Just about to pull the trigger on a complete 696 clutch from the US as my S2R 800 has spat the cush drive springs out - seems to be a common fault!
This will delete the cush drive for the clutch, keep the APTC slipper function (which I like) & use the same clutch plates as the S2R 800, right?
Any reason not to do this? Any other clutches fit that might be a better option?
Thanks in advance!
I bought the parts to do this, but ended up with a 750 non-APTC and it has been working well. Harder to pull, but easier to modulate.
Either solution is probably better than the stock system.
Make sure you get the primary drive gear too. Drive and driven needs to be a pair.
The clutch I'm looking at doesn't include the primary drive gear, does it need to be a matched pair from the same engine or just the same model bike?
People with more know how than me, say it's required from the same bike/parts bag.
I tried unpaired gears and had a terrible noise until fixed.
So, I think the answer is yes.
OK, thanks mate, appreciate the input. Found a 796 one for less the the 696, but have emailed both to see if they also have the primary, fingers crossed.
696 clutch & primary on the way, I'll update this thread with progress as I go.
Get the 696 primary gear nut (for the crank) too.
The S2R800 has a silly spanner nut, for which you'll need a special socket tool.....
Quote from: Speeddog on February 09, 2015, 07:32:26 PM
Get the 696 primary gear nut (for the crank) too.
The S2R800 has a silly spanner nut, for which you'll need a special socket tool.....
Done also & yes it did! Bloody stupid thing. Made a socket for it from a 27mm deep socket, nothing else for it on a sunday afternoon.
All done, but we had a huge storm here yesterday, so by the time I was done I would have needed a boat rather than a motorcycle. Everything seems fine, but I need to take it for a proper test ride to confirm.
Reading through some threads on here, I'm pretty sure the problem was caused by the previous owner not having any play in the clutch lever & cooking the clutch.
hi MV... i'm doing the same thing at the moment with my s2r
i just picked up a 696 basket on fleabay, complete with primary gear , i intend to use the original complete inner basket which i believe fits
so now the moment is approaching for me to rip it apart...
however i have a cpl of Q's you may be able to help me with;
1. did you have any trouble removing your primary gear ?
2. when i install the 696 outer basket, in place of the OEM s2r APTC one, does it need any shimming or do both baskets have the same overall dimensions aand swap over easily ?
2. does the original clutch activating push rod need some form of adjustment resulting from the swap or sshould it all work as befor because of the use of the original inner basket ?
i'm hoping to employ the original 32mm retaining nut, is there really an issue with that? i only just saw speeddog's comment and it's too late to get the nut from the 696 now :(
cheers
G'day Phil,
1. No, rattle gun fixed that easy ;)
2. I used the complete clutch from the the 696, it is also APTC, which I wanted to keep. Both inner baskets should be identical/compatible from memory.
2. (3.) No, it's all fine, no adjustment necessary. The hydraulic slave will take up any slack I guess.
No problems using the original nut, but it's a castle type nut, a pain unless you have or make the right socket.
cheers mv thanks for the quick response
you're in oz too ?
anyway re the 32mm nut, does it just need a deep socket ? i hadn't even thought about it until i saw your post earlier today
and typically my mate with the rattle gun has just moved back to NZ... aagh :(
good news about the rest though, although looks like the primary gear could be a pregnant dog to remove, hopefully i can get away with using the existing one and pray for a good meshing lol
cheers
phil
Hey mate, yeah, I'm in Melbourne, I presume you're ... In Sydney? [thumbsup]
It's a castle nut, smooth around the outside but with 4 cutouts that a castle nut socket fits in, if you google castle nut, it should clear it up. I made one from an appropriate sized socket.
Easy enough to take the cover off & swap the primary gear later if it's giving you trouble anyway.
ahh that's no problem then, thats simply to accommodate a split pin i guess. as if 190 Nm and red loctite isn't enough to keep ut on lol
i guess any socket that has enough depth is going to do the trick... fingers crossed
the ducati primary gear puller is a bargain at $US 160... cough, splutter !! what a joke, the least they could provufe for the money is a clutch that doesn't shit itself ! Grrrr bloody italians
seriously the list of must have tools could send you broke :(
The primary puller is quite expensive.
