Last month I had the electric wire to fuel pump fail issue.. I took out pump carved out the putty around the wires. Soldered back, refilled with jb weld.. While there inside the tank I changed the fuel filter too... Then I Put everything back and bike runs...no problem
But ever since then on a cold start and only on a cold start where the bike has sat over night. When I start her. She runs for 2-3 seconds and stalls.. I restart and she jeeps running..
I can avoid it if I start and and give her gas very lightly for the first 5 seconds..
Does this make sense ? Why did this start to happen since I did the recent work?
The two problems are probably not related. What year and model? If it has a fast idle lever are you using it?
Quote from: howie on October 19, 2014, 10:49:12 PM
The two problems are probably not related. What year and model? If it has a fast idle lever are you using it?
2005 s2r 800
It does have a fast idle lever which I am not using but never had to use previously
However I forgot to mention while I had my gas tank off and was working on the fuel pump issue I did drill about 20 holes into the airbox to let some more air in
not sure if this could be affecting the situation?
Those 20 holes will definitely affect fueling.
Do you have aftermarket slip-ons?
QuoteI forgot to mention while I had my gas tank off and was working on the fuel pump issue I did drill about 20 holes into the airbox to let some more air in
That would be a problem. As far as idle and start up a trim adjustment will work, but at speed you will be lean, even more so with aftermarket pipes.
Did you drill holes through the lid that holds the filter on, or through the box itself?
A pic or two of the holes would help.
Howie & ducpainter & speeddog
I have termi cans and recently put straight pipes and took out the catalytic.. After that I got the ecu flash.. The holes are on the top cover of the filter. I did holes a month after the reflash. I realize I should have put the holes prior to the ecu flash but I did not think it would affect that much
Depends on the map they used. Do you know? If they used a very rich map the holes might help. How did it run before you drilled the holes?
Like howie says the trim can be adjusted to richen up idle, and that might cure your stalling problem, or you can try the fast idle lever.
IMO, your next step is speak to whomever flashed your computer. If it is a DP map you were too rich with the closed air box. Better than that would be a dyno run. The trim should be adjusted with an exhaust gas analyzer or you are just guessing. Do keep in mind a little too rich will seem fine to the but dyno and too lean can lead to engine damage.
From your name I'm guessing you live in Canada? According to your owner's manual below 10oC (50oF the fast idle should be used.
Ok when you said trim I thought you were referring to the lever beside the clutch.
Is this something different?
I beleive it was the Ducati performance ecu. The bike was running fine but had lost a lot of its low end torque due to no back pressure from the cat removal
So that's why I did the holes in the air box
Trim is adjusted electronically in the ecu.
Fast idle is the lever next to the clutch.
You can't add back pressure by increasing air flow at either end of the system.
My old Monster didn't lose any grunt from adding slip-ons or modifying the airbox. I think you have a map that isn't right.
I'd say tape over the holes and see what it does.
That's nearly a free experiment.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 21, 2014, 02:14:54 PM
Trim is adjusted electronically in the ecu.
Fast idle is the lever next to the clutch.
You can't add back pressure by increasing air flow at either end of the system.
My old Monster didn't lose any grunt from adding slip-ons or modifying the airbox. I think you have a map that isn't right.
I was told when you open up the exhaust to free flow that you lose torque because you lose back pressure
Quote from: Speeddog on October 21, 2014, 03:39:01 PM
I'd say tape over the holes and see what it does.
That's nearly a free experiment.
I am thinking same
Hi CbCanada
My S2R800 2006 has all those mods, sans open and not drilled airbox.
A programmed Ultimap FIM ECU is fitted, no problems with fuelling, or low/mid torque.
I always use the fast idle lever from cold, it's very very rare that I don't.
The bike won't run on it's own until it's got a little warmth form a few mins of running.
Suggest you might have a tune issue.
Quote from: madalf71 on October 21, 2014, 11:17:22 PM
Hi CbCanada
My S2R800 2006 has all those mods, sans open and not drilled airbox.
A programmed Ultimap FIM ECU is fitted, no problems with fuelling, or low/mid torque.
I always use the fast idle lever from cold, it's very very rare that I don't.
The bike won't run on it's own until it's got a little warmth form a few mins of running.
Suggest you might have a tune issue.
Tune issue based on low torque after reflash?
I think your bike has a 5AM ECU, call Bobby at Houston Superbikes and tell him what's going on. I'm sure he can help.
Okay so is the general recommendation here a reflash?? That's will be expensive. It cost me $400 Canadian dollars for this current flash
More like the map installed at the reflash wasn't right for the bike.
Will the company that did it for you adjust/change the map, or do they only do a one size fits all?
My suggestion is first find out if you are running rich or lean throughout the range. Then go from there. At the minumum, at least do a spark plug check for color and idle CO with an exhaust analyzer as well as air bleed and synch. Again, if all is proper you should be using the cold start lever when starting on a cool day, if you do not need it you are running rich.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 23, 2014, 04:12:03 PM
More like the map installed at the reflash wasn't right for the bike.
Will the company that did it for you adjust/change the map, or do they only do a one size fits all?
not sure I left a few msges but get the run around
Quote from: howie on October 23, 2014, 04:15:34 PM
My suggestion is first find out if you are running rich or lean throughout the range. Then go from there. At the minumum, at least do a spark plug check for color and idle CO with an exhaust analyzer as well as air bleed and synch. Again, if all is proper you should be using the cold start lever when starting on a cool day, if you do not need it you are running rich.
I can check and read the plugs off idle I am familiar with that
Idle co exhaust analyzer?
Air bleed and sync?
Can you explain those two please
Your air bleeds have an effect on idle fuel strength and, since you have one throttle for each cylinder, flow must be equal for proper running. This should have been done by the shop that did the work for you.
Quote from: howie on October 24, 2014, 12:34:36 AM
Your air bleeds have an effect on idle fuel strength and, since you have one throttle for each cylinder, flow must be equal for proper running. This should have been done by the shop that did the work for you.
So it's same idea as carb syncing but instead it syncs the throttle bodies?
Yes.