Ducati Monster Forum

Ducabike Rearsets on an older monster (2005 620). There's no way the stock brake hose is going to reach to where the brake fluid reservoir was orginally bolted in. What do most people do here? Put on a longer hose or mount the reservoir elsewhere?

It fits . . . No promises but will try to find pic of my bike . . .
gotta fiddle with it a little

Mine doesnt seem to reach at all. Never thought Id ask a guy this but.. Whats the length of your hose?

Jajajajajaja . . .

It is the OEM hose . . . I have only replaced the fronts

good time to replace the hose, esp if its the oem hose.

I used Tygon Tubing from Kurvey Girl(odd name, I know)when I installed the ducabikes rearsets on my M695


https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=106&osCsid=34k5rhlt8u9787nbh4s2mfma71 (https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=106&osCsid=34k5rhlt8u9787nbh4s2mfma71)

I think motowheels has it also

Why do you say this? Is there an issue with the OEM hose?

I'm actually thinking of replacing the rear brake reservoir. Does size matter? (no pun intended)

not my bike, 
https://flic.kr/p/rXPnpE

I add the same problem ...but whit the rizoma rearsets

 I've use the original  brake hose... I moved it to the side ... and the brake fluid redervoir is the same size , I made a bracket for it ...

Here's a pic....if it helps  [popcorn]

(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_110513_zpsbikid18n.jpg)

DucatiGirl100 which size Rizoma did you get?

The fluid reservoir was the small one  [thumbsup]

As noted, go with Tygon if yoy want some new hose

Here are 2 pics of mine, sure, it has a tygon hose, but, oem length . . .

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7648/17057337268_716c503ebb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rZij6S)Ducabike_Reservoir
[url=https://flic.kr/p/seAALA](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7657/17219141186_f3bbfb2a86_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rZij6S)Ducabike_Reservoir 2 (https://flic.kr/p/seAALA)

Thanks for the pics! Where do you put the sensor for the brake light?

the supplied pressure switch

what do you mean by supplied? Mine didnt come with a pressure switch. Was it supposed to?

My rearset kit came with it . . .

You need one of these...

http://www.ducabike.com/isc01-idro-stop-corto.html (http://www.ducabike.com/isc01-idro-stop-corto.html)
(http://www.ducabike.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/img0452d.jpg)

On my 695. Connects through the brake line. Looking through my build thread, my kit came with it also.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/775022_10151448782090348_330680972_o.jpg)

My RIZOMA rearsets came with a provision for mounting the OE switch. I believe you'll need a banjo pressure switch for the DB rearsets.

Oh and McMaster-Carr is the best place to buy Tygon hose, period. Or figure out how much you need and I'll put a piece in the mail for ya no charge, I have extra.  [thumbsup]

Well after fitting these I was a bit surprised at how much higher they put your feet I know it's just a few inches but it's very noticable. Plus I know the brake pump is supposed to push the lever back out even without the spring on the foot brake lever but mine did not it was stuck in there unless I used my foot to push it back down. So my pads were stuck rubbing on the rotors. Is this cause I didnt bleed the brakes after installing these? I also found my shiftings to have issues not sure if the ends of the shifting rod need to be adjusted for length. Did anyone else encounter any of this. Do you get used to that riding position I found it a bit uncomfortable with my knees up that high.
I know some people are very happy with these but so far.. not me.

I have a set of DB (knock off from the UK) rear sets. The height is something to get used to but I went into it with the understanding that these were "racier" than stock. But I dont do much distance riding so its ok. My brake pedal does come back up from the pressure, not sure why yours wont. Perhaps the little drums/pistons on your caliper needs cleaning? Air in the lines?
And as for the pressure switch you can find them for cheap on Amazon. I got one with a 90 degree bend for like $10 or $12.
http://www.amazon.com/Yiding-Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Pressure-Switch/dp/B00BVYDYQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430244157&sr=8-5&keywords=banjo+pressure+switch (http://www.amazon.com/Yiding-Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Pressure-Switch/dp/B00BVYDYQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430244157&sr=8-5&keywords=banjo+pressure+switch)
Then all you gotta do is splice in the wires with your connector of choice or hard line it.

