Hello, I have a question related to my 2002 Fogarty S4-- with the 916 engine (which I love!). I'll preface my comments with the fact that I'm not very technical.
The starter and battery are producing a good turn. Battery is about a year old. When I start it (with the choke open), the bike seems to only start with me "goosing" the throttle. I then have to lightly apply the throttle for a little bit while the bike warms up. when I let it go, it may idle too low (which sounds great, but it chokes out). Can somebody please guide me as to how I can adjust the idle up a bit?
Once the bike is warmed up, it starts, runs, idles very well. It starts easily with no choke applied and idles well (just below 1,000 RPM).
when starting cold, it seems to idle in the 800 range, which seems to be too low.
Appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences. The bike is well maintained and cared-for. I had a full checkup--belts, fluids, etc. all in great shape. As to fuel, I run 93 octane, but sometimes get 100 race fuel as the mechanic said I was running rich. (I don't know what that means).
Thank you-- Charlie
Stop with the high test...it won't help and might be hurting your cold engine performance. Your 916 is a relatively low compression motor and should run fine on 87 octane, assuming you are in the US and using R+M/2 octane numbers.
When you say it idles low on a cold start with the choke 'open', it's not a choke it's a fast idle lever, does that mean you're not using the fast idle lever?
it must be the fast idle lever--(wouldn't this be the same as choke-- allowing more gas to flow?)--it is the lever on the left handlebar. So yes, I do use this lever when I start it. It still will not "catch" and stay started. It seems to bog low and quits. keeping the lever "off" has the same result. I realize "goosing" the throttle is not what I should be doing..until the engine is properly warmed up~
Again...it isn't a choke. It doesn't affect the flow of fuel. It affects the position of the throttle plates in the throttle bodies. Check the operation of the lever. You should be able to raise the idle with it...and seriously...lose the high test. It has additives to slow the burning and will only carbon up your motor.
One more question, do you pull the fast idle "BEFORE you key ON?" or AFTER you key ON?
Quote from: ducpainter on October 23, 2015, 09:08:27 AM
Again...it isn't a choke. It doesn't affect the flow of fuel. It affects the position of the throttle plates in the throttle bodies. Check the operation of the lever. You should be able to raise the idle with it...and seriously...lose the high test. It has additives to slow the burning and will only carbon up your motor.
Absolutely!
From the owner's manual (which is available at http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do (http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do) ):
Regular ambient temperature(10 to 35° C):
1) Move the ignition key to ON (fig. 20). Make sure both
the green light N and the red light on the
instrument panel come on.
Important
The oil pressure light should go out a few seconds
after the engine has started (page 11).
Warning
The side stand must be fully up (in a horizontal
position) as its safety sensor prevents engine start when
down.
2) Move the fast-idle lever to position (B) (fig. 21.1).
3) Check that the stop switch (1, fig. 21.2) is positioned
to (RUN), then press the starter button (2).
Let the engine start without using the throttle control.
Important
Never operate the starter more than 5 seconds at a
time. If needed, allow 10 seconds before attempting to
restart the engine.
4) Move the fast-idle lever towards its vertical position (A,
fig. 21.1) until obtaining the engine speed:
approx. 1400-1500 rpm.
Important
Do not rev up the engine when it is cold. Allow
some time for oil to reach all points that need lubricating.
5) Then, as the engine warms up, gradually move the
fast-idle lever until bringing it in a vertical position (A).
When fully warm, the engine should hold idling speed
with the fast-idle device fully closed
High ambient temperature (over 35° C):
Follow the same procedure, however, do not use the
fast-idle device.
Cold ambient temperature (below 10° C):
Follow the procedure for “Regular ambient
temperatureâ€, however allow 5 minutes for the engine to
warm up (step 5).
AND USE REGULAR!!
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on October 23, 2015, 01:25:15 PM
One more question, do you pull the fast idle "BEFORE you key ON?" or AFTER you key ON?
