Ducati Monster Forum

Sensible headlight upgrade / Installing relay & harness (& High wattage bulb, if you wish)

INTRODUCTION

OK, as the title says, it’s about “sensible” mod about upgrading your Monster’s headlight system.
NO, it’s not about HID, it’s not about putting LED bulb into your stock head light either.
It’s about installing relay and harness , making your headlight working as it should.
(Then, only then, you can play with high wattage bulb, if you wish.)

Why install relay and harness ?

Simply put, stock headlight system wiring is not designed for optimum (headlight ) performance. Period.
Stock wiring is a  compromise between manufacturing cost, ease of assembling at production line, etc, etc.
As a result, there’s usually about 1v, sometimes even 2v voltage drop at the headlight bulb socket.
So, with the stock wiring, your head light output is severely compromised because your light bulb is not getting sufficient voltage.
(Read bout Voltage and light output relation, (also, why and how to use relay to upgrade your wiring system), here, at Daniel Stern Lighting.)
 http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html)

Therefore, ...

Just swap the bulb to P**A exst**m wh*t*  and it will be as bright as 100/110w ? No, It just won’t happen.


PART 1   Bulbs

I’d like to talk a little bit about the bulbs before going to install relay / harness. Because that’s what most people change first when they want to “upgrade” their lighting system on the bike.

 

If you still believe PIAA extreme white plus (or even worse, Sylvania silverstar) would be an improvement over stock, I strongly recommend reading about blue coated bulbs.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/blue.html (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/blue.html)

And  about Sylvania sylverstar lawsuit.
https://autolightclaims.com/mainpage/Notice.aspx (https://autolightclaims.com/mainpage/Notice.aspx)

http://www.law360.com/articles/556866/sylvania-to-pay-30m-to-settle-headlight-false-ad-suit (http://www.law360.com/articles/556866/sylvania-to-pay-30m-to-settle-headlight-false-ad-suit)

Now, the fun part.
I took some photos of different bulbs with stock wiring S4R. It is very difficult to accurately reproduce what your eyes see at night in photograph. But looking at those picture will give you some idea.

PIAA extreme white plus (seems still popular , unbelievable)
NAPA safetylite (bought them only because they were 30% off at local store)
Phillips Vision Plus (good balance between beam performance, bulb life and the cost.)

All of them 60/55w, and road legal. (in U.S.)

PIAA extreme white plus Low beam

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Piaa_low_zps71d05488.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Piaa_low_zps71d05488.jpg.html)

PIAA extreme white plus High beam

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Piaa_hi_zps4ea41aec.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Piaa_hi_zps4ea41aec.jpg.html)


NAPA safetylite Low beam

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Napa_low_zps63578814.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Napa_low_zps63578814.jpg.html)
 
NAPA safetylite High beam

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Napa_hi_zps48fbcc57.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Napa_hi_zps48fbcc57.jpg.html)


Phillips Vision Plus Low beam

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Phil_VP_lo_zps6368ecdc.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Phil_VP_lo_zps6368ecdc.jpg.html)

Phillips Vision Plus High beam

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Phil_VP_Hi_zpsab01d725.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Phil_VP_Hi_zpsab01d725.jpg.html)

If you look carefully, you can tell PIAA is the worst of the three. (worst beam pattern, worst light output.)

Even more fun part.
For your entertainment, I put PIAA extreme white on the right hand side, and regular ($10, 60/55 w) NAPA bulb on the left hand side of my daily driver (92 NA6 Miata It runs CIBIE 7-inch round lamp, relay and heavy duty custom wiring (10 gauge wire all the way) and ceramic connector for 100w bulbs. So even 60/55 w road legal bulbs are much brighter in this set up.)
Now, take a loot at how they perform, side by side.


Low beam
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Reg_vs_piaa_low_zps16be20ef.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Reg_vs_piaa_low_zps16be20ef.jpg.html)

High beam
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Reg_vs_piaa_hi_zps8cc2f8f3.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Reg_vs_piaa_hi_zps8cc2f8f3.jpg.html)

Driving shot
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Reg_vs_piaa_zps3a26359b.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Reg_vs_piaa_zps3a26359b.jpg.html)
You can clearly see PIAA’s light output is a lot weaker.

Now, with NAPA safetylite on the left, same PIAA on the light.

