So I have the adjustable Showas and was considering taking them in to a well known shop near where I live. So I called and priced it. Based on my weight they recommended going with the .9kg springs. They gave me a couple quotes, one with new springs and one with new springs and valves. But the difference was over $300 (~$390 vs ~$750).
Will valves really make that much of a difference?
All the difference in the world.
Quote from: NAKID on June 24, 2015, 10:07:52 AM
So I have the adjustable Showas and was considering taking them in to a well known shop near where I live. So I called and priced it. Based on my weight they recommended going with the .9kg springs. They gave me a couple quotes, one with new springs and one with new springs and valves. But the difference was over $300 (~$390 vs ~$750).
Will valves really make that much of a difference?
Do it...you won't be sorry.
Get the valves. Compliant suspension is a good thing.
Quote from: howie on June 24, 2015, 01:27:12 PM
Get the valves. Compliant suspension is a good thing.
Well, if I go that route, what should I do about the rear? Can I leave it or will it affect it more since the front will be fully set up?
Quote from: NAKID on June 24, 2015, 01:54:35 PM
Well, if I go that route, what should I do about the rear? Can I leave it or will it affect it more since the front will be fully set up?
My opinion is that as long as you're sprung correctly you'll be OK.
The damping might not be optimum, but as long as you're not on a hobby horse...
The guys doing your forks should be able to check sag in the back, or recommend a spring.
Yeah, they said the stock spring was a .62kg and that at 170 with no gear I should be on a .9kg. I don't know how much the stock rear spring is rated for...
I would not spend for more than a spring on the OEM rear. The shock works better than most people think, problem is the chrome on the shock rod wears so you are better off spending the money on aftermarket.
How much do you weigh? Depending on how you ride, a revalve may or may not make sense.
The spring is only there to give you the correct sag numbers, the valving is what determines the plushness or the firmness of the suspension as you roll over the bumps. Stock is decent, but if you dont have particularly high needs (high speed riding, or rough roads) then i would say save the money if its tight.
if you have the dough to spare, you wont be sorry that you did it.
If you are going with a race tech set up, the parts list for gold valves is about $180 i think, so at 120 for labor, it isnt too bad of a deal (you will still get charged oil and seals which is another $50-80 bucks).
Likely you will see a significant difference by springs and oil alone.
Quote from: He Man on June 25, 2015, 08:01:09 AM
How much do you weigh? Depending on how you ride, a revalve may or may not make sense.
The spring is only there to give you the correct sag numbers, the valving is what determines the plushness or the firmness of the suspension as you roll over the bumps. Stock is decent, but if you dont have particularly high needs (high speed riding, or rough roads) then i would say save the money if its tight.
if you have the dough to spare, you wont be sorry that you did it.
If you are going with a race tech set up, the parts list for gold valves is about $180 i think, so at 120 for labor, it isnt too bad of a deal (you will still get charged oil and seals which is another $50-80 bucks).
Likely you will see a significant difference by springs and oil alone.
170 without gear, always ride with full leather gear 99/100 with a backpack. I commute to work about 35 miles each way over shitty bumpy freeways, then I get to some nice toll roads where I can play a little.
The numbers I quoted were from Racetech, they're about 5 miles away from me.
If you have the dough to spare i would revalve. Springs and new fork fluid alone will go a long way given the fork fluid is probably the consistency of water right now if you've never changed the fluid..ever. Stay away from the maxima stuff, go straight to Race Tech fluid. Its pricey but lasts A LOT longer. The maxima fluid I use goes to shit in about 30 hours in offroad racing. Granted street isnt anywhere near as tough, but for the extra dough, you can rest assure it doenst shear into water within a few months.
The racetech setup includes a new piston and requires drilling of your cartridge to allow for more fluid. Result is a much more predictable and fluid action.
I run 0.9kg/mm springs with the racetech gold valve setup @145lbs sans gear.
He Man is correct about oil and springs going a long way, but do the valves now pay labor once, do the valves later, pay labor twice.
Quote from: howie on June 26, 2015, 08:24:08 PM
He Man is correct about oil and springs going a long way, but do the valves now pay labor once, do the valves later, pay labor twice.
Good Point...
FYI - not very hard to do springs and oil.
http://kuixihe.com/node/1 (http://kuixihe.com/node/1)