I have joined the club... my cush drive destroyed my rear eccentric. Does anyone have information regarding aftermarket rear sprockets with the lips which prevent movement of the cush drives? Any advice regarding the selection of a sprocket (and possibly chain) is appreciated. I am a daily rider, but nothing aggressive. Just around town and to/from work.
Thank you!
George S
I have been very happy with this http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/PCD-2/Chain-Sprocket/PCD-2.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/PCD-2/Chain-Sprocket/PCD-2.html) plus sprocket. Other sponsors will have similar items and they all know what fits which bikes [thumbsup]
cool thanks! are there any chains you recommend? I want to be prepared in the event mine needs to be replaced.
thanks again for the info
G
I run D.I.D. Erv 3 because I deserve the best ;D
(if it's the best, it's only because there is a tiny bit less friction. It doesn't last longer.)
Unless you buy the wrong chain, I don't think you could go wrong.
I still recommend the sponsors though, because they have proved that they care enough to give quality advice.
When you can pull the chain rearward half a tooth, half way off the rear sprocket, it's worn out.
Check each link, 'turn' them a little, if they have 'frozen' - it might be worn out, but might just nedd chain lube/wax.
If you see lots of rubber O-rings sticking out, it will soon no longer hold it's lubrication and then 'freeze'/break.
Thanks stopintime! Hey so as i mentioned before, I plan on replacing the sprocket as well. I can measure the tooth count (I think it's 104), but how do I know the pitch? Or what pitch is the OE sprocket on that bike?
Forgive me if I've already asked this question... I'm having a bit of deja vu here. But I don't see this question in my thread... hmmm
I guess thats early onset old-age setting in! [laugh]
OEM chain was 525.
Some folks change to 520 to save weight, at the expense of longevity.
copy that. What about number of teeth... how much difference do you notice by going down 1 or 2? What do you sacrifice? I'm not racing this bike or anything; it's just my daily fun bike.
A second question... I am replacing the stator and rectifier. When I remove the side cover for the stator, is there anything else in there I should inspect/replace/upgrade?
thanks!
What tooth sprockets are on it now?
How many miles on the bike?
You could put a light flywheel in.
If doing that check the condition of the sprag clutch.
Not sure about the teeth. Its the factory sprocket; I'll verify the number before doing anything. 20K miles. What does a lighter flywheel accomplish and is there one you recommend? Im not at all familiar with the sprag clutch.
I'm sure the gasket has to be replaced after removing the cover, correct? How tight do I torque those bolts?
Thanks a lot!
Quote from: Speeddog on July 15, 2014, 04:04:35 PM
What tooth sprockets are on it now?
How many miles on the bike?
You could put a light flywheel in.
If doing that check the condition of the sprag clutch.
If no change in flywheel, tighten the flywheel nut !!! 270Nm
Thanks OneTrack! btw... the pretty girl in heels quote: best ever!
Quote from: George S on July 15, 2014, 06:25:23 PM
Thanks OneTrack! btw... the pretty girl in heels quote: best ever!
it from ducatiz . . . I just copied
Another question about replacing my rear sprocket: I attempted to purchase one from monsterparts, recommended by stopintime. however, the 525-42 is not currently in stock. they do have on the shelf a 525-41 (and 44). going down one tooth means faster acceleration, correct? This is not really my goal. If use the 41 instead of the 42, is there anything else I'll have to do differently? Different chain or anything like that?
Thanks!
Faster acceleration (higher revs at all times) comes from fewer teeth on the front sprocket or more on the rear sprocket. One tooth more or less on the rear is ~2% difference - not very substantial.
Which bike was this again?
Number of teeth on the front?
This is an '04 S4R. Looks like 15 on the front.
So given the choices of 1 tooth less, 2 teeth more, or wait for a period of time for the correct rear sprocket, what do you recommend? Again, my only goal is to get the bike back on the road.
Sprockets not in stock are usually there after a day or two, I should think...
Up two teeth rear will require the eccentric hub (chain adjusting capacity) to be moved forward quite a bit (by clockwise rotation) - resulting in added ride height and/or shorter wheel base. This may or may not be a problem, but it's not smart to change these settings if the result is not known and wanted.
I'd wait for the 42
I'd go with +2.
It won't make a huge difference in acceleration, will help some with snatchiness at low speed, and is available.
As a note, the SuperSprox "Stealth" 2-piece sprockets actually have a lip that will prevent the cush drives from backing out. It's not as significant as a full-fledged "tab," but it will get the job done for sure. Jeff at MonsterParts helped me out with this, as I didn't feel like jumping into the world of quick-change sprockets on a bike that gets about 3000m a year.
http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/736/CS-Sprocket/736.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/736/CS-Sprocket/736.html)
go 44.
Wow this project is taking a long time. So I have successfully replaced the eccentric hub. I also have a quick change sprocket ready to go. Here are my current hold ups:
Brake pads. Where is the best place to buy and is there a particular brand anyone recommends?
Chain and front sprocket. I cannot find in my manual the limit for chain stretch, i.e. when it should be replaced. Also, the manual recommends replacing both sprockets and the chain all at the same time. If I have to replace the chain (probable. the bike has 20K miles) then I don't really mind shelling out for a front sprocket. What front sprocket do you recommend? Oh also, how do you replace a chain? This is not described in the manual either
Thanks for your advice, everyone. I'll keep you updated.
[drink]
George
After I finish up with the hub, chain, sprocket, etc, I need to replace the rectifier-regulator. On the Rick's Motorsports website, there is an OEM for $120 and there is a "Hot Shot" (allegedly cooler running) r-r for $150. Does anyone have experience with these? Is the Hot Shot worth the extra $30?
Thanks,
George