Low beam(in drizzle)

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Napa_rain_low_zps8233b46a.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Napa_rain_low_zps8233b46a.jpg.html)

High beam (in drizzle)

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Napa_rain_hi_zpsb1d107e4.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Napa_rain_hi_zpsb1d107e4.jpg.html)

Driving shot (in heavy fog)
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Napa_rain_zps08b2eda7.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/Napa_rain_zps08b2eda7.jpg.html)

You can see PIAA is pretty much useless in those bad weather condition.

End of part 1. To be continued.

Good informative posting with empirical evidence. Also glad to see Stern's site as a reference.  [thumbsup]

It reinforces my opinion of Piaa bulbs. They got my money once, in spite of Stern's information. Seems some of us. myself included, buy into the hype. No more.   >:(

Brilliant,  Can't wait for part two. 

I did a ton of research into lights and all I ended up was confused.  Definitely wasted a few bucks on some Sylvania ZXE bulbs.  My next thought was replacing the entire headlight with Clearwater LED units.  Big cash though.

There is a big difference between the Silverstars and stock.  Bulb life [bang]  Can't wait to see where you put the relay.

IF you really want to go that route (two LED driving lights to replace stock single head lamp) , I'd suggest to take a look at cyclops adventure's offerings. To be precise, their " long range optimus" lamp, with round housing.
They will fit right in between stock head lamp mounting tabs, they can be used with dimmer, AND you can put lens cover (filter)on to give them clear cut off just like DOT approved head lights. (Also, keep in mind that because they are "snap into place" covers, it doesn't matter which way you mount the lights.)

* I have no affiliation with that vendor, cyclops adventure, other than purchasing a set of LED lights.

How they look (on Monster)

My set up (notice right hand side and left hand side are different lens ? 10 degree spot on the left, 20 degree "slightly wider beam" on the right.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/DSC00629_zpsa8e437ed.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/DSC00629_zpsa8e437ed.jpg.html)

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/DSC00628_zps81fc12bb.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/DSC00628_zps81fc12bb.jpg.html)

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/DSC00630_zps5f2d4b7d.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/DSC00630_zps5f2d4b7d.jpg.html)

Here's an example of using them as "head lights".
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21189581&postcount=263 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21189581&postcount=263)

The products
http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/-Long-Range-Optimus-LED-Auxliary-light-Round_p_10.html (http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/-Long-Range-Optimus-LED-Auxliary-light-Round_p_10.html)

I'll cover this subject after the headlight story.

You might consider moving this to Tutorials.

Great thread.

Yes. Please move it to tutorial section.

Part 2   Installing relay and harness

I assume you have already read Daniel Stern’s web page about why and how to use relays.
To put it very simple, you want to minimize voltage drop (at headlight bulb socket), so you want to take the power out directly from the battery post, you also want to use bigger (heavier gauge) wire for that purpose. And you will use relay, as a switch, to turn high beam / low beam (and to turn it on and off, if your bike has headlight on / off switch. US bikes don’t have one) which will be  triggered by stock head light circuit.

Now, there are some options to do this mod.
1)Buy all the parts locally , and make your own harness.
   The cheapest option. All the parts can be purchased in a place such as Radio Shack, auto parts store. Depending on  where you live, how busy you are, this may not be the most economical option.

2)Buy Daniel Stern’s “kit” offered on his web site.
   His kit contains all the parts you will need. You just have to supply wires. Single headlight kit is currently $39.
   I have purchased his kit in the past and have been very pleased with the result.

3)Buy “harness kit” from, for example, easternbeaver.
   Jim Davis at easternbeaver sells pre-assembled harness at $52.95 for a single headlight unit. Having heard about his harness being one of the best around, I decided to try his harness this time. (After some e-mail going back and force and he convinced me that I can not make nearly as good a harness as his.)

Easternbeaver H4 kit   http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html)

OK. Let’s get started.

Oh, wait, ... before we actually start working on a bike, .... we need to talk a little bit about ...

Tools and crimping the connector.

I would say, from my own experience, 80% of the problem you have after installing electrical accessory on vehicle is coming from poor crimping.(15% coming from ground problem.)
Do you have proper crimping tool ? Do you know how the proper crimping is supposed to be done ?

This is how it should be done.
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/WireCrimp_zpsdcc8f184.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/WireCrimp_zpsdcc8f184.jpg.html)

Indent should be the opposite side of the barrel seam.

