Ive chopped off all the wires to the gauges and rewired everything.
The eletrical diagram for my S2R1000 indicates that there are 2 wires that supply power to the gauges. This causes the immobilizer to be activated,however I cant get them to actually turn on. i.e. its energized but wont sweep.
What causes the gauges to sweep?
-I already powered the ECU (but theres really no way to tell if the ECU is powered is there?)
-The gauges are grounded to the battery.
-The ECU is grounded to the battery.
-I think port 2 and 3 may have something to do with it, but its difficult to say.
The ECU wakes up the gauges after the key is read by the antenna.
There are two wires for the transponder and they are wired directly to the ECU. ive got that plugged in already with no joy.
It looks like the one of the wire is ground, and the other is the + with the power supplied by the gauges. So ive got the ECU Power directly to the battery with the ground on the side of the ECU.
there is a wire that goes from the ECU to the gauges called KEYLOCK. ill check that wire, maybe i didnt do a good job connecting it.
For the off chance that i fried my ECU, how would i be able to determine that? Could I try to power it on and connect Guzzi Diag to it?
Unfortunately the only accurate diagnosis techniques for a bad ECU is eliminate everything else, then try a known good ECU. Everything hooked up? Main relay energized?
I'm skipping the main relay for now it's wired directly to the battery.
Does anyone know how many volts is required to operate the key fob sensor? I'm only getting 3.4v at output from the Guage. I've got a known good battery with a full charge. The ecu output known as keylock has a full 12v output, which is connected to the Guage. If I don't connect the keylock wire, my fob still has 3.4v so I'm wondering if it's being powered by something else.
Heres how I have my guages wired (once proof of concept works i can deal with the whole relay, fuse and stuff)
(http://s22.postimg.org/am3r3wutt/simple.png)
Direct link http://s22.postimg.org/am3r3wutt/simple.png (http://s22.postimg.org/am3r3wutt/simple.png)
Essentially the concept I have in my head is
-ECU Powered ON always
-Gauge Powered ON always
-Key turns and notifies the ECU that the ignition key has been inserted and the tumbler has energized the main relay
-ECU Sends power to Gauge to power the Key Lock Sensor
-The antenna senses the Keyed Chip and tells the Gauges to light up.
If i did this and powered it incorrectly, Then i might of fried my ECU already. :(
-
From memory the gauges sweep when they have power, regardless of key fob. Your diagram shows no ground connection for the gauges. I assume there is one?
Quote from: suzyj on April 16, 2016, 03:40:40 PM
From memory the gauges sweep when they have power, regardless of key fob. Your diagram shows no ground connection for the gauges. I assume there is one?
He's an engineer...and not electrical...
spell it out for him. ;D
Quote from: suzyj on April 16, 2016, 03:40:40 PM
From memory the gauges sweep when they have power, regardless of key fob. Your diagram shows no ground connection for the gauges. I assume there is one?
i forgot to the draw it in, it is there though!
When I install the wires in this configuration, the amber light blinks normally, and the gauges sweep (not really. mine attempts to sweep but the needles are broken, but i can hear the motor sweeping), but they arent lit up and none of hte buttons work.
Can any of you guys please check the voltage at the output of the antenna ring? I think it should operate on 12 volts however I am only getting 3.4 volts. Whenever you move the key lock power it drops down to 3 volts. I believe the gauges are supposed to output 12 volts. Perhaps the gauges require the ground from the other components or my gauges are damaged.
My gauges have completely shut off while riding before. The motor was still running and the bike would operate without issue but the gauges were off and the immobolizer was blinking.
Another favor perhaps? :) according to suzyj, If you disconnect the power to the Key FOB antenna, and you turn the key to the ON position, the gauges will sweep.
If this is the case, then I am interpreting the wiring diagram incorrectly as I assume the key passing through the magnetic field generated by the antenna is what causes the gauges to wake up.
I guess this is why most people don't bother doing something this annoying and difficult huh? If I ever do a write up on this, I'm guessing this would have a combined project hour in the 100 range.
Anyway, I'm sending my gauges and ECU to ECS and they are going to do some diagnostics on it and unlock my ECU for me so I can ditch the gauges.
This is going to be one sweet ass monster when I'm done, and im probably just going to stare at it because all I do is ride my KTM. [drool]
So you are keeping it and enhancing it! [thumbsup]
Better amend your FS ad.
Lets not get that far yet.....
If the ECU is damaged, im parting her out. Im not spending another 3k in getting an ECU, paying to unlock it, paying to unmate it, and then paying for another dyno tune!!!
But if the ECU is solid and I can ditch the gauges... [evil] can anyone say 60T rear sprocket wheelie machine?
Would a Microtec or Nemisis unit work?
It would, but id have to pay to get it tuned all over again. Im at the point where im deciding if its better to part it out or fix it still. I dont really ride it. Less than 3k miles since i repaired it 3 years ago. But with my herniated disc, i cant ride for a while, hence my tackling of this project. If i swap gauges this thing wll be a breeze to wire up.