So I scored big time! I picked up a 1999 Ducati Monster M750 Dark for $400!
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150327_130951.jpg)
When I went to pick it up, it had a full battery charge, but nothing... no lights.. no horn... no crank...
I took it home and pulled the battery and tested it. 100% charge. 12.9V.
So, I started jimmying around the cables and the headlights buzzed on for a sec. Holy shit!
I turned the terminal over and there was a ton of corrossion. A little degreaser and a wire brush, and she started cranking!!!
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150327_133732.jpg)
Here she is next to my 2003 KTM 625 SXC.
She was cranking and cranking, but would not start, so I started tearing her down.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150329_131807.jpg)
The guy I bought it from bought a carb rebuilt kit. He replaced most of the components.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150329_121538.jpg)
I put new springs in it, and titanium needles.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150329_121531.jpg)
Put her all back together and still won't start D:
I was getting backfires and flames shooting out of the right exhaust.
Did a quick search on this forum and BAM!
Someone had the same problem, and they had the spark plug cables switched.
I pulled them off, switched them around and BOOYAKASHA!!!!
SHE STARTED!!!!!
Now, there are a few issues I need to fix before I can get her on the road.
The First:
The oil pressure sensor was cross-threaded and had all of the threads on the cover stripped out.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150328_220038.jpg)
I ordered a M10 x 1.0 Helicoil kit from Amazon along with a 13/32" drill bit.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51fCyFlVwFL.jpg)
It's going to be here on Wednesday, so I'll post some pictures when I do that.. Never done it before. pretty excited. haha.
Second issue:
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150328_220020.jpg)
Bad news. This is the fuel level sensor. I haven't really looked into repairing this yet.
Anyone have any input on the way to do this?
I'm not terribly concerned about it, because it starts without it, but after I get the major issues fixed, I want to restore this to as near perfect condition as I can.
Third issue:
Horn/Blinkers/Neutral Indicator Light/ most of the electrical components don't work.
I haven't checked if the speedo does, because she is gushing oil out of Issue #1.
I'll be working on this after Wednesday when I get to go on my first test ride.
Grease the tap for the helicoil to keep shavings from entering the oil passages. Crank the motor after to flush any that do get in.
Fuel level sensors are a known problem on Ducs. They're expensive. Most just use the odometer to gauge when to fill up.
Check the fuses?
My plan was to remove the entire cover. That would eliminate the possibility of shavings getting into the engine, as I imagine that is a key area of oil movement.
I checked the fuses with a gauge. They all buzzed green.
(http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/100427-39-j.jpg)
I did notice that all of the 7.5 Amp fuse slots had 10 Amp fuses in them, so I'll get that fixed.
I was thinking about buying a generic electric connector and cutting the OEM and soddering it in to get the fuel indicator sensor working.
(http://www.stefanv.com/quiet/2000-01/photo6.jpg)
Would that work?
Most likely the wires are cut because the light was on all the time.
You still need to make sure you get all the shavings out of that passageway cover on or off.
So the fuses themselves are OK. Do you have voltage at the fuse panel? Voltmeter would tell.
Speedo is mechanical. Your connector fix will be fine, but as duckpainter said, the sensor may not be. Either way, always go by the trip meter. The wiring diagram for an '01 750 found here http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do (http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do) at the back of the owner's manual should help. Pretty close, notable differences being no safety relay or tach on your bike. Get yourself a cheap digital multimeter. Let us know what you are getting going into the fuse box, get the heliCoil in and let us know if the bike starts.
And congrats! That exhaust is worth $400!
Update
So, I got the Helicoil kit in the mail today and got to work right when I got home.
First, drained the oil.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_174747.jpg)
You can see the threads were wasted inside there
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_175259.jpg)
I carefully drilled it out with a 13/32" drill bit
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_175603.jpg)
Not bad
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_175925.jpg)
Most important part is getting all of the debris out. I blew it out after every step
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_180148.jpg)
You can't see it, but I threw some locktite in there. It turned out pretty nice.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_181721.jpg)
I got her started and took her around the block for the first time [thumbsup]
When I pulled into the garage, I looked down and saw oil leaking from right here.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/5fd683bd-6568-4844-aad4-d4d855074fb6.jpg)
What the hell is going on?