Also, I recommend using uninsulated terminal and cover it with heat shrink tube or self fusing silicon tape.

And here’s the crimper that I use.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00663_zpsa7ad1807.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00663_zpsa7ad1807.jpg.html)

Snap-On PWCS7CF

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=648778&group_ID=742282&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=648778&group_ID=742282&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

On cars and bikes electrical project, I almost exclusively use this crimper / cutter / stripper.
(I also use Klein, #1005. Bottom one in the photo. Klein can be used for big heavy gauge wire(10 gauge) but also works well for more commonly used (on vehicles) 16-18 gauge wires. When working on vehicle, however, I find that the Snap-On’s form factor makes a lot of sense, therefore, much easier to use.)
Don’t think cheap stamped metal crimper that comes with assorted terminal set can do the proper crimping job.

Klein 1005
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/crimpingcutting-tools/crimpingcutting-tool-non-insulatedinsulated-connectors (https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/crimpingcutting-tools/crimpingcutting-tool-non-insulatedinsulated-connectors)

Easternbeaver’s website actually has pretty good info about this subject. If you are going to make your own harness, read his page before starting to cut wires and crimp terminals.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html)

Now, you have to make a decision. Snap-On crimper costs $45.25, Klein tools crimper costs around $24 - $30.
If you think you are going to do this kind of project over and over again, go ahead, buy a quality tool. It’s worth spending extra money on these tools, and you won’t regret.
On the other hand, if you are not really into this sort of thing, only want to do this one time, then buying finished harness from Jim (easternbeaver) is a lot more economical solution. (save both time and money.)

Installing relay / harness kit from easternbeaver

Let’s take a look at how easy it is to install the relay / harness kit. Even if you’re going to DIY rout, you still should look at this, so that you will have clearer idea of where to mount each components and how long the wire(s) should be,and how many different color / size of wires you will need.


(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00636_zps8cfb6c9b.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00636_zps8cfb6c9b.jpg.html)

Here’s how my harness looked like when it arrived.
Notice it looks a bit different from easternbeaver website photo ?
Mine has no ring terminals at the end, also has no fuse holder.
I ordered mine this way, because I’m going to install additional fuse panel and wire the harness to that fuse panel.
(If you don’t specify, it will come with fuse holder and ring terminals.)


Before you start anything, disconnect the negative lead from the battery, and make sure it (the wire terminal) wont’ move around and accidentally touch the negative post of the battery while you are working on the bike.

Also, make sure the fuse holder (on the harness kit, if you order that way) is empty.


(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00645_zpsc2ce8a30.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00645_zpsc2ce8a30.jpg.html)


Now, remove the headlight assembly from the bike. Separate the light unit and bucket.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00646_zps9eddeabf.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00646_zps9eddeabf.jpg.html)

Pull the factory light harness (from outside of the bucket) slightly, until the black vinyl tube comes out from the rubber grommet , then stop.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00647_zpsf5207a5e.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00647_zpsf5207a5e.jpg.html)

Now, (from inside of the bucket) push the new harness into the grommet. It’s tight, but it will fit. (Use dry lubricant, such as silicone spray)
Be patient.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00649_zps9daef775.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00649_zps9daef775.jpg.html)

Keep pushing the harness in. Until it looks like this.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00650_zpseffa851a.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00650_zpseffa851a.jpg.html)

Now, you have two options.

Option 1
You can just plug the male H4 coupler (of the harness kit, near the top of the photo) into the headlight (female) socket (of original headlight wiring), then, connect the harness kit’s socket(female) onto the bulb. Easy.
Option 2
You can also cut off the male H4 coupler and stock headlight female socket. Directly connect the original wire and harness kit’s wire. (see photo below).

