Ducati Monster Forum

I've got a 2005 Monster 620 Dark that I purchased used about 4 years ago. It did not come with the Red Key (back then I didnt even know there was a Red Key). Now my Black Key is getting worn out in that I've had trouble getting it fully seated so I can turn it. I'm worried I might be a limited number of key turns away from not being able to start my bike.

What are my options here? I'm thinking it might be as follows:

Get the ECU Flashed to disable the immobilizer - (at least $250 I know of two places but I'd have to ship the ECU there) ... then..pick up a blank key on ebay and get it cut to match my current key. (no idea how much this would cost or where I'd get this done).

Is this a viable approach? Does anyone have a better or more cost effective approach? Any caveats I should be aware of? I'm in the Chicago area.

Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

you could have the IMMO deleted and then use any dash/key you wanted to use . . . From what I've read, remember I am at least 3K miles away, some sort of protection would be good . ..  Lemme do some diggin to see what can be done in your situation

Start drinking. Heavily.

For reals, tho.

You could get your black key cloned.  If I remember you are in Chicago?  http://www.omegalocksmith.com/ducati-motorcycle-keys/ (http://www.omegalocksmith.com/ducati-motorcycle-keys/)  Keep in mind, you are copying a worn key and you will still not posses a red key.  IMO, the money would be better spent on a reflash.

I thought to use any other key  (that wasnt cloned using the Red Key) I'd have to have a reflash to disable the Immobilizer. No?

There are services available to clone a black key without the red key.

Follow howie's link.

there is also a company in seattle I think . .  would have to look it up

I had a black key cloned by a local shop.  He used his machine for cars but when he looked in the manual, it said it worked for Ducati too.  I had to buy an aftermarket key with a transponder chip off of ebay to do it.  The key was about $40 and cloning was about $20 I think.  I also gave my red key a go and he was able to clone that too - it had all the functions of the red key but it was aftermarket black.

For about $250, Bobby at Houston Superbike can reflash the ECU and disable the immobilizer. Might even have a DP Race map he could load on it.

Just trying to understand the last part of this statement. Why would the money be better spent on a reflash?

between the cost of the blank, the cutting, the cloning, dunno, but, could be close to $250 . ..  and really, you could enjoy the 618cc engine a bit more with the DP map

Plus...

when your cluster dies you can put any gauges on the bike.

I recall stumbling on this guys suggestions on what to do without a red key a few months ago --

http://ducatikeys.runfrom.us/: (http://ducatikeys.runfrom.us/:)


Not saying its sage-like advice, but it does seem to be a low cost solution to the problem -- Just the cost of compatible key blank and cutting a new black key. Although I would be concerned with this approach if my bike was often parked on the street...

That glue trick is actually pretty clever! Lots of good advice here. Thanks so much. Since Im in Chicago I called the guy Howie posted & he's going to clone my black key tomorrow  (including rfid) for $75 & that includes the cost of the key!!

I do still want to get my immobilizer disabled though as Ive got some scratches on my gauges & Id like to replace them with white face ducati gauges. But $250 to reflash is steep as thats on top of the cost of gauges. Ive been told that changing my mapping wouldnt be worth it for a 620. Ive got Boom Tubes & I havent opened up my air box at all. She runs great now so Im nervous about changing the mapping as i know theres not one specific to my exhaust. If it were easily reversible Id consider it to see.

Any advice on the mapping here would be great.

Thanks again.

if your key is worn out and you cut a new one from that you will just have a copy of a worn out key

my first step would be use a little graphite powder to lubricate the lock , put the graphite on the key rather
than filling the lock with graphite

I mentioned that at the beginning or was it on another thread😕

You can use the DP MAP if you open up your airbox; what's your CO ? Should be between 3.5%~4.5%,  I've got the hi mouny termi kit and open airbox with trim set at 23 my CO % = 3.9% . . . If you can manage the CO% with your set up, then just disaable the IMMO

The key doesnt look visibly worn I was just saying that because it wasnt seating properly. The locksmith advised me to squirt some WD40 in the ignition and that cleared up the problem right away. Now it works fine. That being said I'm still getting my key cloned because I only have ONE key!  :o  and that has caused me much anxiety over the years. At least this way I dont have to worry about losing my key and not having a backup.

Mine is reflashed. So red key makes no difference.  I have engine work done (pistons etc) and mechanic never wanted the red key then.  Only reason I reflashed is because after a crash from trailer and fix headlight the electronic got messed up and wouldn't let her start up.  It cost $250 to reflash.

find yourself a new locksmith , doesnt know his arse from his elbow

Can't use WD40 in a lock is a myth.

I can testify to this statement cause it fixed my problem without issue and the same locksmith who suggested this made a duplicate of my key including RF in about 5 minutes for $75 and that included the price of the key.  [beer]

For the record I did not quiz him on his anatomy ... just sayin  :-[

of course you can, , same as you can use any old oil in your bike

it doesnt mean that it may or may not cause some issues in the future

Guess that is why the sticky ignition key in our 98 Passat worked perfectly for the six years we owned the car after being hit with WD 40. WD 40 is mostly Aliphatic Hydrocarbon and LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbo, used as a a water dispersant and also an excellent solvent, with a little petroleum.  WD-40 is probably not a good idea on brass locks, which our bikes do not have and should be followed up with graphite lube.  The argument against using WD 40 is the oil will eventually collect dirt and cause difficulty years later, yet many lock lubes contain solvent and oil as well as graphite.   Worried about future failure?  After freeing with WD 40, disassemble,clean, lube with dry graphite, reassemble.

Anyone have any experience mating new gauges with your existing key & ECU instead of doing a reflash to disable the immobilizer or transferring the chip from current gauges to a new set of gauges? Whats involved? How hard is it?

You should start a new thread in tech for that part.