsmoto.com (http://www.burnsmoto.com) - plenty of different options.
Well, I got around to actually doing it, rather than talking about it. Lifting the tank was easier than I thought. I put the old tender (with the inline fuse it comes with) back on the battery +ve and -ve terminals (the new tender has it's own connection to the battery). I then tucked all the excess wiring out of the way and connected the SAE to the USB cable. Now I have a powered USB port. I'm pretty unlikely to leave my phone attached with the bike off - it would get stolen - so I don't think I will need to worry about battery drain too much. I will keep an eye on the battery and can always charge with the Shorai tender, if I want.
I still like the idea of the port only being on when the ignition is on, but might leave that job until the bike is next in the workshop.
When
Quote from: StephenC on June 03, 2014, 01:03:13 AM
I still like the idea of the port only being on when the ignition is on, but might leave that job until the bike is next in the workshop.
When I installed my heated grips, I tapped into the brake light power wire to power a 12v relay.
Quote from: StephenC on June 02, 2014, 06:30:41 PM
No problem. www.burnsmoto.com (http://www.burnsmoto.com) - plenty of different options.
i just bought their dual USB option, but instead of using an SAE connector, i went wit the ground directly to batt and the positive to the headlight ( the SAE connection itself isnt water proof unless you place it somewhere well hidden). this is on my dual sport bike so it being water proof was pretty important for longevity.
How did you 'tap' the respective wiring? Cut off insulation and solder the new wire on, or is there an easier way?
Quote from: StephenC on June 02, 2014, 06:30:41 PM
No problem. www.burnsmoto.com (http://www.burnsmoto.com) - plenty of different options.
thanks!
Quote from: StephenC on June 03, 2014, 04:03:49 PM
How did you 'tap' the respective wiring? Cut off insulation and solder the new wire on, or is there an easier way?
There is an easier way.
THESE (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-18-14-gauge-splice-terminal-blue-85464/6300421-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15003%7CL3*15629#) in whatever size you need. They crimp on and cut through the insulation on the sides of the wire you're tapping, but they don't cut all the way through and they pretty much seal off the connection.
Thank you. I am going to trial the leads directly to the battery, if only as I don't want to lift the tank again with no good reason. If I have any starting issues I will look into splicing into the headlight wire (makes most sense as the connection is at the front of the bike). I plug my phone into the socket so infrequently (I commute and have figured out my route!), it isn't with a lot of effort.