just did a quick search but couldnt come up with anything - how many miles does one typically get out of a set of spark plugs on a 2 valve monster? i'm getting a lot more popping lately and the bike seems to be running rich, so I'm thinking I'm gonna take a look at them first. I'm just about to roll over 12k miles on my 1100, valves were adjusted at 7500..
side note: any tips for pulling the plugs?
should be check/replaced if necessary by 15K
thanks! timing's about right - will post a reply once I've pulled the plugs and ahd a look
you're welcome
The spark plugs should last 15K miles, but I would not consider it unusual for them not to last the first 15k. Anyway, for $7 = shipping from our sponsor California Cycleworks it wouldn't hurt http://ca-cycleworks.com/ngk-dcpr8e-each If you pick them up locally you want NGK part# 4339.
Clean area around plug with compressed air if possible. Remove plug. Sparingly apply anti seize. Start by hand to avoid cross threading. Torque to 20Nm. (15 ft/lbs) or about 3/4 turn after contact.
thanks for all the extra info Howie, it's much appreciated. I'd probably have forgotten the anti-seize.
I change mine every winter when I check the valves, adjust the chain, clean the K&N air filter, change fuel filter, check wheel bearings, flush brake and clutch fluid, adjust the chain, check TPS, adjust throttle bodies...compared to my 4V ST4s ABS, the 2V Monster is easy to work on.
Many people have claimed improved responsiveness/smoothness when scrapping the Champion's for NGK.
Some people prefer the DR8EA over the DCPR8E...not sure why. I think I'll look into that right now actually!
For the minimal price and time to install, it's not really a big deal changing them out more frequently than recommended. That gives you a chance to inspect the old ones for rich/lean issues or other developing problems and get ahead of trouble.
Quote from: Buck Naked on August 07, 2014, 02:22:24 PM
Many people have claimed improved responsiveness/smoothness when scrapping the Champion's for NGK.
Some people prefer the DR8EA over the DCPR8E...not sure why. I think I'll look into that right now actually!
Interestingly I just changed out the DCPR8E's after 15K interval for the D8EA (which I've had in there before).
I've seen older threads where the non resistor types pooched the electrics on older (carb'ed?) Monsters, no issues to note on my end.
The DCPR8E's seemed fine, a little crudded up, no issues and I've been killing it mileage wise (hi 50's for a 25mi commute and 60's on a
non-stop full tank). 56K miles on my 620 fwiw. I'll note if any difference noted.
The D8EA's need a 18mm socket while the DCP8RE use standard plug 5/8".
Very good advice to blow out the plug hole before removing. I actually had a large pebble stuck in there made unthreading
the vertical plug kinda tough.