It doesn't really matter. The fast idle is a mechanical device not electrical. Just activate it before you crank the starter.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 23, 2015, 01:50:32 PM
It doesn't really matter. The fast idle is a mechanical device not electrical. Just activate it before you crank the starter.
yes I know, but, on the few S4R and lonely S4 we have here, if you pull it before going KEY ON and then take it to resting position, engine dies . . . or stumbles, that's why I asked
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on October 23, 2015, 02:38:29 PM
yes I know, but, on the few S4R and lonely S4 we have here, if you pull it before going KEY ON and then take it to resting position, engine dies . . . or stumbles, that's why I asked
You don't put it to the rest, or off, position until the bike has warmed. It isn't like the fast idle on an old carburated car with an automatic choke.
This is fuel injected with no stepper motor so you need to leave the lever activated. The ecu controls the mixture and you control idle speed.
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on October 23, 2015, 02:38:29 PM
yes I know, but, on the few S4R and lonely S4 we have here, if you pull it before going KEY ON and then take it to resting position, engine dies . . . or stumbles, that's why I asked
i've done this twice on my 620 with similar result. my theory is that when the key is turned on, the ECU records the increased throttle as position zero. so when the throttle goes back to rest position, it will go below standard zero which is why the engine stumbles. i have a doubt about my theory because i assumed the throttle position is only coded/reset using the diag tool.
it would not be difficult to test this theory with guzzidiag, because it shows the TPS value.
S4 idle should be 1100-1200 rpm.
They *can* idle below that, but they're more prone to stalling.
Like when the signal's just turned green, you put it in gear, and open the throttle a bit as you're releasing the clutch.
Puh.... dead.
What's the maintenance history?
Last time valve clearances done?
Throttle bodies synced?
Quote from: bagodoosh on October 26, 2015, 04:27:38 PM
i've done this twice on my 620 with similar result. my theory is that when the key is turned on, the ECU records the increased throttle as position zero. so when the throttle goes back to rest position, it will go below standard zero which is why the engine stumbles. i have a doubt about my theory because i assumed the throttle position is only coded/reset using the diag tool.
it would not be difficult to test this theory with guzzidiag, because it shows the TPS value.
what value does it give you?
Quote from: Speeddog on October 26, 2015, 04:36:03 PM
S4 idle should be 1100-1200 rpm.
They *can* idle below that, but they're more prone to stalling.
Like when the signal's just turned green, you put it in gear, and open the throttle a bit as you're releasing the clutch.
Puh.... dead.
What's the maintenance history?
Last time valve clearances done?
Throttle bodies synced?
those were my follow up questions . ..
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on October 26, 2015, 04:53:26 PM
what value does it give you?
so, my theory is gibberish. ;D the TPS value does not go below
zero.
with guzzidiag i got the following result:
1) throttle-advance (TA) off, ign on; TPS = 2.00
2) TA off, ign on, TA set to 3.70, TA off; TPS = 2.00
3) TA on, ign on, (check TA = 4.40), TA off; TPS = 2.00
so the
zero TPS value continues to be 2.00 degrees regardless of the sequence.
i'll still continue to set the TA after ign on.
Read this (http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati4vthrottleb.html) and measure again, a quick glance and your TPS is off by 0.2° should be 1.8°
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on October 27, 2015, 10:52:51 AM
Read this (http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati4vthrottleb.html) and measure again, a quick glance and your TPS is off by 0.2° should be 1.8°
Bagodoosh said he's got a 620, yes?
If so, then:
http://bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html (http://bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html)
Quote from: Speeddog on October 27, 2015, 11:20:44 AM
Bagodoosh said he's got a 620, yes?
If so, then:
http://bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html (http://bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html)
I was "Hooked on the tittle". . . jajajaja
Sorry and thanks for catching that . . .
Also try to set CO at 4%
Anyone clean the throttle bores? The carbon ring build up closing down the air is rather common to all Duc's...