It's also quite a serious piece, and mine is undefeated in every competition. :)
for what it costs you'd expect it to work speed'... for something i'd only hope to use once it's almost making me think about taking it to a shop :(
Yours doesn't work?
Quote from: Speeddog on May 02, 2016, 03:55:20 PM
Yours doesn't work?
He doesn't have one.
He doesn't like the price.
My understanding of Duc primary gears is the only puller that works is the factory tool. If you don't like the price of the tool, and I can understand not wanting to spend the money for one use, pay someone that has it to remove it.
Complaining about the price is pretty useless.
@ducpainter... as i am sure you'd understand a lot of us enjoy the challenge of working on our own machinery, it's not only a challenge it's very satisfying and all part of the adventure, so it's annoying when things like this present obstacles.
has anyone replaced thr clutch basket without replacing the primary at the same time ?
Quote from: insydney on May 02, 2016, 04:15:44 PM
@ducpainter... as i am sure you'd understand a lot of us enjoy the challenge of working on our own machinery, it's not only a challenge it's very satisfying and all part of the adventure, so it's annoying when things like this present obstacles.
has anyone replaced thr clutch basket without replacing the primary at the same time ?
This isn't facebook, or instagram, or twitter.
You can quote anything I say without using acronyms or special characters.
Everything is expensive.Tools are expensive. Quality tools even more so. You can buy cheaper pullers...maybe even one that might work.
The factory tool is priced like a professional tool that will work every time.
If you really want to do your own work complaining about the price is amateurish...if not childish.
Sorry.
I don't recall having to use a puller on the primary gear... It was a while ago though... I have a cheap 2 jaw puller, there ius a possibility that I used that, but I really don't think I needed one.
This is a castle nut socket someone made, same as I did:
(http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww236/Michael_Vowles/index_zps0bnhhuqq.jpg) (http://s723.photobucket.com/user/Michael_Vowles/media/index_zps0bnhhuqq.jpg.html)
& this is the castle nut on the primary gear:
(http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww236/Michael_Vowles/s-l225_zpsvxsivfk5.jpg) (http://s723.photobucket.com/user/Michael_Vowles/media/s-l225_zpsvxsivfk5.jpg.html)
I'd say whip the cover off & see how you go. If you can't get the primary gear off, it will work, but it may be very noisy & possibly have some backlash.
cheers MV
that clears up a lot, i was assuming you were referring to the basket retaining nut, which totally threw me off track
having delved deeper today i discovered the part #'s of the the s2r primary gear 170.2.077.1a and the 696 primary gear 170.1.051.1a differ, suggesting they 'probably' have some physical difference. so my primary must come off to match the replacement 696 basket to do the job properly. i will also i buy a new 696 22mm retaining nut, which isn't a castle nut.
apparently in more recent bikes the primary sits on a spline, not a taper, making removal way easier
I swapped in a "normal" clutch from some 750 in the original engine on mine without swapping the primary. I don't remember if I knew it was recommended at the time, but I had no ill effects. I want to say I had 12k or so on that engine at the time and I rode it till I wrecked the layshaft at over 39k.
I'm pretty sure I posted on here somewhere...
that's interesting to hear, i am sure i saw something similar said on another forum, but i cant remember where.
guess the thing to do if the primary is a pregnant dog to shift is to try it and see how they mesh, with or without excessive slack and noise.
i did find an instructable for a DIY gear puller that may work if scaled up:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Simple-Gear-Puller/ (http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Simple-Gear-Puller/)
the clearance with the casing may be an issue, the ducati tool is circular
I looked for a bit to find this thread...and unlike others, I'm very happy to resurrect an old thread if the information is relevant.
Sadly, the original poster never tied off the ending. Does anyone know if the M750 clutch basket is a direct fit for the S2R 800?
I'm also looking to get rid of the failure potential of the damping springs. I'd much rather have it without the "damping" feature than with the possibility of failure issue.
Thank you for any relevant info you may have.
Yes, the 750 clutch basket including it's large "springless" driven primary gear fits. We are often adviced to change the "dual mass spring loaded" drive gear too. Also; in pairs with the driven gear.