Is the sensor busted? It's leaking from the top of the sensor.
I'm thinking about just throwing a bolt in there to ride around with. Is that sensor a vital piece in the operation of the engine?
I have another issue with the bike.
It will not idle. If I keep the throttle pulled back just a hair it is fine, but if I let go of the throttle it will stall out.
I'm thinking the easiest fix would be to adjust the idle screw on my carb.
Maybe I'll pull the airbox tonight and get that done.
Thoughts?
Yes, you need to replace the sensor. Oh my, the drain plug is the big one with the copper washer, not the one you removed. The fastener above the plug you removed ain't right. It is supposed to be a 14mm. allen, and under it another 14mm. allen with a screen attached to it.
As far as your idle goes, there can be many causes. Could be as simple as a simple tweak of the idle speed screw or throttle synch, or more serious problems, we cannot tell over the interwebs. This may help you with carb adjusting http://ducatisuite.com/carbsynch.html (http://ducatisuite.com/carbsynch.html) You should read the whole Ducati Suite. Since you don''t know the history of the bike and quality of the PO's work are...ummm...suspect, new timing belts and a valve clearance check are in order and a check up by a good professional might not be a bad idea.
His oil screen could be a hex head. The one on my '96 900 is a 21mm and one piece.
There are two screws one is for idle one is for synch. You reach up from underneath to get at them. Don't bother taking the airbox off. The ducatisuite page will tell you how to identify which is which.
Yep, old 900s were one piece screen. I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure post Pantah 600 and 750s had seperate cap and screen. IMO, worth taking a look.
IamnotJim, do you have a tach? Too high an idle speed will cause problems.
I could be wrong too.
To adjust the idle you'll need just the right length screwdriver. You access the idle speed screw from an angle up under the airbox which has a cutaway to guide you. Use a strong flashlight and lay next to the bike angling the screwdriver up. Watch out for the hot exhaust pipe! You may have to undo the oil cooler bolts that hold it to the valve cover and let it hang out of the way.
The oil pressure switch can leak from the top if it's had a knock.
What a bargain at $400.
I agree with having the bike checked over by a Ducati specialist. Even if you do the work yourself, they will be able to identify any areas that need attention.
Thanks for all of the info.
I'll buy a vacuum gauge on my way home from work this afternoon and do a carb synch on her.
I knew that was the wrong oil drain plug, but I wasn't doing a full oil change, only emptying her, filtering the oil, and putting it back in.
It worked for my purposes.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_175211.jpg)
I do not have a tach on the bike, so I'll just have to play it by ear.
Where can I find that sensor online? Anyone know a good source *preferably with fast shipping* ;D
Quote from: IamnotJim on April 02, 2015, 06:55:40 AM
Thanks for all of the info.
I'll buy a vacuum gauge on my way home from work this afternoon and do a carb synch on her.
I knew that was the wrong oil drain plug, but I wasn't doing a full oil change, only emptying her, filtering the oil, and putting it back in.
It worked for my purposes.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150401_175211.jpg)
I do not have a tach on the bike, so I'll just have to play it by ear.
Where can I find that sensor online? Anyone know a good source *preferably with fast shipping* ;D
Dunno how far from a dealer you are but, get the OEM one.....
I'll preface first with I have not worked with carbs that much but.......
Are you sure a vaccum gauge works for a carb sync? I've always thought those bounce around too much to give you a good measurement?
Dont you need something like a manometer?
Good call. I just called a rental/repair shop right next to my shop, and they have a few they pulled off of bikes. He's giving me one for $20. SCORE!!
I always thought that a manometer was a vacuum gauge....
Nope. Manometer are long, usually u-tubes. Gauges are round with a needle.
