I'm learning that there's not much info floating around on the 1100 EVO Marzocchi forks. So I'm opening a specific thread in case others try to get some spring replacements in the future. I'll post pictures later to supplement
Lesson Learned #1 (Procurement)
1) Racetech uses canned springs for their bikes. The lengths are not custom to your specific make and model. In the case of the 1100 EVO, the racetech spring that works for the 1100 evo are shorter and need a larger preload spacer to make up the gap.
The problem is the default springs do not come with these spacers. I received the package yesterday from racetech and it just had random washers to utilize as spacers. This is not enough. Apparently racetech knows about this but their shipping orders aren't coordinated with the information they glean from their R&D / Tech side.
MAKE SURE YOU SPECIFICALLY ASK RACETECH to provide a spacers with their kit. I'll provide a model number once I have the spacers delivered. Recetech is stepping up and providing these free which is what I expect. You shouldnt sell a product specifically labeled for the bike if its not going to work without modifications. So far they have been very accommodating.
If however you guys start getting charged for the extra parts, Traxxion provides a full spring assembly with spacers, etc and is drop in ready for the same end price. If I had known this earlier I probably would have gone with them. I will have to field cut the racetech spacers to size.
More info once these parts arrive and I get into the actual disassembly.
UPDATE 03/27/15
1) The EVO shop manual calls for 480cc of fluid and 104mm from top. This is incorrect. The owners manual calls for 445cc of fluid. Putting 445cc in resulted in a closer match to 104mm from top. If you went with 480cc the Marzocchi forks would be at around 95mm from top. I extracted the old oil and measured it from each leg. Both were a little less than 450. I would say that the 104mm from top is accurate and the 445cc is about right for each fork if you wanted to match the stock settings. As mentioned you can always go lower on the oil based on the custom feel you want from your suspension.
2) I'm used to the old showa suspensions where the rebound needle is part of the fork cap. In this case the rebound adjuster is permanently attached to the damper rod. When you remove the fork cap, the rebound adjuster stays in place.
3) The racetech springs are wider than the stock spring. The stock sits inside the fork cap whereas the racetech sits outside. Use a racetech provided washer between the spring and the fork cap for protection Account for this in your preload spacer design since you are adding length.
4) It may not look like it but the racetech springs are slightly tapered. One side is 36mm and the other is 38mm. Make sure you install the wider one down into the tube for additional stability of the spring.
5) Racetech springs are significantly shorter in comparison to the stock. On the order of 2 inches. Make sure you put both springs next to each other and make new spacers to fit the system accordingly.
6) Something to note. The fork, when fully compressed, has 8mm of the tube still visible at the bottom. When setting preload and evaluating your how travel you are using while riding. Take this 8mm into account and subtract as necessary.
Pics:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7624/16770669547_9234fe7b4b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxY4LX)
Difference in length between stock spring and racetech spring.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7650/16790336528_f2ef7a97c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rzGS5Q)
New spacer to make up the difference. Please note that because the spring does not sit inside the preload adjuster due to the racetech spring being wider than the stock, the length will need to be adjusted to account this discrepancy. You'll notice the washers are included in this measurement.
Also the spring will need a washer on both side to prevent galling of the spacer and the preload adjuster.
Total length calculated to be 112 mm. Its important to get close to this value but its more important to be accurate between both spacers than to be accurate on the spacer length. Stick to around +/- 2 mm of 112 and you'll be fine. The preload adjuster will make up the difference.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8710/16977121391_a22717f6f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rSdbHv)
Use a tubing cutter to accurately cut the spacers. Use some 200 grit sandpaper to wet sand, even out and remove the burrs.
Congratulations, or maybe not, for being the first to tackle and document this procedure. [clap]
I was about to start on mine, but am now waiting to see what you learn from doing yours. Pics would be nice, but understand stopping and photographing can be a PIA.
I've been using a spring compressor with an alignment pin for Showa and Kayaba leg bottoms. Did you need a compressor or was it convenient enough to manhandle without one?
Havent started. I had to make a home made spring compressor for the showa because the preload spacer sat above the spring. From the pictures in the workshop manual, thats not the case with the marzocchi. The manual doesnt show a tool required.
Will know more this weekend.
I used PVC cut to the needed length when I installed the shorter Hypepro springs in my 750's Marzoochi forks. Granted mine are older and probably more simple than the current Marzoochis, but it worked fine. I've got around 20,000 miles on the PVC spacers and everything seems to be fine.
JM
i use 32 mm x 1.6 mm aluminium tubing for spacers in the showa, as you can machine the nylon end pieces to fit it easily. it has a very low volume, esp compared to any pvc tube option. but there's not really a pvc tubing that i've found that's large enough for the 43mm forks.
maybe a larger dia aluminium tube and a washer at each end. you don't want it moving around, which is why the showa nylon end pieces are nice.
For the 43 mm Showas, if I have to change springs and don't have some useful Showa leftovers, I use the 240 mm long Öhlins springs for everything, available in 0.5 N/mm steps from 7.5 N/mm to 11 N/mm (see below).
For spacers, I use the stock top spacers and make up any difference in length (the Öhlins springs beeing shorter than all others, i think) with a spacer below the spring, as in the Duc Showa SBK forks; I also use the large washer from the Showa forks on top of the bottom spacer. For the bottom spacer, I use alu tubing about the same dimensions as Brad mentioned.
Oil level is tricky, since submerged components make a huge difference, and can even cause hydraulic lock-up (been there, done that ....). In most forks, the bottom spacer + Öhlins spring will be below the oil with sensible oil volume; for the Showa I think you need at least 90 mm of air above the oil on a fully compressed fork with bottom spacer and Öhlins 240 mm springs. With less, check carefully.
Öhlins part Numbers as follows:
4745-75, 7.5 N/mm (marking -75).
4745-80, 8.0 N/mm (marking -80).
4745-85, 8.5 N/mm (marking -85).
4745-90, 9.0 N/mm (marking -90).
4745-95, 9.5 N/mm (marking -95).
4745-10, 10.0 N/mm (marking -10).
4745-05, 10.5 N/mm (marking -05).
4745-11, 11.0 N/mm (marking -11
They aren't showas but I will keep it in mind for the marzocchi
I have a Marzocci spring (fram a M1100 EVO) in the garage, I could check dimensions. I'm pretty sure they are close diameter-wise.
Original post updated so everything is in one place. I'll post pics later today.
Pics Added. Cant think of anything else to put in.. Hopes this helps Evo Owners in the future.
[clap]
Good job! Thanks for sharing.