So, I just had the valves serviced a couple weeks ago, oil changed, belts replaced, dyno tuned. Last night while riding home, I noticed the bike felt under powered. I toggled to the oil temp and noticed that it was slightly above normal operating temp for the time (about 250, normally should have been about 220). Next thing I know, it starts bucking a bit like I lost power then got it back, the oil pressure light starts flickering and the top of the motor (?) starts getting loud, as in mechanical noise. I pull in the clutch and it dies. I coasted to a stop on the shoulder and the temp had risen to about 275.
Had my wife come pick me up, loaded the bike in the back of the truck. Dropped it off at the shop that did the work this morning.
What can I expect???
Sounds like it ate a rod bearing.
I started it up at the shop this morning. No oil pressure light, was a bit louder than normal, then noticeable mechanical noise when it was revved.
The switch for the oil pressure light opens at quite a low pressure, 3-4 psi IIRC.
Much easier to get that pressure with cold oil.
Well, the verdict is in. And not surprisingly, Nick was right. Ate a rod bearing.
Now, do I:
1. Rebuild
2. Motor swap
3. Part it and buy another
:'(
How many miles on what you've got?
Do you like it how it is, other than the hurt motor?
Quote from: NAKID on September 12, 2015, 02:40:47 PM
Well, the verdict is in. And not surprisingly, Nick was right. Ate a rod bearing.
Now, do I:
1. Rebuild
2. Motor swap
3. Part it and buy another
:'(
I'm in the same basic boat with my 996 track bike. It ate a main.
Not sure what to do either, but I'll most likely have the vet rebuild it.
Quote from: Speeddog on September 12, 2015, 02:45:48 PM
How many miles on what you've got?
Do you like it how it is, other than the hurt motor?
39k miles. I do really like it. Just trying to be economical and realistic too. Wasn't exactly ready for a huge expense, especially after I just dropped the money on the service and dyno tune.
DS1k engines seem to be going for $1.5k and up.
That leaves a lot of room for a rebuild to be more economical.
Chances are good you'll need to replace the crank.
For a 2-valver, rebuild is a bit more with the newer motors, due to the head gaskets.
The only part of that service you've lost is the oil and filter.
Quote from: Speeddog on September 12, 2015, 03:40:03 PM
DS1k engines seem to be going for $1.5k and up.
That leaves a lot of room for a rebuild to be more economical.
Chances are good you'll need to replace the crank.
For a 2-valver, rebuild is a bit more with the newer motors, due to the head gaskets.
The only part of that service you've lost is the oil and filter.
I get that I've only lost the oil part of the service. It's just that I wasn't expecting another big expense after the last.
Sorry to hear.
Thats three 1000 motors here doing the bottom end, Howies, Pepe's mate and now yours. Probably total coincidence, but would be good to know the year/month of mfr of each one.
If you rebuild. I have some extra 1000ds engine parts and new head gaskets lying around that I won't be using.
In the case of my bike, noise that I would not have heard with a closed clutch cover. Once you hear it, you gotta fix it.The noisy bearings were transmission bearings.
Here's a picture of the drain plug...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p513/NAKID1/5FDF964D-99C5-4FD6-834F-CFC91BD1F690_zpsln6aotkr.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/NAKID1/media/5FDF964D-99C5-4FD6-834F-CFC91BD1F690_zpsln6aotkr.jpg.html)
Quote from: NAKID on September 14, 2015, 11:35:48 AM
Here's a picture of the drain plug...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p513/NAKID1/5FDF964D-99C5-4FD6-834F-CFC91BD1F690_zpsln6aotkr.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/NAKID1/media/5FDF964D-99C5-4FD6-834F-CFC91BD1F690_zpsln6aotkr.jpg.html)
That's not babbit metal
Huh?
Last I knew...
babbit metal, the stuff they make rod bearings out of, isn't magnetic.
I suppose it could be rod or crank material.
Quote from: ducpainter on September 14, 2015, 12:11:33 PM
Last I knew...
babbit metal, the stuff they make rod bearings out of, isn't magnetic.
I suppose it could be rod or crank material.
Oh, never heard the term before.
I imagine there's probably a bit of rod and crank material on it. I wasn't there when they drained it, but that has nothing to do with the service they performed.
So, given the quote for the rebuild and the motor swap, I think it's time for a new bike :-[
Not sure just how I'm going to handle it yet, but I'll likely be parting it out...
Hey Nakid, So sorry to hear about this! Really sux - but hey, it's better to have a bike go this way than an accident for example ... so I guess there are even worse things.
Question: sorry to be daft, but what exactly happened? What does "ate a bearing" really mean? Did the previous service done on the bike have anything to do with it? (I gather not, but just checking.) And lastly, were there any symptoms leading up this kind of catastrophic failure?
If 2 other bikes have gone this way just on this forum, it's a bit of head scratcher.
Anyways, all the best down the road!
Cheers!
Quote from: czen on September 29, 2015, 04:03:58 AM
Hey Nakid, So sorry to hear about this! Really sux - but hey, it's better to have a bike go this way than an accident for example ... so I guess there are even worse things.
Question: sorry to be daft, but what exactly happened? What does "ate a bearing" really mean? Did the previous service done on the bike have anything to do with it? (I gather not, but just checking.) And lastly, were there any symptoms leading up this kind of catastrophic failure?
If 2 other bikes have gone this way just on this forum, it's a bit of head scratcher.
Anyways, all the best down the road!
Cheers!
Definitely better than going down, definitely.
No symptoms prior, recent service was on the valves, so no tie in there.
Ate a bearing just means that the bearing seized and got chewed up while the crank was rotating.
My symptoms were an almost immediate loss of power, oil temp increasing, and oil warning light came on.