I don't get why it's so detrimental to not have that sensor operational. The only time I ever saw the light come on on my OE dash was when it died. I've seen pics from a long time ago somebody put a pressure gauge or a thermometer on there. Or was that in the fill hole ?
a manometer uses a U (of some sort) shaped column of liquid to measure a pressure differential. a gauge has a coiled tube that expands and contracts with pressure inside it, moving a needle. the manometer is more responsive in this instance and generally seems to work better.
you don't really need an oil pressure switch. if it loses pressure it's rooted and you can't do anything about it unless you stop straight away, which no one ever does. and generally by the time you see the light it's over anyway.
Matched and damped vacuum gauges will work, but not the ideal set up. I would suggest googling cylinder balancing tools. Maybe something like this
http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=2146 (http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=2146)
or
http://stuccu.com/s/Motion+Pro+Syncpro?tr=related_search (http://stuccu.com/s/Motion+Pro+Syncpro?tr=related_search)
or
http://www.650ccnd.com/mano.htm (http://www.650ccnd.com/mano.htm)
I synched my 750 with a vacuum gauge. It's not the best, but it will tell if something is way off. They do bounce around, but if you watch them for a minute, you'll should see them bounce between the same readings if they are in synch.
JM
Manometers are quite simple to fab using cheap materials, as explained in howie's last link. Comparative readings, not precision, is the objective.
The ones I have built used ATF fluid. I have used MIG welding head wire nozzles, if that is what they are called, as snubbers for the fluid. Maybe they could also be used on a vacuum gauge setup to tame the needle?
I went and picked up the oil pressure sensor yesterday.
It was a local place and the guy had a spare 750 engine in the back, so he pulled it off and sold it to me for $20.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150402_181157.jpg)
He was a really cool guy. The shop's name is Irish Mike's. I would HIGHLY recommend his shop to anyone who lives in Las Vegas, Nevada. PM me if you need more details on his shop.
Here is the old defective sensor next to the new one. He threw in an aluminum crush washer ilo the copper one, but it ended up being too big so I used the copper washer.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150402_181425.jpg)
I put it on and started her up. She is running dryer than an 90 year old granny's P#^$!! I think I might name her Mildred.
I adjusted the idle screw on the carb and she is running sooooo sweet!
I still have a few minor issues.
First: The blinkers are working, but they don't blink.
When I click them on, they stay a solid yellow color. Anyone have a fix for this?
Second: The shifter is binding up on the spring for the kickstand.
When I downshift, it will get stuck on the spring and I'll have to kick it up with my toe.
Here are some pics.
Does anyone have any pics of what it is supposed to look like?
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150402_214916.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd106/wallpapereater/20150402_214947.jpg)
No blink is probably the flasher, one of the relays under the seat, either 2 prong or 3. Can be purchased at any parts store. Shit lever looks bent to me. If you remove it and bend back carefully you might get lucky.
First of all, I'm very jealous that you found an M750 for $400. Looks like a fun project. Shift lever also looks bent to me. Your kickstand/spring also doesn't look OEM to me. I just walked outside and snapped a picture of my shift lever from above with the kickstand up for reference (2000 M750).
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0By5dKyi_dJR2bVhVd2lJN201VTA)
Also, regarding the carb sync, a home made manometer with ATF, as described by others works great. Higher sensitivity than a mercury manometer, not to mention much cheaper. I took quick videos of mine before/after a carb sync with that method. You can hopefully hear how the bike runs more smoothly with the better sync, although it wasn't terrible to start with.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcZRSFAIY14 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcZRSFAIY14)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fcahij8dwD8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fcahij8dwD8)
When I had the stock carbs I used a set of dial pressure gauges for the carbs. The trick is to use the little valve that usually comes with them and you just crack them a bit. This reduces the bouncing and you can get a better look at the needles.
I would just replace the whole side stand. Probably a few on eBay.
gear levers catch on the round style side stands when they've been bent in. common issue. bend the lever out gently, otherwise it'll crack and then break.