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00653_zpsbb44c9b4.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00653_zpsbb44c9b4.jpg.html)

You may feel uncomfortable about cutting off OEM wiring, but this is actually a better option.
If you still want to go option 1, tape coupler / socket together so that they won’t come apart.
If you decide to cut off the original socket, make sure you connect low beam wire to yellow wire of the kit, high beam wire to white wire of the kit. (Loot at my photo above. Kit’s yellow wire is connected to bike’s  white wire (‘cause that’s the color of OEM wiring for low beam), white wire is connected to yellow / black wire (OEM wiring color for high beam).
Don’t get confuse by the color of the wire. And you don’t need wiring diagram of the bike to figure out which wire is for low beam and which wire is for high beam.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/socket_wiring_diagram_zps0161fdb1.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/socket_wiring_diagram_zps0161fdb1.jpg.html)

Look at the socket from the back side. (NOT the side you plug the bulb in, back side) Top one is for low beam, right one is for high beam, left is ground (and the ground wire is normally black, so you can easily tell )

Now, put back lamp unit on the bucket. Monster’s bucket isn’t that deep, but you should be able to fit everything in there.
(try to position relays so that when you put the lamp unit on the bucket and close it, the relays get pushed against the bucket(but not too hard), so they won’t rattle around.

Re-install the headlight unit on the bike.

After that, you can just route the harness to the battery, which is easy enough with Monster.

Unless you want to install a fuse panel (I will write about this later), you will hook up the wires to the battery terminals now.

Double check everything you have done, then put the fuse (15A, comes with the kit, don't put bigger one in there !) in the fuse holder, and you are done !

(in the next post, I will try to show beam shot at night. And a bit more info about DIY option.)

DIY options

What size of wire and what rating of fuse ?

If you are going to make your own harness, I really want you to spend some time on reading this and understand about wire size and fuse selection. It will also help you when installing other accessories, such as air horn, auxiliary lights, heated gear, etc.

So, how do you figure out those things ?
The bigger, the better ?
NO.

The current draw of the device(s) you are going to put on dictates the wire size, and the wire size dictates fuse rating.

Let’s take an example.
You are going to install Osram Rallye 70 / 65 w bulb
http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html (http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html)

Voltage at the light bulb socket would be around 13v, so the current draw in low bean would be

Power (Watt) / Voltage (Volt) = Current (amps)

65 (W) / 13 (V) = 5 (A),

at high beam,
70(W) / 13 (V) = 5.4 (A).

Worst case scenario , assume voltage drops down to 11 (V),

Low beam
65 (W) / 11(V) = 5.9 (A)

High beam
70(W) / 11(V) = 6.4(A)

So, you are going to design the circuit  to be capable to handle 10 (A).

Now, look at the chart in the link below.
http://www.eol.ucar.edu/isf/facilities/isff/LOCAL_access_only/Wire_Size.htm (http://www.eol.ucar.edu/isf/facilities/isff/LOCAL_access_only/Wire_Size.htm)

And look at “Maximum amps for chassis wiring”.

Ducati’s stock headlight wiring is 18 gauge, and it’s rated at 16 (A), so, on the paper, it should be able to handle 70 / 65 (W) bulb.
However, those numbers on the chart meant for wiring in the air, not in the bundle and put into the motor vehicle’s wiring loom. It also does not take heat build up ( = insulation break down)etc into account.
So, subtract 10(A) from the chart’s rating amps for safety measure, I wouldn’t trust 18 gauge wire for any more than 6 (A) current draw, especially for things like a headlight circuit.
(Keep in mind your headlight is ON all the while when the ignition switch is on. It will be ON for hours and hours continuously. On the other hand, air horn, for example, would be on only for 5 to 10 second at the most.)

You could do with 16 gauge ( rated 22 (A) - 10 (A) = 12 (A) ), but I would personally use 14 gauge myself ( 32 (A) -10 (A) = 22 (A), perfectly capable to handle even 100 / 90 W bulb. Go on and try calculating by yourself.)

OK, so you decided to use 14 gauge wire for primary lead. You will need black and red.
Use the same gauge wire for negative and positive. The length doesn’t matter (one can be shorter / longer than the other) but the gauge size should be the same.

Now, for the fuse.
It seems some people got the wrong idea about putting fuse, that they believe the fuse is there to protect the device they put on.
No, it is opposite. You install fuse to protect the wiring (the circuit) from the short and overloading.
In other word, the fuse is there to protect your vehicle and yourself from the potential fire.
The fuse that’s rated for too small current would constantly blow, the fuse that’s too big will never blow which means in the event of short, it will cause wire / connector / switch melt down or burning up > fire.

