I've been having this problem for a while, but lately it's gotten much worse. In short, I put in the key, turn it to on, and nothing happens. The indicators and lights don't activate. If I hit the starter, nothing happens. In the past, I could just turn the key on and off a few times, and eventually it would turn on after a handful of tries. I tried to open up the switch and look for dirty contacts, but it appears to be a sealed unit that can't be opened for service.
Just this week, I noticed that if I turn the switch on and just wait for a bit (7-15 seconds), it will light up. It worked that way the last two times I tried it. Once it's running there are zero problems.
Anyone had a similar issue? It's a complete mystery to me at this point.
I would check continuity out of the switch with an ohm meter.
It's possible the switch is bad, but it's also possible the main relay, located under the seat near the fuse panel, is faulty.
I've got a meter, but is it just two wires coming out of the switch? Any way I can check/test the relay directly?
Suppose I could just check my Snyder manual for that rather than ask on here like a lazy bum. ;)
Lift tank. Locate main relay. Remove relay. Turn key on. Power at terminal 85? Everything works up to relay. If not, get back to us. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminal 86 and ground. Now find or make a jumper wire and jump from terminal 30 to terminal 87. Starts? Replace relay.
Thanks, I'll run through that tomorrow.
Thread from the dead - winter hit early last year in Wisconsin so I never bothered working on the bike until now.
Anyone have a link to something that will show me where those numbered terminals are? What about the correct replacement relays? I've only found this: http://store.proitalia.com/ducati-oem-starter-relay-40a (http://store.proitalia.com/ducati-oem-starter-relay-40a) I'm not sure if that's the right one.
No that relay is under the tank and only controls the starter. It more commonly called the solenoid.
You want one of the ones in this post...
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=698.msg1215545#msg1215545 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=698.msg1215545#msg1215545)
Quote from: howie on October 28, 2014, 08:45:37 PM
Lift tank. Locate main relay. Remove relay. Turn key on. Power at terminal 85? Everything works up to relay. If not, get back to us. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminal 86 and ground. Now find or make a jumper wire and jump from terminal 30 to terminal 87. Starts? Replace relay.
I bought the relay referenced above down at AZ today. Promptly dropped it on the garage floor when taking it out of the box. D'oh! Popped it in - still won't start. Ran through the above instructions: power is 12v from 85 to ground. 86 to ground has continuity. Jumped 30 to 87 and everything lit up. So.....I think I broke the new relay when I dropped it. [bang]
Quote from: Destructobot on May 01, 2015, 05:15:47 PM
I bought the relay referenced above down at AZ today. Promptly dropped it on the garage floor when taking it out of the box. D'oh! Popped it in - still won't start. Ran through the above instructions: power is 12v from 85 to ground. 86 to ground has continuity. Jumped 30 to 87 and everything lit up. So.....I think I broke the new relay when I dropped it. [bang]
Return it. [evil]
Honesty's the best policy - told the guy I dropped it, he just said they're tough and exchanged it for a new one no questions asked.
Popped it in, still doesn't work. It clicked when I attached it to the plug, is it supposed to do that with the key off?
Anyway, I turn the key and get nothing. No lights, nada. As I wrote above I went through the tests and everything seems to check out. Just jumped 30 to 87 and the bike starts right up. Any ideas from here? What change should I see on a meter at the relay plug when I turn the key?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on May 04, 2015, 08:19:50 PM
Are you going to advertise it as an 1100s when you sell it without the "S" components?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on May 01, 2015, 05:36:03 PM
Return it. [evil]
Quote from: Destructobot on May 05, 2015, 03:09:12 PM
Honesty's the best policy - told the guy I dropped it, he just said they're tough and exchanged it for a new one no questions asked.
Popped it in, still doesn't work. It clicked when I attached it to the plug, is it supposed to do that with the key off?
Anyway, I turn the key and get nothing. No lights, nada. As I wrote above I went through the tests and everything seems to check out. Just jumped 30 to 87 and the bike starts right up. Any ideas from here? What change should I see on a meter at the relay plug when I turn the key?
Apparently it depends. :-\
Sounds like a problem I had: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28476.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28476.0) or http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=54983.5;wap2 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=54983.5;wap2)
Is there power at 85? If not check the wiring from the ignition switch and kill switch, particularly where it goes down the head tube.
Quote from: tbyte on May 05, 2015, 09:13:46 PM
Sounds like a problem I had: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28476.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28476.0) or http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=54983.5;wap2 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=54983.5;wap2)
So you're talking about the ignition switch itself? That was my first thought last year when the problem started. I figured it was just a corroded contact in the ignition lock. Lifted the tank and pulled the brackets to get to the switch - and discovered that it's a sealed unit with a wire bundle coming out. Are you referring to drilling out the screws that hold it together? How do you reassemble it afterward?
Also note - unlike in your posts above, I have power at 85 just fine. Everything seems to be ok at the relay. :mystery:
It took regular screws. I do not recall the size.
