I am just about to order new clutch plates for the Missus 696 .
I have done the dry stack many a time and watched the Ducatitech Youtube video for a 620
Can someone tell me if the 696 procedure is similar to the 620 ?
Also any experience with the cheaper Barrnet wet plates over the OEM or other expensive friction plates .
cheers
This is the APTC "slipper" type wet clutch, right? Are you sure it really needs new plates?
The APTC is a bit unique. Smaller diameter basket. Watch the three little springs - those are unique to this unit. The pic below shows the special tools (long screws) in place to hold things together and you can see one of the three little springs between the pressure plate and hub. Check the torque on the large nut while you're in there. There's also a special basket holder, but you could probably work around that. I only have experience with the OE plates.
BK
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2ywz71d.jpg)
Just replaced our S2R clutch basket with a 696 unit & new plates, it's pretty simple really. You can do it without the special holding tools, but if you can get them or suitable bolts that will work, it will make life easier. Everyone I asked recommended only the OEM plates, as the others are apparently rubbish, but they were about the same price anyway, so I went with genuine.
Make sure the outer most friction plate sits in the little notch, as per the photo below, there's a good write up of fitting the APTC clutch to an M750 or similar on here, search that one up for the specifics.
Thanks for your response.
Yeah I am getting a lot of feedback from mechanics around here to avoid the Barnett wet pack.
The local Ducati dealer here wants $413 for OEM though [puke] twice the price of ebay Barnett
I should of known better to even ask as I have had less than stella experience with them (DRY) in my bike.
The only thing that has kept me sane is to pull out the stack every other month and remove the glazing by abrading them to stop
the....... in an Aussie accent make the beast with two backsen orrible judder .
Actually the best result was to take to the steel plates with 80 grit , there is almost nothing left of them other than the make the beast with two backs ugly red dust
all over everything down wind of the clutch .
Quote from: BK_856er on March 13, 2015, 06:42:27 PM
This is the APTC "slipper" type wet clutch, right? Are you sure it really needs new plates?
The APTC is a bit unique. Smaller diameter basket. Watch the three little springs - those are unique to this unit. The pic below shows the special tools (long screws) in place to hold things together and you can see one of the three little springs between the pressure plate and hub. Check the torque on the large nut while you're in there. There's also a special basket holder, but you could probably work around that. I only have experience with the OE plates.
BK
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2ywz71d.jpg)
What is the correct torque for that big nut.
cheers
See tutorials section for "wet clutch securing nut" and the long thread linked in the first post. If you remove the cover, at least check the big nut for tightness. If you need to re-torque it, prep it carefully.
BTW, are you sure you NEED new plates? Wrong oil, aftermarket lever, improperly adjusted stock lever, etc. can all cause slippage in this finicky APTC clutch.
BK
Yeah thanks BK I forgot about that thread [thumbsup]
Nothing has changed on the bike in regards to levers etc it did have an oil change but that was a while ago using full Synth .
I've had good luck curing slipping APTC clutches with shimming the springs.
12mm ID, 18mm OD, I've shimmed as much as 2mm total, but that was after carefully measuring all parts.
I'd say 1.5mm is a more generally safe number.
I super-glue them to the washer, that way they stay put long enough to get the washer down to the post.
This does modify the 'slipper' threshold on overrun, just so you know.
Barnett may have improved their product from what I bought in '09.
That set dragged horribly, finding neutral at a stop was totally impossible.
My very game customer gave them a try, but they didn't improve with use.
I've still got that pack, if you were local I'd offer it for free to try, perhaps with OEM steels it may work.
I'd feel bad shipping it to Oz, as I don't consider it worth even the postage.