So, how do we determine the right fuse rating, then ?
The very basic rule here is,

Choose
less (A) rating than the wiring (circuit) can handle, but
more (A) rating than the device( you are putting on) ‘s current draw (at worst case scenario)

So, in this example, wires you choose to use are 14 gauge, they can handle up to 22 (A) safely, and the light bulb current draw would be around 7 (A) in worst case, so use either 10 (A) or 15 (A). I would choose 15 (A) because,


1 when you press “flash to pass” button, head lamp will draw around 10 (A).
2 If I want to go even higher wattage bulb (100/90 w), current draw at high beam comes close to 10 (A) (around 9 (A) )
3 blow fuse on headlight circuit can cause more trouble than other circuit.

All right, now we figured out we need 15 (A) fuse for the circuit.
(Remember, you put the fuse in, as the weakest link of the system. 22(A) would be the wire’s limit but the circuit only needs 10 (A) at the most. So use 15 (A), not 20 (A) or 30 (A), because any more current draw than 15(A) means there’s serious fault in the circuit. And you should know by now, if you put 30 (A) fuse in this circuit, it won’t protect anything when something goes wrong. (The wire will melt or burn BEFORE the fuse would blow.)

The way you have written this make me feel like I could even do it [laugh]. Ill wait for the next installment [clap]
After riding back from Phillip Island (Moto GP) and getting to Cooma at dusk makes you realise how bad our headlights are.

I was going to write about relay, but decided to talk a little bit about the bulb again.

Phillips Vision Plus

OK, I removed useless PIAA extreme white plus, and put Phillips Vision Plus on the right hand side.
And here’s an example of night time beam shot of Phillips Vision Plus. (Sorry, I come back home late at night, and can’t fire up the bike... will have to wait until weekend.)

Low beam
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/DSC00667_zps4873bc65.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/DSC00667_zps4873bc65.jpg.html)

Like I said before, today’s digital camera automatically makes many adjustment, so it’s very difficult to accurately represent how things look to human eyes at night with digital photo. You can actually see beyond the curb and driveway with this set up. (You can kinda see in this photo, too. Grass and lower part of the fence, just about where the beam is cut off .)
Also, you can tell it throws a lot more useful light (not just about brightness, you can actually see the more detail on the road surface.)

High beam
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/DSC00666_zps3c1c1980.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/NA6%20Miata/Headlight/DSC00666_zps3c1c1980.jpg.html)
Notice you can now see the tree beyond the gate of the neighbor’s house ?
And look, how clearly you can see all across the range !
Not only your distance vision is enhanced, your peripheral vision is also greatly improved.

And remember, this is still a 60 / 55 W bulb (well, 67 / 60.5 w, actually, according to the package) and NOT the top of the line bulb .


I still have NAPA safety lite on the left hand side.
Will talk about this bulb next time.
(and hopefully I can take night time beam shot of the Monster this weekend.)

Yes, you can do it ! But, let me explain a little bit more ...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Okay, I took a couple of photos tonight, but ...

1 )  I forgot to re-aim the headlight, so it’s pointing a bit downward.
2 )  I was forgetting  that I wired auxiliary lights to be “ON” all the time.

So, keep in mind you really can not compare these photos to the ones in my first post.
(I’ll take photos again, for better reference.)

First, low beam only
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/lowBeam_zps5fd02ee4.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/lowBeam_zps5fd02ee4.jpg.html)

In reality, you can (literally) see the difference before and after (the harness mod), even with stock bulb.
This photo was taken with Phillips vision plus in the stock (Bosh 7 1/4 inch) headlight.
Can you see the difference in the photo ?

Next, low beam plus LED cornering light at 40% output
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Lo40_zpsa74030ef.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Lo40_zpsa74030ef.jpg.html)

Can you tell how much more you can see now? And how much more detail you can see, especially at around the edge of beam pattern? (again, in real life, the difference is even more impressive.
(Also, I haven’t finished aiming those lights either.)

Then, hight beam with LED lights at 100% output.
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/Hi_zps66acfe1e.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/Hi_zps66acfe1e.jpg.html)

As you may already notice, the yellowish light around the white light (headlight beam) is cornering lamps light output.(I have amber filter on them.)
I hooked them up with skene programable dimmer, and set up like

Ignition on > automatically goes to 40% brightness.
High beam on>automatically goes to 100% brightness.
there’s an option of 0% with low beam (low beam only).
That's why there's no "high beam without LED lights" photo.
(Like I said, I'll take photos without LED lights, later.)