Yeah the brake pedal is definitely not coming back up for that matter even when I push it back up by hand it seems like there's drag on it. I tried loosening the bolt that clamps the lever and foot peg in place and loosened the peg a bit to try and give it space and I even squirted a little WD40 in there to see if it was friction preventing it from coming out. I'm really confused here. I could try seeing if there's air in the brake lines by bleeding a little bit of fluid if that's suspect. If you push your pedal down and then up by hand is it sluggish. Should it come back up freely and easily or should there be a little drag on it so the piston is actually forcing it back up?

bleed the brake . . .pedal shlould and will come up on its own . . .

place catch tank higher than rear brake master so that air gets to it

Catch tank?

the container you use to catch the brake fluid coming out of caliper

If the alignment of the shaft and clevis rod isn't just right, there will be significant drag. I went through this when I reassembled my rearsets. I'd check to be sure there isn't pressure on the shaft causing it to stick before re-bleeding. It should function properly with no fluid in the system, let alone one that isn't properly bled.

So I disassembled and reassembled the mounting to ensure the clevis was moving freely. Then I bled the brakes repeatedly. Did get a lot of tiny bubbles and a couple big ones but still no pressure to return my brake pedal. I did have to add more brake fluid during the bleeding process as that rear reservoir is so small just a few times bleeding and it's almost at Min. When I'm adding more fluid am i introducing more air into the lines when I open up the reservoir to add more Fluid? Really stuck here. Do I add more fluid and continue to bleed it?  When I loosen the bleeder valve the clevis sinks easily deep in to the rear brake pump. But after I tighten the bleeder valve and test still no push back from the pump. The brake lever just stays down. I have to manually push it back up. Frustrating.

Replenishing the reservoir does not introduce air into the system.

Almost every rear caliper I have bled needed to be removed from the carrier and held in various positions to allow the entrapped air to do what the bubbles want to do naturally......flow upwards.

Once you get the piston operating correctly you will need to ensure that the rod is adjusted to allow some free play and not block the return port. Otherwise your next ride could be shorter than planned.

Don't allow yourself to become frustrated. Remember, you have to be smarter than the machine.  ;)

Brake caliper on the bottom or top?  Bleeder needs to be the high point or air will be trapped.  This gives you two choices; remove caliper, place a piece of metal or wood about the thickness of your rotor between the pads, hold caliper so bleeder is up and bleed or turn bike upside down.  Also make sure you have sufficient free play at the pedal, about 2mm. unless Ducabike says otherwise.  Err on the side of too much.  You may want to figure out a way to get a return spring in there.

Howie, caliper on top . .

Old and (not so) Dumb is correct. Having been through that before, I bled the whole system on my bench before installing it. Worked a treat.

I still have my doubts this is what's causing your issue, but smarter ppl than me are here to help. I just know I had the whole setup with my pedal and clevis rod functioning beautifully before I'd even installed the brake, fluid, and bled. If you stand there with the master cylinder in your hand, pressing the rod in, it should be smoothly backing out on it's own. Just seems like you must have some friction/interference going on with your rearsets install. It doesn't take much at all, a mm off will do it.

I've been riding it using only the front brake to see how they feel and I'm really surprised at how different the riding position feels given the pegs are just a couple inches higher. Knees feel way up on the tank and a strain on my lower back I havent felt before. I'm assuming the consensus is you'll get used to it? This may all be a moot point if I cant get with the riding position.

Same situation here. They are quite a bit higher. I put clip ons on mine which helped with the back pain. My rearsets also didnt come with a supplied pressure switch. What did you end up doing for that? I'm going to get the amazon one the other feller suggested.

I'm taking them off & putting the stock rearsets back on. They look great but I liked riding my bike much more before. It felt so much more comfortable and natural. These feel like my knees are up above the tank.  Plus I still didn't get the brake to work properly. So mine will be for sale soon.

So i just put on these rearsets. The old pressure switch is still hanging there but now my brake light wont come on when i hit the front brake. I tried holding the button on the pressure switch but still no luck. I know it worked before i installed these.