Yes, I meant the two screws in the back of the unit. I could jump her at the coupling to get her started and everything else seemed to be working plus with the jiggling key fixes I was pretty certain it was the ignition switch. So I had nothing to lose by drilling the screws out. I did not have spare to swap in and test.
Ok - so what is supposed to happen at the relay when I turn the key? Is it just connectivity across a couple of the other pins?
Quote from: Destructobot on May 06, 2015, 05:22:08 PM
Ok - so what is supposed to happen at the relay when I turn the key? Is it just connectivity across a couple of the other pins?
howie knows...
A relay is nothing more than a remote elector-mechanical switch. On a typical Bosch type 4 prong relay 85 (usually the trigger from your input, in this case the ignition switch) and 86 (ground) connect a winding, creating an electromagnet. Either terminal can be a trigger. 30 is power. When the winding is powered, a set of contact points are closed allowing power to flow through 87 to the component(s) you want to operate.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=bosch+4+prong+relay&view=detailv2&id=0FF60E10ADE81F693F59B54887A1397006F5CD4D&selectedindex=58&ccid=gkbLmGrp&simid=607994398461528049&thid=JN.93oU6CMYYp%2FDD1Sk22Ho4g&mode=overlay&first=1 (https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=bosch+4+prong+relay&view=detailv2&id=0FF60E10ADE81F693F59B54887A1397006F5CD4D&selectedindex=58&ccid=gkbLmGrp&simid=607994398461528049&thid=JN.93oU6CMYYp%2FDD1Sk22Ho4g&mode=overlay&first=1)
So if my switch is working correctly, I should get power at 85 when the key is on, but not when it's off?
Yes.
Turns out there isn't power at 85. It must have been a fluke that it worked the first time I tested it. Other than the ignition switch itself, what lies between the switch and relay that could cause a problem?
Wires. Common is a fractured wire coming down the head tube.
I finally got around to tracking down the gremlin, but have hit some snags. First, I'm working off this diagram: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=64720.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=64720.0) It appears to be correct - wire colors seem to match up with what I see on my bike.
There is NOT power at 85 with the key on. 86 to ground continuity is good. Starts with the key on and 30 jumped to 87. Maybe even with the key off, didn't try that.
Pulled the ignition switch out today. Key off - continuity on pins with blue and white wires, no continuity on the other two pairs of pins. Key on and that all flips -other two pairs have continuity.
The Orange and blue wire going to pin 85 at the relay HAS continuity with the same colored wire at the white connector that attaches to the ignition switch. I presume the other side of that connector (red wire) should be 12v, to then send power to pin 85 when the ignition is on? If so, that's the problem - no continuity between that red wire terminal and the positive post on the battery. I'm guessing that somewhere between that pin and the battery a wire is cracked.
Do I have my head wrapped around the problem correctly? I don't want to start unwrapping wire until I know where I'm headed.
Also, would it cause a problem to just wire up a jump across 30 and 87 and hide a switch for it underneath somewhere? I'm not selling the bike any time soon, so I don't care if it's a bit rigged, I just want it to work.
Now I'm thoroughly confused. Connections from the relay to everywhere else are good (86 to ground, 87a to pin 3 of the switch, 85 to pin 6), ignition switch works, but I still don't have power at 85 when the key is on. Any ideas? Kill switch problem?
You should have continuity between terminals 3and 6 on the switch side of the connector with the key on. If not, you have a bad switch. Yes, you could run a new wire and a toggle switch. The wire would nee do come off a fused circuit and you have to remember to shut it off. A bright LED would help. Me? I would fix it the right way.
This has been going on since last October? A good shop might make sense so you can [Dolph]
I never really worked on it until this week. Installed the switch last night, works fine. Yes I'd definitely like to fix it correctly, but I'd also like it to not be a paperweight in the meantime. The LED's in the indicator panel do just fine to remind me to turn it off. [thumbsup]
I tested the ignition switch, it works correctly. I'm just not figuring out what could cause no power at 85, based on the diagram.
A quick and easy test. Run jumper wire from terminal 6 on the switch to 85. Got power? Bad wire between the switch and relay. Another idea. Get someone with some knowledge, less than yours is OK, to work with you. That person might see something you are missing. Most of us have spent time diagnosing a fuel problem and discovering after many hours that the problem was an empty fuel tank.
I checked all the connections between the switch and relay for continuity, and they were good. I didn't try jumping it it like that though, I'll give it a shot.
MYSTERY SOLVED!
I figured out that the old relay and new relay don't behave the same. Popped the old one back in, and occasionally it would work. The times it doesn't work, the right tap on the relay makes it come to life. Long story short - the off the shelf relay I got from O'Reilly's must not be a direct replacement. Going to order one of these and hopefully be done with it - - http://store.proitalia.com/ducati-oem-starter-relay-40a (http://store.proitalia.com/ducati-oem-starter-relay-40a)
[thumbsup]. Way to go.
Relay showed up today. Popped it in and it works like a charm. [thumbsup]
Just goes to show, buy the right part from the get-go.