I’ll cover about auxiliary light later. right now, we are going back to
Relay and DIY harness making tips !

(but, really, if you “seriously” want to see better at night,
adding more light is pretty much the best option.)

About the relay, what to buy, where to buy them, and how to make wiring

Your circuit upper limit is not only determined by the fuse, but also relay. (For example, if the relay you put in that circuit is rated for 20 A, it is only capable of 20 A. Simple.) They come in some different amp (A) ratings. So choose relay according to your need.

example

http://www.radioshack.com/install-bay-e-123-30-amp-tyco-relay/55064959.html#start=19&sz=12 (http://www.radioshack.com/install-bay-e-123-30-amp-tyco-relay/55064959.html#start=19&sz=12)
http://www.aerostich.com/12v-40a-sealed-relay.html (http://www.aerostich.com/12v-40a-sealed-relay.html)
http://www.radioshack.com/nte-r51-5d40-12f-auto-50a-12vdc-spdt-relay/55048290.html#start=23&sz=12 (http://www.radioshack.com/nte-r51-5d40-12f-auto-50a-12vdc-spdt-relay/55048290.html#start=23&sz=12)
http://www.aerostich.com/20v-70a-sealed-relay.html (http://www.aerostich.com/20v-70a-sealed-relay.html)

Above example are all so called “Bosch 5-pin” type, commonly used on cars and motorcycles.
These are just the examples of 30, 40, 50 and 70 A ..., anything rated for more than 20 A works for headlight circuit purpose. You don’t need to pay extra $ for big one, such as 70A shown above (unless you own full dress GoldWing and light up like a christmas tree and install stereo and CB and heated gear and electric massager on your bike.)

Where to buy the relay, well, it really depends on your situation. You can buy them from radioshack or local auto part s store. You can buy them rom Aerostich website, too. But, if it is difficult to find all the parts / supply locally, I’d suggest buying everything at once, from one vendor, like Waytek.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1402/Mechanical-Relays-Connectors/&Component-Type=Mini-Relays (http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1402/Mechanical-Relays-Connectors/&Component-Type=Mini-Relays)

(It is much easier and it will save your time.)

Harness making, example

Here are some example photo (this harness is for aftermarket dual tone horn set.)

First, look at the bottom of the relay. See the number on each terminal ? (30, 87, 87a,85, 86)

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/relay_zps8691bd2b.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/relay_zps8691bd2b.jpg.html)
Then, look at this. Get a piece of paper and pen, and start drawing your diagram on the paper.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/5_mini_relay_zps83943c59.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/5_mini_relay_zps83943c59.jpg.html)

85 is ground

86 is positive side of coil, connect trigger wire here

30 is power feed, connect to fused power source. (the current that goes into this terminal will come out from 87, and feed the accessory you are putting on)

87 is NO (Normally Open), which means “off”, until terminal 86 is fed with voltage (then, it will close, means “ on”.)

(87a is NC (Normally Closed), which means “ on” while trigger terminal 86 has no current. For the  purpose of horn and headlight relay, you don’t use this terminal.)

Here’s an example of half finished harness.
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/horn_harness_1_zps3f37fa80.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/horn_harness_1_zps3f37fa80.jpg.html)
(Note, there’s no fuse holder and ring terminals because I’m going to hook up this to fuse block, not the battery terminal post.)
Black wire is ground (16 gauge, thin black wire is for stock horn wiring ground side connector, 20 gauce), green wire is for “trigger”’ the relay (will be connected to stock horn wiring : 20 gauge), orange is for feeding power (16 gauge), short one goes between power source (fuse block, or battery terminal) and relay terminal 30, long one goes between relay terminal 87 and horns.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/relay-socket_zpsb6bdd48e.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/relay-socket_zpsb6bdd48e.jpg.html)
Use relay socket rather than putting four wires directly on the relay terminals.

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/tidy2_zps183412bb.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/tidy2_zps183412bb.jpg.html)

Tidy up things before putting the harness on the bike.
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/loom_zps8fa5c838.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/loom_zps8fa5c838.jpg.html)

It will save time in the end.



to be continued...

Many accessory companies use 86 as the trigger.  I have no idea why.  Convention is 86 ground, 85 trigger.  Either will work, winding circuit complete, points close, power flows from 30 to 87. 

Usually the first interweb posting re a common instruction is picked up and copied by other vendors and then becomes the defacto norm/practice, right or not.

I agree with you re convention being 85 as the trigger, even though either will work. I suspect a vendor picked up on the Bosch manual which states that 86 should be the 12V connection and 85 should be the ground since newer relays come with an internal diode and the other vendors followed suit.

Myself, I make sure I have a good supply of fuses and wire the suckers up until they work and light up my trusty test lamp. Then I connect to the system.

I forgot the numbers, but the ones with the diode are a different part number, and usually used where spike voltage is a problem.  Using 85 as ground actually nullifies the effect of the diode.  Anyway, I should have clarified my post.  It was not a correction to S21FOLGORE's excellent thread, but to prevent confusion when testing other circuits.

We know you only intended to share your expertise and had no other motivation. And it only adds to S21FOLGORE's thread.

Interesting re your comment about using 85 for the ground on a diode equipped relay. Since it is obvious to all that I barely know my way around a wire I'll fess that I was quoting the Bosch manual on relays. Since it was probably authored by some marketing type I'll go with your advice.  :)

Curious, how did you mount the 2 cyclops onto the forks? I bought these (square ones unfortunately - they didn't have round ones when I bought them).

Mine are actually mounted on the frame tubes, using the mount from “Tech mount”.

http://www.techmounts.com/products/index.php?page_function=detail&product_id=195 (http://www.techmounts.com/products/index.php?page_function=detail&product_id=195)

A lot of online vendors who sell auxiliary lights carry this mount. (I believe what PIAA sells as “360 bracket “ is actually the same products.)

Initially, I was thinking to mount the LED lights on the forks.
To be precise, fork bottom cases. Some of you may already know,  there are many “kit”  (including Clearwater,) that use front fender mounting bolts to mount the lights on the fork bottoms.

However, on my S4R, fork bottom case does not have threaded bosses for mounting the fender. Instead, two plastic ring- clips are mounted on the fork bottoms and mounting bolts  (M6) are threaded into that plastic rings.

I just couldn’t trust these plastic rings and M6 bolts for mounting the lights, so I though about getting something like this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/20994/i/pro-tek-fork-tube-clamps (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/20994/i/pro-tek-fork-tube-clamps)

and mount them on the forks, slightly below the lower triples.

(another option would be lumalink mount
http://www.lumalink.com/gallery.php?c=Ducati (http://www.lumalink.com/gallery.php?c=Ducati)

I have seen their products in the fresh, and they are really nice. (and they should be , for that kind of money).

In the end, I decided to mount them on the frame, rather than the forks.
I will write about this subject later. (which product to choose, mounting options, etc.)

As for the relay (85 and 86 terminal), for the purpose of this tutorial thread, I explained the most basic way (the way relay is normally used. )

Terminal 85 and 86 are interchangeable UNLESS there’s a diode in the relay.( It doesn't matter which one goes which, since what you’re powering is a coil inside of the relay.)

There are more advanced , creative ways to use relays, but that subject does not belong to this thread.
(Here’s one example
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram17.html (http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram17.html)
If you find it interesting, look around the site, you will find a lot more interesting stuff over there.)

Ah thanks for the links! Curious, where did you hook the negative leads from the lights to? I have the 2 negative U's hooked to the metal bracket but the connection is a little iffy there.

I hooked up mine to the (additional) fuse panel .

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00635_zps9dc67dc7.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00635_zps9dc67dc7.jpg.html)
(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00654_zps636f2e4e.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00654_zps636f2e4e.jpg.html)

You can buy small terminal block and use it as a ground bus.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78256/TERMINAL-BLOCK-4-GANG-100A/ (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78256/TERMINAL-BLOCK-4-GANG-100A/)
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78255/TERMINAL-BLOCK-5-GANG-100A/ (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78255/TERMINAL-BLOCK-5-GANG-100A/)
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78257/BUSBAR-COVER-FOR-2304-2305/ (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78257/BUSBAR-COVER-FOR-2304-2305/)

(cover is not necessary.)

Connect one of the screw terminals and battery negative post  (use 12 gauge wire), then mount the terminal block somewhere convenient, such as under the seat, under the fuel tank, behind the side cover. Then, you can connect negative leads from the LED lights onto this terminal block. A lot more solid ground connection and looks neat / clean.(take a look at the example photos in 5-gang terminal’s link page.)

Ah that is genius. Thanks! Now I may have to solder some longer lines to the negative lines to make it all the way to the back of the bike...

Are you rerouting all your fuse lines to the additional fuse panel (i'm assuming that it's an electronic one?)

Check out posi-lock before grabbing soldering iron.
http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html (http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html)

When working on vehicle electrical project, this connector is very useful. (especially when you need to shorten / lengthen the wire a little bit).
They are re-usable, too.

Okay, so here’s a little bit better beam shot at night.


First, low beam + Cyclops LED lights 10% brightness

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00704_zpsfebb1e33.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00704_zpsfebb1e33.jpg.html)

Next, low beam + Cyclops 40% brightness

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00705_zps1ccf141e.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00705_zps1ccf141e.jpg.html)

Then, low beam + Cyclops 70% brightness

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00706_zpsdf71995b.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00706_zpsdf71995b.jpg.html)

And, high beam + Cyclops 100% brightness

(http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o420/ZX750E2/Monster/Lighting/DSC00707_zps1f95646b.jpg) (http://s342.photobucket.com/user/ZX750E2/media/Monster/Lighting/DSC00707_zps1f95646b.jpg.html)

Here’s the video shot from the front of the bike.
Cyclops LED (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKO_pmNfzI0&feature#)

With my set up, Cyclops LED lights are controlled by Skene design’s programable dimmer, and there’s no ON / OFF switch. When the ignition is on, LED lights come on, and stay on all the time. Of course, you don’t have to do this kind of set up. You can just install them with simple ON / OFF switch. But I can guarantee you that you would be a lot happier with dimmer set up. (If you are going to go through all the trouble of fitting auxiliary lights on a Monster anyway.)
I installed three position toggle switch on the left side of handle bar (on clutch reservoir stay), so that I can change the brightness easily while riding.
The link for programable dimmer.
http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175.shtml (http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175.shtml)

I missed this question.
The additional fuse panel is for the accessories I've installed on the bike.
I will explain about the fuse panel stuff in the next post.
(The one I have on my bike is a simple fuse block that uses ATM (mini) fuse. )

Trying to show the headlight + auxiliary light beam pattern in motion.
Photographing the beam pattern is hard enough. Taking video is even harder. For this video, I mounted Mobius under the turn signal stalk.

Lighting 01 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVWfIS6bGto&feature=youtu.be#)

Although it’s not really a good video quality,at least you can see that stock Bosh lamp isn’t actually that bad, after harness / relay mod and decent bulb.
You can see very sharp cut off in low beam. (and the low beam has nice, wide spread to the side. It casts a little bit more light on right hand side.)
You can also see high beam works pretty well. The yellow-ish light is coming from Cyclops lights.

Thanks for the video! I am quite impressed by your stock headlamp after the mod. And so nice of you to turn off the high beams mid turn haha.

BTW, I was rereading your first page and that headlight example on advrider is actually mines hahah. Sure wish there was a round option when I got my square ones. It was really hard to get the lights to fit under the front cowl, had to use alot of spacers stacked against each other which causes my left hand light to constantly droop lower and lower after a long day of riding. I need to find a longterm solution fix. Also, I routed my dimmer relay lines to the stock h4 relay and as a result the high beam tap switch doesn't work since it keeps both low and high beam on so the dimmer doesn't know to cut off.

Dash-cam footage from Monday night.
This is why you want good headlight(s).
Also, this is why you need to keep your speed down ( in the situation like this.)

Deer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWbPIoay72Q&feature=youtu.be#)

Still on part II and also reading Daniel Stern Lighting and other help from Beaver Power and such.
Is it possible to update/re-link the photos/pics on the thread.

Fantastic thread, should have been one of my first reads when I first realized how weak our harness is.

Thanks again to DMF

I will try. (Though, it's going to take some time. I first have to find my original photos.)
Sorry, Photobucket screwed this up. (It's all their fault.)

I used to use photobucket and then I realized if I kept using them, my old photos would not be linked unless I paid  [popcorn]

I wish I was more of an electrician, wonderful real world skill.

Did this mod the other day and finally got to try it out at night. Absolutely crazy how well lit the road is now versus the ~17 year old harness wiring. If you're planning on doing it without a kit, Omron G8HL-H71 relays are easy to fit inside the bucket.